HuD 91gt

Well, today was the day I finally got to drive my Z. I was able to get a day permit to drive the vehicle to an inspection facility. I have imported the vehicle from the US (Yes, i'm Canadian Eh). I got them to take a look over the vehicle and give me a heads up on what I need to do to get the vehicle in a passing condition. It was nice to see the car up on the hoist. Overall they were really impressed with how clean the car was underneath which was great to hear. Obviously I took advantage of the day, and stopped for an impromptu photo shoot. I thought a theme of "coming out of the barn" was a good idea. Hope you enjoy the pictures. The list they gave me was…. Rack boots, 4 tires, front brake hoses, strut rod bushings (I'm going to guess these are the TC rod bushings?), struts, fuel vapour hose, power steering belt, broken exhaust stud, wrong battery, a brake light, and license plate light. Overall the drive was great! Unfortunately mostly in Vancouver traffic. A little play in the steering. I was hoping for a little more oomph, but I think the 3 speed automatic really steals some of the power. I'm at a crossroads whether I want to swap in a 5 speed, or keep it all original. The paint job, and redone interior, and rear sway gives makes me hear a little voice on my shoulder telling me to swap it out and go to the dark side. I mean, it is my car and I should enjoy it after all. Anyhow, once again. Enjoy the shots.

The Z is just a warm up until I can afford the e type. Don't hit me guys.

Saw this on another forum. 70/71 datsun 240 Z

On Rockauto, there is a couple condensor's listed as for dual points cars (The automatics). As long as you ordered the primary condenser (Which is the same as the manual transmission confessor), you should be good to go. Check the rating on the condenser to be 100% sure. I'm sure someone on here should be able to help you out. I believe .20-.25 is correct.

So it's not just me with the horrible throttle modulation off of idle? I've only driven my Z around the block, but I swear if it were wet out, the tires would be spinning every time I hit the gas from a stop. Nice job, I may have to look into this!!

After watching "Just SU's" for the first time, your symptoms are describing a leak in the throttle shaft to a T. I'm a novice for sure, but from watching the video that is what he describes exactly.

Well, I think i'm going to go with MOOG universal 1" sway bar mounts. I stripped, etched/primed and painted the bar today. I then test fitted the sway bar end links I had purchased for a 240z replacement part. The bolts themselves are the same length as what was on there, but the bushings are quite a bit thicker and I don't have enough thread to get the nuts on. Anyone see any harm in cutting the middle spacer (Between the bushing caps) and 1/4-1/2 Inch to get a few threads showing?

Wow! Your doing the body work yourself! Great effort, gives me some hope after all!

2 choke cables would definitely make sense. But I am missing one in the cabin, but there is a spot next to my choke(On the centre console) which looks like it could house another(I was always curious what it was for. But besides that, the single choke lever I have does indeed actuate both chokes(He must have put in a linkage from another motor?). After advice from other forum members, I had to clean up that area so the chokes would spring back up. The car ran great. Maybe they are sticking again! I didn't even think of that. Over the next couple days i'll try and check the manifold too. Thanks for the suggestions guys! Also thanks for the valve adjustment link. I also found a video tutorial of a guy doing them on a L20, (maybe L16) so I'm thinking it will be pretty simple by following that. I will update once i'm back home, for now im on the road for the next few days. As for doing the valve adjustment hot or cold. I don't see any harm in doing them up to temperature as the car will idle well enough to get up to temperature. But it all depends how fast I can do the adjustment if it will stay hot. Ha. How quick do you need to accomplish this task?

Vancouver BC. I'm slowly making my way through the tune up procedures. After installing all the ignitions points etc the car was idling very nicely. Unfortunately this seems to have changed as it sat for a week or two and is no longer the case. I'll try a valve adjustment and see where we sit. I just ordered a Haynes manual as the FSM doesn't seem to explain how to do things, but rather how things work. I think the combination of the two should help immensely. Thanks for everyones suggestions.

I should also note to Blue. The car is still not drivable, so I believe a lot of the carbon buildup on the spark plugs is due to extended idling, as the car has not been driving or been run for extended periods of time past idle.

Blue, I agree. The other plugs definitely show a rich mixture, but with the one that is quite a bit more lean, I was concerned before I try and tackle another issue. Yes, the vehicle is still not running properly. Valve adjustment was next on the list, along with tuning the carb. I'll have to pick up a valve cover gasket before I dive in, as it looks like the previous owner used a liquid gasket of some sort. I should probably merge all my topics as I work through all the bugs so people can get the whole picture of what has been done.

We have spark… Hmm

Oops, sorry. I always forget to add the details. 1971 Datsun 240z with SU's. The plug is very grey/white, even though the picture may not show it. The remaining 5 are definitely black. I'll do as you guys suggested, hopefully your right and i'll update soon.

I was just searching online about general advice on this subject from other vehicles, and noticed someone mentioned if water was getting into the cylinder then it could cause this. Recently I noticed a small coolant leak on the back of the head between the block and the head. I guess a compression test is one of the next things to do.

Or, 5 rich… I pulled the plugs today and noticed the cylinder closest to the firewall (6 or 1?), was much more lean the the other obviously over rich(Just black), cylinders. What could cause a single cylinder to be quite a bit more lean then the others? I've recently replaced plugs, wires, points, cap, rotor, 1 of the 2 condensers on my automatic (Can't reach the other without removing the distributor and I don't have a timing light). The plan is to adjust the valves, and then try and adjust the carbs, but I assume I have another issue before I tackle that one.

Changed the oil and it overfilled an 8 liter(quart) pan. Not sure how much was really in there….

Gorgeous. The Roadster was my first true Datsun love, but I found my clean 240z first. A little jealous.

Here it is. I apologize, I can't for the life of my figure out why my photo's get posted upside down. I even try and flip them and it does nothing.