HuD 91gt

^ Thanks for the suggestion. I didn't end up getting paint or POR as I was unsure of a primer. So this info is greatly appreciated. Wire brush is cleaning it up nicely. Although after picking up some callipers today, I realized the thing is 1"!! I think i'll need different bushings too. But where does one get aftermarket bushings for an unknown bar?

Perfect! I couldn't remember what the units were. Thanks again!

Hello, Just swapped out the points, cap, rotor, and 1 of the two condenser's on my 1971 240z. I couldn't unscrew the "automatic" condenser without some clever contraption without taking the distributor off, so for now I just replaced the standard one. Now my question is, I took out what was a Nissan branded condenser and on the side it had a Rating of 0.22somethings (Funny symbol), the one I replaced it with is 0.25somethings. I purchased it off RockAuto and it said it was a OEM replacement so i'm a little concerned that it's not the same. The car fired right up, but it is still not running 100% correctly (Other issues) so I don't know if this is something I should worry about or not. Any one experience this before?

Thanks for the advice. Removed the sway bay today, will pickup a wire wheels and some paint today to tackle this project. Powder coating is not going to be an option this time around.

1971 240z L24 w/E88 head. Stock, SU carbs

Thanks for the picture rotation! Good to know it's possible it could only be a coolant leak. I guess the only real way to check is to do a compression test? Is there any other heads I could swap on here that won't drastically reduce my compression ratio, yet increase performance a little over my E88? I can't seem to find an engine calculator that works for the L24 block. If a HG replacement is required, it would be nice to be able to swap on a useable/straight head right away and have the car on the road again the same day.

Looks like I have a coolant leak between the head and the block, right near the back of the engine, close to the transmission. I'm assuming this is clearly a head gasket? Not having much luck with this car so far. The oil is still clear (Not milky). Edit: Sorry. the photo is upside down, I can't figure out why. It's upright on my computer.

Hello, My Front sway bar end links and bushings arrived, and I thought I might as well try and sand the bar down (I don't have access to a sand blaster) and give it a quick shot of paint. Any suggestions for paint? How much does a sway bar flex, will I need a special flexible paint?

Where did you get your brake booster vacuum hose? Is it a cheaper alternative to the reproduction model at the theZstore?

For some reason I thought the brake booster was vented to the valve cover, which really made me wonder why this leaking would do anything to the carb. It all makes much more sense now. So, I was right. I was clearly misunderstanding something. ha

Ok, so blocking the booster line will simulate a working brake booster. I can understand that. I assume all the other hose attached to the air cleaner assembly (Float bowl vent, Air injection system, crankcase vents) don't matter? Thanks for the reply! EDIT: Thanks Mark. So the only real vacuum system is the brake booster. All makes much more sense. What would I do without this forum

After searching, every carb tuning guide tells you how there should be no vacuum leaks in the system (1971' 240z). it also states to do with this the air cleaner assembly disconnected. Now I may be missing some very large step here… But with the aircleaner assembly off, aren't all your vacuum hoses disconnected (Meaning HUGE leak), minus the brake booster hose? Clearly i'm misunderstanding something. The reason I ask. I finally got my carb cleaned out, and now idles at a high(With air cleaner assembly off), but smooth 1100-1200 RPM. I then start researching how to reduce the idle, and came across people with brake booster issues causing a bad idle etc. I believe I have booster issues as well, and I am just trying to correlate all my issues before I go and start tinkering more.

Just want to thank you guys for the help. Today I got to do a little more work on the car. When I cleaned off the nozzle last time I didn't lube it afterwards. So once again they were sticking. So I cleaned them with carb cleaner, then lubed the nozzle with some light oil. I also sprayed some lithium grease onto the linkages. After that, I disconnected the fuel hose from the float housing and the nozzle. Sprayed carb cleaner up the nozzle, and into the housing. I also flushed out the lines between the fuel pump and the carbs. Fired her up, and after a couple little backfires i'm assuming from residual carb cleaner she idled (And revved) like a champ! Next on the list is the brakes. When the brake booster is operated properly, do these brakes feel like a modern car? They are firm, but I am certainly not getting the aggressiveness(Requires much more pressure) I have in my 3 series.

Wow. Topped up the damper now, and I got throttle response once again! Decided to pull the plugs, clean them up a bit and see if that helped things at all. Nothing. So I decided to put new plugs in, and noticed one of the plug wires was a little loose on the end of the plug. Crimped it a little tighter and now it's finally firing on all cylinder! But she is a smokey one. Wow. Tomorrow i'll get her out in the alley and let it warm up. Hopefully it will clear up after it gets running for a while!

http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/su-carb-technical-articles/29630-nice-link-su-function.html Doing more research on these carbs. I'm curious if my maybe foolish act of blocking the intake, caused the dashpot dampening oil to be sucked through into the engine. Maybe that is the reason I have no throttle response. I tried check the oil, but I find it very difficult to see the level. Why isn't it dirty like motor oil

Drained the tank, put a couple gallons of fresh fuel in and it wasn't running any better. So, I was reading online about a method of revving the engine up slightly, then blocking the intake with your hand. The vacuum created could possibly dislodged some of the blockages. Not sure if this was smart or not, but the engine will not not rev up at all anymore in gear. Either A, this created a leak somewhere between the head and the carb (I hear a hissing noise, but I'm don't recall if this was there before or not). Or B, I clogged it up even more. The plan was to get the car out onto the street and do an oil change and do some brake work, but it now doesn't even have any power to get out of the underground garage. I can't accelerate at all when in gear. The throttle does nothing. Looks like carb disassembly may be my only option. Also, this is for Bruce. I'm interested in purchasing the Ztherapy DVD, as I am pretty lost when staring at these things. If I do purchase the DVD, and at a later time decide to purchase the rebuild kit, is it possible to purchase it without the DVD? Or should I just go and buy the kit from the get go.

Well, I went downstairs like a ninja and did a little bit of fiddling. I did as suggested and used carb cleaner on the choke/nozzle assembly. Let it dry off while I successfully managed to get to that adjuster wheel on the rear drum. Successfully got the rear drum off finally!!! I was happy to see the wheel now turned freely, as it was just the shoe rubbing up against the drum. That's a relief. Started the car up, and it started fairly quickly. Put in the choke (Off), and it idled. I was amazed! Mind you, the original problem still exists. Barely runs, won't rev etc. I tried to rev it up a little, and once back at idle, it died. But we are definitely headed in the right direction! Next step is to get that old/new fuel (A new gallon of premium was added to the little bit of old stuff that was left) out of there, and see where we sit. As for Blue, yup i'm in Vancouver Canada!

^Thanks for the tip. I will try and wrangle up an extra hand and give this a shot. For now, back to the service manual and have a look for what i'm looking for. Cheers

Thanks for the advice. The SU's are still there. Along with my carb issues, I also have typing issues. Can I do all of this without touching any idle screws etc, and all that will be required is setting the float height? Please ignore my "Carb" ignorance, besides some light fiddling with a motorcycle, this is my first experience with carbs. Once I get the vehicle to a proper garage, my father is a retired mechanic, and can easily help me from there.

Hey guys, My 1971 Datsun 240z project has been sidelined right off the bat. Long story short, i'm not allowed to work on the vehicle in my underground anymore. The issue, the car was sitting 6 years. Idles like… like… a poor running Datsun. With the choke out, it runs…. Well it runs. Extremely rich. With the choke in, I swear it runs on a single cylinder. Anyhow, my simple question is. Is there anyhow I can take this carb out(Or by leaving it in), and clean it without disassembly? What I need to do, is just get the vehicle running enough so I can drive it onto a ferry and into a family members garage to get some actual maintenance and a real rebuild. The issue I see with disassembly, is the vehicle is going to be needing some adjustments, which I really can't do in my current location. A trailer/truck/ferry ride is going to cost me a fortune, so if I can get this thing drivable in the meantime, i'd be way ahead. Any advice would be greatly appreciated. In the mean time, i'm going to drain the tank, and try cleaning on the lines, like a burglar in the night.

I thought I remembered reading somewhere that the body panel paint had metallic bits in it, and the engine bay/door jams were just a flat orange (To save money). I could be mistaken, as I've been researching a pile of old British vehicles while in search of a new project. Either way, i'm still confused why they painted the jams black, as it is close enough in my mind. At least it still looks decent. But is far from perfect. A good 10'er. Once I get it home, I need to deal with the rear left seized brake/hub. I assume it's probably just the brake. Sway bar end links definitely need replacing, new rad hoses and coolant flush. Oil/Trans/Diff fluid change and then I need to get the thing running properly. My first run in with Carbs (I think I just revealed my age ), so that could be fun. Once that is done, I'll try and get it inspected, and see where I sit. I'm sure there is more to be done. Looking forward to it! I'll get some more pictures once it's in it's new home!

Hello Everyone! I just pulled the trigger on a 1971 240z last week. I live in Vancouver myself, and will be trailering it up over the border tomorrow (Washington vehicle). This is my first Z, and my first classic. I'm extremely excited, and a little overwhelmed. Hopefully with the vast knowledge on here, i'll be able to get this thing on the road sooner then later. First i'll start out with it's story. It is a 1971 240z Automatic in Orange (918?). It is basically a one owner vehicle. Originally a California car, the original owner passed away, and it went over to his son in Seattle (about 1999) who stored it for many years. He then sold it to a family friend who also stored it for 6 (Never registered). It was driven a couple times a year in that period of time. First I was thrown off by the fact that it was an automatic, but I decided to check it out anyhow. I am amazed that everything is there from the original manual signed by the dealer, down to the spare tire with all hardware. Obviously it's been sitting for many years, it's going to need some love before I can get it to pass a safety here in Canada, but as far as I can see the body is extremely clean. Rubber bit's aside, I think it's a great car. I'm not very educated on these vehicles yet, but I hope I found a good one. I'll post some pictures the previous owner sent me, as I will have to take my own once the vehicle is in my possession tomorrow. Maybe you guys can point me in the right direction as to what is stock, and what has been modified. -It has been repainted. I read somewhere that the body on the old Datsun's were metallic, but the doors jams and engine bay were not. Now the body is a slightly different colour then the engine bay, I'm going to assume it's not the stock colour, but is close enough for me. I still question why the door jams were painted black though. -The interior was restored at some point, and either recovered, or different seats used. Any ideas? -Slot Mag wheels -Aftermarket Tape player I'm really undecided on what I want to do to this vehicle. A lot of purist's will say keep it stock, but with the aftermarket paint and interior I feel I can get a little more free on what I can do. I'd love to get a 5 speed in there one day, as I did my first auto x recently and had a blast. A few track days would be great too. Anyhow, enjoy the pictures!