HuD 91gt

Well it's just new to me Tacoma actually.

Gorgeous looking bikes! I should have stopped by on my way through Seattle two days ago picking up my new engine!

Unfortunate to hear. But if it makes you feel any better, your tough lesson learned is a lesson learned for anyone reading this. Hopefully saving a few of us from some harder time. Cheers, and thanks.

Thanks for the confirmation guys. I think I will do the E12-80 swap on my L24 first and get it set up properly, then swap the new motor/ignition in the future. There are so many variables that are completely new to me, and I can see myself screwing something up and getting completely frustrated if I do it all at once.

Picked up my new motor yesterday. It is missing the ZX distributor as well as the oil pump drive shaft. Does anyone know if could I use the drive shaft from my current L24 motor? If so, will it only work with my L24 distributor? I've taken a quick look at the FSM, but I don't quite understand how it is all connected without seeing it in person.

Which cam are you referring to Madkow? Edit: Looking at the post time, I think you must be referring to the Colt cam. So yes, i'm beginning to realize that. The Z specialities cams may be a better option. The .480 lift with stock springs still goes against what i've been reading though. The reason I am looking at such aggressive grinds, is the history of people having detonation issues with the N42/N47 head and flat top pistons. I may be reading all the horror stories, and missing the positive ones. I'd rather error on the side of caution then go too mild and still get pinging. I think a more mild cam would be more suitable (Stage 2) for the vehicle, as it is mostly a street driven weekend car, but it will see some auto-x and track days. Although nothing competitive, merely fun.

Thanks for the replies. The Colt cams specs seem very tantalizing, but as you guys have mentioned there could be a lot of expense to go along with it. Thanks for the mention of clearance issues, i'll have to look into it. Colt cams also offered me a T shirt because of my name (Colten), I think that is hilarious. I've emailed them back and inquired about valve springs etc on what they think may also be required. I've read many old threads that Delta cams offers that service. Glad to see they are still doing it as it seems it is the most cost effective solution. My other option is the Z specialties cam, either stage 2, or 3. Both have a lift of .480, but they say stock valve springs can be used as long as the engine is not revved past 6500. Any comments on this? I should give them a call and see what they suggest for me. These options look like they would be much more cost effective.

I emailed Colt Cams, and they replied in suggesting I should be pretty happy with this cam. Anyone have any thoughts? The thing that makes this stand out from other companies is the large lift of .510. What effect will this have? C.542.S. INT. 224° 280° .340 .510 108 PERFORMANCE $185.00 CAN / US EXH. 224° 280° .340 .510 Best all around Cam 3000-6500+

It's good this thread got sidetracked. I ended up avoiding the L28et and put money down on a F54/N47 combo recently refreshed but never run. Now I need to figure out what cam I should run. Researching it sounds like I want something in the 280-290 range in duration to reduce some of the detonation which may be caused from the 10:5-1 compression. But at the same time from what I see, all the cams with this spec have a high power curve, probably not too well paired with SU's and a stock exhaust manifold (maybe the exhaust liners too?). I'm still not very knowledgeable on cam specs, but what can the stock valve springs handle? I've read that 460 lift is about the max you should go? A local company (colt cams) here in Canada will do a regrind and I'd love to support them. I would have to get my hands on new lash pads correct?

No problem. Already heard what I need to hear I think

I don't believe the ECU will come with the motor, but as I said before i'll most likely be doing a complete Megasquirt install eventually, I just can't dive into that project now. I need to drive this thing this summer, and I know how these projects can go on and on. I've never fumbled around with a bare L28 before, but I think i've read, complete they are somewhere in the 500lb range!!??!! Tough to hide in the living room, but disassembled may be an option. Doing some mild work on the motor prior to installation does seem like the better option as it's condition is relatively unknown. Siteunseen, i'll have to check out the head once ahead, I completely forgot about the hydraulic lifters!

Hello all, I'm looking for info if anyone has ever run an P90 head on a dished piston L28 block (Yes, a L28et without the turbo). If you care for the details you can read the rambling story below. Maybe a bit of a silly question, but some of you may have some quality input. I've stumbled across a L28et engine in my area for a great deal. I have been searching for a while, and i've had two ideas in my head which both involve said engine. Either A, do the turbo engine swap, or B, get some flattop pistons, shave and shim the head and run a higher compression N/A engine. Both have their complications and their costs but for now I am looking on a temporary solution. I have a 1971 240z with an E31/L24 combo. It runs fine, but storage is my top issue at this time (I live in a condo, and rent a garage to work on my Z, but I have no room to store a spare engine). If I purchase this engine, I need to do something with it. NOW! So, i'm thinking I may drop it in, put on my stock SU's and an electric fuel pump and I should be ok for the time being. With such a low compression, is this going to be an absolute dog, or perhaps perform similarly to my smaller L24 (Although different characteristics of course)? Has anyone experienced this combo? I plan to do execute Part II of the engine work (Headwork and or turbo/megasquirt) over next winter.

Glad to hear to you spoke to him and got it resolved. I'd still be pretty disappointed with the lack of communication especially with the block swap. But envious of those number for sure. Is this one of his "hot street" builds? Looks like it's going to be a wild ride!

Hello, Just looking for some info on the manifold adapter MSA uses for their exhaust. I've talked to them on the phone and they will sell it to me separately for $60, which I thought was very reasonable. I plan to get a custom exhaust (2.5") made here locally. Unfortunately after shipping, our recent crappy Canadian exchange this unit will probably be $100 to my door and I'm questioning trying to get a shop to make one locally but that will still probably be more. Inout on the quality of this thing?

I bought the Stagg struts to get through an inspection. I like them so far! I believe I have some sort of aftermarket spring, as the suspension is very stiff, but much more compliant then the old hardware that was in there before.

Wow. I would be demanding an explanation for the mismatched numbers. That is rediculous.

I purchased these recently to go along with my Champion 3 core aluminum rad. Seem to fit fine, although I'm not too impressed with the amount of air they pull. They keep it cool now, but I'm curious about the summer. Curious about how long they will last too! http://www.amazon.com/Performance-Electric-Radiator-Cooling-Assembly/dp/B00H29LGI2/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1418247866&sr=8-1&keywords=10%22+cooling+fans

Look great! what was your process like?

Since the 4 speed has been installed, the car has certainly seen it's fair share of revs. Doing a valve adjust this afternoon, check the timing and maybe I'll pick up a little sea foam and see if I can feed it into the combustion chamber some how to clean out a little carbon.

Thanks guys! I'm up and running! Now I have a rear end clunk! Always something new to fix. Ha Also seem to have a dieseling issue now. I have a single points distributor on hand and trying to figure out what I should do. Is the dieseling from incorrect timing (checked the points this morning, set correctly with about 400km on them. Possible they've been burnt up? How can you tell?). Or it is from the recent thermostat change to 180f and a higher operating temp is causing it. Oh the joys of it all.

I just had a thought.... It went over top of the tranny didn't it?

Hello all, Just finishing up the final touches on my auto to 4 speed swap on my 1971 240z. Top up the fluids and hook the speedometer cable back up and I should be back on the road. The issue is I don't remember how the cable was originally routed? Anyone have any underbody pictures? There is a bracket on the cable which looks like it may have attached to the dust over on the torque converter bell housing, but it would come awfully close to the exhaust manifold down pipe. I'd say within 3 inches. This worries me. Help would be appreciated so I can start this thing up in the morning!

And Zed Head, your right. I knew what I wanted in my head. Ha. I want to bypass the warmer temperature set... plan B looks like a better idea though!

ZKars. Something so simple yet I never even thought of that. The idea of having a spare set of points for backup did enter my mind! Great idea. If the two sets are basically the same thing, but one is just manually set more advanced, any idea why there is different condenser part numbers for each, with what I assume different ratings?

Hello everyone, I'm still trying to figure out why I have a lack of power from idle(to 1400rpm or so). After digging into the manual a little further, i've found that my automatic drops the timing down to 0 when temperature is higher, and in cold climates it bumps it up to 10 degrees (Where idle on a manual car is). It says it does this for emmisions. I'm looking to bypass the 0 degree set of points, and only use the "advanced" set. If I bridge the temperature switch, will this not make the car "feel" like it is below 0c degrees (32f) in all conditions? My electrical wiring diagram knowledge is apparently not that great.