HuD 91gt

Well, upon closer inspection I don't think it is coming from the rack at all. There is a little bit of play, which I believe is coming from the upper U joint on the steering column. This is causing the little amount of play at the steering wheel. There is also something else loose when I rock the tires back and forth while holding them in the 3 and 9 o'clock positions. It is worse on the drivers side. I don't think it is the balljoint as it only happens in the 9 and 3 positions. Could the front wheel bearings be worn out? Although very minimal, there is a noise which comes with the movement and it does sound like it is coming from the hub area. Either way, it is fairly minimal and I am going for my provincial inspection tomorrow. I knocked everything off their "to-do" list, so hopefully they might let it slide. Wish me luck!

Thanks. I've read that thread a couple times over. So much good information I still missed some good stuff. I'm going to get under the car shortly and see if I can feel where the play is coming from.

The only thing I can come up with is from this forum, where people used RHT 280zx Inners, with I suppose 2 RHT outers? 240Z Inner Tie Rod / Rack end - Sourcing?

I replaced the outer tie rods. I had the understanding the inners were no longer available? I'll take a closer look and see if I can get a better understanding of what is moving. This would be a lot easier with two people. I never thought about the U-Joints. The only thing that makes me think it is in the rack portion itself is you can definitely feel it when you grab the tire at 9 and 3, and give it a shake. It has a little play/clunking noise before any movement happens. I don't think the U joint would do this, but I will certainly check it out anyhow. Thanks for the tips. I should also say, the play is felt in the steering wheel as well.

After about 3 months, I finally tossed the wheels back on the Z (1971 240z). I am in the process of getting the vehicle ready to pass an out of province inspection. When I initially brought it in, they said I needed a new steering rack. Clearly not very easy to come across(New). I've since, dissembled the rack, tightened the bushings (large screw thing in the middle of the lock nut). Replaced rack bushings, new steering coupler, and tie rod ends. Today was the first time I was able to give the steering a turn. There is noticeable amount of play within the rack that I never noticed before. Perhaps its the more stiff poly bushings which make it more pronounced. But despite my effort, I have a feeling they won't let this pass. Is it possible to get rid of this play? I've searched for rack replacements, but it doesn't look like much is available.

Thanks for the info. I searched that topic before, and that is exactly how I installed them myself. Still awaiting a reply from STAGG.Jarring is the word i'd use for the ride i'm feeling. The vehicle still seems to sit at stock height, or near stock height.

I can say i'm pretty use to firm rides. My BMW is quite stiff, yet still comfortable. The harsh ride could be from a combination of the Z's springs, and what were blown struts. My previous car had cut springs, and rode like an army tank. The Z is worse. Anyhow, I got underneath again today, and the springs are a multitude of colours, from an overspray during repaint. But the original looks to be gold. They may be aftermarket. The Z did have an upgraded front sway, and a rear sway so previous owners have fiddled. It is possible they swapped out the springs too. I have stock sized tires with 14" rims, so it's not coming from that.

Took it back apart, and looked inside the wheel cylinder. A piece of the first flare which fell apart the first time around was sitting in there. My system now seems to be leak free! Bled the master cylinder and rear brakes and we now have a firm pedal once again!

It's a '71 240z. The springs are not red, but super dirty and greasy. There is enough slack that the spring will easily fall out of it's perch if the wheel were to lose contact with the ground. I don't really have much to compare to as I have only driven the vehicle once, and all the struts were completely blown. But it was significantly more harsh then my Daily driver BMW on Bilstein adjustable coil overs.

The boxes were numbered correctly. I have since emailed Stagg directly and I am checking to see if he had come across this issue before. I find it interesting that I required a spacer when you did not. If I remember correctly, the rear struts were longer then the fronts.

Hello all. I pulled the pin and ordered up a set of Stagg struts to get my car on the road, as I believe they will only be temporary before I decide what i'm going to do with the suspension. The rears went in first, and were without drama (More or less). The front's is where it got interesting. Upon install, the front cartridge was not long enough for the gland nut to tighten down on it. From reading other posts, I remembered people talking about Tokico struts requiring a spacer. I wasn't sure how people did this, so I actually just found a 1/2" locking nut, which fit snugly to the bottom of the strut, and gave the strut that 1/4" of extra height required for the gland nut to tighten down on it. Problem solved! Once installed, it seems the Stagg strut rod is actually longer then what was in previously. As, with the car still on jacks, the control arms hangs low enough where the spring will not reach the top seat (Think, no spring compressor required for disassembly). I don't believe different springs are in the car, but it is possible as I found the ride to be quite stiff. Has anyone run into this problem? I'm concerned the vehicle will not pass the vehicle safety which is required to get it on the road if they notice this. Another thought I has is that the spacers people are using are on the top of the strut, not on the bottom like I did. But at the same time, an extra 1/4-1/2" wouldn't be enough to take out the slack.

Thanks for the suggestions. Tomorrow i'll pull it apart and see if I can see anything abnormal in the threads/or abnormalities/dirt in the wheel cylinder. Good thing is the local hardware store has tap and dye sets on sale on Thursday My tool collection is getting pretty big with this car.

Hi guys, I attempted to make my own brake lines over the last two days and I thought it went pretty well. I used Fedhill copper/alloy lines, and their appropriate fittings. Using the newly purchased Eastwood flaring tool it was a breeze. I noticed on the left rear wheel cylinder, when tightening the line it had quite a bit more friction then the practically finger tightening method I was using on the others. It also kept screwing in farther and farther. Which comes to today, I bled the entire system. By the end of it I had a very firm pedal and was very pleased until I noticed that one particular fitting had a slight leak. Tried tightening it but had no luck. I decided to redo the line. As I unscrewed the fitting, I noticed that the flare had basically unravelled itself, and it was now a piece of straight copper again. I thought that may have been my issue, a faulty flare. Put in the new line, and it still leaks, although this time it was much easier to screw in. I also have no pedal feel at all. It goes flat to the floor. Could I have buggered up the wheel cylinder? Is it possible to tap a new thread? Possible damage from over tightening maybe? Anyone experienced something like this?

Datsun L6 Dohc Cylinder Head 240Z 260Z 280Z L24 L26 L28 Fairlady Z Nissan | eBay Might interest someone out there.

Those summit ones look correct! The previous ones posted were bubble flare, where as stock is a double flare. Thanks for the help, maybe I'll look into that fed hill line as well.

Bump this up to the top. I just ordered the eastwood tool, and have some brake line waiting in my shopping cart. Which fittings do I need to go with it? I'm reading 10mm x 1 inverted flare, but i'm still lost. Can anyone point it out for me? JEGS Brake Line Fitting Adapters - Free Shipping on All Orders @ JEGS

Thanks for the help guys. I was out of town, and I think I lost a night of sleep because of this. haha. But those are definitely the spacers. Lowering springs are probably in the plans in the near future anyhow, so I can swap them out next time. Phew.

Looks like I completely missed the part. When I disassembled, the seat and the insulator come out as one piece, and looked to be in decent shape (I assumed they were one piece). The question is whether or not I should go it over again.

One last questions guys, as I think I screwed up. On purchasing my 240z, I researched and ordered boxes of parts. There were two poly spacer looking things sitting in said boxes that I had no idea what they were. Well after doing my rear strut replacement, I took a at my online order, and it looks like they are rear upper struts spacers. Where were these things supposed to go? I simply took out the old strut, replaced with the new struts. There was a ton of broken down rubber in the assembly which I assumed was from the missing bump stop (which I also replaced). I searched all my manuals and none of them lost this rear upper strut spacer. Any help?

I wish I had this advise last week. I've since sounded off practically every brake line in the system. Now in for a much larger job then expected. But luck has it, an 18" pipe wrench finished the job today after a night soaked in my concoction of chemicals. Fronts are next.

They've been soaking in that concoction all night

Spent 4 hours today, and managed to get one replaced, and the other down to the gland nut on the strut insert. These things are on there. Time to head to the tool store to pickup the largest pipe wrench a man can by. I applied heat and penetrating oil over and over. Not budging. The first one took 30 minutes to loosen. I spent over an hour on the second and nothing.

The Spindle Pins were my issue. Although, they do move side to side with a light tapping of a mallet, I can't seem to get the bolt (Sorry I forget the name) which is underneath, in the centre of said transverse link pin to budge. The manual doesn't explain it well (Does it get removed from the top? Tapered fit?), and I don't want to start hammering (The nut is removed). I'll give this way a go, it seems pretty simple. Also Carl, thanks for the advice on loosening the top nut. Without an impact wrench, I would have been stuck without you reminding me. I did that on my last strut removal 10 years ago. Apparently I didn't learn my lesson.

Thanks for making this thread. I had the same question, and was curious if I had to put in the zirk fitting. (It was in the baggy with the cotter pin, and castelated nut.