HuD 91gt
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Everything posted by HuD 91gt
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Hello all, I attempted the rear strut replacement this afternoon on my 1971 240z. After failing, and doing a search doing it the way the manual says to do it is a joke. Then there is the Atlantic Z way of doing it (Disconnect the opposite side of the transverse link), which I was going to attempt to do before I saw this little video. Fast forward to 1:50 to see what I am talking about. From what I can tell, I would only have to disconnect brake lines, disconnect driveshafts at the hub, the three bolts on the top of the strut and it should all drop down, and swing out? Is this correct?
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Good to hear you got it worked out. The longer bolt unfortunately wouldn't even work, pending they are the ones similar to what was supplied with my kit (Only the top 1.5 inches or so were threaded). I tried picking up an inch longer bolt, and once you compressed the bushings, you ran out of threads on the bolt and couldn't tighten them enough. The only way is to compress them a bit somehow like you did.
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I had the same issue, but I attributed it to a thicker aftermarket bar. I couldn't screw the nut on, without the control arm even in the equation. I ended up going for the moog easy install bushings for about $6 from rock auto. The top bolt is actually a thread cap which screws down into the the bushing sleeve (onto the bolt obviously). If you were very close, I'd suggest pre squishing the bushing by just threading the nut on, and compressing them, but an inch is a lot.
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Wow, Thanks taking the time to make the diagram! Should make that a sticky topic. I'm sure it will definitely help someone in the future. I ended up running out last night and picking up a ball joint separator. I managed to get them off, but I still can't believe the amount of force it took. Then it was a gun shot when they released. I analyzed the mushrooming before hand to see if it had expanded enough to effect movement. I didn't think I damaged it that much. Once it went, it bloody well exploded apart. Both sides. Wow.
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The end is definitely mushroomed, I don't think that end has made it that far yet to make an impact but who knows. I will grind away at it to be cautious. This is exactly the advice i'm looking for guys, thanks. I don't want to cause any damage.
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I'll take a look for a puller tomorrow. olzed, Sorry i'm not quite understanding what you mean. Put the piece of steel on the horizontal piece of the tie rod (same piece which the threaded adjuster threads into), and hammer the other side of this rod in a vertical/up down motion to force the tapered piece out?
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What did you do to paint the wheels black? They were silver previously
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I should be clear, looking at the new tie rod end, I seem to have gotten the old one loose enough where I think it should be clear of the tapered fit. I'm just curious as to what is holding it up now.
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Hey Guys, Trying to go through my steering and replace most of the related bushings. I'm having troubles getting the tie rod ends removed from the steering arm/strut assembly. So far i've removed the cotter pin, and the castle nut and started hammering. I tap it with a hammer a little on the threaded portion (I do have new tie rod ends so not afraid of damaging these ones), I did get them to move a little, but i'm not sure where to go from here. The manuals are of no help to me, so the forum is my answer. Can I hit it harder? Should the rack be loosened from it's mounting before I do this? I don't want to damage anything obviously and i'm lost.
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Wow, Looks great. Mind listing a little more detail on the polishing job?
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Interesting note on the vacuum advance diaphragms. Is that why my car has no power? haha. Since I started this post, i've got the car running fairly well, although I'm still going to do a carb rebuilt. I've also collected most for he parts to get her back into great street able condition. So far it's been fun, and i've learned a ton!
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The VIN is HLS30-41814. Not sure on the build date though.
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Not a TVR? EDIT: nevermind.
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There's a reason I haven't purchased a timing light yet!! What is the difference between a USDM, and Euro/JDM type distributor?
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From the album: 1971 Datsun 240z
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From the album: 1971 Datsun 240z
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From the album: 1971 Datsun 240z
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From the album: 1971 Datsun 240z
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Haha. I figure i'd be in over a Petronix. What to do, what to do. Why are you selling? I'm curious of the consequences of switching from a dual points, automatic distributor. Anyhow, were off topic.
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Typo indeed. It's funny, I saw the ad and thought 1,200 was a good deal pending you were good at bodywork. I'm laughing at 12. ha
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Amazon.com: Cardone 31-619 Remanufactured Import Distributor: Automotive Is this the one your talking about? I'd assume i'd still need the mounting base from a 280zx.
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Has anyone done a comparison between poly and new rubber for the rack? I'm curious of the difference. This makes me want to go Poly. It's from a source selling a poly kit "This kit includes a left and right urethane bushing set which is enough to do one car. The rack can move back and forth in all z's with stock rack bushings." I found a link with some rubber rack bushings recently, but now i've lost it. Time to search again!
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Silly question, but I assume yours is stock height? I'd say ours look pretty similar.
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Thanks for the advice Blue. Any other's you'd recommend that won't make the ride too harsh? For the experienced eye, does this vehicle look like it's the stock height? I find the ride quite stiff, a little more jarring then my BMW 325i with Bilstein adjustable coil over suspension in my daily driver. Since I've found upgraded sway bars, I can only assume some of the other bits and pieces have been tinkered with in the past.
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It is the paint. I had wished it was a decal at first, but i'm beginning to like it. That's funny, I didn't even think twice when he told me power steering belt. Ha. I've got two in there, one must be for the air conditioning as well. I'll make sure to order a full set of stainless brake hoses, they were on the list anyway. I should also go for new pads. The backs seem to lock up first. They are either just old, or the callipers aren't working correctly. The T/C bushing upgrade is already on it's way I've searched high and low, but which bushings are the ones to keep rubber? I'm thinking steering rack bushing are probably best to stay stock. Any other suggestions? Thanks for the kind words!
