HuD 91gt

Ah, ok. I didn't realize the oil pressure switch was a "three way" switch. The diagram didn't make sense at first, but i've got it now. Thanks for the write-up. Do you know if all late model 240's had that unused wiring in the harness?

Will using the oil pressure switch cause the engine to crank a few more times (To build pressure) before it starts? Or will the fuel in the fuel bowls take care of that? I'm just curious as every car i've dealt with, as soon as you turn on the ignition you can hear the fuel pump run right away. Look's like I have to do this conversion as my N47 head does not have a mechanical pump cutout.

Marty, thanks so much for the extra pictures. I have a fabricator lined up who would really appreciate them I'm sure! I've heard the 5mph bumper on the 280z is very strong, but was kind of curious about the mounts on the 240z. I've had a bad situation pulling a trailer where the supposedly 2000lbs hitch on my 3 series BMW, mounted to the unibody spare tire well started to rip out at the rated load. From what i've seen, your design is the best, and easily modified to uninstall a portion of it for when not pulling the auto x trailer. I picked up my trailer yesterday, now I just need the hitch Do you remember who you sold it too? I wouldn't mind trying to buy it. Cheers!

John, that reply made me laugh. Paranoid? Probably. Inexperienced? Oh yes. Know enough to be dangerous? Absolutely. Rossiz/Beermanpete, you make a valid points. It's on the stand. Here comes the inexperience part again. Reringing a block would have to be done with the head off correct (Can't do it from below?). Should have purchased the rebuild book at the same time as the modify one. I bought the engine knowing very little and was prepared to throw it in and see. What is the worst thing that could happen? Spend another day putting the other one in again?

Zed Head, thats not what i wanted to hear. But the truth hurts. haha. Also, you talk about the rings not sealing. The block was not rebuilt, it has a claimed 30,000miles, they should seal, no? This was direct from his email. "I also ported the intake runners, lapped all valves, checked the valves for straightness, checked the valve guides for excessive wear, and replaced the seals." The block is the true unknown. He said he ran it prior to redoing the head. He was told it had that mileage although he could not confirm. From the sludge I found in the oil pan I find 30,000 pretty hard to believe. Perhaps 300,000. Although going through his emails again he said he did a compression test prior to the rebuild and it had even compression across the board.

Here's a video of me turning the engine.

Valves adjusted(They were pretty close), leak down tester rental search begins. I'm thinking a car tire compressed to 60psi or so should work instead of a compressor. Thoughts?

Just went out to grab my tools for a valve adjust, and forgot the feeler gauges. Doh! Apartment living

Can I do leak down test with a portable air tank, or maybe even a large bicycle pump. I don't have a compressor in my living room. Maybe I can rent a portable compressor. I also have one of those tiny air compressors but I doubt that would work? I am turning the engine with a 18" breaker bar on the crank. To get it to compress, and feel some exhuast from the manifold I turn the crank 360 degrees twice, in 6-8 seconds.

Out of place?

Hello everyone. Sorry for the newbie questions. I now have my recently purchased L28 F54 block with flat top pistons combined with N47 head in my living room. Ready to look over and hoping to install this summer. The head was apparently rebuilt, onto a block with about 30,000 miles. It had never been run. I bought a very unknown condition engine. I've taken the valve cover over and the head was certainly dissembled/cleaned, and after going through my "How to Modify your Datsun... book" I am reasonably certain that it will run without grenading completely.. What i'm concerned about is the block. I took off the oil pan because it needed to be painted. Since my current L24 oil pan leaks like my kitchen sink, I also planned on straightening this pan and getting a good seal with a new gasket. What i've noticed and what is concerning me is the fact that when I turn the engine by hand I hear some fairly drastic air leakage around the rings. So much that I don't even get a "pump" of air out the exhaust unless I crank the engine quickly. I put some light oil in the chambers (I didn't have engine oil in my living room), and it may have helped a bit. Is there anyway I can check the condition of the rings without mounting this to a starter and doing a compression test? Is that much leakage around the rings normal? They can't possibly seal completely so i'm sure some leakage normal but this seems excessive. Obviously a true compression test the engine should be an operating temperature but there must be some way of testing without installing the engine in the car. When I turn the engine, I do feel the 6 compression strokes, but there is a definite difference in how much force is required to turn them. This all is making me believe I may need to tear it down completely. Any pointers on where I can start to check the condition?

Hello friends, I'm getting a trailer hitch fabricated by a local fellow as nothing is really available these days. I was curious if anyone had any pictures of different designs? I'll post some pictures later of one I have in mind, but I'm at the airport on my phone right now and picture are tough. The design used the diff mount as well as the bumper mounts. I send the fabricator the pictures and told him I would like something that would be fairly easy to remove. The hitch will be towing the small harbor freight trailer. It's heaviest load ever will be an L28, other then that it will be used solely as an auto x rig. Anyone have any design photos in their archives?

And when I mean brand, who did the rebuild r where did you get it from?

You make a very good point about the removal of the float lids. I didn't even think of that. What brand is your fuel pump?

Yeah, that seems to be all I can think of as well. No real way tk completely get rod of the rubber lines. Banjo bolts for the SU's don't seem to be an issue though.

Hello, I spent a good thirty minutes searching the catalogs at jegs and summit trying to figure out a way to run a straight hard line (my stock fuel "rail" isn't all that pretty right now) from the mechanical pump to the SU's. Two ways to go about this, A) find an original mech fuel pump and take out the "flared" outlets and swap them with a brake fitting or AN. The same would have to be done with the SU's. Possible? the aftermarket pumps available these days are not rebuildable, thiey only have the "flared" outlet to accept a rubber line. Is there some sort of adaptor on the market to attach to this to run to a hard line? This is all clearly cosmetic so I don't want it to be too big of a hassle but someone must have come across this in the past.

No S and L, nor F and N. But it does have a P terminal! Looks like I have a project for tomorrow! Thanks for the quick reply.

Haha. I never realized that. I used the webcam off my ;laptop to take the photo's Looks like it makes a mirror image of everything. great observation. Honestly the only markings I see are the "Hitachi" in the centre of the rear of the alt. I'm just curious if I will have to do any wiring depending if this is internally regulated or not? Honestly, I have no idea if this thing is or not. How do I tell?

I tried to get a little more light on the rear but it didn't turn out well.

Hello, Just curious if anyone can identify this alternator. It came on my F54 block, so I assume it's a ZX alt but there is not identifier plate like i've seen online. Can anyone tell by the connections on the back? I'd like to put it on when I put in the new motor as it's clean and painted "pretty", but obviously need to identify it and maybe trouble shoot it on the current motor first.

I'll have to check the seals. It seems to tighten down nice and smooth but maybe it's missing the seal completely. The residue is quite noticeable, not just a little leak.

Another silly question. When you guys fill up, does it ever leak through the cap during cornering? I keep filling up, and shortly there after I see gas residue down the side of the paint below the gas cap (i'm not spilling either). I also get a strong gas smell when filling right up, i'm curious is maybe one of my hose became disconnected when i changed out all the evap hoses.

I did this swap a few months back and my OE kicked the bucket. Civic EF fan, although for some reason the cage fit in without trimming (Although it was TIGHT). Good improvement in airflow, better yet, it works again!

Oh and Bruce, I'm in BC.

The nozzles are brand new which came with the Z therapy kit. I believe I had an exhaust leak at the manifold, which is part of my issue. I installed the exhaust at the same time as the carb rebuild. I'm going to try and fix that first and go from there. It is definitely a strong gas smell. Any recommendations on the float level? I set them both to the recommended level, but to get the best idle/performance I had to enrichen one more then the other. Obviously the float levels weren't exactly the same. It was tough as the needle valves supplied were the same length when both carbs came with a different length from factory requiring a different curve on the float tab.