HuD 91gt

You've been PM'd!! Colten

Hello friends, My new remanufactured distributor just arrive for my ZX into 240z swap. I went to pull the mount from my F54 block in my storage unit and it was missing! Who does check before ordering? Ugh. I'm in dire need of the mount and the adjusting plate. Does anyone have these hanging around? I found the mount online, but that still leaves me missing the plate which seems hard to find. I'm going to search the wreckers on Tuesday, but the yards around here don't have many old vehicles. Happy Easter

Beautiful work! Man is that thing clean. My Z is fairly rust free, but I think I have more rust showing then that one stripped!

Polished and Waxed her. Too bad the image upload completely distorted the shot. It was a gorgeous shot.

Sorry to interrupt this thread, but its on the same topic. The Just SU's DVD states 12-1400 is what you should be going for with the choke on. I noticed my Z when starting cold with the choke on it idles quite low, but once it warms up it idles high (2000RPM+). I think I need to adjust the choke linkage to lessen the opening of the butterfly, but when should this 12-1400RPM happen? As soon as the car is running, or once it has stabilized and "warmed up"? For example. Once I get the car running with the choke, i'll reduce the amount of choke and get it to idle around 1000-1200rpm. I'll get out of the car and close the garage door. By the time I get back to the vehicle it's back up at 2000rpm.

Whistle sounds like a vacuum leak. Weren't you having vacuum issues previously?

Insured it for the year, and had a friend video tape a 2nd gear run so I could hear the new exhaust and carbs do their work. https://youtu.be/Ed16ExeiQFk

thanks! They weren't too bad. Should have taken more pictures but with the just su's DVD I got them back together. Put the new exhaust on too.

Cleaned and rebuilt my first set of carbs. Today we see if I did it correctly and I get to start it up. With the new MSA premium exhaust on stock manifold!

Thanks NVZEE, I think I got the phone call the same time as your reply!

Steve from Ztherapy just got back to me, and told me to actually put the lid horizontal (90 degrees from what I have in the video), and to test it that way. He also stated the needle/seat are the same for both long/short ears these days so a decent amount of bending is required. That cleared up my questions nicely I think. I'll post my results, and perhaps another video for others with this question for the future. I think the video is a nice visual learning tool.

Also, I have one long, and one short tab. Both valve in the Ztherapy kit are the same. Is that correct?

When I spoke to Bruce on the phone, he said to specifically do it the way I posted in the video(the orientation of the lid). I was originally doing it the way you explain, as that is the way i've read online. I haven't heard a reply from him since I sent him the video. I guess we will see. I just disassembled the second carb, and when I do the test of it, the 14mm spacer is a perfect fit when the tab just makes initial contact with the valve. Obviously the float could continue to raise until the valve completely shuts about 10mm higher up. Anyone else have any more input? This measurement should be taken when the valve completely shuts, and no more air can be sucked/blown through, correct?

Hi guys, i'm just rebuilding my first set of SU's (and carbs in general), and I have a question about adjust the float. I've sent an email to Bruce @ Ztherapy, and I am waiting a reply but I know you guys can be pretty quick so i've posted here as well. The reason i'm concerned is that my Z was running decently prior to disassembly, and now following the instructions for proper float adjustment i've have to make some decent changes to the float to get it within spec. Here's the video, and let me know if i'm doing this correct. I'm also experiencing some stiction when close the valve, I assume moving the valve lower with some washers should help. How many can I add? http://youtu.be/gofNHzRZp9c

I love their products, but unimpressed with their costumer service. The first story is absolutely ridiculous, that I haven't brought to the attention of the internet yet, and my second most recent purchase includes damaged exhaust from shipping. Both without replies from my concerned emails. It's almost time to let the cat out of the bag on story #1 ha.

If your not planning on running a guage and monitoring full time is suggest putting a plug in the bung. They are known to foul fairly easily and aren't that cheap to replace. I don't see why sticking it in the back of the exhuast would be an issue.

Oops. I guess I'm mixed up with another build.

Rebelo doesn't give you the specs of the cam though do they? I might have to go that route. They know what they are doing and it seems pretty reasonably priced!

Always enjoy a good selection of exhaust videos. Thanks for sharing.

Stanley, I have enough hours in pistons aircraft to know that your flight sim leaning procedure is correct for most piston aircraft engines. I also had enough stressful moments in airplanes to know it's certainly not the most economic way to run the engines for fuel savings. I have no idea if it is a compromise for engine longevity versus maximum power though. I'd have to dig back into the books and do a little research. It's been a while. If I remember correctly it would give a slight rise in manifold pressure, or RPM on a constant speed prop so that does lead me to believe it is giving a fairly accurate measurement of increase power?

I feel like I should put together a set of multiple thicknesses, and send it around the datsun community. A deposit will be made and won't be returned until the unit is back in my hands. Not having any experience with lash pads, can they be damaged easily?

Well it's just new to me Tacoma actually.

Gorgeous looking bikes! I should have stopped by on my way through Seattle two days ago picking up my new engine!