ZDrummerGuy

Yeah, I really just wanted to get rid of the old EFI system. I was hoping the new system would help get rid of the original problems I was having... but that clearly worked out well. Another thing to mention is most of those parts were bought and installed before I installed MS2. So I got no where with the old system. But thank you for the input! I will check for holes near the EGR and Ill check the Coolant Temp Sensor with my potentiometer.

Ive adjusted my VE, Spark Advance and my AFR tables. I know the basics but I ain't no expert haha. Ive been through TunerStudio top to bottom and then researched everywhere. Twice. I'll keep tuning though! Thanks!

Hello, my baby is having trouble idling and accelerating. I just recently installed MS2 in her so I could surpass the issues I was having with the electrics. However, the problems I was having before are almost the same as the problems now. A very rough idle and no acceleration in the rpm. I have replaced the coil, distributor, plugs, plug wires, fuel filter, ECU (to MS2), and the fuel regulator. I hooked the distributor up to my laptop and the board and spun it around with a drill and got rpm on the screen, so I think that works. The coil is working too because cranking it over unhooked give plenty of spark. I did a check on the fuel pressure after the fuel filter and got 37psi with the ignition on (the pump wont shut off when the car is on on, not start.. Maybe some feedback with this too please? I know it needs to be linked to the MSII board) while cranking it over I received 34-35psi so I ruled fuel pressure out... I know the plugs get spark because after the initial cranking the car will run for 30 seconds perfectly (from the CSV) then start to idle rough then die. That is, IF the car starts. Sometimes it just cranks over and doesn't start.. instead what happens is a big sneeze and puff of white smoke pours from the intake, along with some oil from the PCV system. Another thing that isn't up to shape is the tach, which doesn't work anymore... which I think should be hooked up to the negative side of the coil but has decided that it doesn't like the new coil or the new EFI system... I have many issues... Maybe an enthusiast who knows their way around these systems can lend a helpful hand! Thanks!

Hello, Me and my dad just recently installed a MSII V3.0 into a 280z and have been having trouble getting the car to run properly. It will idle rough, bog when revving, stall for no reason..etc.. We've done everything in TunerStudio to try and make the car run at least decent. But, rich or lean with extreme advance or retarded in spark makes no difference. So we've come to the conclusion that the original electrics on the car are the problem. The fuel pressure is at a solid 30psi and through numerous tests of the injectors, we know they all work no problem. Testing the connectors going to the injectors shows that they're all fine too. It all comes down to the ignition system. I've been going through the 280 EFI bible and looking through the trouble shooting part and so far I've come up empty handed. Doing some volt meter tests on the car show that the coil is now not getting any relative voltage at all... even though it is brand new... looking back through the electrics on the passenger side of the car where the sea of wires live, I know that connector C3 would hold the connection between the coil and wherever in the ignition it goes. The connector was fine and I tried to follow the connection back further but got lost so I need someone to tell me what I should look for to determine what's causing this issue. And if anyone knows what else might be causing the car to act so strange please leave a response. It was acting like this when the coil worked too. Thanks!

I have a 1977 280z with running issues. What's wrong is that when I start the car, it cranks over fine and will start fine but after the initial start it will immediately bog down and either die or run on like 3-4 cylinders :sick: It helps tons when I push the AFM in about 25% of the way, but If I let it go on its own the car sputters and bogs down again or dies. With the AFM pushed on full (the top cover is off) I can slowly push the car up to a fairly high rpm, 5000 or so, but I can't seem to do quick revs or the car will backfire even with it in all the way. Here are some of the things I've replaced: -New cap and plug wires (with relatively new plugs; they're NGK, don't worry) -New fuel filter -New seals for the fuel injectors -New fuel regulator -New coil Here are some things I've done: -Cleaned the fuel lines -Set the timing -Tested the fuel pump (It works and puts out about 36 pounds of pressure between the new filter and the rail) -Tried a different ECU and a different AFM (Both came with the car and both give the same results) -I did do a compression test awhile ago and everything was fine, and I should be able to do another compression test tomorrow afternoon -I checked to see if the injectors work by taking them fully out of the car starting it and see them all work correctly -I did check the voltage of the clips going to each of the fuel injectors and those all work fine -I checked the points in the ECU that go to both the AFM and the fuel injectors both also came out fine -I checked the electrics in the AFM itself and everything seems fine (it's also possible to hear the fuel pump working when the AFM is puched in slightly) If anyone has an idea of what might be going on please reply, I feel like by now everything should be working at least sort of correctly. I'm at the point where digging into my pocket and sending it to a mechanics shop or buying a Megasquirt system would be better than wasting anymore time on it. Would maybe replacing the whole AFM do me any good? Could it be a bad sensor sending a bad signal to the ECU? I appreciate anyone's input! ZDrummerGuy is online now Report Post Digg this Post!Add Post to del.icio.usBookmark Post in TechnoratiTweet this Post!