abas

Mike I might be able to help there. I think I have a very shabby but complete cardboard glovebox which I can take apart to provide the measurements for. The originals cardboard parts are only stapled together before fitting in the car. Andrew

Chris/Mark I'll let you know how things progress. If I manage to make a passable set of seat protectors I see no problem in making more:classic:

Those items are to be found on the cars that were ( more or less ) on the cars built up to the end of the calendar year 1970 cars plus a few in Jan 1971, not just the registration year 1970 cars. So as Mike says it would be a 1971 year car but probably manufactured dec 70 or Jan 71. hope it helps Andrew

This might have been covered before, but can any one tell me if a brake booster can be tested off the car? like with a vacuum gun? or does it need to be on the car with the engine running for any tests? I have 2 early 1970's servos, one was working when it was taken off ( about 13 years ago :classic:) the other is an unknown but is probably the original from my my 1970 so 34 years old!!! Or given the age of the components should I just get a rebuilt one? thanks for any help Andrew

Thanks for all the replies. Incidentally I stripped part of the engine loom tape of where it was wearing and I found some of the insulation on the wires has cracked and the inner wire is exposed Seems like I will have to strip the whole loom and replace some or all of the wires ( which is probably what I should have done in the first place with a 34 year old wiring loom. Andrew

Wasn't there a thread about whether the z was virtually mid-engined due to the engine being mounted so far back in the chassis

I'm interested to see how much it goes for ( but I don't intend bidding) my guess $75, based on the current bid of $26 with over 5 days left. However if there are a couple of people who are 'desparate' to get it it could go higher ( remember $530 for a throttle/choke set-up a few months back)

Here's one for you electrical gurus. I have just got my engine bay wiring loom for my 1970 z out of storage, where it has been for about 10 years. A lot of the electrical connectors look as if they have mild corrosion on them. On any other car I would probably give the connectors a blast with with WD40 and try my luck, but knowing how critical the condition of the electrical connections can be for a z I wondered if there was any better way of cleaning up the connectors on the loom before I refit it to the car. The loom is in good condition otherwise. Thanks for any help/experiences Andrew

zedfans I was about to refit the brake distribution valve on my 240z ( that is the valve which the master cylinder pipes go into and the front brake and rear brake pipes come out of, and is attached to the drivers side inner wing/fender) , and I find it is full of crystallized brake fluid residue. Can anyone tell me whether it is OK to take this apart and clean it or should I look for another one? thanks for any help Andrew

Chris My april 1970 car has the 'remnants' of these seat guards on both driver and passenger side. I too couldn't find any part numbers and I will probably be looking at making a set ( if Kats will consent to use of his picture as a pattern.) I have found that plastic rear car bumpers are approximately the right shape/curvature for the seat guards and I am just searching for the one at my local scrapyard that is the best fit for cutting the shape out of. regards Andrew

Is it cheap to ship from Australia to the west coast of the USA? Its not hugely expensive to ship stuff from the USA to UK, especially if you don't mind waiting a month/6 weeks but I don't know about UK to USA. Hope you get your wheel soon either way. Andrew

Kats You could be onto something there. My April 1970 has L24 05778 and has O320A. (1970 march 20th?) Perhaps the code on Lonetreesteve's might give a clear indication on the age of his engine. regards Andrew

OK not Australia based, but I'm sure I've seen some Datsun 240K's in the UK that had those wheels, and maybe some of the smaller models as well. You could try datman spares in the UK www.datman.co.uk he has a picture of one of those wheels on his home page. hope it helps Andrew

I'd have to admit to some element of laziness. But mostly to do with young family = very little fecking time to work on my z's ( unless I like taking uppers and working on it through the night):classic: I just thought, it's 13 years and counting on the 1970 now. Andrew

Mangusta - wild old beast of a car!!!!. They had a rear mounted V8 with a very high centre of gravity that gave it a reputation for cornering problems similar to that of Porsche 911. One of the very rare RHD ones that had just been sold to some young gun turned up at a meeting at mallory park in the UK about 15 years ago when I was there. Mallory Park has a lethal off camber down hill left hand corner that goes past the pits, and after about 2 laps the guy in the mangusta spun it about half the length of the pit straight. Undeterred he tried even harder and a couple of laps later stuffed it backwards into the pit wall. Wierd looking car though, pantera looks much nicer IMHO Andrew

Steve 2400ohc valve covers are fairly sought after and come up on ebay fairly regularly. They usually go for $50-$125 right now but those prices have been increasing over the past year in line with most other series 1 parts. I don't know of anyone who has paid $500 for such a valve cover. hope it helps Andrew

24tzman/Carl/lonetreesteve It seems from previous posts maybe the only link to 1970 is the 2400ohc valve cover, from which the PO might have got his dating info from. As far as I know this 2400 valve cover will fit any head, any year, and so cannot help towards dating the age of the block ( Over here we would refer to it as a 'red herring' but I don't know whether that term is in use in the US).:classic:

Lonetreesteve This has me intrigued:classic:. I'll talk to a few people I know who might know the answer. regards Andrew

Now THAT'S commitment:classic:

Lonetreesteve Are you sure its not L24 6039 instead of 60039? That number would be consistent with an early/mid 70 240z regards Andrew

I have to avoid books like that as my credit cards run away and and hide.:classic:

How about fibreglass ones? But they probably wouldn't protect your car much, if you happened to have a bit of girlfriend trouble along the same lines as Proxlamus:classic: Or you could try eliminating the bumpers altogether!!! But I have to say I cringe whenever I see a z with no bumpers as I can see a small parking shunt at some point in the future turning into major body damage. Can't deny those bumpers saved you a lot more heartache, Proxlamus. regards Andrew

How do the police decide who gets to drive it? Or perhaps the head of police will commandeer it as his own official transport:classic:

Guys I've heard a variety of suggestions for those who want a working clock. 1) clean the internal mechanism thoroughly with thinner, and relube 2) replace with a later quartz clock. 3) for the real purist with money burning a hole in their pocket, there are some places that will replace the innards of the clock with a later quartz mechanism but keep the Jeco face so it looks like the earlier clock. On RHD cars you can get the clock out by taking the glove box out first, no need to remove the dash or heater panel. Hope it helps Andrew