abas

Ahem!!!! oldER :classic: I do feel much oldER now that Alfadog at 19 is 'not so young anymore'

A few more 'South of the equator' regulars to post yet? Maybe we'll hear from Zkid and Kyteler once the weekend is over. And how about the big cheese himself Mike Gholson? Victor, or should I say Dr Evil (" throw me a fricking bone here") :classic: Andrew

Zvoiture I could have sworn that was Oliver Hardy ( of Laurel and Hardy) in the middle of that picture. Here's one of me taken just after an apologetic frail old lady reversed into my Z:classic:

page cannot be displayed here Boo Hoo!!

The run up to Xmas starts early in the UK. Pretty much after Halloween or Guy Fawkes night (November 5th) you will see the shops decked out in Holly/fake snow etc with bloody Jingle bells on loop in the background. Xmas in Oz/New Zealand (in the Summer!!!) would feel a bit strange for us from the Northern hemisphere experiencing it for the first time. Does Santa wear shorts and a T-shirt.:classic: Surely he would get heatstroke wearing that thick red and white coat in the Summer down there.

Is this video shot in from the US? I haven't seen Mk1 Ford Cortinas outside Europe before.

that complete NOS choke/throttle setup that went on ebay recently for $530 I think had the round knobs. If someone knows who the buyer was maybe he would divulge the part number for it?( if it was still in the original packaging) Be interesting to see if it was the same number as MDbrandy's.

Alan Thanks for posting the pics of the hand throttle linkups. I was about to post a thread to find out it connects up, as neither of my cars had a throttle lever originally. regards Andrew

Kats Just curious, but what is the plaque on the centre console just in front of the choke & throttle levers on your car? regards Andrew

I only think the hubcaps would fall off if you have the really early hubcaps with only 17 'gripper' tabs on the back of the hubcap, instead of 40 on the later 1970 ones and then only if you were cornering pretty hard. Having said that, with the price of replacing the 'd' stlye caps reaching ridiculous levels ( I know as I've only recently managed to buy some), it is not something you want to leave to chance. Andrew

Kats I'd agree with Alan on this one. It seems 'accepted' that the very early cars had the rounded knobs which are therefore much more difficult to find. I have never seen a rounded throttle lever knob for sale but I have seen the occasional rounded choke lever knob for sale. I've just bought a throttle cable unit off ebay that has the more square knob. Probably correct for my April 1970 car. I don't know what came with mine originally as it did not have a choke lever knob when I bought the car. regards Andrew

Kats I look forward to seeing the rear deck on yours. As far as I can tell my April 1970 has the same deck as 26th-z's. I'll post a picture (if I can get my digi camera to work!!!) regards Andrew

Agreed but I and I assume many others do not have access to air tools. An impact driver at $10 is 'cheap'. For fairly 'beefy' items hitting them with an impact driver will not harm them. That includes z seat frames as I have been there. But I would not use one on unsupported sheet metal for instance. Would an 'air hammer' deal with a seized cross head screw? Wouldn't it chew up the screw head if you didn't hold it REALLY tight against the screwhead? The beauty of an impact driver is that it forces the screw bit into the head of the screw it is to hold and as such is ideal to remove seized SCREWS. I agree that for seized BOLTS an impact driver should be un-necessary. A breaker bar and socket ( or air hammer if you have one) is far better. Just my opinion. Each to their own Andrew

For clarification – impact driver looks like a fat screwdriver with interchangeable bits that go in the end – about $10 at a tool shop: you hit one end and it provides a twisting force to remove a stuck screw) Personally I think an impact driver is an indispensable tool ( and frequently the only way) for removing seized cross head screws, which I think is what Shoudt is dealing with. Perhaps I have misunderstood, but I don’t see how a socket set would help.

Do the ones from Classic datsun look exactly the same the originals? I bought some from somewhere else and they are 'close' to original but not 100%

I heard that in total over all the series of Dukes of Hazzard they wrecked some 200-300 Dodge chargers. Criminal if correct Andrew

I had the same problem. Brace the seat frame and use an impact screwdriver. As you are replacing the seat covers it shouldn't matter if you damage the old cover when you hit it. If that doesn't work then it must be well seized and you will have to drill it out. Just out of interest where did you get your replacement seat covers from? I got some from toointense, but I'm not 100% happy with them. regards AndrewB

I agree, unless the seller emails you after auction end and says that he got the shipping wrong, as has happened to me on a couple of occasions. I know you can say 'but this is a binding contract' and all but if you really want the part you will pay an extra $2 if they want it. Strangely one guy in particular wouldn't actually ask me for extra shipping but kind of 'hinted' that the shipping had gone up and wouldn't give me any kind of promise as to delivery etc UNTIL I e-mailed him and said well would the extra $2 resolve the matter. Not surprisingly it did. Fortunately that is the kind of game only a few people seem to play. The majority of sellers are great no problems at all. And keeping an eye on a seller's feedback does no harm either. I would never buy an expensive item from someone with little or no feed back. I might risk it on a cheap item that I really want. I'll also second Bambikiller's point about Midwestz. Chloe's 'bombproof' packaging is becoming legendary, and I 'm sure defies physics with the amount of packing material they can get into a box of a certain size. :classic:

I'd agree with all the comments about no shipping quoted=seller going to try and stiff you on the shipping. I've also been shafted where there is a choice of shipping ( particularly as I am outside the US) of either surface or airmail. Unless I really need it badly ( or unless I trust the shipper) I now go for surface mail as more than once I have paid for airmail and the seller has sent it surface mail ( 6weeks delivery!!!) and pocketed the difference.

I think there is an element of skill involved, but I don't think it takes that long to acquire at lowish speeds and on purpose built tracks and such I would guess is an OK spectator sport but not one for me. What gets my respect is oversteer in an F1 car at 170 mph, or at 120 mph in a rally car through a forest with nothing but very solid trees or a 100ft drop should you lose it. In a sense the rallying guys are the ultimate 'drifters' as their object is to keep the car 'loose' all the time.

Sledz I don't know how much you consider to be outrageous but I bought a NEW 70-71 master cylinder from Andy at Datsun dude for I think it was $125. He is at z@datsundude.com. I would stick to the old stlye if that sort of price is OK, as I recall Carl Beck discussing some problems with the servo pushrod length if you change from old to new or vice versa. If you do decide to swap to the later style I would go for a new one, not rebuilt. They have come up on ebay recently for quite reasonable money ($50) It does sound as if your steering wheel is a 1970/71, which do not have the cut outs on the spokes Hope it helps:classic: Andrew

ezzie welcome to 240z.org:classic: One of our sponsors Midwestz ususally has some good secondhand racks in. www.midwestz.com Best of luck Andrew

texasz changing the diff is pretty straightforward bolt in affair. I found it a bit awkward to do it on my own especially if you can only lift the car a short way on axle stands. Best way is to 1) jack back of car up and put on axle stands 2) place trolly jack under rear of diff 3) remove half shafts and drive shaft 4) release the back of the original diff at the 2 outside moustache bar nuts. 4) Undo do the 4 bolts holding in the front diff cross memeber to the floorpan lowering the trolley jack, the diff *should* lower with it. (I can't at present remember whether the rear suspension a-frames will foul the diff as you lower it, if the do it is a simple matter of removing the rear a-arm cross member. You will know what I mean when you are there!!! 5) swap the moustache bar and front cross member over to new diff. Check your front diff mount and outer mostache bar bushes for deterioration while it is out. 6) check the diff strap that is left on the car above where the diff goes for wear deterioration. 7) and as it says in the Haynes manual 'replacement is a reversal of the above :classic: Are you going to change the speedo drive gear. I presume you speedo will be out once you change the diff. hope it helps Andrew

Eric I'm interested in the webers but I think that someone a bit more more local than me ( I'm approx 6000 mles away) might beat me to them:classic: AndrewB