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Kats picture number 3 Let me know what you think regards Andrew

Kats picture number 2

Kats pictures as requested. Apologies for the delay.

Apologies for the dimness of this reply but do the SU's on z's have rubber vaccum diaphrams inside the 'dome'. ??? I've never actually taken one apart. I had a car that had stromberg carbs (which are like SU's) which had a rubber vacuum diaphram inside the dome. If this split or was replaced incorrectly it would give that same 'rev-limiter' at 3000 rpm feel that KEINsm is experiencing. Hope it helps Andrew

I would also (as you say ) remove the rocker cover and oil the cam lobes. They get pretty dry if not started for 6 months. AndrewB

datto-zed paid far too much for mine given that it had a blown engine, and I also was given the choice at the time to buy a nice running z that was was a much later (and more expensive) auto 240z. But I wanted a no rust early 1970 car so I bought the non runner. That was 12 years ago and I have not driven a z since then. I often think how much fun driving I have missed out on by buying a non runner, which I have not had time to do anything much with since then. I have been tempted to try and sell it to buy a runner, but it was however the last car I viewed with my Dad, indeed viewing the car was the last time I went anywhere with my Dad before he died, so I have a heavy sentimental attachment to it, despite my Dad telling me in no uncertain terms that I had bought a pile of shite. :classic: Still hopefully I am on the upward curve now and with Chloe's(Midwestz) help I might have a runner in a couple of years!!! :classic: I hope your car get sorted soon, and that you can look back and smile over the experience!!!! ( Easier said than done) Andrew

Owen Do you know if Arnie could ever get to be Vice president? Zero Z content I know but hey.....:classic: Andrew

Carl at least you can relax in the knowledge that he can never be president ( if my understanding of the US constitution is correct) :classic: Andrew

kats I have one superspeed 20 bridgestone 175sr14 like the ones you are looking for. It is the spare from my car which is April 1970. It has only been on the car once since I have had it and apart from dirt and cobwebs it seems to be in good condition. I will clean it up and check on its condition for you, with picture if you want. I'm more than happy to help if you want it that badly.!!!! all the best Andrew

page can't be displayed:cry: boo-hoo!!! I'll try again later

Hi all I been offered a 3.70 r200 diff and gearbox from a 1975/6 260z2+2, as replacements for the 3.90 diff and 5 speed from my 1972z ( which have gone elsewhere). Question I have is will the 260z 2+2 mustache bar and other mounting hardware fit onto the 2 seater OK. ( I ask as it is usually assumed that the r200 comes from a 280z and I do not know whether a 280z has the same mounting hardware as a 260z 2+2) thanks for any help

datsun76 is that a house with a garage or a garage with a house attached:classic: Andrew

Alan Nice house. I particularly like the the patent pending interchangeable wall/window/roofing material that enables you to have your windows and doors where you like. :classic: I don't have any pictures of my house, but imagine something from the post-apocalyptic scenes from Terminator and you won't be far away!!!! Andrew

daftest thing I did was to assume that an empty shell didn't really weigh enough to need 4 axle stands. So I used 2 at the back and one under the front crossmember. A friend cam round and kind of half sat on one of the front corners of the car and it started to tip and slide over. Luckily I also do the same as Marty and had the wheels under the sills and so they took the fall.

When I bought my 1972 UK spec 240z in 1988 the splash pan car had no paint at all on it (just 16 years worth of heavy rust) As far as I can tell it had never been removed from the car either. All the others I have seen (very few have them) were painted black. Even on early cars.

Victor Use hands signals!!!! Seriously though, could you test the indicator switch ( a good candidate for the problem) by bridging the wires either side of the indicators to see if the indicator circuit operates OK without the switch. Andrew

Mark 1.25 is the thread pitch. I don't know whether that is coarse or fine, but the hardware shop should kmow what 1.25 thread is. regards Andrew

there is a similar discussion going on a motorbike mailing list I susbscribe to. In this case to do with derusting the inside of fuel tanks. One Intriguing rust removal method suggested is the submersion of items in molasses to remove all traces of rust.!!!! Seems to take quite a while though and pretty messy I would guess but could be useful for derusting nuts and bolts.

I take it the tonneau is like a luggage area cover?

Mark they are m10x1.25. I removed one from my 1970 and measured it:classic: Andrew

Just after I got my first z ( long time ago) I was pressing on down a little country lane, when the brakes were suddenly not stopping me any more, although the pedal was still firm. Anyways stopped to let things cool down, but it did not make any difference. Moral of this story is I had to drive some distance home with no brakes, and it shook me up pretty bad. I don't mess about where brakes are concerned anymore, both my z's have ALL new brake components (except front calipers) for when they return to the road. Turned out the previous owner had put some pads in that were off some economy car with nearly the same pad pattern, and had filed out the pad holes to make them fit. Couldn't cope with the weight/performance of the Z and presumably over heated the compound so much they didn't recover. :stupid: Scary!!!

240znz Do you have a picture of the hatch around the hatch grille hole on your car? I'd like to compare with mine, to see if there is anything different between the 2 cars. Thanks if you can help. Yep all z owners seem to have such a list of 'difficult' jobs. My whole car is on the list at present.:classic:

240znz This is a subject close to my heart. I've had the need to ask many of these questions on various forums and ususally get no replies. Here's what I know. 1) The drain tubes are not available new. If you find some, buy them!!!!:classic: 2) The grilles being made of plastic are very difficult to remove without breaking the mounting pins. As far as I know these were the only badges on the early 240z that were ALWAYS made of plastic. 3) The drain tubes on my 1970 240z are held in by 1) some sort of glue on the inside of the hatch and 2) by a metal clip that attaches them to the underside of the hatch hole that doubles ( on the outside of the hatch) as the hole into which the grille pins clip into. On my car the holes IN THE HATCH ITSELF are too big and this clip has a smaller hole for the grille pins to go into. The reason why I have a problem is that I am missing 2 of the clips ( there are 2 for each vent) and as such can't attach one of the grilles on the hatch. And of course I can't get any replacements. I am assuming that what is on my z is the same as all early z's. Of this I can't be sure. To get back to your problem:classic: Don't try to remove the drain tubes without checking whether you have clips underneath the grilles first, and remove them if they are there. ( you mentioned you had already removed one of the grilles if the clips are there they should be on either end of the hatch hole) If you try to remove the drain tubes without removing the clips you will probably break the clips and the drain tubes. As you have mentioned most drain tubes are now getting very brittle from UV and age. phew!!!! Hope it helps. Let me know how you progress.

Lance is your 240z on coilovers or original struts? I ask only as 235 width sounds quite wide on a 240z with no mods.