gwri8

I would start by putting each cars needs on paper and and then comparing things cost wise. I tend to lean towards the purist side. And since the red car being a early 71' and is considered a series 2, I think needs to be kept with its original parts as much as possible. It seems to have had more attention than the white car. 240's in original (or close to original) are getting harder to find. Of course I can't see how much work each one needs, so I'm basing it purely on just the few pictures you've posted. It's just my opinion, but pulling good parts from the red car for the white car is kind of flowing backwards, so to speak, Others my disagree. You can sill source badging, interior and engine parts so why not just rebuild The white one has already been "changed" with the L28 swap and is already in need of a lot of cleaning up. I think you can more free to do more with it and not hurt the value. Both seem like a good starting point. You are very lucky. By the way, your spare L28 looks to be from a 78'

Who says you can only have one? Keep them both! ? As far as value, the #'s matching car will be worth more when finished. I don't know how much more rust it has than the white car but just from the photos it does not seem too bad. I've definitly seen worse brought back got life. With the white car either fix the current engine or swap with your spare. You'll probably need a EFI wiring harness and a few other parts for that, none of witch should be impossible to find. Paint will cost you more than any kind of mechanical work. IMO, I wouldn't scrap one for the other, I think it would be a waste .

I replaced a broken Helicoil on my #6 cylinder today, or should I say the last two and 1/2 days... . It started when I was checking my plugs when I noticed #6 came out with the helicoil attached. No big deal I thought, I'll just put some lock tight on it and put it back in, until I noticed was only half of the helicoil. Checked the head and sure enough the other half was still there. Aaarrgh! End result was that I successfully removed the stuck half without having to remove the head.? I did learn a couple of new things that hope I won't have to remember.

You've probably already done this and I didn't see it in this thread, but did you check you alternator output with a multimeter? The alt or belt might be at the beginning stages of leaving the arena, so to speak. Just because the lights don't dim as much doesn't mean that the alternator is performing to spec and could cause your brake light to stay on.

I think you are correct on your first line up, but I have a lot of trouble calling that an orange tone....jeez, it seems like it was just a different lot # on the yellow run.

Looks good!

I was out driving the other day and found a car lot with all right hand drives. This was among them and I thought how cool would it be to show up at ZCon driving this beauty! No, I didn't buy it..

Took mine out on this pleasant sunny day. After the first mile I looked in the rear view mirror and noticed I had an unwelcome passenger....a red wasp! Had to go another 2 miles before I could pull over and open the rear hatch to let him free range. Glad traffic wasn't bad!

Problem solved. A long while back I had replaced all the dash lights with LED's. There was an LED instead of an incandescent bulb in the fuel warning indicator and as explained by @captainobvious in another thread explaining how the fuel warning light worked here: I figured since the LED requires a lot less energy to light up compared to an OEM bulb and with a constant draw from the warning light on the fuel sensor, it would always be "on". I changed it back to a regular incandescent bulb and now it's off with the tank full. I'll just have to run out a full tank of gas to check that it lights up close to empty. If it works, and I think it will, I'll have two extra 77-78 fuel senders.

Well I received the fuel sender today and got it installed. I'm impressed with the build quality of it and there are only couple of minor differences from an OEM one. They are the same size and length, has the correct bends, the alignment notch is correct, sweeps up quicker than before and it fits just fine. It even comes with a new gasket. The only problem I have is that where the low fuel light never worked before, now it's on all the time, even with a full tank. I don't think the sender is the cause just yet so I've got some exploring to do.

I know what I'll be dreaming of tonight....

Gotta love a fresh paint job, especially this color! I predict you're gonna dote over this for at least a year!

You me him three..

If Charles doesn't I think I do. Just let me know.

yeah, they look like the original, shape wise at least, and worth the effort IMO. I don't imagine Z Car Depot selling anything knowing it's a bad product.

I just ordered one and will compare it to an original. I'd be excited if my low fuel light worked with this one.

This is from a 77' which should be the same. Just match tab on the tank with the notch on the sender.

Given all the bans of public gatherings and events plus the shutdown of some business's, it looks like some of us might get some more quality time with our Z's.

I was typing this as Patcon responed?. One more thing to consider is the check valve between the magnet valves and the vacuum canister. 45 years is a lot to ask from a plastic part and they do go bad. With your heat on and the engine running, pull the vacuum line on the back side of the check valve and put your finger on the hose, you should feel some suction. If you have suction there , put the hose back on and pull the vacuum hose on the other side of it. You should feel suction from the valve there also. If not, the check valve is bad. Bay and Amazon sell them, 1/8" is the nipple size.

Hmmm, I can kind of relate to this.......