gwri8
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Everything posted by gwri8
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If you are considering stickers, there are plenty of online printers like this one. https://www.48hourprint.com/sticker-printing.html?utm_source=mkt&utm_medium=email&utm_campaign=48hp_thm_200224a_cstr&utm_content=recm_prdt_img_3&eml=_w_48hp_ty_sched_sc_mkt_p_thm_cd_200224_v_a_co_recm-prdt-img-3_sg_cstr&mkt_tok=eyJpIjoiWkRSa1pHWTNNalUyTjJaaCIsInQiOiJSbzZQdDZjc0ZieGdUR2ZaNGhCdys0QUswelRGaXhEaVltQXo3Wjk3aVZtcXNlYjFIUDBJUmNZelRWSHBpVlQzSnU2VExnXC9ORStmajVuODlwXC9uZDNkcjR3XC9QSEZhXC9UejRicUlSM09paHJhTmlvcFVXb1dnWEt4VXNreXhTekEifQ%3D%3D I'm not saying this one is the best or worst choice but a google search for similars would give you a price range that might be acceptable.
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Mine is closer to 13 but the gauges are not known to be that accurate. You might want to put a meter on your battery to get an accurate reading.
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Now that I've slept on it, I believe @Captain Obvious has printed white type on a black surface on the fusible links labels? Maybe he has a solution (he usually does).
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I think the transparent (or translucent) material you are printing on is allowing too much bleed from the black plastic case.. You might try printing a test on a solid black matte material. Once you get the right opacity of the ink on a solid color there should be no bleed through when applied, and if that works you could just use the black material and not worry about the clear stuff. Also, I don't know if it is the plastic cover itself or the glue backing on the printing material that is showing. I think a solid color would eliminate that. 2 cents.....
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Ditto on the upper left.
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Or maybe a lighter yellow? and for informational references, I put a 77' cover on Jai's 76' (she didn't have one to compare with). I don't recall any fitment problems, but I think the only difference was the exterior printed fuse locations maybe?
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Just a thought, but while the heat shield is off, you might want to tidy up under there like cutting the corroded bolts and replacing them on the EGR tube heat shield and check the torque on the intake and exhaust manifolds. Putting the large heat shield back on is not easy either, but not as hard as removing it for some reason. However getting all of the bolts on underneath started will require squirrel size hands. Just a heads up.....
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Oh, I've removed mine a few times and never had to remove the EGR pipe, although it is mighty tempting and that's probably why I don't pet strange dogs anymore. It's a puzzle for sure!
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Since you still have the EGR ( I have mine also) you don't have to remove the tube. It does help to remove the PCV hose. If I remember correctly, the biggest heat shield comes out only one way, and I can never remember that one way each time I've removed mine ?. You probably need to wiggle some more and it will magically come out. Just remember the way its came out because that is the only way it will go back in. I'm going to go out on a limb, but I think the folks who deleted the EGR altogether don't have this problem......
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These came from Amazon with several to choose from, but I have also seen them on the rack at Auto Parts Stores. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07QDYF382/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
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Battery Bling! Finally got around to installing new battery terminals that have sat around about 4 months. I like the way they look and will be great for the eye candy part of car shows but the functionality will require more effort. Instead of just a 1/2" (13mm) wrench, I'll have to add a full set of Hex keys and a 9/16" to the tool carry kit. The plastic covers look good too but there's Nooo Waay that I will ever let an Autozone guy replace the battery without me removing them first.
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He picked a nice one!
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I guess my hole is further up the evolutionary ladder as it has no threads ?
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I've been chasing electrical in my 77' for the last three month's . A floating/misreading fuel gauge was one of those problems. I know I checked and cleaned the connections and wiring from the gauge to the sender at least three or four times. Today, just by chance, I noticed that yellow/green mate lock connector to the fuel sender was slightly receded in the connector housing not making a full contact with the male pin when they were pushed together. I've repaired that and will double check it again tomorrow if I can get my car out. So, when you inspect the connections, look really close.?
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Don't want to dash your dreams, but it will never be over ? . As anyone here will attest, owning a Z is a bit like Hotel California except that the fun never ends! Like you, my OCD needs to be fed on a regular basis and I can't think of a better meal than a Datsun. ? Really enjoying your progress and that Green is Gorgeous!
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Punk is not dead.
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Yes, they most certainly are. Still working on them but most of the flaws have been worked out ?
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Assuming it's on an S30 and you are talking about the interior handle then there is only 1 small screw that holds it to the door frame. It's behind the black plastic liner (if you still have one) on the escutcheon plate at the bottom of the page.
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Lowell George would be honored at your reference CO.?
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Me Likey! I've been wondering how his car was progressing. Now it's just got assembly to go through (which is no small feat as we all know...)
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Kind of reminds me a a flux capacitor just a little......?
