gwri8
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Everything posted by gwri8
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Also check for any wobble in the pins. I just had one that tested ok but one of the pins was loose and created an intermittent problem. -
Mind you that I'm probably not the first one to come to with electrical issues, but back to what @SteveJ mentioned, did you check your ignition switch? It's a fairly inexpensive part and should be easy to do if you already have the clamshell off.
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Mine just gives me a list of _hit that she wants done but is not willing to do. That's how I can tell she thinks of me.....
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Zexy!
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Took me a minute when I saw that. I was thinking I knew most of the parts of a 77' but that was strange to me and I probably needed one for mine whatever it was ?.
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Ahhh, the BFH to the rescue once more. One of my favorite tools. Had a mechanic tell me once about how to remove a stubborn bolt that I was beating on and would not budge. He said " Get a bigger hammer". It worked.
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First image shows the notch on the sender and tab on the tank Second image shows feed lines inside the tank that the float has to go over, then under the lines. You'll need tilt the sender to do this Third images show the correct orientation of the two top posts on the sender once it is seated. This would be the angle of view if you were working in the hatch. It should seat easily but If there is any binding you'll need to readjust the sender by lifting it up and try again. You'll know when everything feels right.
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The good news is you don't have to drain or drop the tank to fix this. It can all be done under the back decking through a round plate on the passenger side. Clocking is important. There is a notch on the sender that lines up with a tab on the tank. Since it is a top mounted unit you have to be careful putting the sender into the tank. After your gyrate the float to pass through the opening, that float has to go OVER two hard lines in the tank. There is a good chance that you dropped the sender float and arm are on the wrong side of those two lines. That would in effect jam the sender are and not allow the sender to read accurately. I'll post some pictures shortly.
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One thing to consider before assembly is the condition of the original bolts and screws. Some will be great, others will be poor. These aren't zinc plated but I found these to be useful to have on hand for replacements when needed. Different lengths of course. https://www.ebay.com/sch/sis.html?_nkw=M6+M8+M10+304+Stainless+Phillips+Hex+Bolts+SEMS+Screws+Group+Flat+Sping+Washer&_id=142002895203&&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l46251
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Found this. It's vague on hose placement but you should be able to puzzle it properly.
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And I believe the duct routes over the glove box on the passenger side.
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I'm just south of you in GA with a 280. Not a 240, but close. There is another member in Cleveland, @thumpgun , with a modded 240. I haven't heard from him in a while but maybe he will see this post. Let me know If I could help. But before you start, download the 72' FSM here under the resources tab. It will solve a lot of mysteries.
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Red Wasps make me pucker a little I gotta admit... Remember not too long ago (maybe a year or so) a blue 76' ,what seemed to be quite a bit rougher than this latest, went for 36K on BAT. I'm not sure that it was even a one owner car but I do remember that the paint was not near as nice.
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Numbers like that are rewarding on many levels and also a good reason to keep a car as original as possible.
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Now to figure what it connects to. Once you confirm which head and block you have, you'll need download the proper FSM for a ZX and figure out which EFI wiring harness is in your car since you have since you have a dangling connection on the sensor. One for the 78 or 79? I know you have a 78' but which month was it produced? I don't have first hand knowledge of the ZX but I'm curious as when they started changing parts for the new model in the production. Maybe someone here can answer.
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Zed Head is correct. Apparently you have a transplant in your engine bay. Here is a shot of the thermostat housing from a 79-83 ZX engine. Looks like yours from what I can tell. That certainly changes which parts to order.
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You can also check out Blues page for more pictures to help. Just scroll down a little. http://www.atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/electricalconnections/index.html 240260280 is the author of that site and it covers everything. A great resource for Z owners.
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The sensor with the bullet connector is the one for the temp gauge. Those sensors mounted in the thermostat housing connect to the harness on top of the intake manifold here. Here is a little more explanation from the FSM in the EFI section
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That green top thing in your hand is a Coolant Temperature Switch/sensor. The Coolant Temperature Sensor for the temp gauge looks like this and uses the bullet connector. This helps identify the different sensors.
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Just to make sure, did you check the EFI connection by the battery? It splits off the positive terminal. That connection can get overlooked connection wise and or become corroded. There is also a fusible like there that you could check. top picture, upper right hand corner.
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I really wanted to make it to Branson this year. I'm sure that anyplace that has a warrant out for Cliff must definitely be a party town worth going to... and I have family near there and could have made good use of a trip that way, but the gods (roofers, doctors, car dealers, insurance folks, etc..) said no (actually they said Hell NO!). Anyway , I'm aiming for NashVegas next year also. That's close enough that I'm sure Cliff has left some tracks there so it will be fun for sure.
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Like him or hate him, Scotty Kilmer on You Tube answers a fellow's question about Nissan on his channel that some of us old timers might find interesting.
