gwri8

That plate is a mystery to me also. One thing for sure though is that you can't remove that swing arm bolt with that plate in. Maybe some kind of safety thing? Jai's Redwing had the driver side bolt fall out and the passenger side was very loose but still in place after she had all the bushings replaced when she bought the car. They either didn't torque the bolts when installed or they worked loose after driving.

I couldn't find a picture of it so you'll have to use your imagination a little. I drilled a 1/2" hole through a 2x4. With the Gland not off, I Inserted the the top of the strut through the hole and put a big washer and nut on to secure it. Then I suspended the strut and housing off the ground between the corner of my workbench. Sawhorses or something sturdy would work also. Added oil or PB Blaster (I don't remember exactly) down the strut housing and started tapping/hitting with a hammer and a block on top edge of the strut housing where the gland nut threads, careful not to mangle or distort the threads. You can also hit around the bottom of the housing also. I found that using Vibration and the weight of the strut housing worked in my favor.

By no means am I an expert, but I don't think there is any way ATF can get into your engine oil unless you put it there. The reason I asked about the rebuild (since you did not give a timeline or details) is that it is not unusal to pull the engine an trans together. Some people find it easier. If the engine/trans were removed, like at an angle, there is a fair chance that ATF leaked out of the transmission and was not put back in. With that assumption, I would just refill ATF and monitor it for leaks as a start. There are a lot of variables so it's just my opinion.

You said new engine. Does your new engine oil look odd? Did you pull the old engine and transmission out together?

Sounds like my workshop........

I agree. I just resprayed my interior panels and door cards with SEM products . I had the paint shop color match an existing panel and they came out fine. However I don't know if it would work well for seat covers. I believe your interior color is often referred to as Butterscotch. That may help in your search for any replacements if that is the route you choose.

Wow! You pulled that one back from beyond the edge! Good job.

PB Blaster, Vise grips, taps from a dead blow hammer and small propane torch worked for me on the head bolts. It's worth a try but if you're going to take the block in for boring or decking, then I would share the fun and let them do it. They have proper equipment and it's no big deal for them.

I concur! Just wait till you get it all painted and out in the sun. You might find yourself just staring at it.

Yeah, I thought they were cut too until I looked at mine ?

Just cleaned them a little and I would say they are in great shape. They are not painted, just wiped down with water. I also have the wheel arch vinyls also in the same condition. PM me if you are interested.

I know I have black ones. I'll have to pull them out to inspect for quality.

Yep, mine had one. But once it was off it never went back on and since I don't track my car, I haven't noticed any difference in noise or performance. Maybe my hearing or expanded waistline has something to do with it??

I have one in my Fed 77' and there's one in the 78' I'm putting together so it's not just a Canadian thing. If Canadian fuel flatulence smells of maple syrup then my car needs a different diet.......

Blackbird over the years.

But you didn't drop your Beer, did you? ?

You need to scroll down a bit. They were reloaded.?

Odd, I was missing the passenger side flapper door on mine when I got it and wound up buying a whole heater box just to replace it. I do have that side panel plus a few other pieces, but not the passenger side door (I used that), if you can't find one there. Since our countries are at "war", I don't know how hard it would be to ship there. ?

I used a closed cell craft foam from places like Mart and Hobby Lobby to replace mine.

And here is what is inside that bad boy in case you were interested.

Alas, no photo's today, but I will add that it was time consuming even with help. An extra pair of hands is the only thing I would add to zKars list. The spray adhesive included in the MSA headliner kit was good. It was the 3M 08088.

Perfect timing! I'm just heading out to install a headliner kit from MSA today (not my car) and was just thinking what adhesive what order would be best. Thanks!

Just a suggestion, but wouldn't bigger front and rear sway bars improve your cornering while keeping the softer ride with stock struts and springs?

That's a good looking Z. Looks like it's nicely done, somebody will want it fo sho!