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Production date was 06/76, Jai has has the serial #.

I used a light coat of spray adhesive on the edges of the paper gasket and all has been fine.

IMO getting rid of the brake warning system or any warning light is not a reduction or a simplification. More of an open door for a disaster. One should never assume any brake system is always going to work, especially in a 40 something year old car. That's what those are for. There are plenty of threads here and on other sites as to upgrading the brakes to wilwood or Toyota 4 piston and that is very doable. But I would keep the warning systems it it were me.

I'll check the donor car date tomorrow for you Mark. When I glanced over it the other day it seemed to be in good shape overall. I got the impression the seller is not a restorer, more of a scavenger who would rather part out for more money than to sell a whole car. This is not his first Z by any stretch. He's easy to deal with though. Did you ever solve your fuel tank?

Found this close by Jai. Looks like it might have everything you need. https://nwga.craigslist.org/pts/d/1976-datsun-280z-parts/6322845727.html

Aside from a parts stash, my shop is like 5lbs. of crap in a 1lb. bag. However, I do know what is in each of the piles, or at least close to it . I started to reorganize it but discovered a leak and had to segue into a huge plumbing problem which evolved into a bathroom remodel...a never ending story. House onions! I think it could be a money maker for you Cliff. You could start in the garage and of course people would say ,"While you're here....." Much like working on a Z.

Yes Jai, rounded bumper. Here is an example pic. Don't forget the headlight ring https://zcardepot.com/headlight-trim-ring-pair-oem.html and maybe the headlight housing https://zcarsource.com/headlight-assembly-280z-75-78-right-used.

Try Vintage connections. The site is kinda wonky and you have to dig a little but the products are good from my experience.

Those are good things to check that ZH mentioned. Also, when it the last time you checked the bulbs in the sockets? If you've never checked before, that is a common connection problem due to rust and crud built up over time on cars that have sat for a long time. It happens to the running/parking lights also. Probably a good time to check them all. Deoxit is the cleaner that some of the electrical guys around here like to recommend.

It is a 76'. but she has a 77' bumper on the front. That's the way it came to her from the PO. Either one will be most difficult to replace.

I was thinking the the same thing Cliff, but it might look weird with her stock back bumper....if it stays. That would be an option too. But who knows what her insurance will pay for and how they will handle the parts situation, and Jai may not go for that kind of change anyway. I'll bet the toof incident didn't stop you though. Am I right?

Are you going to only do plastic or metal or both? I suppose rubber parts aren't doable with that machinery?

I see a passenger fender, scoop, headlight, ring, possibly a headlight housing. The hardest thing to find is the passenger side front bumper end for a 77'.

Well, I have been known to work in an unorthodox fashion. And, I am an official member of the "Blue Flame Club" so I have background and experience. It's just the creative side of me I guess. As for my wife, let's just say sometimes it's a competition.

I've been eating chili for 3 days straight. As soon this experiment is over I might be able to offer suggestions.

I think I'm getting so good at it I can switch hands and gain a stroke.... no pictures allowed

Waaaayyy too many opportunites to segue straight to the gutter here and since I don't need much of a lead... I shall refrain..... and just to be clear, I'm not a prolific lever flipper. It either works or it dosen't in my general operating procedure. I followed your advice here and after I moved the vacuum source tube around I finally bypassed everything, Mag valve bracket and the vacuum bottle. It turns out that the check valve was bad. Apparently it was leaking slowly and wouldn't hold any pressure. I've never heard of one of those to go bad before, but I learn something new everyday. Fortunately I have a whole bracket from a parts car. The mag valves were toast on that one but I never throw anything away and still had it in my stash! I was able to use the check valve from that one with success. Now there is glorious heat on demand! A whole new season of driving is now an option. So Thanks Cap'n!

No butt connector. I used a quick splice connector to the hot (green/white? if I remember correctly. You should probably check to make sure) on the rear brake light and grounded to the body. similar to these connectors. https://www.amazon.com/CJESLNA-Splice-Electrical-Connector-Assortment/dp/B00A7YO5AK/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1505420033&sr=8-1&keywords=wire+splicers Putting it outside on the louvers would make you drill a hole near the glass for the wiring. I don't know about your louvers, but mine bounce a little bit, so consider that also.

I added a third brake light to mine with a $10 Ebay light and wired to to my existing brake lights. Mine is kind of short but it is pretty bright. You could probably find one longer if you wanted. 3M adhesive tape mounted it to the inside glass and has held up well over the summer. It's very visible through the louvers to normal kinds of vehicles and SUV's behind me when on the road, but probably not to any high lift trucks, say, at a stop light. This is the only pic I have at the moment.

Thanks CO. No doubt about it that Mr. Electricity and I do not get along very well ever since that (those) time (times) he bit me so any furtherance of my education(or lack thereof) is appreciated. I'm not too concerned with the AC part just now (season change and all). Just for starters, I know it needs a compressor (locked up), a pressure switch (wires broken) and of course the unicorn drier for a 77'. I do want to try to keep it as original as I can. But all that aside, the heat should work and there's no heat at the moment via the dash selector/vacuum. No "thunk" from the mode door when engaging the levers. There are no leaks at the heater valve and hot water travels to the heater core. It did have intermittent heat last winter, but would heat for maybe 30 minutes or less and then stop. Since it was a mild winter last year it wasn't so much of a problem, but I'm on it this year. I've checked continuity and ran 12v to each of the magnet valves seperatly and they "clicked" when they should have as well as confirmed power to them. As far as my limited electrical knowledge goes, I know that does not necessarily mean they are good. Is there a better way to confirm their function?

Thanks Cliff, and yes, I have been through that thread and everything else under the dash for the last 3 days. Vacuum is good from the manifold to the reservoir tank and lost just after the vacuum source valve. All the other actuators and lines check out

Hi Folks, I've narrowed down my Heat/AC vacuum problems to the magnet valves on my 77'. Anybody have a working set they want to sell or know where I could find them?

Hope you're hanging tight!

Ditto on Chickenmans' recommendation. Better safe than sorry when it comes to head bolts. The good news is that you probably won't snap any when removing them. Stock head bolts are not re-useable. ARP bolts are, but they are more expensive.