gwri8

So that translates to a 10K us car. No rust is a huge plus and I would check out every inch to be sure. If that is the case, I would consider it. It sounds to be in pretty fair condition but It really depends on how much you will put into it later. New seats, foam and carpet is about 1K plus whatever else is needed in there like headliner, visors, dash condition, console, etc. etc. Paint is directly related to how deep your pockets are. For that amount I would think the engine and engine bay should be clean. My two cents given.

What a difference a primer coat makes. You've come a long way Grasshopper! You've got to be at least a little bit excited. Looking good!

Another legend gone.

I just had this adventure last fall. The end result was slowly using a pry bar between the lip of the head and part of the block where the PCV tube come out. I also used plastic wedges when I started to get separation.

Rubber floor mats saved my carpet and helped me see where mine was leaking.

Depends on how old your hoses are. Both valve and hoses are a PITA with the hoses being the cheapest. But if you replace one you're going to do them all when you're down under. I recently re-fitted the heater hoses on the engine bay side and later wound up with antifreeze on the passenger floor board. I thought that the valve had given up as I had replaced all the hoses within the last 2 years. Turned out that I just needed to replace the interior valve hose clamps. Lucky day for me.

As a general rule of thumb for me and my 77', If a part is hard or impossible to get, it's almost guaranteed that I'm going to need it somewhere, sometime. In this case I've been searching 2 yrs. for a drier because I've wanted to keep the functionality of the factory controls. There are work arounds but they either didn't appeal to me or were too expensive. I think MSA was selling a similar drier for factory fittings at around $300 and it had to be made after the order was placed. Now maybe I can get AC this year after all. Funny how things change. When I had my 71' the first thing I did was to remove the dealer AC and smog stuff for speed reasons. Now, It's more about keeping semi-cool.

280 Factory AC folks, Look what just became available on Amazon https://www.amazon.com/s/ref=nb_sb_noss?url=search-alias%3Daps&field-keywords=Four+Seasons+33286+Filter+Drier

@RHDNISSANDATSUNDUDE = collateral damage. Apologies would be in order IMO.

Only in a car forum can you say things like that……..

That hose is a Gates part #19726. It's made of rubber so make sure you are using heat shields

This gives me a whole nother' avenue to get my vacuum problem laden factory AC/heat to work. I'll be watching fo sho.

Yes, Congratulations! I happy to see it has gone to someone who knows what to do with these beauties.

Pictures would really help. I don't know how those hoses could get twisted unless they have been out before and really screwed up by a previous owner. How did that flap look in the fuel neck?

If you are down there with the valve off to be replaced why not just take out the heater core and have it pressure tested at a rad shop? Might cost you $10 or so. They will dunk it with about 8 pounds of pressure and look for bubbles. That's how they did mine anyway. It would give you some piece mind at least. Car show folks aren't that picky in my experience. The folks you wind up talking to are the ones that really like your car.

That's less than I thought it would be. Hopefully whoever bought it will bring it back in a respectable way.

I don't have those particular mats but I do have these Datsun mats that came with my Z that I don't use very often.

20 years ago I could have. I still have most of mine.

Camera hint: Switch to Manual mode. When making comparison photos of light, a single base exposure is required. So you would set the camera exposure for the first photo and use the same exposure for the second, third, fourth and so on as long as the ambient light is the same. For example, whatever the exposure for the first shot is , it has to be the same for the second comparison shot. Otherwise, when the camera is in automatic mode, it will compensate for the brighter or dimmer light in the comparing photo making them somewhat equal which is not an accurate measurement. When in Manual mode, it locks in the exposure. That's the short version.

Welcome! You've come to the right place for your S30. Without knowing any history of your car, hint hint, I'm assuming it has sat for long long time before you got it. If that is true, the first thing to do is change all your fluids, including any old fuel in the tank. With the EFI I would go ahead and replace every vacuum hose. They will probably be cracked or rotten. Those are pretty easy. Do a complete tune up, cap, rotor, plugs and fuel filter. Get all the basic stuff done so you can zero in on whatever ailment is happening. Also, download the FSM for your 76 here http://www.classiczcars.com/files/ and get the EFI Bible also. Very valuable tools that will help you understand the Z. The great folks here that are going to help you are going to refer to these often and I suggest you at least be familiar. The more accurate your description of the problem, The more accurate the replies will be. Good Luck!

For future reference, get a tripod.

I almost always choose warm white. It's closer to a regular tungsten filament bulb like the originals. The cool white has a definite blueish tint and is nice if you like it but I find it harder to distinguish things like color and clarity with that color cast.

RUSSIA!

Since you been sold already….. I'll answer anyway . You'll need 11 if you include the turn signals glove box and bright light indicator. I went with white. I removed the green lens's and painted the interiors white in the three gauges in the center. I left green len's in the speedo and tach but still put in LEDs. I wanted to see the difference between the lights before I committed taking apart the speedo to paint and take the green out. I do like the white better but the green has a little nostalgia to it. I haven't gotten around to finishing the all white dash lights because I apparently use that lazy gene from the bottom of the pool a little too often. I left the turn signals original because I didn't want to change the flasher like Steve mentioned (lazy gene again) and I really didn't see the need to do them also. As far as using the dash light rheostat, I always keep it on bright anyway.

Same 4 bulbs in the speedo and tach as the rest of the gauges. Keep the regular bulbs in the turn signals, otherwise they may not work with the LEDs.