gwri8

From the RIP DeAnna thread….. "Hello all my friends, I'll start by saying that I'm doing the best I can. Life is lonely here tho. Thanks for all your comments. Redbird is now having some problems and I don't know of where to put my request for help. The other night driving home in the dark my speedometer etc. dials were moving from bright to dim constantly. The headlights also were dim. When I got home the back up lights did not come on at all. Easy get around is to not drive at night. But I'm concerned that somewhere in the vast amount of wiring, something may decide to catch on fire. Not a problem for the moment, my wallet with all important things has disappeared. I last saw it in my purse at church, drove right home, and it is not there now. I did not stop anywhere, no way I could have left it anywhere. Sooo, dear RedBird is going nowhere while I am without a drivers license. No chances!" I went by Jai's to check on Red Bird today. We swapped out her non working tachometer with another that had an unknown history. The new tach didn't work either so that problem is likely caused by something else. As far as the Alternator is concerned with the car sitting at idle, the dash voltmeter reads 14-15. With increased rpm's the voltmeter dances/floats between 13-16. With my Innova 3320 multimeter on the battery with the car off it read 12.95 Engine on 14.2-14.6 With engine and headlights on 13.24 I've never done a voltage drop test before and I tried it on Redbird. With the black to the Battery Neg and the Red to the Alt case at around 1500rpm it read -18 to -22 on my meter. It would not stay still. On the positive side with red to red on the battery and the black to the b+ post on the Alt it read .1 to .4 I did find a loose battery to body ground that was semi loose and cleaned and tightened that. Cleaned the Alternator connections with DeOxit and re-attached with dielectric grease. Checked an retightened the fan belt. Restarted the car and the dash voltmeter read the same as before. Any suggestions from electrical guys for the Tach? And is it time for a new Alternator?

Yup, nothing like exhaust fumes from a 70"s car for that modern house smell… I have a garage under my master bedroom where my Z lives. My wife can smell anything i do to that car, and i mean anything……. I just signed up with Hagerty. Valued @ 15K, $265 for the year. Less that half what State Farm was charging for Liability only when I was re-building.

So you took SteveJ's advice? How many stitches?

I just got this post from 240z 260z 280z lovers on FB. This could be interesting if S30 parts are included. https://www.carthrottle.com/post/nissan-is-restarting-official-production-of-skyline-spares/

If Jim doesn't, I think I do. I would have to check also.

You will have fender liners in the front won't you? what color are they? I like my wheel wells black. I'm just old school that way.

Out of curiosity I measured an extra heat shield I have, It comes to 7.5"W X 22.5" L. Just for future reference in case you ever get spare time on your hands.

Look's like you're got a great base to start off from. That lift is sure to come in handy. Add another vote for SEM. I did mine in the ginger color. Had it custom mixed and put into rattle cans at the paint supplier. The interior panels (not the vinyl) needed a water based paint and had to be cleaned/degreased first, then sprayed with an SEM product called Sand Free. Then apply the paint immediately after. It has held up well.

Steve, would it be possible to retro fit a 280 heat shield? Just curious.

My 77' with original rad (I think) didn't have a draincock. I took it to a rad shop and had one installed along with a good flush. Then I finished it out with black paint and a coat of clear. Having to pull the lower hose was never a fun job.

Can't you just slip one of these in the fuel tank?

Yep, looks like a 59'.. wow, haven't seen one of those in a long time. Talk to your instructor and try to do this to it.

Is that a Chevy Biscayne I see? My dad had one of those when I was very little. I remember those fins!

I rescind the ebay link, My mistake only because it is from California Datsun, I wasn't paying attention to the seller. Many people have a very strong opinion about doing business there. Personally, I've never bought from that guy but I heard from a few that have. Keep looking though, they're out there.

Try a little harder, google is your friend. https://www.ebay.com/p/?iid=152503036895&lpid=82&&&ul_noapp=true&chn=ps http://www.thezstore.com/page/TZS/PROD/16-7124

I agree that the switch is probably added on by a previous owner. It's not an uncommon thing to happen. You will have to trace the wire from the switch to wherever it ends up. There are some really good electrical guys on here, I'm not one of them, that might be able to help you. I'm sure they will chime in soon. Pictures will help a lot.

Honestly, I think 8k is a give away price these days for a Z in this condition. With no or minimal rust I would expect it to go for 11-15K fairly easy. My two cents.

Wish this was available when I was looking. Shouldn't take long to sell and It will be a great car for whomever gets it.

"Long may you run" Neil Young.

I'm not a carb guy so my opinion may be worthless, but isn't just owning/rebuilding these cars just for shits and giggles? Like any habit , cost is proportional to giggles IMO.

Stumbled over this today. This should help enable any Z owner. http://www.cheatsheet.com/automobiles/the-datsun-240z-one-of-the-greatest-sports-cars-ever-made.html/?ref=YF&yptr=yahoo

Speed fix. http://www.ebay.com/itm/DATSUN-280Z-DASH-WIRING-HARNESS-Very-Nice-/272413833775?fits=Year%3A1976|Model%3A280Z&hash=item3f6d213a2f:g:K8gAAOSw6n5Xp9oX&vxp=mtr Even if you don't buy, maybe the pictures of the connectors may help. 2 Questions: How is that red toggle wired to your turn signal and hazard? and I see a choke indicator where the fasten seat belt indicator should be. Do you still have fuel injection or has it been switched to carbs also?