gwri8

If it calls for a 10 amp, DO NOT put 20 amp in it's place!. You could easily fry your wiring harness doing that. You must have a short somewhere. Trace the line and for the radio and find the problem. Don't play the radio until you figure it out. I saw the picture of the fine mess your PO left you. Take your time and try to get it all straight. This is also a good challenge for you and your instructor.

Rock Auto still carries FI and TPS connectors.

Do you see any obvious fuel leaks around the injectors or fuel rail? There are a lot of small clamps there and one or two can easily be overlooked and be not tight enough when putting it all back together. I found a couple of loose ones after I had serviced that on my 77'. If you put a fuel pressure gauge between the charcoal canister and fuel intake line it will give you ready information as to EFI questions. Also, I don't see a heat shield under the manifold. That makes is harder to visually see a leak in that area.

Obviously it's a storm trooper special. I was probably in the background in Episode? Veeeeery rare.

As you might have guessed, pictures can help a lot by showing things not mentioned. Is there any way of you can show your engine and the work you have done so far? Could provide obvious/not so obvious clues.

You have now passed your first Z initiation test! There will be more and it will be ongoing just as it is for the rest of us (except Blue). Ignorance can be cured, maybe not in my case, but that's why I'm here anyway…to help me keep mine on the road. How do your headlights and gauges work now?

These? http://www.thezstore.com/page/TZS/PROD/classic03a14/34-2235 Not really sure what you are looking for, picture or part # maybe?

Looks good!

Well Steve, If you reaaally don't want it, you can come put it in my driveway…….

I considered pulling mine also when I wanted to clean the engine bay. The cons outweighed the pros in my case except for the radiator, I did pull that and have it flushed, then I repainted it. I wound up doing one side at a time, unbolting everything and taping some hoses that couldn't get out of the way. Cleaned, degreased then repainted with colored matched enamel from the Automotive paint store as I went. Re-attached it all and was done (one side at a time, including the firewall. It was a little time consuming but I didn't have to remove the hood and wrestle anything else. If you are not painting, It should be even easier. That is also a good time repaint the block if you desire and steel wool the copper A/C lines when you are there. Before and after shots.

Maaybe this is what they meant?

I assume you've disconnected the AFM and linkage. You can see the 4 on the top. The Intake is also connected on the bottom with the exhaust manifold by 4 heavy washers and nuts that overlap the exhaust and intake together. If you remove the heat shield first you will see them and be able to access them better. Be prepared, they are held on by studs that will probably be rusty and often snap off. Maybe you will get lucky and be able to loosen the nuts enough to remove the intake without removing the exhaust. Also, the intake and exhaust use the same gasket. You might have to replace it which means pulling the exhaust also. A lot will depend whether or not any sealant was used on it before.

I haven't received it.

Sorry, I had to run off and be responsible and stuff. I'll pm you

Actually, I have one that I just restored. Unfortunately Like Mark has mentioned before, shipping from GA to Alberta would not be pretty.

I've never watched a BAT auction before, so I tuned in about the time it was to end. It started from the original 20K in $500 up bids. When the auction was supposed to be over a timer of 2 minutes would start with each new bid . It didn't end until there was no counter bid within the 2 minute timer well after the official end time. I know real person auctions go until there are no more bids but I'm not familiar with online bidding other than ebay with a set end time. Is that common with bigger ticket items like cars to extend the auction time?

Bidding war! Sold at 36K, dings and all!

Still at 20K with 1.5hrs left.

Here's your solution, Get the correct part #'s from the Courtesy Nissan link. Call your local Nissan dealer to order them. They should have them the next day. Install them in the correct locations. I'll bet your headlights might work. Regular wire is not a good choice for that application. You will have done the work yourself……with the proper parts. Otherwise, make sure your insurance covers fire……….

MMMMMMM….. the fresh scent of paint (even though it's primer). Gettin' Closer!

Autozone is not going to carry fusible links. Neither is ORielly's. Go ahead and order the correct parts from one of the links that was given to you. (2) brown(or red), (1) black, (1) green and (2) covers.. They are cheap enough to carry spares in your glove box. The gauge you pictured is your voltmeter and fuel gauge. Check to be sure you have gas. Edit to say you are posting reference pics for a 75'. Remember yours is a 76'. It makes a Huge difference when referencing some specific parts, fusible links being one of them.

Well, If your "parts warehouse" is out of stock I just happen to have said parts from a 77' that I'm willing to let go. The faceplate has a crack but I believe it to be repairable. The lens is in good shape. I can send you a pic later if you want to see. I'm leaving for a Scout meeting soon and there are couple of big storms starting to come through.

Starting to smell like 30 - 35K might be possible. Grannyknot's 40k top could be the winner!

Is that a wrench? Or are you just happy to see me?