gwri8

I'll just put this here for the 280Z folks, These are perfect replacements for the 77/78 years. These don't self destruct when you pull them out. Much better that those white ones with teeth that are offered on some of the Z sites. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0040CTVAE/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o09_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Sorry, my imagination took a detour when I read that. "There they were in the garage , sitting all warm an cozy in their satin undies………" Maybe I shouldn't look at the boobs thread anymore…….

Well, looks like you don't have to pull the whole engine now , unless you just want to…… As far as why the HG failed, I have no idea but I do know nothing lasts forever. The head, being aluminum, probably is warped. Mine was and it was never overheated either. I do suggest taking it to a competent machine shop and let them clean and check everything out. With the head and manifolds off you'll be able to get to everything else a lot easier. While my head was being serviced I was able to repaint the block, rebuild/lube the throttle linkage, and clean everything in general. Also cleaned all the carbon off the top of the pistons. Pretty! There are two seals at the end of the speedo cable where it connects the pinion gear. Both are on this MSA page. http://www.thezstore.com/page/TZS/CTGY/classic22c09 Not too hard to replace. I did have to dig out the smallest seal on my though. I believe @Siteunseen found some replacements at Home Depot? Maybe he can verify? Let the fun begin!

Like the others, I've always pulled the console just to make it easier for installation. I don't like the idea of the shifter jabbing holes in the inner rubber boot or the outer pleather boot upon re-install. It's one thing less to be careful of. The only part I don't like about removing the console is taking out the stereo. Just a PITA to me.

Here's an option I've considered before…...

Not trying to be condescending here. There's are a lot of great/experienced/knowledgeable and (mostly) "adult like" people on this forum. Along with that, I would guess a pretty wide age range also. They take Z's seriously. So It really helps to be specific when questions are asked. That way, we can specifically answer them. Pictures can tell more of the story and provide pieces to a puzzle, like a photo of your engine bay could tell us tons of info to begin with without having to ask if it's turbo, v6, inline 6, or even steroid enhanced hamsters. FB has a few Z pages where people talk all kinds of stuff from coilovers to LS swaps and maybe that's what you're looking for. But it's really hard to get good, reliable information and suggestions there. It's also really easy to get a load of BS info from folks who don't know what they are talking about. This is the good stuff here. Also, spell check really helps guys like me. Your ZX looks very nice by the way.

Arrrrgh! Well, you called it in another thread about your head gasket. Now with the oil pan and front seal, you're probably right about pulling it. If you have the wherewithal and tools It will be much easier to work on that way (especially the timing chain). All that head gasket stuff (gaskets, bolt, studs) adds up pretty quick cost wise and it's not a quick job either.

I can fully understand. I can't even Braze.

Actually, I was serious. There are tons of options with the Z. Performance, Suspension,body or any combination of the basic elements. Full Blown race car to bone stock or even engine swaps. The first thing you have to consider is How much do you want to Spend? How much work are you capable of doing? IMO the Z has to be one of the most modified/molested sports cars in history. It's getting harder to find one that hasn't been altered in some way. Just do a google image search. There are quite a few different web sites catering to the Z community, this one of course, Hybrid Z, Ratsun, Rotsun, Zdriver just to name a few. Even some that just cater to the ZX like yours. Look at all of them and get some Idea as to what you are looking for and get ready to spend some cash.

Drive it, enjoy the feeling. Learn how to just nod when folks say "NIce Porsche" or " Is that a Jaguar?".

Some links: http://www.thezstore.com/page/TZS/PROD/classic19o/15-8083 http://www.zcarsource.com/exhaust-manifold-parts-240z-260z-280z-280zx-300zx_8_77826.html http://datsunspirit.com/shop/intake-exhaust-studs/ https://zcardepot.com/engine/exhaust/exhaust-manifold-stainless-steel-stud-kit-240z-280z.html Some people prefer stainless steel, Some people like the copper nuts, Other people just like the regular OEM parts. Point is, They all work I personally got my exhaust studs from Datsun Spirt and have not had any problems with them. Good Luck.

My first "big" project on mine was the front seal. The PO said it was using about a qt of oil every 700 or so miles. Turns out it was all going out the front seal. It….was….everywhere, including all down the oil pan. Might be part of your issue? It took 2 cans of engine degreaser and a roll of shop towels to get most of it. And In case you didn't know, engine degreaser kills grass and dirt for a long, long time. So be careful with that. Personal experience speaking here. Now you get to pull the radiator and fan also, which is not to terrible. If it is leaking bad up there, be sure to check your crank for wear. Sometimes it gets a groove in it from the previous seal. You might have to put a sleeve on it. O'Reillys carries that part if you need it.

Looks like you've got 30 days to return. I'd Send it back in a heartbeat, especially if you used paypal.

Actually, a ratchet wrench might work in that spot. Home Depot (Husky brand) has some slim ones. On mine there is actually a philips bolt in one of those spots. It made easy access for that one only. As for torque, "use the force Luke". When you torque the others, just remember how far on average you go past snug and that should be pretty close. Enough for an oil pan anyway. 2 cents coming at cha'.

Mark, you're making this all look too easy. Excellent work!

I paid to have mine done last year along with a rear seal. I do recall laying under the Z thinking "Now, how am I going to do this?". I had one of those moments when it occurred to me that I had stretched my learning cure a little too far. So I punted….. I'll be following this thread.

All looks good to me. Safe travels.

I've been looking for one of these for a while now for my 77' and got a little excited when I saw this post Chickenman. I just called them to verify and unfortunately it is a discontinued part and will not be re-stocked. The sales guy said they need to update their website. Oh well, the search continues. Thanks for keeping us in mind.

Found the material I mentioned earlier. I've never used it so I can't vouch for any of them, but I see them used a lot on new car transports. I guess price would be my first criteria, but I'm pretty cheap. There is probably a picture of me in the dictionary somewhere under that word. http://www.transportwrap.com http://www.mastershieldprotection.com/xport/ https://www.fellers.com/fellers-shopping/cat/special-use-vinyls/sub/paint-protection/set/auto-wrap-shipping-protection-film This is thicker stuff (6mil) http://www.wholesalemarine.com/shrink-wrap-film-6-mil-14-x-150-79172.html

Cliff had success loading his Z onto a open trailer. As far as a car cover I don't know that I would suggest that. You're right in thinking the wind pushing on a cover could act as a abrasive on the paint. I've seen car haulers use a stick on material before but I don't know where to get it. It usually goes on the front hood, fenders and windshield. Another plan would be to rent a big enough covered truck to haul. Just strap down on the wheels.

Just to finish off this thread, I wound up using ksechler's suggestion and used compression unions. The reason being that I will use a phosphoric acid wash to prep for POR 15 tank sealer and I don't think rubber and clamps would hold up long term. For the curious, the bottom return line is a 5/16". The top feed line is a definite 10mm, not a quick and easy find for a compression union.

I did the same as Jim with no thickness or texture change. RIT has been around a very long time. Glad you way worked also. It's always good to have an alternate method.

Funny, I always thought the Z was more for the "Bad Boy" image, you know, the kind that some girls go for, not the "Bad Guy" with the black hat. Also it's obvious that it's a Fairlady with 280 and 240 turn signals. You know whoever that is can't be trusted. Just sayin……..

I feel you on that one! At least you still have parts of the floor still visible . I won't bring a camera into my shop for a while yet for fear of being judged .

Yep, a paramedic plus a chiropractor, physical therapist and maybe a neurosurgeon as well. A psychiatrist to help figure out they were thinking my also be necessary.