gwri8

As mentioned before, a dash cap can solve the paint and the crack problems. They are not very expensive and probably the easiest thing to do. If you want to continue the restoration and wanted to restore the dash, now would be the time to do it. There is some really good information and threads here on how to do that. The dash is not too difficult to remove. Probably the cheapest and safest remedy would be to just remove the dash, clean it and repaint it. Same as restoring except that you are skipping crack repair. The final step in restoring a dash is repainting anyway. I used SEM TRIM BLACK with excellent results.

Years ago I jammed my middle finger on my left hand while playing a softball game and could not bend it. I drove a 4spd and after the game going to meet the rest of the team for beer in Atlanta on Peachtree St. that's all the oncoming traffic could see… my middle finger (had to shift with my right hand). The favor was returned at least three times for every mile I drove.

Smart woman, this is what what happens when you photograph vegetables…..

Decent cars at decent prices go very fast these days. Especially on places like CL. When I was looking I would see a Z on CL and send an email or text. Almost every time it was already sold or they never responded. The one I have now, When I called I was told it was sold and someone was coming to pick it up. I mentioned that if the deal fell through to give me a call. Well, The deal fell through and the guy actually called me back the next week. I hightailed it two hrs. away from me and looked it over (winced a little bit when I saw the floor pans), negotiated the price and bought it. The point is, while emailing and texting are great and all, They are too slow. When possible, voice calling gives gives an edge in my book. My advice, file it accordingly….

EGR Valve http://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=939466&cc=1209248&jsn=334 or I think I have a used one. PM me if interested.

Nashville is very doable for me! Steve and Cliff plus anyone else, we got us a Convoy!

Just judging from the amount of time/effort he's put into it so far I'll bet that he was just like you when he started the project and soon discovered how much more work was involved and the project went underwater quickly. Not only would you have to repair the stuff in the photos (plus more unseen stuff), I'm thinking you will probably have to re-do everything he has done also. When I hear fiberglass, that means holes. My preference would be holes replaced with new panels or at least metal patches when possible. Plus, I would really have to love those flares to try to save them, more work. In my opinion 2K is too much for this particular Z. I think you can find one for a little more money (maybe the same) that requires a lot less work if you keep looking. If you are local to the car, I would at least go put my eyes on it and make a cash offer then. Just not anything near 2K.

I think I hear a whip crackin'……...

It's hard to know your missing something when it's not there to begin with. Been there many times. Unfortunately I do not know of a fix for that sleeve. Maybe somebody here does and they will chime in. Until then, I know of two places for that part. Not outrageously expensive but not exceptionally cheap either. Zcar Source for new or used http://www.zcarsource.com/content/p/8/stype/product/?searchVar=door+striker and Z car Depot https://zcardepot.com/interior/door-parts/door-striker-latch-oem-77-78.html.

I agree with Chuck and from what I've read, you adjust to the body first because you can always adjust the fender after, not the other way around. It's a real plus if you can get someone to help. These doors can be kinda bulky and heavy. I did mine by myself and it can became quite the chore if you don't the adjustment right the first time. As always, I learn the hard way…………...

Before you start bending rods, can you post a picture of the door striker? If there is bounce back It could mean the door striker is a little out of adjustment. You need to visually line it up to the latch for the vertical alignment then do the horizontal, mine was almost to the back corner. Also,There is a plastic sleeve over the striker post that sometimes wears out and the latch can make a rattle sound if it is worn off. Here is a shot of my old striker that I just replaced. You can see some wear but It worked fine, I just changed it to look better (second picture). If you haven't done so already, you can download the FSM for you car here.

Funny, I just finished removing and adjusting both doors on mine. While I was doing this I replaced both of the door locks, While doing that I noticed that the passenger handle was a little wonky. Turned out he handle was a little loose. I recommend removing the door panel and inspecting/tightening/adjusting everything there including the catch on the frame. It's all very simple, but it helps to have slender hands, which I don't. As to the latches, I didn't catch the year of your car. The 70-76 have different Striker latches/catches than the 77-78 280. The early Z's also have a dovetail that the 77-78 do not have. Either way, those parts are still available if yours turns out to be worn.

Wow, nobody likes to see that happen. Consider yourself lucky that explorer didn't go over you and your Z. Good to know that you are still here!

I gots to know! I'm thinking of doing this as my wipers are very lethargic.

Just curious, did this just start happening when you sealed the air intake chimney under the cowl? Was there nothing attached to that like a blower or something? If so, what would happen if you unsealed that vent? Just seeing what sticks. My 77' came with a very long tailpipe to get past the huge bumper. I have no bumper at the moment and a very short tailpipe. No fumes. But I do have all new gaskets in the rear…..

The one pictured doesn't appear to the in too bad of shape. Mine were stripped and one actually crumbled in my fingers. I've wondered how hard it would be to replicate of fabricate these? I suppose making a mould of a good one would be the place to start but I have no experience in that area. It's all plastic that is somewhat flexible. Here is a shot that shows a little more definition.

That white attachment piece is a bit of a unicorn to find. I happened to find a guy parting out a Z on Datsun Parts and Needs (FB) when I was looking for parts and specifically asked about them. That was a lucky day. Good luck! Here is the replacement chrome piece if you need that. http://www.thezstore.com/page/TZS/PROD/classic08h04/40-2009

I'm glad you didn't see mine when I got it! I thought the original color was copper instead of green!

I've still got mine CO. I know I've got both rear shocks and maybe one front from a parts car. Rear rubber yes, Front rubber no. I've been crazy busy lately and I'm sure they are somewhere in my shop so I'll try to dig them out this week. PM me and we can work out the details.

I refer to most of my tools with the chinese name when they are missing, which is usually when I'm using them and just set it down for just a minute. I swear my garage has a ghost who messes with me!

I've asked for this tool so many times!

I just ran a quart of Marvel Mystery Oil in with my last oil change for that very reason. When I adjusted the valves after that everything looked good, at least on the top end.

Lucky me, I got to re-tile a shower today. Did get to drive the Z yesterday a little though!

The link was just an example. If it is a valid part # and still available, your nissan dealer will be able to order it and not charge you for shipping. Worth a phone call.

If can verify your part # try calling a Nissan Dealer. Still quite a few parts available from there. The part #'s you listed are in stock here on this site http://www.nissanpartsdeal.com , Pretty cheap for a factory part IMO.