gwri8

I've wondered about this even though I currently have no desire for a rear bumper. I actually like the holes in a 280 rear valence but this was the only new valence available. As you can see in the pic, the bumper mount indents don't line up with the screw holes on my 77'. You can see part of a screw hole on the far right side. But I suppose there is a way to firmly mount the brackets to support a 240 style bumper if it does not weigh too much.

This is a rear valence I got form Charlie. Took a little shaping to get the bend right but otherwise a good thick steel. Thicker than the original.

I love hearing Great News and this is Great News! I'm glad your burden has been lifted.

I had mine painted last fall. Before it went to the painter, I stripped it with Airplane Stripper (that's the brand name, not for stripping airplanes) just so I could see where the rust was and take care of that first, and to get a better price/estimate. Also, remove all your badges and lights before just so accidents don't happen. You do not want them to just putty over any rust spots. Otherwise, just throw your money out the window.

Not exactly the same problem you are having but When I brought my Z home (actually drove it) I knew it had problems with fuel delivery. Would idle kind of OK, would run not so OK. I made it anyway. Had a long list of priorities on the car and tried new fuel filters and simple stuff trying to get lucky but never could define the problem exactly because I was working on several different things at one time. Finally came to the conclusion that I needed to just remove the entire EFI system, clean and inspect it and replace the Fuel Injectors. It was old enough and I knew eventually I was going to do that anyway. Turned out the the PO never did any of that stuff and Fuel Injectors were the main problem. 3 were different from the other 3. In fact the #1,2 and 3 injectors were rusted in place, probably why they were different. I felt like a surgeon trying to remove the rusted bolts. Dremel tool, pliers and my special language got involved. My point is, Run a good FI cleaner in it and Consider taking a day and just going through the entire EFI system and refreshing it, replacing all the fuel hoses and vac lines. It's not hard to wind up chasing your tail when working on an old EFI system. Eliminate the variables and simple stuff that is going to need replacing anyway.

"I'm so excited and I just can't hide itI'm about to lose control and I think I like itI'm so excited and I just can't hide itAnd I know, I know, I know, I know, I know …"

I really couldn't tell, but is the body pretty straight? From that angle it doesn't look too bad. You mentioned some front end damage earlier, is it just the front valence? Those parts are fairly easy to find. If you know how to weld you will save a ton of cash on those floor pans and rails as well as anything else that is there. I would suggest that you start making a list as you run across things that need attention. Leave room to add things that you discover along the way. Then you can prioritize as need be. We all know that one thing touches or relies on another with these cars and it can sometimes become quite confusing. I find it's a better way to enjoy the build.

Adapt, Improvise and overcome on full display.

Those vac lines affect your ac and EFI as well. I just experienced it. Also, there is an excellent write-up on rebuilding the Vacuum Valve also. Pretty easy thing to do while everything is out.

If it's not too late, be sure to replace all the vac lines under the dash and inspect the heater core. It'll save you some backache later if your heat goes out.

Very nice indeed! I kinda wished mine looked that good when I bought it. Welcome! psst…. you will never finish this car either . nobody does.

Off the top of my head, heater valve, fuel sender, gas tank are not cheap for a 77/78'. They are still available though. But it is usually the odd part that you need the most that is hardest to find and the most expensive. That is true for any car.

Yes, true….but that is why we love them. My interior was shot, bad paint, missing passenger floor pan and rail, rust holes in all the usual places, no front bumper and evidence of questionable attempts at various failed repairs. Some folks would have called it a POS, I saw it as fertilizer for my soul.

I would do everything that was suggested in that thread. It might sill be savable. Is there impact damage to the body?

I would do everything that was suggested in that thread. Maybe it's still savable.

Welcome to the Forum. There is a ton of great information here along with some great folks. Before you go further, One thread I suggest you read is Great suggestions from Carl Beck on how to bring the engine back to life. I'm guessing your car is EFI so the carb stuff may not apply, but the fuel stuff and the rest will. Good Luck and keep us posted.

Almost Feb and finally got the heat sorted out. Chasing vac lines on a 77' boggles my simple mind, but Toasty heat with great defrost action was worth it!

My 01/77' had this before it was replaced so I thinking the change occurred at the beginning of 77' production.

My 1/77 has the sloped deck with the space saver tire and the can of compressed air. I have a 6/77 parts car that has the flat deck and the space saver tire.

Always room for another 77' brother/sister in the group. What is the build date, early or late? And of course, Welcome!

Welcome to the conversation Steve. Join right in and share some of your experiences and pictures.

Lot's of great info here from knowledgeable and nice folks. Welcome to the party!

+1 on what siteunseen said and welcome to the group. What part of GA?

I think a urethane would do nicely with that scheme…...

Is this what you are referring to for lower radiator support. 77'280Z