gwri8

Always room for another 77' brother/sister in the group. What is the build date, early or late? And of course, Welcome!

Welcome to the conversation Steve. Join right in and share some of your experiences and pictures.

Lot's of great info here from knowledgeable and nice folks. Welcome to the party!

+1 on what siteunseen said and welcome to the group. What part of GA?

I think a urethane would do nicely with that scheme…...

Is this what you are referring to for lower radiator support. 77'280Z

New motto for Z owners…..Spank Me, I've been Naughty……...

The bore doesn't look too bad. It was gunky and dirty but I really can't see any pitting. I'm just going to clean and maybe lightly run a Dremel with a wire brush in it. I did wire brush the outside already. That aluminum shines up bright!

Thanks Folks, the heat worked.

I think you're going to need a shovel for Christmas……plus, I think males are more easy going than females, just my experience. Now you have a riding buddy when driving your Z's!

This is the piece I am referring to. You are probably right about corrosion. Seems like I could just probably hook and pull it out. According to this drawing it is more like a fitting. I was thinking that it was attached to the shuttle on the end.

The brake light being on has been a nuisance ever sine I bought my 77". I Replaced the master cylinder and relay under the front seat last spring and the light went away They were both bad. After getting the car back from welding this summer, there it was again. So now I'm going to go through the rest of the system. Pads, shoes, wheel cylinders(leaking) done. I just replaced the brake booster and found this thread. I've already disassembled and cleaned the Brake Proportioning Valve as per Chas's great photos. Now I'm working on the Brake Switch Valve. The question I have is how to remove the shuttle? The switch itself is out but the shuttle does not move. Is it supposed to slide out by itself or is it attached to the end in some way? I've tried tapping the housing on the workbench hoping it would slip out with no luck. There is probably a better way and as usual I have to go the long way around to figure it out. Better to ask before I go Neanderthal on a part that is hard to get.

The correct spellin fo that sayin is usetacould. ya'll

I went to bare metal on mine just because I need to see what needed to be replaced. I knew it had at least one repaint on it and fiberglass and bondo work on the rockers, doglegs, wheel arches. Glad I did, there were holes covered with fiberglass where my doglegs used to be and holes covered with bondo in the arches. Also, the roof had been peeling with surface rust underneath. It gave me the chance to take care of any little bit of rust I came across. Replaced the holes with solid metal and now I sleep a little better knowing it. I personally think going to bare metal gives it a little cleaner finished look. Maybe it's just me but I think the lines look a little crisper and more defined with the extra paint gone.

Charles, I've seen that lighter color before when I stripped mine to bare metal. I believe it is a primer for the body.

There are Two screws on the Tach Jai. The one you can see in the front and one underneath the dash. you would have to lay down on the floor board to see the one underneath. It's not that hard, but it is awkward for sure.

I re-did my 280 wheel last year, If you are on a budget, It was done for about $20. Before and after shots

Just give me a shout if it doesn't work out. I have acquired one since you first posted.

All Hail the Spindle! Also, did you ever get your ECU cover?

I used stock 240 brackets for the front bumper. I had to re-bend them to shape, but it's not too difficult if you have a vise. You can eyeball it and adjust from there. They bolted right to the frame in existing holes on my 77'. You could make your own it you wish with some steel bars with the right gauge and big drill bit. I have not done the rear bumper yet, still not sure I want one. Do a search, there is quite a bit of info about how to attach 240 bumpers to 280's.

SteveJ humbled me when we had a similar problem with redwing. I had pulled the distributor and when I had replaced it, it was 180 degrees out. Something very simple to check.

I'm not worried about locks myself. I have 4 dogs, shotguns, etc.... If none of those work, meet my wife after I show her the Z receipts. (just kidding)

I'm glad you're laughing, I think I created a new language when mine were stuck…. I resorted to a drift bolt and Thor's hammer.

Great job on the sending unit! Impressive save. I would have punted at the first sight.

Found this link from Facebook Datsun parts and needs. Thought I should post this here also for some reference shots. This guy has collected about 200 engine photos. https://photos.google.com/share/AF1QipOOstuMLWQ-T-nfkSMbw1tvyAboqyIZEECGlrSo1O7NPbcNEB-Of7X1-LCM-BVavA?key=VXlBaFpISGZBcTl1T1lTcVVuUEVwbWRwMkJPekdn