gwri8

Yes, very hard to locate one. If your are lucky maybe there is one in a Junkyard somewhere. Otherwise Arizona Z has some rebuilt ones http://www.zcarsource.com/gas-tank-sending-unit-240z-260z-280z_8_55266.html but not cheap.

Sure I would let her drive it…... on occasion, I let my 18 yr old son drive it….. on occasion, But with the simple fact that she HATES my Z, I don't think that is going to be a near future scenario . Her loss, I might add. She's going to get something with air bags for at least the 1st year of driving.

If you are just talking about safety, In your parents eyes it all boils down to air bags vs no air bags. Guess which one wins. I do have to agree on that point. No matter what driving skills you have, It will always be the other guy that's going to do something stupid. In a car that small, think again which one will win. I think about that every time I get into mine. It's 1977 safe, not 2015 safe. You don't seem to be a "silly kid" so I'm not telling you not to get a Z but you have to realize most everybody that owns one has something else to drive. Do choose something worth driving every day and when it is feasible, get that Z and enjoy every minute of it. And When you do, A coupe would be my personal choice, but I've never driven a 2+2 so my opinion may be considered lopsided (also my daughter is about to turn 16 ).

Installed a 3rd brake light. A little less chance of getting run over.

Name: Datsun 280Z (1977) Date Added: 12 November 2015 - 08:56 PM Owner: gwri8 Short Description: Mostly brought back from the edge. View Vehicle

A weld will always be more permanent and if you have the skills, then complete rust removal is preferred. What I've done on small unnoticeable places is after grinding/removing any loose material I would then neutralize the area with something like Mar-Hyde One Step. Then fill any small areas with POR 15 patch. I don't know about longevity though. time will tell.

Yep, I would be a little leery of those blocks myself. I do love a new build though, keep the pics coming!

Schwing!

Sun squeaked out for a short while today, so I went and reshot a few,

Picked up the Z from paint a week ago and finally got it all back together, badges, interior, bumper, etc. I've been wanting to photograph it before the fall rainy season starts in GA. I had great plans while the leaves are turning. But alas, it's rained just about every day since and when it's not raining it is overcast. I think I'm in Seattle. The 240 Racing Green demands a sunny day to show the metal flake. Otherwise, on an overcast day, it's just……….green. So today, I looked at the forecast, more rain/overcast for a least a week. So I just went out anyway, without any lights, and just shot a few. Maybe I'll get a bright sunny day soon, otherwise I'll jus have to wait till spring.

I have never used the potentiometer trick so I'm not sure, but Siteunseen, Fastwoman and others on the site have used it with success to compensate for aging ECU's. What was referred to as a redneck tuneup or a Italian tuneup, sure, blowing out the carbon every once in a while won't hurt.

According to the FSM and the previous plugs: The gap should be 0.7 to 0.8mm (0.028 to0.031 in)

Had a little spare time today and I made it over to Jai's to have a quick look/see as to the current issue. I also brought along a new set of plugs. Here is list of what happend. 1)Visually examined the head and saw no visible cracks, leaks or obvious problems , Did not do a compression test, I did not have the time or the equipment. 2) Checked the radiator and it had plenty of coolant, again, no visible problems. plenty of oil also. 3) Removed the old plugs and made a proper, albeit iphone photo to judge by. #6 on the left to #1 on the right They are just blackened and can be easily cleaned, but I replaced them anyway. Set the gap to about .38 4) Jai and I then warmed up the car for about 20 min. It started up easily and idled very well, just as Tim had set it previously. No smoke. I felt confident enough that we then took it for a little "spirited" drive, about a mile or so. I was driving so I pushed it a little, upwards to 4k rpm. It accelerated well with no stumbles or hiccups. However, when shifting at higher rpms there would be a little backfire between shifts. No smoke though. When decelerating in gear at her higher rpms the backfires were more pronounced, one very loud. I saw some smoke in the mirror, seemed to be grey. pulled over. The car idled fine. smoke was gone. Drove it back to the house and ran it a little harder. This time, intermittent smoke, not constant, with acceleration and deceleration. It ceased by the time we made it back. Pulled it under it's shed, still idling fine with no stumbles. Popped the hood and reved it to about 5k a couple of times. There was some smoke, lighter in color but it more like heavy exhaust from an old Z, not a cloud at all. Visibly checked the engine and head again, nothing obvious. 5) Removed the new plugs to reset the gap to about .34. I didn't have time to make a photo so I will describe them from what memory I have. Jai wrote it down as I pulled them, maybe she can correct me. #6 was black. dry #5 was a little less black, dry #4 was blackened and wet #3 same as 4 #2 I think was a little wet #1 was black and I think dry 6) Time was up and I had to leave. It probably is running rich. That being said. IMO, I want to think that the problems she had before are not related to this one. The car runs much better, especially after the new AFM. I also want to think that maybe she got a bad tank of gas? That hasn't happened to me in quite a while but I do remember the symptoms being the same. I do think the car is driveable, only locally, until she runs that tank out and/or uses the products SteveJ mentioned to help remove whatever else is in there.

Are you sure that was fuel, It looked closer to Espresso. Maybe that is why the car fired up?

Koni's and Mulholland were the big struts to have in the 70's, Koni's were so stiff I think you could feel cigarette butts in the street, Muholland's were a tad softer. combined with a set of Mulholland springs, you could turn on a dime and get change. That being said, I don't know anything about them today but I did find their Web Site http://www.koni.com/us-na-redirect/ I went with the standard KYB's for my suspension. My butt is not as tough as when I was younger……..

I like Ginger, I have Ginger. I'll take Ginger, but I was always a Mary Ann kind of guy.

According to the director in a message to the after show "Talking Dead" he said Glen, or "parts" of Glen, in would be seen in later episodes to continue/complete the story line. He did not confirm alive or dead. Hmmmmmmm I don't know if he is alive or not, but somebody's entrails got stretched out in the last episode. I'm hooked again.

POR 15. Follow the directions to the letter and you won't have to do it over ever again.

You are correct, the valence is welded to the lower rear quarters. The filler is spot welded to the valence underneath. I just replaced my rear valence from here, http://www.datsunzparts.com/products.html. Good product and a great guy to deal with.

I still watching, I'm gonna miss Glen……...

Cliff, my carpet kit part # from MSA was 40-2578 for an early '77. Fit was very good and the jute is thick.

Nuthin' like a fresh interior. Looking good! Couldn't help but notice the two relays under the passenger seat. One is for the brake light, but what is the other one for? My 01/77' only has the brake light relay.

Looks great to me. I wish they had those in Ginger.