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I've been called many things Jai. That's one of the nicer ones .

Let it be known to all in the Kingdom that SteveJ is and was the point man on this adventure. A truly nice guy and a plus to this community. I think he should be considered for Sainthood. He knows his stuff. Tony came quite a ways and did not hesitate to dive right in. Dedicated Z guys they are and good to work with too. I agree, Fastwoman and Blue are both very wise. As everyone here knows, one thing touches another and I believe that to be the case with Redbird. Steve and Tony got to wrestle that tank and it was kind of fun to hear their conversation during the initial removal. I think they both might have been Sailors at one time . And now that I think about it, those small pieces of metal in tank were probably from the original gas cap chain, but who knows? For the record, things that were replaced on the thermostat housing were: temp sender temp sensor and connector thermostat gasket The Thermotime switch was not replaced. I just recently replaced all of mine and it took me 30 minutes to do on my car. On Jai's car that temp sender did not want to leave it's happy home….. Ever!. That was a good part of my day. Just by chance if you've ever wondered what the inside of one of those look like, Steve, Tony and I can tell you. The rest of the under hood work was mostly emission related: -Charcoal canister filter (very clogged) - PCV valve -Vac line from the canister to the 3 way connector to the distributer plus the two short lines from that. On the manifold: -Thermal vacuum valve to to vacuum delay valve hose (the delay valve was not there) -Vac hose to the EGR. EGR had been deleted but the hose to it was plugged, I did the same with a fresh hose. All the vac hoses were dry, split and hard. They did not have a good seal on them. If there was a hose up there, it was replaced. She has an aftermarket A/C and there was no White Vac bottle or lines in the usual route. I did not think to check for those lines. Didn't get to do any of the fuel lines. They looked to be in fair shape. Steve, I think you're right on the fuel injectors being a little gummy. There were a couple of things that bothered me when we left. (1) the white cap on the dash pot was missing. I believe the dashpot has something to do with anti stall? It's one of those mystery components to me. (2) The Idle adjustment screw has no effect at all. One complete turn in either direction made no difference at idle. Anybody have any ideas on that? Timing was not set when we left, As Steve pointed out to me there is no mark on the Harmonic Balancer. Now that Redbird is running better that will be an easy fix and I'm glad to hear Red Bird is on the road again. Jai sat there with us the whole time. What a nice lady. I hope I'm that sharp at 73. Come to think of it, I don't think I'm that sharp now…….I might be in trouble.

Advance Auto carries the CRC 1 tank, I just bought some to try. The bonus was that it's on sale for $12 (normal 17.00). Seems really cheap to me considering the alternatives. If it performs as in Chickenman's experience, no matter the cost, it's still cheaper than new fuel injectors. This is kind of what I've been looking for on my wife's Honda and Son's Celica. I'll do them first before I do the Z. It got new FI's less than a year ago.

Thanks for the offer Charles, but I wound up ordering from Charlie. The first time I was ever able to get through to him! Thanks again.

Since I don't know what you are driving exactly, A daily driver or a series 1show car, it seems to me that since spark plug wires are easily and often required to replace for tune ups and such, that maybe you could get a black and a blue set. Just for driving, use the NGK's and if you want, put the black ones on when you show. Mine is a driver so I am not so much of a purist but I do like to keep it as original as possible and that means a good degree of dependability is important also as well as performance. For Caps and Rotors, I don't think the design has changed since the Z was new. Like Henry Ford said about the model T, "You can have any color you want, as long as it is black".

I think originally the factory one's were black (I am often mistaken, though). Now they come in black, blue, red, yellow and maybe a couple of others depending on the brand. I am not a spark plug wire expert but my personal preference are the NGK wires and they happen to be blue.

Thanks Charles, It just needs to be better than what I have, something that does not require too much welding. Mine is rusted through all along where that lip was riveted plus all along the bottom it was eating through on both sides of the panel. Dents are ok so long as daylight isn't visible.

Put my 77' in for body work today to replace some typical rusted areas and get ready for paint. I had already stripped to bare metal to identify what and if parts needed replacement. One of those areas is the lower rear valence where the bumper spacer (lip) was. Going over it with the body guy he mentioned it would be wiser to replace than to repair the valence (too much labor involved for too many spots). I've found a few places that have that panel (new steel) . MSA and Zcar Source are pricey but the shipping to the east coast really makes it unreasonable. Zedd findings has one but I've never had much success in reaching them. There is another option with a fiberglass replacement. Much cheaper, but I am not familiar with any of those suppliers. Has anyone here had any experience with the fiberglass valences?

In GA, anything older than 1985 is bill of sale, no title needed. When I bought mine with a bill of sale and got tags I specifically asked about getting a title for it. The DMV was not the least bit interested and told me it was not required or worth the effort. As far as selling in the future to someone in another state, that state would honor GA law so far as the title issue.

Any chance Jai could run a bottle of FI cleaner in the meantime? Something like a bottle of Lucas or similar product even at idle couldn't hurt until the 29th.

Well, that makes one more FI car experience than me! I also have an extra FPR, untested though, came out of a junkyard. I'll gather a bunch of whatevers that I think might apply (that includes a cooler with ice). I think Tim might have relatives up near here. Maybe you could put some family pressure on him to come and we could both learn something from a pro! Edit to say: There is a 77' in a junkyard in Jasper. I believe there is a FPR on there, but no AFM. If not to far, you might want to check it out for other stuff you think Jai may need.

Jai, has the car restarted since you got it home? Steve, I got my boy in school and can make it on the the adventure. I have both the sensor and the plug that you mentioned. My Z is getting ready for body work and I do not have an immediate need for them just yet. Did all the fuel lines check out? I might have extra hose also.

Genius always hides in odd places…….

That unit over the brake booster with the vac lines is definitely not on my 1/77 with factory A/C. Can you get a shot of that Whole corner including the Brake and Clutch Master Cylinders?

RockAuto has a Wholesale Closeout listing for parts and some of your wants are on there. This page is for a 77' so you might want to verify the correct parts for you 76'. http://www.rockauto.com/RSS/vehiclefeeds.php?carcode=1209248&m=wc&l=en&html=true But be careful on shipping. They can lead you down the garden path pretty quick when they ship from multiple warehouses. It'a a gamble but sometimes when I add or eliminate items (or even re-add a part) in the cart, it updates with different warehouse shippers each time. Kinda like roulette.

Replaced the inner speedometer pinion seal. What a PITA! Had to dig that %$#@% out with small screwdriver. I think it was original.

I popped mine in with a small flathead screwdriver. In a not too rough fashion, I stuffed in one side of the base fitting and then worked around till it all went in. Should only take a second. Just be careful not to push in so much as to slice the stem.

Yes, welcome to the disease. Looks like you will be doing some serious cleaning just to find out where to begin. My suggestion would be to start a notebook on what needs you come across, then you can get a better idea where to start. It will be easy to get overwhelmed at some point, but don't worry, it can be done! I noticed that it is an early 77 with the slanted rear deck. Just a heads up when it comes to carpet be sure to order specific for early 77. The rear deck section is where it's a special fit.

One of these days I'm going to make it to one of these. Hopefully this fall after I get to the paint stage.

Y'all must have beenBoy Scouts, and I mean that in a good way because I'm involved in Boy Scouts. I've been watching this thread and I actually live about 30 to 40 minutes away from Jai. She mentioned that Steve was going to come up sometime this month and look at her car.I offered to help but unfortunately I'm out of town right now. Steve, when you come back up to help with her car I would love to be there and offer assistance.I have tools and a car ramp but I don't have a fuel pressure gauge. I also have a FPR that was pulled of a junker, but don't know if it's good or not. I could probably fabricate a battery hold down before we go. Just let me know, I would love to help.

You probably already know this, but sometimes a dedicated ebay seller hasn't listed all of their parts yet. I've had some luck by contacting them and asking for specific parts. Especially odd parts like heater doors and such. Here's an example of what I mentioned earlier about 240 scuff plates. http://www.ebay.com/itm/Datsun-240Z-Inner-Scuff-Plates-1970-1973-NEW-/311400687253?hash=item4880ed6695.

If your are talking about the interior scuff plate, I found mine for a 77' on ebay. I see those plates for a 240 all the time there but only on occasion for the later years. I often wondered if the 240 scuff plates would function properly on the later years.

Any photo editing software can reduce your image size easily. For your Icon picture, it needs to be really small. like 128k and low resolution (72dpi and around 2 or 3 inches big) or something like that. It's not to exact. Just has to be small in size. If you don't have that kind of software let me know and I can do it for you.

What SteveJ said. You can also add or change your header image there also.

Very nice work! I had the same issues with my turn signals except that the reflector itself was rotted through at the bottom of one of the socket holes and therefore not stable enough for aluminum tape. Wound up fabricating a new one out of aluminum flashing. Works fine so far.