gwri8

Yes, that one. It's not obvious visually, but it has easy access to it. It lives in a high heat area and can often turn hard and split like your valve cover hose did.

Don't forget to check the PCV valve and hose also. The one under the intake manifold.

I gotta agree with 240260280, this is going to be your favorite car. The sound and the torque are intoxicating, better start doing some neck exercises!

Car design has to evolve to stay relevant in the market place simply because of what people want to buy. But in some cases the original instantly becomes a classic recognizable shape and nothing after that compares favorably. Sports Cars like Mustangs, Cameros, Challengers, Z's, etc, etc are good examples and have all gone through some pretty rough abominations. Mustang and Camero stand out the most for me for some reason. Like @Captain Obvious, I want to say I see the original lines in the later Z models, but really I don't. Kind of like knowing some brothers and/or sisters. You know they're related but they don't look the same (excluding twins of course). I think American manufacturers can play the nostalga/retro design with some success, but I don't that is something the Japanese manufacturers would do, in my opinion.

Nada on the vinyl. I think it's angle of reflectance with the dark background showing in the roof. In all honesty, it's more than likely a fake ad created just for that commercial. Copyright stuff and all. Maybe someone associated with production owns that car and put their dream price on it along with "low miles" as an inside joke? I would have....?

Subliminal advertising in our favor! I want to believe that's a 260 or 75 280. Not that I'm selling, but my asking price just went waaay up! ?

It was a while back when Jai's car Redwing had these similar symptoms, twice, and after checking and following excellent advice from these members it turned out that bad gas (water in fuel) was the problem. I too have recently experienced bad gas after fill up and now I know it's not that uncommon an occurrence. A simple and inexpensive elimination of that possibility would be like Patcon suggested. Instead of draining the tank to check, a bottle of Heet from the auto parts store or a 16oz bottle of 90% Isopropyl Alcohol in the gas tank will disperse any water in there allowing it to burn out. It should't affect any other diagnosis. I'll add that in both of Jai's and my problems, It was the pruchase of Ethanol free gas from pumps at gas stations. Fingers crossed!

Price + I've always been satisified with the quality of parts. https://zcarsource.com/fusible-link-280z-75-78-brown-new-7557

I just ordered a set from Z Car Source. They mentioned that they make them there but the supplies they use come from Japan.

Fairlady is always right hand drive (and a Z) in my book. But it's yours so call it what you please. I call mine very different names at different times, let your imagination toss that around...

I was referring to the 280, mainly because I have no experience with a 370. But I suppose they'll be equally jealous of an older girl so look out for double trouble. ?

Better be careful, the Z might get a little jealous when little red rolls in.... and a ticked off Z can be quite vengeful. ?

Yes, You, Wayne and I pulled the caps and "kind of discussed it" just ever so shortly. I had a red link in the forward position at the time, Wayne wanted me to switch to the dark side and replace the fusible links with something else, plus being in huge parking lot in ATL at at National car show, drizzle, It was about lunch time, probably some gravity warps going on and my recently discovered short attention span was present. ?️ I think we all deserve a pass..... ?

Thanks to everybody in this thread. All of this discussion has solved an ongoing problem for me where I kept slowly toasting the fusible link for the alternator and fuse block (it was brown) whenever the headlights were on and only when the engine was running. It was driving me crazy until CaptO's picture showed up. I had been blindly going by MSA's diagram and had placed my black link like their example, putting a brown link on the slow roast. I just went down and switched the links to the proper placements. Nothing gets hot anymore! Thanks again!

I've got that driver side piece cut off from a donor car. PM me if interested.

You made me look that up ? and I know that route well. We'll see ?, my next mission is to get the AC working. I know how hot/humid it can get in that neck of the woods...

Gotcha, I did one similar last summer, I used sand paper like you did. Sounds like you're close, I would suggest a fine grit like 1500 or 2000 to make it smooth inside and rinse it with PB Blaster.

Finally traced a short/ground problem with my headlights. There was a nick in one of the 3 wires on the driver side headlight pigtail, under the plastic loom. I found it when removing both headlights to throughly clean the connectors and just happened to visually notice it.

First of all, Lucky you that your old pins came out without too much trouble. I believe the spindle pin is supposed to be a precision fit, however you might still have some rust buildup still there. You don't want any wobble in there. Have you visually looked down the hole? Try finishing the hole with a liquid like PB Blaster and check the fit again.

Spindle Pins are considered a Rite of Passage for Z owners. Lots of good threads here on this site.

And don't forget mechanical stuff either. Drive Shaft, AFM, ECU, Fuel Sender, interior stuff (Panels, switches, knobs, console...). If the price is right, the whole car and strip it clean and put it in boxes.

Teef! I'd rank those up with flames on a car. Only cosmetic stuff and could easily be corrected if so desired without the cost of new paint. Otherwise it looks to be an outstanding car.

Oh well, I least I know I have spare now. ?

Did you ever find a vapor line check valve? I just ran across one in my stash. PM me if interested.