gwri8

Since you been sold already….. I'll answer anyway . You'll need 11 if you include the turn signals glove box and bright light indicator. I went with white. I removed the green lens's and painted the interiors white in the three gauges in the center. I left green len's in the speedo and tach but still put in LEDs. I wanted to see the difference between the lights before I committed taking apart the speedo to paint and take the green out. I do like the white better but the green has a little nostalgia to it. I haven't gotten around to finishing the all white dash lights because I apparently use that lazy gene from the bottom of the pool a little too often. I left the turn signals original because I didn't want to change the flasher like Steve mentioned (lazy gene again) and I really didn't see the need to do them also. As far as using the dash light rheostat, I always keep it on bright anyway.

Same 4 bulbs in the speedo and tach as the rest of the gauges. Keep the regular bulbs in the turn signals, otherwise they may not work with the LEDs.

Ok, I took the image and removed the distortion so it is not so insane. Not so oval wheels now. While working the image I noticed a few things. The passenger is cute with period correct hair. The woman/guy in the back with the Bay City Rollers hair is not very happy with the their body in a position ready for a gynecological exam. You know when the driver turns and looks to back up he's gonna get an eye full. The driver is a little shady. The round thing in the back is either an LP on a turntable (stereo) or a toilet seat. Other than that, I believe Mr K had envisioned a Z wagon of sorts, so this one is not so far off the mark.

Did this problem ever happen before the gas cap? The reason I ask is that according to the specs it says it in not compatible with the 77 Z. It may not be letting any air in. It may just be adding to the problem. However it does not explain why it takes so long to add fuel. LIke ZH mentioned, make sure the flap indicated with the red arrow opens with the push of something like a screwdriver. It should not take very much effort. If it doesn't push open that would be your filling problem.

Not to take away from the suggestions but I'm curious about the gas cap. It looks like it is a screw in type. Is it or does it look like this one from ebay? Where did it come from?

Head's up. If you are going remove the passenger side rear panel, be careful as it can snap if you don't take a couple things off before hand. The rear deck is raised and you will have to also remove the small deck panel on that side first. I highly recommend removing the window strut metal flange also. The one on the body over the panel. It makes it easier to take the panel out without too much flex.

Just confirmed this is what I'm using for the dome. It's plenty bright for me but probably not as much as CO's.. You could say he is brighter than me . Here is what I used for the glove box https://www.superbrightleds.com/moreinfo/ba9s-ba7s/ba9s-led-bulb-4-led-ba9s-retrofit-car-classic-car-bulbs/6/

I can't get to my car right now, but I think i used this one from Super Bright LEDs https://www.superbrightleds.com/moreinfo/festoon/can-bus-578-led-bulb-8-led-festoon-44mm/3418/ or this one https://www.superbrightleds.com/moreinfo/festoon/de3175-led-bulb-4-smd-led-festoon-30mm-car/2107/. I tried to install an extra one of these (the second link) in Jai's car but it smoked out. Not sure if it was just a bad one or not but I wound up using a regular bulb for hers. I can check later. LEDs at the auto stores are pricey around here.

I've got LEDs in the Glove Box, Map Light and Dome on my 280. Also just added under dash and behind the seats LEDs. Big difference from stock bulbs especially from the dome but it does make difference witch LEDs you get. What LED did you use for the dome? Is it a festoon like your map light? The 280 map light is different.

Just got back from Jai's. Replaced the Voltage Reg and all is well. Voltmeter is steady, the headlights don't pulse and the turn signals came back. I even got her dome light working. I'm not an electrical kind of guy and probably less of a AC guy. That being said, I checked it by hand and her A/C compressor is not locked up. It does not come on when switched. I did check the connections at the switch and compressor and they looked good. Remember, this is an aftermarket unit that was installed last summer by a local guy. My hair did not get caught in anything. On a side note it seems that RockAuto has changed their shipping method. You could really get hammered by the shipping costs when you ordered multiple items and they all came from "different" warehouses". This time it all seemed to come from one place with no A,B,C,D origins with DHL being the initial carrier.

You're right, very very clean mostly original car from what I saw, although the overspray on the fuel tank that wasn't explained to any detail. Not a deal breaker though.

abomination |əˌbäməˈnāSHən|noun a thing that causes disgust or hatred: this bill is an abomination to all mankind |informal : concrete abominations masquerading as hotels.• a feeling of hatred: their abomination of indulgence.ORIGIN Middle English: from Latin abominatio(n-), from the verbabominari (see abominate) . I think I like the flame job on the truck better, but not by much. Just my opinion, I'll move on now…..

I used SEM Trim Black on my dash. It is not a flat black but it is non glare. I have no complaints.

May not be of help, but I got the moulded carpet kit with sewn edges from Black Dragon (no longer in business). It worked fine for my purpose's. Like anything else of that nature, you'll have to work with it. Nip, Tuck and heat gun love.

I'm pretty easy. All I really want (right now anyways) is factory brake shims.

@240260280 I know how you like the old ones.

Just to double check, I know you checked the fuses but did you look at the fusible links also?

Yes, sorry for your loss. Like Travel'n Man mentioned above, Pictures of everything. Interior, Engine, All of the outside, Front, Back, underneath. Close ups of the panel below the door and around the wheel wells. The more information the better on these cars. People who are interested in buying will absolutely will ask and want to see these. They will help you sell it now or later. Whenever you are ready. I realize that if you are not car type person it seems like a lot to do but they will help speed up the process.

I bought my first 71' from a used car lot in Arkansas 1976 after a pickup truck thought it was mating season with my VW Bug. Paid about 3K for it. The sold it in 79 for a little more. My current one came from S GA 2014 from a "flipper" truck driver who found it in pieces and put it "kinda, sorta, mostly" back together. His first buyer had backed out after seeing the floor pan (or lack thereof) on the passenger side and responded to my voice mail 2 weeks later that I had cash. Paid 1800 and drove it home 2hrs away.

I noticed there were no tool bins, just covers for the jack and acc's. Typical rust areas but I've seen a lot worse on 280's. I think this will be high dollar. GrannyKnot was the last winner.

1969 #187 is on BAT now. Who wants to guess the final bid? http://bringatrailer.com/listing/1969-datsun-240z/

I remember seeing these somewhere. Out of stock though. https://zcardepot.com/engine/engine-rebuild/crankcase-pcv-vent-hose-oem.html maybe this one. https://zcardepot.com/fuel/fuel-injection/pcv-crankcase-vent-hose-to-intake-280z-280zx.html?gclid=Cj0KEQjwuZvIBRD-8Z6B2M2Sy68BEiQAtjYS3NWQQxvtakAeTiwlnJnM2FDZUd4NzQObqwyAoZQNxcMaAmJK8P8HAQ

I can just imagine how you're going to tell all the girls how smooth your underside is…….

Whilst working on my car today I had an epiphany (or maybe I brain farted yesterday) when I noticed the back of my Alt. There is a solenoid? on the back of the alternator on Jai's car and it is disconnected. The wire is broken from the unit. I saw it and questioned it but have no excuse for not figuring it out right then. That is probably the problem. The question is: Is that part available separately from the alternator or does it come only with the purchase of a new/rebuilt one? I called autozone and looked online but didn't see that part identified. Nor did I see it attached to the catalog pics of the alternators. Autozone has a 60 amp Alt for $31 and can get it in one day. I'm just trying to save Jai some money if I could find it separately. edit: added picture of my alt.

Exactly and on point. My troll feeding is over.