gwri8

Looks great to me. I wish they had those in Ginger.

You know, Joe Namath used to wear them during the winter football games. Said they kept him warm. He also used to wear fur coats (not in football games). Pre-Caitlyn Jenner days I guess…….. I love how "specialty" tools like Eurodat's invade our tool boxes. Like they say, "Necessity is the Mother of Invention"

A little off topic, but I've gotta ask. Cliff, are those very comfortable?

Assuming that you have the original rivets, use a small punch or something similar to push the center of the rivet all the way through. Count on recovering less than half of those center pieces. The rear strut covers are held with those same rivets. Just push the centers out and they should remove easily. New rivets can be purchased in a couple on online stores. If you are going to remove the side panels, remove the hatch struts first. You may have to "bend" the panels a little to get them out. Have Fun. Edit: Oops, just realized you said 2+2. Rivets should be the same but I don not know about the strut covers, sorry.

Just think, after you finish with the rust, NOTHING will deter you ever again!

Update: Paint is on! Went with the original color the car was born with, 240 Green. My painter used Sherwin Williams paint with about 3 coats clear. These teaser shots are while it is curing for a couple of days in the sun. Once cured, He's going to go over it with a wet sand them going to buff off a coat of the clear. Anxious is not a word I use very often, but today I am .

I've looked at the Filler pipe for a while and considered doing something like that. Even went so far as to order this on a whim. http://www.ebay.com/itm/Gas-Tank-Fuel-Filler-Replacement-Insert-2-1-4-X-2-/360504893932 I haven't done anything with it though. It's been moving from bin to bin in my workshop for almost a year now. It might just turn out to be a little winter project.

Here's your photo spot. http://artofjohnpugh.com/portfolio/slowin-down-to-take-a-look-winslow-az/#!prettyPhoto[image_slider]/0/

My front brakes squealed embarrassingly loud as I had no shims when I purchased the car. Tried different pads with the anti-squeal goo from auto zone and it would last maybe a day. I Tried to get Nissan brake shims but they are NLA as far as my search went. Wound up ordering some stick on generic shims from Rock Auto on a chance. I believe they were Carlson 18066. It was very tight getting the pads back in with the shims on but I've had only an occasional tiny squeak since.

Sorry, no pics of mine. If/when it ever goes on a rack again I probably need to take a few,

I've had a oval Magnaflow for about 6 mos. Very happy with it. No headers, 2 1/2" pipe with a straight thru resonator in the middle. Not loud at all but still has "that" sound at idle.

I learn something new almost every day on this forum Bruce. I recall my 71' had two keys and when I got the 77' it came with two keys. So everything was normal right? They are a left cut and right cut keys, but alas, not original. It is a 1/77. Maybe I got the last of the 2 key cars and Datsun was trying to get rid of old inventory . As far as door locks go, RCB gave me a good pointer. I could not unlock the doors with a key, but I could lock them with a key. They were just worn out on one side. RCB's suggestion was to just reverse the door locks. Now I can unlock with a key. To lock, like mentioned before, just hold the handle up. Saved me having to replace locks and ignition just to have a matching key.

There is one key for the ignition and passenger doors, A second key for the rear hatch and glove box. It is very common for the door locks to be worn out. Does your ignition key lock the doors but not unlock them? Check to see. Edit : I might add that a lot can happen in 37+ years. Previous owners could have replaced some locks but not others kind of stuff. It is possible that you have 3 keys, ignition, doors, hatch. Time to put on your Sherlock cap.

This is what gets me going

Mine is approaching paint. Everything I've shot so far have been progress/document shots since I brought it home. If it's done in time and the weather is good, I'll shoot it proper before the end of the year.

Thanks for the replies everyone. I do like shiny things (I was probably an Otter in a previous life) and I know clear will buff out great. I guess my only concern would be the clear peeling, We've all seen this on other cars, even some with factory paint and I do not want to experience that a few years from now. The fellow who I've contacted about paint said he could do a base with 2 coats clear and that he uses Sherwin Williams paint. Paint is probably a few weeks away. In my mind I'll go back and forth with the single stage vs. base/clear in that time. Many beers will have been consumed between now and then. But right now it looks like the base/clear is the preference.

The body work is getting close to finished so I'm starting to look at paint for my 280. The original color code is 240 Racing Green (metal flake) and I will probably keep that color. I will not be the one painting. The question is, what type of paint should I choose? Base with a Clear coat or Urethane /Acrylic? I'm not sure which will look better with a metal flake paint and which will be the tougher of the two. It is not going on a show car, but it is not a daily driver either. I do drive it and people do look at it, you know what I mean? Anyone have an opinion on types of paint and why? I'm all ears (or maybe eyes since this is a post).

Now y'all make me want to buy a $35.00 key. I already have the key ring…. Edit; Just found the key on MSA. Boy they sure are proud of those things. Not even close to the $35 I thought. Wow!

Progress!