metalmonkey47

Thanks for sharing, I'll be sure to pass that along!

Hey guys, just wondering if anyone has a source for new fuel pump spacers. Seems like Nissan, Fel-Pro, and Beck-Arnley are all out-of-stock and discontinued. Quick google didn't find anything. Trying to source this out for a co-worker. Hoping to light a fire under his arse to get his 260Z back on the road soon. Thanks!

Awesome so what I gather is that Z31 rotors are a bolt in replacement for the stock rotors, however vented requires the S12-8 Calipers from the later (91) trucks. I guess I need to decide if the damn vented rotors and calipers are going to fit with my new wheels. (SSR MK3.) 14x7

Thanks for that John, not sure how I missed that.

Hey guys, I've searched this out and I don't seem to be finding a very clear answer. I've been working on maintaining my car and I've decided my next focus should be brakes before playing with much else. I need rotors, and have been reading a little into the S12-8 calipers with vented rotors. I guess my real question right off of the bat, is if later year vented disks will fit on 240Z hubs? Or if I'd be better off buying ZX struts for the front? Just to clarify, my brakes are working okay at the moment, as everything has been replaced (short of the hoses, but I'll be doing that soon.) This summer/spring once I get my L28 together and swapped, I'm hoping to do some mountain runs on what we call the tail of the dragon, which is some intense down hill curves. My concern is with heat in the brakes with non-vented rotors. For reliabilities sake, I'd obviously like to get rid of as much heat as possible, so vented rotors with bigger calipers are really what I want. I suppose I'm trying to find the best way to go about doing this. I AM buying 'Yota calipers soon (I can get them for next to nothing from work) but It's really down to which rotors I'm buying at the same time. http://driven-daily.com/s30-toyota-brake-upgrades/

Can anyone chime in on what shifter will work on these, and clear the console? I've seen quite a few, from the truck shifters with the bend to clear the seat, and the S130 shifters with almost no bend, and much shorter.

With the plastic ball on the end and has the pin that retains it to the shifter?? Dude I can get you one LOCAL like tomorrow. Shoot me a PM and I can tell you where to find one or I'll go pick it up for you.

Hey guys, so i don't have a lot of time to reply to all the questions so I'm gonna try and cover it all here in one big post. Regarding the L24 w/ L28 head, I've had no clearance issues in fact i never even thought to check. I had an MN47 head on it for a while, but the valves were leaking like a siv so I cleaned up an L28 N47 and slapped it on there. That's what's leaking now. FYI, this is fresh coolant and distilled water in the radiator. There is no spray, it's leaking from the head for sure. I was going to re-torque today but ended up going to a local yard to check out a couple Z's with a buddy and look for salvageable parts. Found goodies! I'll post those later........ Anyways, I haven't been seeing any coolant/oil mix yet. I'm going to do a leakdown test tomorrow and retorque if it gets warm enough. It's 17 degrees out now. Another thing to note: I have coolant on the floor and I'm a little pissed at my 240 even though i shouldn't be. Driving back from the grocery store, I turned right merging into traffic and put my foot down. Prior to this, I had no reason to suspect the compression rings were also leaking although now I fear they are. During the 1-2 shift I heard what sounded like it might have been a little pop and started smelling antifreeze instantly. Windows started to fog, etc etc bad news etc.... Pretty sure I popped the heater core, and my only guess is that it's the result of compression leaking into the water jacket and over pressurizing the cooling system. I parked the car and gave up for the night but it looks like tomorrow I'm going to be troubleshooting that too... I'm in for a busy day. Hoping it's just a loose hose that's spraying. They're all brand new so I doubt it...

Seems like I'm posting issues more then usual. I think my car's on a breaking streak after begin driven more in the last few months then she has in years. I swapped in my rebuilt N47 head onto my L24 to help my compression issues and after driving it about 3 months I've noticed after my last oil change a few weeks back that the center of the head is starting to seep antifreeze. The head was checked and seemed perfectly straight. The block as well, however the motor could have been overheated several time before, and had a blown head gasket when I got it early 2014 (which is why the E31 head isn't on it) so there is no telling. I had no seeping issues on the worn out MN47, however I guess at this point it may have just been coincidence. I have ARP studs in this motor. Is it worth a re-torque to help solve this issue for a short time? I'm getting ready to throw an L28 together and build a racey head for it, but since this is currently my DD I can't afford any extended down time. And it's cold as $^!# this week (13 degrees) so working on it for long periods is out of the question. Note: I've yet to do a compression/leakdown test however I have both so I may take the time out of my day tomorrow and do it.

Found U joints, got a press from work, got ready to replace the u joints, and realized the fackin bolts on the drivers side half shaft vibrated loose. FAIL! -Tightened them up, thud was gone! -Next day, thud came back. -Driveshaft came loose. (Been having that issue, I ordered new bolts. PO just stuck random hardware in there.) -Still have a little thud with the driveshaft tight now. This car is a pain in my arse I'm just gonna throw a new joint on every shaft this spring since they don't seem loose now. Everything is tight, probably just had the driveshaft vibrate loose again. When the new bolts come in, we'll see what it does.

Felpro or Nissan on the gaskets. If buying seals separate, Timkin is thew only way to go.

Thanks again Blue! Think I'm gonna go look for some donor shafts that I can rebuild off the car.

It sure did S30driver! In time, I may search out a paid. I'm not looking to invest any money in those details at the moment, until the car is 100% mechanically restored. I'm not sure, the car is a repaint however it's very close to the original. I still have the paint code sticker under the hood, I'll take a look tomorrow. Blue, the bike you speak of. Wish I could find all my seriously cool pictures from years back.

Some pictures from my build thread. ^I ripped all of THAT out from the hatch of the car. I have no freaking clue what these guys thought they were going to accomplish with that..... Here's what the headlight contacts looked like.

haha Thanks for rubbing dirt in the wound Steve :: I've already opened the hazard and turn signal switches. In fact, I've cleaned/polished the contacts on all of the switches, simply because nothing in the combo switch worked when I got the car. I have an electronic flasher on the way, I hooked a spare up using a 552 flasher instead of the 175 (round instead of rectangular) and it didn't seem to get hot, although I did not run it as long. It still flashed inconsistently. Steve, I'd make plans to come over there but I think first I need to find a donor dash harness and new fuse box, trust me... it's a rats nest from the stupid PO's 'mechanic' or as I like to refer to him, sirfuxupalot.

So this is all regarding my '70 240Z's wiring. Although most of what I'm going to ask is just going to be universal Datsun knowledge. My turn signals don't work on my 240. Hazards work very weirdly. Flash very fast, then slow down slightly. Then fast, then slow. ALL bulbs are working with no corrosion in the sockets. After running the flashers for a moment, the flasher gets HOT along with the wiring and starts to smoke slightly. Seems like a short, but no obvious wiring issues that I've found. Now something I'm not used to is this style flasher. It's a 'Signal Stat' 175 flasher two prong, similar to the canister ones I've found on later year Dattos. Not sure if it's stock or not, but the car is pretty much 100% original. Rather then having a plastic 2 prong plug like every other Datto/car I've ever owned it's got two female spades. Is it possible that this flasher could be connected backwards causing a short? Or the 44 year old flasher could just be shot? Do the hazards/turns signals share a common flasher? Seems to me that if there was a short in the vehicle harness it would simply just flash SLOW (since the flashers are load based) rather then fast which typically happens at low load, like when a bulb is burned out. (SteveJ I have got to come see you soon! Need to pick up some spare wiring harness parts to repair the harness first)

Fantastic! Any suggestions on where these can be located? Seems any parts store I've checked with either doesn't list them for the R180, or doesn't sell them at all. Do they differ between R160/180/200?

Well I figured it out guys! The outer driver side halfshaft u-joint is wobbly. I checked it when the clunk started, but I suppose with all the issues I've had to deal with kind of masked it, and this probably just started recently here. FWIW, the front diff mount looks like it's been replaced recently. The rubber is nice and tight with no tears or rust on the plates. Can you buy halfshaft joints? Are they even re-buildable without a driveshaft shop working em over??

Wow thanks for all the information guys! I was just reading through Hybridz this morning on a long thread detailing some of this. I think my clunk is coming from quite a few places, unfortunately the output shaft on the transmission seems to have a little play, enough that it makes checking the u joints more difficult. Although, as cheap as they are I might just go ahead and replace them and have the driveshaft balanced. I also considered strapping my GoPro under the car pointing at the diff to watch it lift. Is it possible that jacking lightly on the nose of the diff might reveal any play? Or is that just a terrible idea, risking damaging an already worn mount? I'll check all the mount hardware, I never took the time to do that for some reason, but I'll take the time tomorrow morning. Blue, do you by chance have the P/N on that mount? I see a partial in that picture there. Not sure if you have a full picture or P/N.

I think I made this more complicated then it had to be. I recall fixing an issue with the regulator wiring when I started driving it, and I think I tested the new regulator before fixing that. Dunno that I ever looked into it after that. Anyways, I think it may (and probably will) be the regulator. load no load Idle 12.6V 13.8 2200 load no load 14.2V 14.3V Sadly, I have no time off around the holidays. I need to get with you soon though.

No kidding, so am I. Let me know if ya need it man. I'll dig it out just in case. I think I've even polished it.

I've been trying to keep up with my build threads everywhere, but it can be tricky. I've been doing regular maintenance. Thanks to Blue, got the carbs a lot better off. Decided a few weeks ago to have a go at the paint and.... voila! Picking up a better off L28 this weekend probably, and starting the rebuild. It's already got flat tops, and will be coupled to either my E31 head (once repaired) or MN47 head once re-worked.

Where ya at Cegg11? I think I have one in the garage you can have.

Running back to my electrical gremlins in my '70 240Z as the temperature begins dropping outside, some of the issues become more annoying or severe. The PO of my car had someone 'work' on the car, which for some reason included cutting the pigtail out of the fusebox and main harness, and splicing it together with house wiring connectors (didn't even crimp it. Fail) I have no ammeter deflection, except when running lights, brakes, heater, etc. And the deflection is always negative. Charging voltage at idle (900) is about 13.8V, No more then 14.1 at any given time. I have NOT checked this number with accessories on, so I'll get back with you guys tomorrow about that. At idle with accessories/lights at night, I notice the headlights are slightly dimmer and the blower runs slower until the revs are up. Again, no positive ammeter deflection. My primary concern is that my batter voltage is about 12.3V with the engine off. This is on a Yellow Top Optima, mind you. A full charge at 10 amps off of my charger in the house overnight leave it about 12.6 and load tests fine at about 700CCA. I have no drain on the battery overnight whatsoever. My main concern is that the alternator doesn't seem to be maintaining the battery very well, which seems to affect cold starts ever so slightly. I'd hate to see how slow it turns over when it's 20 degrees outside. Is it possible that the alternator might have a somewhat sufficient voltage output, but mediocre amperage output? I'm very curious, because the ammeter on the dash shows virtually nothing. How can i verify JUST the amperage output of the alternator?

Knocked it out like a piece of cake guys! I was pleasantly surprised how easy it was to do. However the insert for the original bushing (after burning away all of the old bushing) seemed to be rolled over on the edge, so I had to bang it out flat again before I could press the new bushing in place. I decided against painting the bar, as the original part numbers were still easily legible. So i cleaned it up, and put it back on. I WAS going to pull the diff cover and re-seal it, but after looking at it a little longer, I decided the diff was probably going to come out sooner or later (that's a thread for another day) I decided to do the bushings, because I had a bit of a clunk from the rear when accelerating from a stop and shifting. The bushings were pretty close to original if my guess is right. They actually didn't even look broken when I pulled it, or cracked for that matter. Turns out I STILL have the clunk. Halfshafts are in good shape and have no joint play, driveshaft u joints are fine and tight, diff mount is just dandy and has no play. The limiting strap is still in place on the nose. My only guess is that there's slack in the diff. The car apparently had been doing some pretty intense burnouts according to the PO's neighbors. It's got a bit of a whine as well, so I would not be surprised if the lowly R180 is about to pop like a balloon. Fresh fluid didn't quiet the whine in the slightest. Phillip, I do indeed owe you quite a few beers. I'm quite the SU tuner now. Just a little tinkering and it seems to be much better after you walked me through them.