metalmonkey47

Unfortunately, I'm working all day tomorrow. The cars not really up for a 'long' drive. It has a tendency to start running poorly. Probably a result of the fouled plugs. I really wish I could make it out.

WOW! That thing is clean under the hood.

The choke is releasing fune, i greased it up for good measure. Funny thing, using the clear hose I found the float height was dead at 20mm and even on both front and rear carbs. This thing just runs rich one minute, and fine the next. It's so inconsistent it's IMPOSSIBLE to find out why. I can't break 65mph either, because it starts to run like absolute ****, and after that I'm completely down on power and run poorly. I've been pretty thorough on this car and just can not seem to get the damn thing running right, it all seems to circle around the super rich carb issues. The car takes hills very poorly, in fact spirited driving is impossible in the car as a result. It has an issue revving high and breaks up at about 4000 RPM, I can only assume because of how rich it is. Maybe this will provide some info into the 'revving' problem. http://youtu.be/cQXYH_2TyP0

They are all sooty and black. In trying to balance the carbs, I ended up running the front carb a little rich as well. This was before I realized I had one just one carb richer then the other. The rear plugs are obviously much nastier then the front.

Hey guys, just want to start this off by saying that I am a total side draft noob, and the only thing I know is what I've read over the last few months on places like this. Anyways, I've been fighting an issue with my SU's. I thought I was just doing a crappy job at tuning them, but it turns out the rear carb is running super rich a full up. It's so rich the exhaust smell burns your eyes. It makes it very dangerous to drive, as the smell fills the car. What I've done so far: -I've reset both needles in the pistons, and filled them with fresh fluid. -Check the chokes to make sure the jet tube was moving up and down freely on BOTH carbs. -Set float height @ 10mm (specs that came with my rebuild kits) -Replaced Needle & Seat (both carbs) I'm sure I missed something I'll remember in a minute... I've determined it's the rear carb by running the screws full up, (you can hear it running very rough on what seems like half of the engine) where it should have stalled. Cupping hand over the front carb causes the idle to increase slightly before dropping back down, telling me it's lean as it should be. Cupping hand over the rear carb, the idle drops immediately and the motor starts to stall. Obviously that tells me the rear carb is rich. I've done a lot of research, I feel I've been very thorough but obviously I'm missing an important step somewhere. I've spent the last 6 hours (I'm not even exaggerating) trying to track this down. If someone could help point me in the right direction I'd appreciate it, this is my DD and gets me back and forth to work everyday. It sucks I can't enjoy it right now!

Update: The timing has really confused me. At some point someone must have dropped the oil pump, because the distributor is off by quite a bit. I can't get enough advance. It starts to break up at 4000-4500. No more revs under load after that. With my cheap timing light it's WAY off the timing table.... gotta drop the oil pump and get it figured out. Other then that, I've been happy with it! It has NO dash lights, so I'm a little disappointed by that. I hate electrical gremlins. A little picture for now.

Well just a simple update, the new tires fixed it! The car rides so smooth it's actually quite nice. Thanks everyone!

If it's anything like my 210 I had, they would exit down in the fenders. The water would drain down the cowl out of the drivers side and passenger side inner fenders, but they clog with dirt and trash, so the water would collect in the cowl. I got the car home last night! We wrestled the glass into the hatch for about 3 hours until we were able to make it fit. I drove the car this morning to work and it presented a few issues. I have a clunk accelerating that needs to be addressed. We just put good axle shafts in, and the driveshaft joints felt tight when i was under it so I'll have to look at the rear end tomorrow. The car was running pig rich, so bad it would hurt your eyes and at 4000RPM or under heavy loads (up hill at heavy throttle) it would cut up and billow black smoke from the pipes. I balanced the carbs out by ear and with my hands for the time being, and set the timing and she runs like a top!! First picture after her bath for now.

Thanks Chas, I'm getting tires tomorrow so I'll remember to mention that. I know the guys at the shop personally so I trust I'll get good advice. I'm using some generic steel wheels with tapered seat nuts, so I don't imagine that could be the issue. This wobble is only at very low speeds, but I do have a slight vibration at higher speeds, so either way it seems like I'll need tires/balancing. The tires are rather old and dry-rotting anyways. I'll post back tomorrow. Thanks!

Correct. That's what I'm afraid of. Maybe someone will chime in on their experiences.. I don't like using spacers.

So it's my understanding that mid-80's 4x4 Yota calipers/pads are a bolt on replacement to the stock calipers. My question is regarding fitment on 14'' wheels. I will be running SSR MKIII's in a 14x7, and would really like larger brakes, but obviously I'm a little concerned about wheel fitment on the larger calipers. Coming from the truck world, I know very few people have fit 14'' wheels with Z32 calipers, so I'm wondering if the Z's are picky in that way as well.

Thanks for the advice man! There's a good chance that's where it is. The rust looks all to be at the lowest point in the floor so there's a good chance that is what it is. I'll be ripping the wiper motor/linkages out soon so I'll check the cowl drains as soon as I do that. (Obviously) I got the car home tonight! It runs magnificent. Only issue I see at this point is that the car punishes me for trying to beat on it. Under load/full throttle it chokes and I've gotten a few nice pops from the exhaust. Very same symptoms my LZ22 in the 620 showed after the first drive, which was rectified with a little more advance. I haven't checked the timing yet, but now that I have it at home with all my tools I'll be doing that. ^^any feedback would be great. So stoked that the car only cost me $67 per month to insure.

Hey guys thanks for the feedback, you guys put me on the right track for sure. Steven, Tim is a little ways away from me and Matt is out of town, racing I think so I'm going to have a buddy look at it. Seems like it's got to be simple. There's no play anywhere. I FINALLY got the car home tonight, and driving it was wonderful. It's so responsive and quick steering that I was kind of worried at first that something was loose. I got used to it quick. The car tracks straight and drives so well. Getting it up to 50 was easy. The wobble is only to the left at low speeds. Once you get it above 15 the car is stable. Wondering if it might possibly be in the tires. I'm putting some new 185/65/14's on it in a week or so. We will see soon.

The only apparent play was in the rack mount. But I will go back over it to be thorough. I wonder if the issue might be in one of the coupler's or the u-joint from the steering column shaft to rack input. Actually, a good suggestion...they are rather old. I do have some spares I might toss on for ****s & giggles.

I wouldn't mind having them. I'll shoot you a PM in a little bit when i get a chance, not ready for them quite yet as the car isn't yet on the road, but I'm interested for sure. Interesting. Thanks for the P/N, I'd like to stay as close to original as possible so I'll check with my local Nissan guy and see if they can get there hands on one for a good price. It is on my replace list, I have no clue how old this thing is. Also, I've heard a little about using mid 80's Yota 4x4 calipers on a 240z, and that they bolt onto the stock location with no modifications, using a stock rotor. Does this use the standard brake line, or are there modifications required to use this caliper? Also has anyone had fitment issues inside 14'' rims? Anyone that might be able to toss in some words would be great help... Last but not least, I did get a chance to finally rub some nice Meguires compound on the hood just for a test spot, and man the paint sure clears up nice! It's hard to tell from this poor picture, but there's quite a nice shine, almost mirror-like, and it's not even polished or waxed. Wow I love enamel paint. Oh yeah, just for entertainment purposes, a friend I went to high school with and his '76 Celica. It's got a Yota Tacoma motor stock as a rock with a nice HX35 turbo setup, and some piggyback ECM. Not sure what exactly.

Forgive my ignorance, this is my first time ever owning a rack & pinion car so I'd like to be thorough. My '70 Z has a slight wobble in the steering from side to side about 1/4-1/2'' at low speeds. I haven't gotten it up past 20 mph yet, as I'm still doing some minor repair work before a hard shakedown run so I can't say how much better/worse it gets at different speeds. I've had my hands on every piece in the front end, ball joints, tie rods, control arms, etc etc. The only issues I ran into were sway bar mount bushings, and a slight looseness in the rack mount bushings. Since then I have replaced all those bushings with MSA supplied bushings. I have not had a chance to test drive the car again since then but Just in the event the issue wasn't resolved from the bushings, is there anything you guys might be able to suggest as to what might be the cause of this? Again, I'm very new to working on rack & pinion cars.... This particular car is very clean and original, and happens to be pretty well maintained. I can't help but think there might be some damage done to the rack though. EDIT: Left this out, I've put a wrench on every nut on the car and they're all super tight, so it's not a matter of any loose joints or loose nuts. Except the one behind the wheel.

Hey Carl, it actually is the rear vents on the hatch that are missing, but I have found several on Ebay that look fine, so it's not a big deal to find. I need the original badging as well, but other then that I should be okay. It is a vertical striped hatch. Interesting, is there any benefit of running the later master cylinder? Different bore size maybe? I can't see any reason why someone would go from stock on such an original car, unless the original wasn't availible at the time. I'd hope not! haha they look exactly like the MSA ones. I actually need a new set. Unfortunately, someone pushed against the headlight cover on the drivers side when we were moving it off of the tow dolly, and shattered it so I'll need another set. Fortunatly, a tinted set run about $70 on thezstore.com You'll see me at C&O soon! I'm hoping to have the Z on the road this weekend, then I'll plan on making it to C&O. Just look for the 96 Rock plate Also if you haven't already and you're on Facebook, look up Georgia Datsun Owners. We have a growing community there with lots of Z people.

Thanks man! I had never heard about the Honda wiper motor swap until now, our weather can go from a drizzle to a torrential downpour in minutes so it helps to have faster wipers. Yeah electrical is no fun....but I can manage it. The master cylinder is Tokico branded, not sure if it's original or a reman. Found the issue with my intermittent headlights. Gotta giggle the switch sometimes. Not anymore. Also I wiped the car down with some quick wax and a Mr. Clean Magic Eraser. The car is superrrrr clean under all this grime. I'll buff it out after I clay-bar it.

Yeah it's a hell of a deal! The PO that sold it to me had it since 2003, and has been coming to me (I work in parts retail) for parts and when he's had issues the last 4 years and I've been able to assist him everytime he's had an issue, just to keep it running. The head gasket was easy, tracking down everything else in the wiring is the tough part. Any suggestions on a type of grease for assembly? I have some Mobil 1 bearing grease (the red high temp) that I used on all of the linkages for the carbs that seems to be working very well. Will do man! I'll shoot ya a message over Facebook before I get into them.

Thanks DJ, this one will remain original, other then some minor fun mods, shorter springs, better dampeners, maybe a fun L28 (keep the L24 to the side... it's #'s matching) But everything on the car will be period correct. I have some SSR MK3's for the car when It's driveable. I hope to order some BRE body parts (front spoiler) in the future. I also have a spare wiper motor (in fact we have a whole spare '73, some parts are interchangeable) that I'm going to clean up and re-grease, hopefully I'll get a little better speed out of this one once the linkages are all greased. My hatch is a true Series 1, although it's missing the vents it is a vertical striped Series 1.

Found a picture of this old girl probably back in the 90's! MAN she looked good!

Hey Steven, nice to see some locals over here. Turns out the majority of the issues are a result of some home grown GA ghetto mechanics. Several wires out of the fuse block were mutilated and chopped up, then put back together with wiring nuts. No bueno. I've been tracing wires, and I'm very familiar with the function of almost every wire in a Series 1 now. Not something I'm proud of having to know... I still have an issue though, when the hazards are on they flash very fast, then slow down which indicates a short somewhere (drawing extra current, slowing down the load flasher) with the left side turn signals on, I did get a little smoke out of the turn signal switch so I know it's somewhere on that side of the car. Just some random pics of some of what I've had to deal with..... Thanks man!

Thanks guys! You've been a lot better off so far then Hybridz (I hate that place after 2 posts) Everyone there could only tell me to V8 swap it. Annoying. Sad to see Dean passed away, I was hoping to learn a little about the history on the car. Sadly I don't think I ever will. Anyways, the car came to me for $1000. It's got some VERY strange wiring issues that I've been sorting through. About 12 hours with a meter and I've managed to restore function to the headlights, turn signals, hazards, and brake lights. The wipers are dead slow (which might be in the motor) and something is drawing a massive load on the left turn signal. Got a little smoke from the switch so i need to figure that out. The car is 100% rust free except some small holes under the drivers side seating area. About the size of a tennis ball on both sides. Minor, and an easy fix. Other then the issue with the wiring that resulted from some half arse 'mechanic' playing electrician, the car came to me with a blown head gasket, trashed half shafts, and missing hatch. All of which have been rectified. The L24 is SUPER responsive with an N47 head on it. The E31 sustained some damage which will be repaired in the future and put back on the car with some power adders. The hatch is in paint, and halfshafts were replaced with some off of a parts car. Soon I'll have fresh U joints in them and I'll be driving this puppy every day. For now, here are some more pictures. Please keep in mind, this car is all original and un-restored.

Here she is with my 620

Well guys, this is my first Z but not my first Datsun. I've had an '81 210, and a 75 620 with a build LZ22. I came across this 240Z from a customer at work, who I've been helping along for years, hoping one day he'll remember me if he ever decided to sell it. Fortunately, the day came. I picked up this car so cheap, I won't say because I'm afraid I'll break someone's heart. She's a 100% legit 03/70 with a vin of 2563. Yep, Pretty freaking early since the '69's vin ran up to somewhere in the area of 1700. It's complete, and seems to have an original 55,000 miles! No worn pedal pads, dash has one small crack, seats are good except some small cracking, interior is complete minus carpet, etc etc. Hell the car is still equipped with the factory exhaust, minus the edition of a cool looking muffler at the end. Enough with the info though, I can get back to that in a little bit. I'm hoping someone can weigh in on the 'rarity' of such an early Z. Here's a simple picture my girlfriend took after we picked her up. It needs a wash, and a new front bumper (looks like someone tried to tow it)