dvorak

Do you guys think that 16x8.25 would fit? All the XXR rims seem to be 8 or 8.25 wide. I'm having a hard time finding a 16x7 I like in 4x114.3.

I'm working on a '73 240z, and while I'm fine with mechanical work and such, wheels and tire sizes are a completely different world to me. My 240 is basically stock with the L28 and 5-speed swap, and Tokico Illumia adjustables. My daily is my motorcycle so the Z would be mostly when I need to haul stuff around, when it rains, and the occasional time when I feel like carving up the hills. I guess i'm looking for a decently grippy all weather tire. I'm leaning toward the Bridgestone Potenza RE970AS Pole position. So far I like the XXR 527 and 551 but I don't know what size or offset or any of that. I don't want them to stick out and don't want to put fender flares on. Basically I want to know whats a good rim and tire size combo that i can run without rubbing and perform decently?

I've finally got the brakes working besides the E-brake. I've adjusted it per the service manual by pulling it and letting the ratchet click into place. It doesn't ratchet any more and the E-brake still doesn't work. Is there some kind of adjuster underneath that I haven't spotted yet? I don't see anything in the service manual. Or is my cable just too stretched out and it's time for a new one? The car had it's E-brake on for a good year or two while the car was sitting before I bought it.

well replaced those leaky lines and still no full brakes. While sitting in the drive way running it's still the same symptoms. Pedal goes straight to the floor and "Brake" light on the dash comes on. Pump the pedal and it builds pressure and gets stiffer and no light. let it sit for a couple seconds and it goes to the floor again. Gonna replace the front calipers and flex lines next and see if that helps. Took it slowly around the block too, the car stops just slowly and at the very last bit of the pedal. also the E-brake does't really work while moving, gotta adjust that.

Sorry for taking so long, with work I really don't get much time to work on the Z, but here's some updates. I replaced the MC with a new one that came with the car. I properly bench bled it. Properly bled each brake line with someone pressing the pedal. I would have them hold the pedal down, open the bleeder, close the bleeder, let off the pedal, repeat. I've found out that the block with the "Brake Line Pressure Differential Warning Light Switch" is leaking, but only when force is applied to the brakes. seems like it's leaking from one of the two ports on the bottom where the MC connects. When I start the car, the brake pedal goes straight to the floor, but if I pump it, it builds pressure and gets firmer. If I let it run for a a couple seconds after that all pressure is lost and the pedal goes straight to the floor. Also found a plug unplugged and the "brake warning" light on the dash now comes on when I press the brakes and the pedal goes to the floor. When I pump them and the pedal gets stiffer, the light doesn't come on.

Hi everyone, I've just taken ownership of a '73 240Z and have started restoring it. I've run into one problem so far though. I can't get the brakes to fully work. I've changed out the rear wheel cylinders due to the old ones being leaky, and some new hard lines in to them. I pulled the MC and thoroughly cleaned it. I haven't done a full proper bench bleed, but I have used a vacuum bleeder on the the MC trying to get most of the air out. also used the vacuum bleeder on wheel bleeders and got the air out of the lines. However i'm still not getting any braking force. With the engine off the pedal is hard to push. when i start it the pedal goes to the floor with almost no resistance. I have to then pump the pedal to get any braking force.