12doplumbing

See this? It's not shown in the NWC T5 manual, is it? I re-soldered the two connections and wasted time doing something other than searching online for what the f___ it is. Pic 2 here: this is the port for the back up switch, right? Well I guess I better order one... So the first picture must be a neutral light (another member/electrical genius, Kurk MacKay -- who is making me a wiring harness to go with a MegaSquirt.... Says he believes it's the neutral switch. But I am so easily confused I could've misunderstood him or what question he was answering). Any help double checking these will be appreciated.

I need to remove this darned "cog" (?) from our T5 in order to put the new correct-toothed part in, but I can't seem to get it to budge I removed the small bolt and keeper washer, then attempted to grab and twist with channel locks behind the threads, but no luck. Heat? Oh; '72 240 with L28 F54/P90A sitting on my shop bench for aesthetic, sculptural interest as well as anticipation Hell. Seems like every little item; bearing collar length, fork retainer clip, or this speedo housing keeps the project spread out all over my shop in limbo

I'll be in the hunt for a ds Already read up on that thread and saved links -- thanks for this site Got to have it shortened, or the end fitted onto, etc So is it a general consensus that I should look for a Type B 5 speed? The BW is that much heavier and undesirable? Quite a few threads saying differently but I'm the student here...

Zed Head : What's the biggest drawback to this combination? It seems to be a pretty nominal concern in the scheme of things. These items were purchased from someone as a package; so the choices of rear end, motor and T5 were all what another wanted and couldn't afford to put together. I have been trying to teach myself the whole z thing ever since. And I didn't get any response from anyone at Hybridz on the welded differential. Do you know why this was done or if this was a limited slip?

You caught the mustache!! We got her in

BTW: Here are some additional photos of the build:

First question for anyone that knows: My son's 6 of '71 ('72) 240 is getting an R200 with a 3.9 ratio. When I went to service and make sure of the gear ratio, I found this: The main large ring gear is stamped with the 39:10 ID but what I don't get is the smaller internal gears; they're welded together. Is this a LS differential that has been "cured" of potential breakage? Secondly: I bought a T5 to replace the four speed. I think I should have bought a non Borg Warner five speed "Type B" instead, but I'm not sure. From what I've read through many a thread and blog in order to avoid sounding like a whiner who doesn't want to do the work, was that a T5 is better matched with a 3.545 rear ratio, or 3.7. The assumption that first and second gear will burn rubber too easily was met with approval from my son; strong approval. But I'd like to know any other concerns anyone may know. Is first gear going to red line the turbo we're putting in too quick? Second as well? I believe I've understood this potential as one of the drawbacks... I guess I could let him blow the motor and learn some more valuable lessons... The T5 is identified under the shifter with these markings: R1, then under that 13-52-066-903, the the Borg Warner markings. Under that but forward bolted to the housing is a metal tag reading: 052-004 space 24379 (I can't read what the number is above this on the tag...). Above on the top of the middle housing reads Basic 1, 13-51-097-901. Lastly, on the front section top reads 6Z 791 From what my son found on a link provided by another member, I believe, is that this BW was made for the 1983 turbo. We are putting in an '83 turbo. Thoughts and feedback are much appreciated.

Thank you. I think I successfully started the new thread....

Nice link!! But my ? On 3.9 high rev/short first and second with T5 is still not understood/answered. Also: our search says our numbers on T5 went to a '83 280zxt - turbo. Where are you getting your info? That it's 84-86?

ZBUM's Z31 Transmission Information Page Try that link to get started. I have "supposedly" a T5 Borg Warner that I'm trying to figure out some questions on myself. My issues relate to whether or not my gear ratio and this "T5" together are a good marriage....

Fastwoman: I'm a dad with a son who has been working on sewer lines and doing wood chores since he was three. I tried to get him in a 635csi when the discussion of upgrading his mountain bike went south. That didn't work. He was stuck on the Fairlady. His money, mostly; our project. Lawyers screw up everything, in my opinion. If we live in fear of what they may claim, we become as weak as them; saps who live off the wealth others create, for the most part (btw: my 15 year old wasn't allowed into Pick-n-Pull this weekend because of some punk legal claim. That's the revolution I'd love to partake in; tort reform in every form). When we learn how to post pics on this site, we will. Thanks for the cautionary advice and I'll post our brake mistakes soon I hope.

I appreciate the cautionary warning. I desire to simplify without removing items which will increase risk. The two devices (brake warning light and proportioning valve) create six more connections and compound potential problems discussed throughout these blogs creating hair-pulling scenarios and by proxy allowing unsafe items to increase. I don't want to get rid of the proportioning adjustment, I just want to plumb it in a different place and create the ability to adjust it (if my son insists on the "cool" disk upgrade for the rear brakes at some point). I do, however, want to get rid of the "idiot lite" mechanism. I don't want idiot lites; line pressure gauges if I feel it becomes necessary to monitor brake line status would be the solution. The z has two independent systems already so I'm not worried about a "sudden and accidental" occurrence rendering the vehicle unable to stop -- three, with e-brake option. I'm not a purist; don't want everything stock and unmolested. I'm not a mechanic; don't condescend to know more or believe I can design better or improve upon those who know better. I'm a dad, fearful of his 15 year old treating the roads as a playground, driving too fast, hurting himself or others. I'm a dad who said "Maybe if I buy a lift and find a fixer that's his ultimate dream car, I can turn his car obsession into a good thing rather than a dad-worrying-helpless-hell." And "Maybe if he spends countless hours getting greasy and cleaning currently unknown items and trying to understand how and why they need to go back, he'll remember this incredible investment of time and effort someday... when the urge to show-off or push the envelop creeps up... and think better!". I don't know, but I'm trying. And I do want him to feel a complete understanding of his build and choices in modifying so that his enjoyment of it will increase as well.

I appreciate the cautionary warning. I desire to simplify without removing items which will increase risk. The two devices (brake warning light and proportioning valve) create six more connections and compound potential problems discussed throughout these blogs creating hair-pulling scenarios and by proxy allowing unsafe items to increase. I don't want to get rid of the proportioning adjustment, I just want to plumb it in a different place and create the ability to adjust it (if my son insists on the "cool" disk upgrade for the rear brakes at some point). I do, however, want to get rid of the "idiot lite" mechanism. I don't want idiot lites; line pressure gauges if I feel it becomes necessary to monitor brake line status would be the solution. The z has two independent systems already so I'm not worried about a "sudden and accidental" occurrence rendering the vehicle unable to stop -- three, with e-brake option. I'm not a purist; don't want everything stock and unmolested. I'm not a mechanic; don't condescend to know more or believe I can design better or improve upon those who know better. I'm a dad, fearful of his 15 year old treating the roads as a playground, driving too fast, hurting himself or others. I'm a dad who said "Maybe if I buy a lift and find a fixer that's his ultimate dream car, I can turn his car obsession into a good thing rather than a dad-worrying-helpless-hell." And "Maybe if he spends countless hours getting greasy and cleaning currently unknown items and trying to understand how and why they need to go back, he'll remember this incredible investment of time and effort someday... when the urge to show-off or push the envelop creeps up... and think better!". I don't know, but I'm trying. And I do want him to feel a complete understanding of his build and choices in modifying so that his enjoyment of it will increase as well.

I want one. How much now? Prefer one piece all the way across. I'm going to cap the top with a nice hardwood....

Well, I wonder if anyone has done a custom dash? I want to see pics of creations if so. We are considering a new flat aluminum face with hardwood cap either varnished or wrapped in leather. Custom center console to match. The father-son resto of a '72 with '83 turbo ...

Hybrid Z link pretty much gives me confidence to abandon the warning light switch and plumb in a new knob style balancing valve in the rear brake line system wherever I want (probably next to stock e-brake). Here is the link: Brake upgrade FAQ - Brakes, Wheels, Suspension, and Chassis - HybridZ This came from another member with an incredible blog; grannyknot

Anyone know what I've got here? Under the shifter is: R1, then under that is 13-52-066-903, then under that "Borg Warner". On the front it has "Basic 1" and another "Borg Warner" with a different number: 13-51-097-901. Appreciate knowing. Son and I want to put an '83 turbo in his '72 240 with this five speed.

I didn't see the value in installing the rear disk set-up. My son may disagree. But the crap all over the firewall -- proportioning valve then the warning light switch -- just don't want to go back with so much BS. He's going to know when his ride isn't braking right; no idiot light is gong to help him sleep. We like the idea of stripping it down to basic-basics. Having a real clean engine compartment, etc.

My son and I want to clean up / simplify the engine compartment and entire dash on his '72 complete resto. We want to keep the rear drum system and e-brake, but get rid of the factory brake warning light system on the fire wall and the factory proportioning valve - install an Arizona Z proportioning or another aftermarket one. We're completely removing the dash and existing electrical so we don't have issues with warning lights. Any insight on the above reduction and simplification?