blodi

^ Thanks for the tip! So, I was researching the header install. I have the MSA 6-1 header and got their "performance" header gasket. Its sounds like a lot of people have had problems with the MSA gasket leaking in the past? Or is that an older design? What have you guys had luck with?

Got some bummer news...my trans won't be ready for a couple more weeks. Was hoping for it today or tomorrow. Trans shop is just backed up and the holidays aren't helping anything. I guess I have plenty of other stuff to do...carb rebuilds, fuel pump install, diff snub mount install, clean the crap out of everything. Oh, I went ahead and ordered a new lower breather hose and pcv valve from MSA. I can reuse the valve cover vent hose...it was still in good shape...but the lower hose was a replacement that was done with two parts and the bigger tube wasn't made for vacuum and was fairly collapsed looking. Might explain why I had smoke after the pull on the dyno. Is it difficult/impossible to install the engine with a 6-1 header on it? Can I install the carbs/intake on the engine, then install it in the car and then get the header on in the car? Just want to do what I can outside the car while I wait.

Alright, got the breather tube off of the L24. Just a couple light taps with a rubber mallet and it came loose. To get that big hex plug out of the L28....I couldn't find a allen wrench large enough, but then it dawned on me to use a bolt. Just so happens that the two long headed bolts on the front the motor that hold the fuel rail on were perfect! So got it out that way. I'll start with two open breathers and cap the intake manifold, but might eventually go back to a pvc setup. IMG_5515 by blodi, on Flickr IMG_5516 by blodi, on Flickr

So do you guys suggest running a stock PCV hose and valve to the intake manifold or the K&N breather for my application? What about the valve cover breather? Should I just do the stock setup and route it back to the intake too?

You guys are gonna make me get that breather working, aren't you? I'll look at it tonight. I don't have a hex bit large enough to get that plug out...I'm wondering how I'll get all that JB weld cleaned out as well. I just sent the crank breather filter I ordered back to MSA since I thought I wouldn't need it. But, I've seen them at local parts stores too.

Yup. It goes to that block under the coil. Just cap it off there?

Thanks:) I guess i've never grown up with all my toys out in my "man cave". I honestly am not buying or selling either way. I have read both sides of the topic. This thread is what convinced me to keeping it blocked was ok: http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/75143-crank-case-ventilation/ The argument that boosted L28ET's are only breathing though the valve cover once boost comes on seems valid. My 600+hp turbo NSX only vents through the valve covers to a catch can that has a breather filter of the same size. (maybe apples/oranges but fwiw). But, in all honesty, if I could easily get the old breather tube off of the L24 and get that plug out of the L28, I'd do it. I'm just don't want to screw something up. Another question regarding this is do I remove the vac line that used to go to the crank breather and cap it off?

I took it out with the insulator and crossmember on the trans, then took them off once outside the car. I did it that way too when I did the trans swap last year. I guess you can do it either way. Doing it the way you suggest probably would make it easier to mount the insulator on the trans and also get the engine/trans in/out of the car.

Thanks guys. The car is pretty insanely clean to begin with(body was fully restored in 2010), so not to much work needed in the engine bay to get it that clean. But,there was an exhaust manifold leak and the head gasket leaking oil, so that created a bit of grime everywhere. I actually did get a new trans insulator. I put that on the trans mount and cleaned up the whole thing this weekend too. I just bought the K&N pump from MSA. Gonna wire that in and find somewhere to mount it this weekend. Talked to the trans shop this morning. They haven't touched my trans I told them I really want it by this weekend. So, we'll see. I'd rather put the engine/trans in together, so I can align them outside the car...plus I don't know if I have enough clearance on my jack stands to put the trans in from the bottom.

Made some great progress this weekend. Probably going to install the engine/trans this Friday night as long as the trans is done being rebuilt by then. Might have this thing fired up before Xmas! Still plenty to do but here it what I got done this weekend... -Old L24 all stripped down and put in the crate -Valves adjusted -New engine mounts installed -Spark plugs gapped/installed -Alternator bracket cleaned/painted/installed -Valve cover polished/installed -Breather filter installed -Old long carb studs removed from L24 intake to put on N36 intake. -New intake/exhaust studs installed -Oil Filter/pressure sensor installed -Fuse installed for fuel pump -Steam cleaned engine bay and installed new connectors for reverse switch and temp sensor -Painted brake booster -Cleaned alternator -Cleaned/painted fuel rail -Cleaned painted heat shield -other stuff I probably forgot...anyways...some pics.... IMG_5496 by blodi, on Flickr IMG_5498 by blodi, on Flickr IMG_5501 by blodi, on Flickr IMG_5486 by blodi, on Flickr IMG_5505 by blodi, on Flickr IMG_5508 by blodi, on Flickr IMG_5507 by blodi, on Flickr IMG_5511 by blodi, on Flickr

The engine is high compression. The L engine calculator with F54/E31 flat pistons and 40 bore put it at 10.43. My engine has a thicker 2mm headgasket, but the head looks to have been shaved so I'm thinking it is in that 10.5-11 range. The seller told me he was told it was 11.0 compression when he bought it but he wasn't sure. He said he was told it was streetable, but, would just need the timing dialed back for pump gas. As I mentioned earlier, Joe at American Cam said it was a aggressive street cam and that it is basically the most aggressive cam you would want to use on the street. But he certainly said it was streetable. He did say all the power was north of 3K rpm. Only a few mentions that I can find online of this 071 cam including this one... "i have a 76 280z with a 071 cam. from american cam its a 300 duration and it runs good with the fuel on the rich side."

Got the L24 out last night! Went super smooth. Got the new engine out of the crate and on the stand too. Going to take the trans in for rebuilt on Monday. IMG_5346 by blodi, on Flickr IMG_5349 by blodi, on Flickr IMG_5352 by blodi, on Flickr IMG_5354 by blodi, on Flickr IMG_5357 by blodi, on Flickr IMG_5358 by blodi, on Flickr IMG_5360 by blodi, on Flickr

Searching around a bit, it seems others have blocked off the block breather and it's "ok" since the block breathes up to the head/valve cover and as long as you have venting there, you are ok. So I'm just gonna leave it blocked I guess and run a k&n breather on the valve cover or keep the hose to the airbox. Yeah, I think that's just some JB weld or something there. Yeah, those plugs are something that Larry developed. He told me a bit about them on the phone. He said he would run into problems with the factory plugs leaking so these bolt into place and can be resbuilt/resealed? I don't really want to remove them and create a leak to investigate them though.

Question: The new motor has the block crankcase breather port blocked off with a plug. Is it advisable to run it this way? I was either going to plum it back to the airbox like the current setup or run a K&N breather on it. IMG_5338 by blodi, on Flickr

F54 flat tops. Confirmed with a bore scope. Should be some healthy compression in this thing.

I had that same debate about keeping the L24. But, I'm no engine builder and this L28 was too good of a deal to pass up. I've never been one to shy away from more power either. If you do that L28 it sound like it will be pretty similar to what I have here. Speaking of the E31 head. Looking at the only other photo I can find of one with the "E31" marking...and then looking at mine...I think my head has been shaved...thus the thicker head gasket to bring down compression....If you look at the distance between the "JAPAN" and "E31" markings and the bottom of the head...mine has basically no distance.... Photo I found online.... Mine.... IMG_3897 by blodi, on Flickr

Yeah, i was lucky to find the car. Two owners ago the guy dumped a fortune into having it restored. Really the only thing that is tired looking on the car is the engine. So...fixing that! Gonna really take my time and clean everything up as it goes back together. Looks like you have a good project going on there yourself! What are the specs on your engine?

Lets get this party started! Got a healthy start on the swap this extended weekend. Everything drained/disconnected and removed that needs to be. Basically ready to pull the engine now. I really enjoy working on this car...everything is so simple/straightforward. Going to go borrow a hoist and stand from a friend this week so I can pull the engine this weekend. Oh, as mentioned above by Grannyknot, I did measure the headgasket it and it is a 2mm...so the compression it probably lower than what I thought...unless the head was shaved at some point. Not sure how to find that out though. Progress Pics... Before... IMG_5282 by blodi, on Flickr IMG_5284 by blodi, on Flickr After.... IMG_5325 by blodi, on Flickr IMG_5323 by blodi, on Flickr IMG_5322 by blodi, on Flickr

Good to know! I think Lumens hit the nail on the head below on the note.... That has to be it! All I can make out is "#1 dis" so...must be set to #1. I assume once I bolt my distributor on it'll be ok then to turn over...obviously with oil and such. http://www.americancustomcam.com/index.htm I spoke with Joe there and he was extremely helpful and gave me all the specs on the cam. He says its a "very popular cam" "sound awesome at idle" "makes no power below 3K, but then just pulls like crazy" and its "a very aggressive street/moderate race cam"....seems to make sense with the 300 duration and 500 lift specs he gave me on it.

I would think so too. Larry seemed to think he did. Here is the only port shot if you guys can tell anything by it... IMG_3900 by blodi, on Flickr That's is possible. I can maybe try to measure it with my calipers and see how thick it is. The guy I bought it from thought he was told the compression was "11:1" I didn't really buy that. The L engine calculator put it at 10.43 with the E31 head, flat tops, and .040 bore. That seems to echo my what I've learned. He seems to really know his stuff and has certainly done a lot of work it seems. But yes, it was hard to track him down. And he doesn't really seem to have ever tried to get his name out there at all. Also, here is a better shot of that "don't turn over" tape on the engine.....you guys tell me if you can make anything out of it? IMG_3894 by blodi, on Flickr

Good to know on the powerband. Yeah, mine really isn't worth taking past 6K. Sounds like porting was somewhat limited as Larry told me this was more than likely a vintage car engine so there were limits I guess on how much porting could be done. I don't know enough about it to be sure. And as far as the valve...only way of knowing would be to take off the head most likely. I don't want to screw the engine up at all by doing that. Yes, it does say "Do not turn over" and the rest of it is smeared and illegible. So I have no idea why it says that. Larry had no idea either and says that tape wasn't from him. Unless someone it just means the crate or "hey dummy, there is no oil in this engine". Everything looks good and in place up top. Maybe once I get it on an engine stand I can pop off the oil pan and make sure everything looks good below. I figure this engine had seen race duty before with this same build and was then refreshed to it's current state. The pistons have a bit of carbon on them so they have certainly seen use but the cylinder walls still have cross honing marks on them...as seen with my borescope. I guess it can't hurt to put in a zinc additive?

Wow, I wouldn't have known that. Thanks! I'll have to pick up some longer studs. I quick search reveals that using the thicker spacers seems to be the way to go.

Here is the graph from my dyno the other day. Again stock engine other than a pertronix ignition and MSA 2.5 inch exhaust. ZDyno101015 by blodi, on Flickr I forgot to mention I also picked up an N36 intake manifold as I've read it should pick up some hp over the 240 intake. The specs on my 071 American Custom Cam.... Lift:500 Duration:300. Should be pretty stout.

This is great! I'm going to start on my removal/replacement in a few weeks. Printed this out. Thanks!

Really? Man, wish I had known that. Live and learn.