blodi

Ok thanks! Do you run the ballast resistor too? I didn't think about the cap and rotor. I'll check tonight and see if mine fit by chance.

280ZX dizzy is here. Looking at the wiring diagrams I found. Do I need to switch over to a 3.0 Ohm coil or can I stick with my current 1.5 Ohm and Ballast Resistor setup? Anyone know? I remember trying to delete the resistor and use a 3.0 ohm coil before and the tach would go wacky at mid-high rpms.

The car really didn't want to start/idle well with the gap opened up to .030" So I put the #1 screw back in and tightened it back up. 280ZX dizzy shows up tomorrow so I'll try that out.

OK, I marked this up so its a bit more clear... Dizzy by blodi, on Flickr 1 and 2 hold the pertronix plate (4) to the dizzy plate (6) and it cannot move around from there. I can move 3 around a bit, but it can't move 4 at all. 5 is fixed to 4 with rivets. 7 and 8 both did need to be snugged down a bit. What I did last night is removed 1, adjusted the gap and tightened down 2. Not sure if it will hold in position with just #2 in place, but it allowed me to open the gap.

Yeah, but the two other countersunk screws prevent the plate from moving at all. Its' fixed in position by those two. I removed one of them and adjusted the gap. I'll see how it runs Friday as I'm bring the car in for a car show here at work.

Ok. So the sensor to rotor gap is tiny...less than half what it should be. I see no way of adjusting it either on this setup. The two counter sunk screws hold the pertronix into position and there is nothing slotted to allow adjustment. I can just use one of the screws and that way angle it to adjust the gap.

All good points....I'll inspect tonight. Any idea on the gap setting? I just installed a pertronix like a month ago on another car of mine, but probably didn't save the little clear "feeler gauge" they send with it.

Try it now....should be fixed. In any case...ordered the new dizzy.

Is this play “normal” in the dizzy? IMG_3974 by blodi, on Flickr

Ok. Found it way cheaper at Summit.. https://www.summitracing.com/parts/aaz-31-1002/applications Found some decent install instructions as well. I'll order one up and give it a whirl! Will my stock 240 tach work ok with this swap? I think I read they arent' compatible and that is why I opted for the pertronix.

For a 280ZX..I need the dizzy itself like this... https://www.ebay.com/itm/Distributor-Cardone-31-1002-Reman/253366339964?fits=Model%3A280ZX&epid=74256721&_trkparms=ispr%3D1&hash=item3afdcf897c:g:4RIAAOSwX6dblobb&enc=AQADAAAB4KX%2FKt4E1xf3SDqEdBclaYbknJR1D7xxSyWAHWyAwd3iiP23x1ImQ9W3smU2bYu1PB2xzFApuJfqbvy2KPKERnHx5uWwMz3eTbR88AJ3UKzBwhx5N6tcs%2BkOUsxVKvB66n9KFO%2FU9b7sNiWIkWeOzwnEqcM3ktuCsG9O5zSov%2FobznkrfgdYiSOy2fYT%2FMZ87wuJsBgWei%2BtOaQtIdQ5Auqdl5Tq67B9rTXB3qVoauV%2FJgp66TWueMVaMaar7VB6gpT5ZIflVj6U5Xz9EGkCHIktF4xqsZ89D8R70g%2FqSTECPpyrCNN4RVivofl%2B5hRwYmlGq1dQ8HOZ0Q5jxPZedVIHIqw9Lze6YVcUemU5KhzBVqDyCOvJb7hWnNoOO4KcGDHH6HF6JlFSv9Vi26RBKjcpiwC%2ByQ36Vtl3rZwNcoahFW2qbwjKeA2nPbz4bA35yjPYGQQvLxNLjNTokgQVAhJ3Fe7WG3M5J1phBup6awZHoO%2F3TLMPZ1KX8FX7cOS6BKy5I4A%2FVIdiKC5oTdeS7p1X7NcTahOVEvhktufFdI%2BFrnTi30GSuLsk2EnnsNlqH1ST4ytLy1swHun9dNx6ywfq8ox0nYufMZRQUmMJ%2B5HLn6wirXNREEXH9IVkC1Kuag%3D%3D&checksum=25336633996461ef88fef06644f7a1a438860a0e4a19 And what else? Do I put my pertronix components into that?

I'll try to take a look. The whole engine was built by Ritalon Engineering. No exact idea on compression. It runs a 2mm headgasket but, the had has been shaved.

L28 F54/Flattops, .040 bore, E31 Head which is ported/etc, 500/300 cam, 6-1 header, pertronix igntition. I looked at the logs last night from the dyno and they are basically identical to the last ones I posted.

They didn’t. Just had him record on mine. I know 5 more hp is killing me! Ok. It’s an odd issue that I did notice the last week or so on the road 6k+ it starts breaking up. You can hear it in the video. Power was leveling off before the break up, so I don’t think I’m missing out on more hp. But, still need to sort it out. Oh we tried upping the fuel pressure for one last run and that had no impact on the break up. After I noticed it last week I backed off the timing a couple degrees and I must say that the butt dyno noticed an improvement. Had it at 40 degrees at full advance before (that’s what Larry told me) and I backed it down to probably 36-38 now. Is seems there isn’t the same lag from idle to main circuit there used to be. So I think you may be right on your earlier request to back off timing.

Results are in! 195 rwhp and 175 Rwtq. Stock engine/carb setup made 128 rwhp on the same dyno 3 years ago. It was breaking up a bit at the top end. Not sure if that is from fuel or ignition. I’m not running a return line from the carbs...should I? Or do I need an MSD or something ? Just running a perteonix electric point conversion. I still need to download the logs from the wideband. 330DCAB8-2A0E-4588-87DB-92005E03940D.MOV

I got bumped from the Dyno until next Saturday now. Still haven't had a chance to look at the cam position. I do have a timing chain wedge tool if I do get a chance to look at it.

Now I found this info....I had no idea.....interesting.... https://www.zcar.com/forum/10-70-83-tech-discussion-forum/125282-cam-timing.html I can try to take a look this weekend.

I didn't realize there were different positions.

I just have it scheduled for two power pulls. To do any tuning you need to rent the dyno for like half a day $$$. Cam sprocket is stock and non adjustable.

Going to the dyno on Monday finally. I'll be sure to post the results. Car has been running great!

Some logs from the other day.... 51819-1 by blodi, on Flickr 51819-2 by blodi, on Flickr

Cruise is nice and lean...I ordered 65F12 jets to try out. The 70F9's ran too rich and cruise. Idle is currently 12.5 or so. I can try adjusting the timing. Got partway though installing the 35 chokes. I'll report back.

Did a couple more logs...same as before. I'm going to put the 35 chokes back in since we were happy with the results there. I think my low speed chugging issue is just more related to idle jet. The idle is rich ~12.5 but just off idle and driving around low speed like 25mph the car chugs a bit..and afr's are high 15's or so. Pulling up on the choke lever smooths it right out.

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Thanks. Well, lets wait until I can test in a bit warmer weather and see what the results are before I change up anything just yet.