blodi

I actually tried a couple different setups beyond that last one posted over the weekend. I took a log of one that was too lean up top and then tried a different setup that I didn’t get a log of but it looked really good just watching the readout. I’ll try to get a log of it later this week if we get a dry day here.

Ok, back in business. Here is F2 140/185 fuel level set at 29mm (the front carb I had to lower the floats further than the other two by a few mils to get the fuel at the right height) and .35 exhaust jet. The lean spike at the beginning, which can be felt as a stumble when I first hit the throttle, is that the exhaust jets not being 00? Its been that way the last few runs...wasn't there before. 8318 by blodi, on Flickr

Car is back up and running. No noise. ?

Head is repaired. This time with some "staking" to hold the valve seat in place. So pretty much impossible for the seat to come out again. A new head would be really tough as this is a rare E31 that has also been ported/shaved/etc.... Hoping to have the car back up and running by this weekend.

Welp, back from vaca and installed a new intake/exhaust gasket....still the noise. Got the bore scope out and the damn #4 intake valve seat came out again! Agh.

Replaced manifold gasket and drove 1/2 mile and once again I got a leak. Out of town for the next two weeks..I'll try to replace the gasket again when I'm back and we'll go from there.

Yes, my cruise has been pretty nice- 14.5-16ish depending on the setup. I'll put the .35 exhaust back in. I did notice a slight stumble with the .65 when driving around. I did put copper spray on the both sides of the gasket. But, I used an OEM gasket this time and MSA says that's a no-no with their headers. I could see two leaks when it was on the car ,but there were 6 I spotted once I had it all apart. So MSA gasket one should be here any day. That's what I had on there before and had zero issues.

Great data analyzing! Still waiting for the replacement manifold gasket...everything is apart right now. I got your message as well..sorry, it was a busy weekend. I will get it all back together and do 29mm fuel level again....F2 140/180 or so...I have to see what I have for air jets, I forgot. What accel/exhaust jets should I use?

^Thats impressive chickenman! I got a response from Leon on hybridz: “Hi Ryan, the problem lies in the emulsion tube. I did what I could with that setup, I believe the air jets were down to 110 on that graph in an effort to try to limit the amount of airflow through the e-tube which is part of the issue. I'm now running Keith Franck's VF tubes but haven't been back to the dyno. It should cure the fat dip that Weber tubes tend to produce. I used Keith's old jetting on my last Z and AFR was flat all the way across the powerband. I plan to dyno again "soon"...” Debating my next step. What fuel level should I be targeting? 27mm? New manifold gasket arrived today but it was bent in shipping. ☹️ The wait continues.....

So if we kinda say that its "normal" to have that shape to the overall pull (like I've said, the car generally pulls nice and runs great on all these setups...fairly imperceptible to my butt dyno)...the flattest...and closest to the 12.5-13.0 range seems to be either the f16 160/230 combo... or the F16 155/225 combo.....

Sorry, the pics didn't post. Full thread I found is here... http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/123487-compare-your-dyno-sheets-here/ Mainly turbo cars, but the ones I referenced above was the post by "AZGhost623" on page one and "Leon" on page 3.

Another one with triple Weber’s..... maybe the dip is “normal”?

I found this. L28 stroker with triple 45s making over 210at the wheels ......

^Did they say if that was normal or not? Forgot to mention I have had an exhaust manifold gasket leak and now it sprung a second leak today. Ordered a replacement gasket and need to install that before I proceed.

Ill work on the fuel height. I double checked them when I got home...front carb was ~28mm and the rear two were ~30mm. Here is a pull I did today just fwiw.......F2 140/240 and 65 exhaust jets......... 6518 by blodi, on Flickr

Found this info elsewhere... I've got the plastic floats....I had them at 14...now at 16.....I'll try ~12.5. Weber Redline bulletin circa 1985-1990"the float height is set by bending the tab on the float ball.....The height 14mm is measured from the gasket to the top of the PLASTIC float, without the weight of the float depressing the ball in the needle valve. After setting float height, set float drop for 1.5mm of travel. (of float). Adjust by bending the tab on the float resting on the outside of the seat area.FUEL PRSSURE 2 to 2.5 psi.Weber Redline Carburetor Applications ca. 2002-2203DCOE...Early style brass floats 8 to 8.5mm, at radius of float to lid with gasket. Late style plastic float 12.5 to 13mm at extreme tip of float. All setings are gasket to float.2.5 to 3 psi.For agressive off road use, float drop s/b limited to 1. to 1.5 mm.

So do I raise the float level 4mm to get to that point? Do they correlate like that? Wouldn't raising the fuel level make it richer overall? Just learnin.

Fuel level is at ~31mm measured with caliper. I pulled the jets then turned on the pump for a couple seconds to make up for the lack of volume of the jets.

What is the proper way to measure the fuel level? Remove the main jet assembly and put something down there to mark it?

So my own self assessment is that the accel circuit has little to do with the wot pulls. It does impact drivability though. I’m going to put my leanest 65 exhaust pump jets back in. I’m going to put the 140 mains back in to lean it up again. I’ll leave the float level where it is as that seemed to have no impact either.

OK, F2 150/240 and the accell circuit "blocked" with the floats dropped 2mm to 14.... 6218 by blodi, on Flickr

Accel circuit is blocked, still have the F2 150/240 combo in and I dropped the floats from 12mm to 14mm. I also re-synced the carbs, the front one was out of whack after having everything apart. Now, just waiting for a dry day and we'll see what's what.

ok...just educating myself more....the value on the intake/exhaust valve refers to the hole that is on the side of the valve like this..... I forgot my SD card in my home computer last night...so couldn't take a log this morning...but overall...still looks very rich.

I put a 65 exhaust jet in. The one that I had in there did not have any marking on it. I think that's why I thought it was a 00. But it clearly still has a valve function to it. I'll report back tomorrow.

I guess it actually makes sense reading this from Pegasus. I guess I'll put back in the exhaust jet... "The accelerator pump dischage valve (also called the intake and exhaust valve) bleeds off some of the accelerator pump output back into the float bowl. This controls how much fuel is actually delivered to the pump jet. Once you have selected your accelerator pump jet size, you can use this valve to fine-tune the output of the pump. If the accelerator pump jet is a little too large, one of these valves can get you to a setting "in between" jet numbers. Discharge valve sizing, similar to Weber jet sizing, refers to the bleed hole size in .01mm increments. The 40 discharge valve bleeds fuel back into the float bowl as if it had a 0.40mm hole. The 100 size bleeds like a 1.00mm diameter hole, delivering the least fuel to the jet. (The 100 size makes a 50 size accelerator pump jet behave more like a 46 size.) The 000 size has no bleed hole, so it forces all of the accelerator pump volume to the accelerator pump jet. The closer your accelerator pump jet is to being too large, the larger the discharge valve required. The closer the jet is to correct, the smaller the valve required. "