blodi

I think maybe also helping on mine is the fact that I kept the stock flywheel...so probably helps it idle a bit smoother and helps it a bit in the low RPMs. I know I'm leaving HP on the table by doing so..but I also wanted to keep the clutch as stock as possible. I have a really crazy firm RPS clutch in my NSX...and it just becomes such a pain to deal with when you get stuck in traffic.

It had been together for several years. I don't know how long exactly. I never put anything in the cylinders and it was nice and loose when I turned it over by hand while doing the valve adjustment.

Well..Friday night, we got it all buttoned up...colortuned..timing set...carbs synced and put the hood on... . I put a few miles on it and thought the timing must be off or something.....it just sounded "off". Came back to the garage, checked the timing...which looked good. Then I looked down and saw the #5 plug wire just hanging there....doh! As you can imagine...ran a hell of a lot better after I put that back on! Saturday I drove it a bunch and now have 115 miles on it. So...it time to change the oil when I get a chance this week. But, so far..no leaks, smoke or any issues at all! Runs very nice, pulls smoothly. I've obviously been keeping the revs down while it breaks in, but it is already obvious how much more power this engine has. The big cam by the way...seems to pull on the street down low just fine! Totally streetable. The idle is certainly rougher and more lopey than stock,(which I think sounds awesome)... but it smooths right out as soon as you come off idle. I know it will really shine once I'm able to really let it pull to redline. Can't wait to drive it more! A couple pics...my friend it editing together a video he shot of the whole engine install and first test drive..should have it sometime this week.... IMG_6187 by blodi, on Flickr IMG_6186 by blodi, on Flickr IMG_6188 by blodi, on Flickr

Since the weather hasn't been favorable here I haven't had a chance to start the car up again to tune/drive it. So this weekend I got the interior back together and installed my new Retrosound Model 2 stereo. The car had an older model Retrosound in int when I bought it but it died last spring so I just put an old CD player in that I had laying around. But I missed the look and the features of the Retrosound, so I snagged one up a couple weeks ago. Also, you can just see the JDM replica "Z" horn pad that I got from MSA and installed a month or so ago. Untitled by blodi, on Flickr

Yeah, as I said when I posted that pic, that was "before" I adjusted them and moved them all one post clockwise. So now mine look like yours. For some reason, they ran fine that way on the old engine. ...which leads me to my news....Got it fired up!!! It turned out it was a combination of things...the location of the plug wires on the distributor which I had already figured out, the rear float or needle was sticking and although it had fuel in the line...there was none in the bowl, and the chokes were not fully engaging. I didn't realize you need to pre-tension them a bit before tightening the bolt on the cable. So once I got all that sorted...she came to life on her own! I got her up to temp set the idle timing at 10 degrees and synced the carbs..by that time it was getting late. So, this weekend I'm going to get the fuel mixture dialed in with my colortune and set the full timing. Then time to start getting some break in miles on it if the roads are dry enough. Crappy i phone audio...but that big cam sounds awesome! IMG_6113 by blodi, on Flickr

Mine seemed overly heavy last night when I pushed them up. That's when I double checked the fluid level. I also made sure when I rebuilt them to just do them one at a time so the pistons would stay matched with the domes. Yes, the nozzles are set at 2.5 turns down. I need to double check on the choke, but they were free and moving when I installed the carbs.

I'll set it back to 10 degrees tonight. But, yes, that's what I meant about full advance. The pistons do lift in the carbs. But, they take a decent amount of effort when I did it by hand..which I thought seemed different from before. So...maybe you are onto something there. I put new fluid (from MSA) in them to the correct level. Maybe I'll try to lift them manually while someone cranks the car. Or I can just remove the dampers temporarily. When I unscrewed the dampers they moved much much easier. It certainly seems to want all the fuel it can get. So, if the pistons aren't lifting at all...that would mean it's not getting fuel. I'm also going to try draining the carbs and putting fresh gas in the carbs tonight.

Yup that's exactly how mine looked. Here is my rotor at TDC with a fair amount of advance.... i checked the timing with the distributor at full advance wit my timing light and manually turning the engine over. It hit at 20 degrees btdc. So I guess my timing setup is fine and I have more than enough advance. I pulled the fuel line off the rear carb and checked to make sure the pump was flowing and it was working really well. I pulled the fuel lines off the jets and both bowls had plenty of fuel in them. In picked up some starter fluid on the way home. Each time I sprayed it in the carbs it fired up right away for a few seconds. So I think I'm having a fuel issue. Maybe even bad gas? Fuel is 3+ months old and I didn't put stabilizer in it as I thought I'd maybe be draining it to install the fuel pump. Seems like it wouldn't go bad that fast. It's not gelled up or anything. But I might try to fill the carbs with fresh fuel tomorrow and see what happens.

Ok, good to know. I'm going to play with it a bit more tonight and also loosen the underneath bolt for the timing adjustment so maybe I can get a bit more advance. It certainly wanted to start more with the distributor fully advanced.

Another thought I just had.... I am using the 240 distributor....but now I'm running the F54 block...would I need a ZX distributor to get correct timing?

The pertronix doesn't use any different cap...same ol cap. I did replace the cap/rotor last summer just to have a fresh set on there...they must have gotten me an odd ball one..and I know I tossed the old one...wish I hadn't now. I ordered up a new 240 and 280 cap...even though I probably just need the 240...but just want to make sure. Hopefully it will be here in a couple days. I'm dying to hear this thing run too!

The pics were before I rotated them clockwise. The #1 was going to the #5 position (just below the coil wire in my photo.) Now it looks like your photo. I could take a new pic to confirm. EDIT: Here is a photo from the cap in the old engine so you can see the #1 is going to lower spot...But, I just noticed in your photo how the the cap clip is between 1/5 and on mine its directly lined up to the #1 spot...odd...maybe I have a screwy distributor cap? Which one would I need...looks like there are 3 different ones for 240/280 on MSA's site. Also FWIW, I have a pertronix ignition. IMG_5286 by blodi, on Flickr

Well, a lot of progress this weekend but one major hangup...can't get it fired up...need suggestions on that. But, got the engine/trans/everything in! No major hiccups with installing everything. Went in smoothly. Had a few friends stop by throughout the day that gave a helping hand. We did it all on Saturday...about 6 hours of work. Finally we got the car down off the stands...pushed to towards the front of the garage and tried to fired it up...it wasn't even trying to fire. I looked at the dizzy and realized the timing was off for some reason. When I pulled the dizzy off the old engine, I just undid the two bottom bolts so that the timing would stay exactly where it was. We called it a night as we were exhausted. I did a bit of research that night and realized the rotor was pointing in the right position with the engine at TDC...but for some reason, my plug wires needed to be all rotated one spot clockwise. My old engine must have had the timing shaft in the wrong spot and had the wires moved to compensate. Anyways, I got the plug wires put into the correct position and the car does now try to fire up with full choke and full throttle. But, still won't run on its own. So...it either still a bit of a timing issue, which I've tried moving the timing around to and it really only wants to try to fire with a decent amount of advance in it. Or, it could be a fuel issue. The new pump is working and filling up the filter, I can smell gas and even see a bit in the carb after all that cranking. I am getting spark, I pulled a plug and checked that. I think I'm going to check the float levels again and timing see if that yields anything. Other than that....what do you guys suggest? Pics... IMG_6103 by blodi, on Flickr IMG_6102 by blodi, on Flickr IMG_6083 by blodi, on Flickr IMG_6104 by blodi, on Flickr IMG_6100 by blodi, on Flickr IMG_6101 by blodi, on Flickr IMG_6086 by blodi, on Flickr IMG_6087 by blodi, on Flickr 2016-02-22 (1) by blodi, on Flickr IMG_6092 by blodi, on Flickr 2016-02-22 by blodi, on Flickr IMG_6093 by blodi, on Flickr 2016-02-22 (2) by blodi, on Flickr

Finally got my trans back after taking forever to figure out the comp synchros. I expect to make big progress over the next week or so.

The Nissan synchro did work! Trans guy called last night and the trans is done. I'll be picking it up tonight. Hopefully installing engine/trans next weekend.

Ok, got the Nissan part. It does measure 8.5mm in width. Dropped it off today at the shop...hoping to have it back this week and get the engine/trans back in the car. I'll confirm for sure once the car is up and running, but it looks like this should be it! IMG_6038 by blodi, on Flickr

Yeah, I see what you mean. The nissan one does look like a more robust material. I did get the full MSA stud/hardware kit to mount the intake/header so I'd have all new stuff. Good! I have some of that. I'll give it a quick spray before install. Thanks! That clears that up.

Going to be installing my L28 in the next couple weeks as detailed in my other thread, but wanted to get a consensus (or at least opinions) on what gasket to use for the header and intake. I have a new 6-1 MSA coated header going on. It came with the MSA gasket. I also ordered an OEM Nissan gasket with the metal portions for the exhaust. MSA states that the header will leak with the OEM gasket on their site. Others say that the MSA gaskets are crap and use the OEM one. I did find one thread though that mentions that MSA possibly upgraded their gaskets in 2005 or so. So maybe the newer gaskets are ok? If I do use the OEM gasket...which side goes where? The metal on each side is different. What have you guys done on yours with headers and what has been the outcome? Thanks!

Another update on this saga..... My trans guy installed the Porsche ring...but realized it had a bit of play. He then took it back out and found that the diameter was correct, however, the width was too narrow. The rings in the trans are 8.5mm and the Porsche ring was 7.5mm. So...after searching even more and looking into the Roadster rings...I stumbled accross this pdf for the old Nissan Motorsports catalog with a schematic for every comp trans.... https://docs.google.com/folderview?id=0ByCvxnHNk90SZTAwYTI4Y2YtNWM4Yi00ZjUxLTkyZTYtNjQ2YTJjOTcxNDAw Finally got a part number! 32611-14600 Found it online and ordered it last night. Hopefully this is right this time. I'll post with updates.

Been making a little progress on some stuff while I am still waiting to get my trans back. Installed poly steering rack bushings and cleaned up the whole rack. Then I opened up and cleaned up the intake manifold and header ports a bit to match the enlarged head ports. Hopefully getting my trans back this week...will install engine/trans then this weekend or next most likely. IMG_5975 by blodi, on Flickr IMG_5970 by blodi, on Flickr IMG_5974 by blodi, on Flickr Soon!........ IMG_5976 by blodi, on Flickr

Synchro came in yesterday...going to drop it off tonight at the trans shop on the way home. I'll keep everyone posted if it works.... IMG_5907 by blodi, on Flickr IMG_5909 by blodi, on Flickr IMG_5910 by blodi, on Flickr

Got it from Autohausaz. So, yes, going to test the theory. I'll confirm if it works or not. Hopefully it does and it helps others down the road.

OK, so I got the measurement of the synchros...they are the 78.0mm versions mentioned above. Part# 91130230108 for those in the future. Ordered one up and hopefully that does the trick. I'll keep you guys posted as to how it works. I'm also going to order that Swepco 201 fluid to put in.

Well, let me know if they are interested. It'll be a little while til I get the right synchro ring and get the trans back. Once I have it back though...I'll be wanting to just put it back in the car with the new engine. Then I'd have to find another standard wide ratio 5 speed.

Gotcha, yeah, that makes sense now. So for the Porsche synchro rings...sounds like there are two possible sizes...I'll have him measure mine today... http://forums.pelicanparts.com/4279865-post6.html The Porsche patent syncros are VERY sensitive to the installed size you are looking for. Additionally they must be used with the Porsche sliding sleeve and the Porsche engagement dog ring splined onto the free gear. These are sufficiently sensitive that in some cases, simply turning over a slightly worn syncro can prevent proper shifting. Needless to say you must use the Porsche stops and bands Even the side clearance from the circlip is important. There are two basic sizes: the 87.1 and 88.1 mm ones used on the 1st and 2nd gears of a 915 and the 78.0 mm ones used on the 3-4-5 gears of a 915 and all 901/911/914 gears. These are “free” dimensions with the syncro ring not installed on the gear. Acceptable diameters for installed syncros are in the range of 86.20- 86.25 mm for the large 915 1-2 syncros. This is with the syncro ring bottomed under the engagement dogs and the side clearance between the syncro ring and the circlip. Porsche specifies 86.20 mm to 86.54 mm. Normal diameters are about 76.25-76.35 mm for all the others with Porsche specification 76.12 mm to 76.48 mm. How is this Alfa retrofit accomplished? Does it use the Porsche hub for the sliding sleeve? How is it splined onto the shaft? How is the engagement dog ring attached to the free gear? Does the shift fork properly fit the sliding sleeve (side clearance spec is ? How much of the shift fork engages the circumference of the sliding sleeve? Porsche uses about 180º while some other manufacturers only use 30º or so. Best, Grady