blodi

Ordered 140/240.

F2 150/230...... 10217 by blodi, on Flickr Thinking 140's....gotta order em.

Threw in the 150 main. Did a pull on the way in this morning...still way rich. I'll get a log on the way home and post. Doing some research I found this thread which makes me think the overall shape I'm getting is basically "normal"... http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/111194-just-started-playing-with-innovate-lm-2-on-mikuni-44-29l-stroker/?page=3 Might be that I go back to F16's and run either the 155/225 or 160/230 combo. Might be about as good as it gets. Then I can start trying to play with the accel pump stuff.

F2 and 160/230..... much richer overall...but...flatter too! 92817 by blodi, on Flickr Im thinking my next step might be keep the F2's in and swap in 150 mains to lean it back up overall. Other things I noticed....F11 and F16 are very similar at highway cruise`mid to high 14's. F2 is a bit leaner...in the 15's....good for mpg. F2 also is much richer when giving partial throttle. F11 seemed to bring the power on quicker when at light to moderate acceleration around town.

F2's look mighty rich during the pull I did this morning. Logs tonight.

Also, I went ahead and installed the F2's tonight. So, I'll have that data tomorrow.

F11's with the 160/230 combo 92717 by blodi, on Flickr

PM me and we'll set something up.....however the "supercar" is sidelined right now with a substantial oil leak.

I have an auto 3 speed trans and torque convertor pulled from my 71 when I did a manual swap. 2nd gear didn't engage, might just need adjustment, not sure. Free to whomever wants to come pick it up! Moving soon and need it gone. IMG_2999 by blodi, on Flickr

F11's are in! Took a log this morning on the way into work. I'll get another one on the way home and upload tonight. But on watching the gauge it seems much richer throughout...though maybe flatter? F16 vs F11.... Untitled by blodi, on Flickr

Ok......160/230 again....much more inline with what we would expect....maybe overlay this with the 155/225 and see which we think is the better baseline to begin e-tube testing...... 92617 by blodi, on Flickr

Will do. I'll pop it back in tonight.

Ok, electrical issue sorted (bad alternator) and back at it. Did a log tonight here...hot and humid out......165/230 92117 by blodi, on Flickr 155/225 still seems best...might start there again and then start testing the e tubes.

Installed new MSA 60amp alternator and VR bypass plug.....fixed! No issues at all! Running great. I guess the alternator was on its way out (after only a year, oddly) and just got progressively worse really fast. Back to Weber tuning now! Thanks for the input guys!

I actually did order the MSA upgrade alt and VR bypass. Going to try to install tonight. I'll report back.

That looks to be only on internal regulated alternators..from what I'm seeing? Looks like the alternator I have is a 50 amp? I'm thinking of upgrading to MSA's 60 amp internally regulated alternator...that would trouble shoot the alternator and VR it seems....

Attached pics of the alt. Hard to get a pic with the coolant hose running right over it. The light goes out.... or rather I should say really dim....with either the vr or alt or both unplugged.

No. It was installed by a shop. I've put a few thousand miles on it though and it's been fine until now. Is there a way to tell if it is internally or externally regulated? Just went and tried. No luck. Nothing close to the pedal at. It really started as an RPM thing and not a throttle position thing. Good thought though.

I've searched and found nothing (with a solution) to my problem. 71 240z...built L28...triple webers....pertronix ignition Last week I took the car up through the revs and the engine sputtered a bit and my tach and center gauges went dead. This problem came out of no where. Car has been running great and reliably all year. I replaced the blown fuse and the gauges came back...it stayed fine until I tried flooring it again and once again at high rpm.... it sputtered and the fuse blew. The problem has gotten quickly worse and now the fuse will blow as soon as I turn on the key...without the engine even starting. I've tried hooking up a 12v light to the fuse and unplugged everything associated with that fuse...tach, temp, fuel, water, oil press gauges and turn signals. The test light still stays on when I turn the ignition on. The only thing that makes my test light go off is when I unplug either the voltage regulator or the t plug on the alternator. I replaced both of these last year. I tried again replacing the VR.....no change. I got MSA's fuse box upgrade for good measure...no change. Could it be a bad alternator that would cause this even when the engine isn't running? Like I said, it's only a year old maybe. I did notice that the amp gauge would read a bit high at times then suddenly come back down to a "normal" reading when driving. I'm stumped at this point and am about to take it to a auto electric repair place, but figured I'd ask here and see what you guys think. Thanks!

Nice work duffman! I'd be curious how your afr curve looks. Do you have logging capability? Nice looking setup!

Also, the other E Tubes showed up today! But, until I get this electrical issue sorted...testing is gonna have to wait.

Tried to take logs yesterday....running into a new electrical issue all the sudden. AFRs' looked good up until about 5K (usual lean bump then hovering around 12.-7-12.9) The butt dyno suggested power felt really good. Then at ~5K the engine starts sputtering and the ignition fuse blows and the tach/center gauges all die. So...gotta figure that all out now.

I agree...some odd results. I'm hoping one of the new e tubes flattens the curve. We've never been fully able to flatten it out other than when I put the 238 in.

Put in 165's. I kept the 230 airs. I'll report back tomorrow or Monday with a log. The AFR is 20.9 when I first plug in the Innovate and the car has been sitting for a day or more. So, that tells me it should be calibrated? Yes, all air filters are on and have stayed on through all testing. They are also brand new and should still be really clean.

160/230.... 9-8-17 by blodi, on Flickr Go back to 155/225? Or maybe leave the 160 in and go 160/225?