furypilot

Thank you very much for your post. I will consider the carb conversion. I did have the carbs changed on my 260z to carbs from a 240z. Giant improvement. My 280z is all stock I wonder if changing to carbs would lower its value? I looked at the jenvey website and their kit looks good. I didn't see any type of air cleaner. I guess I would either have to make my own or source one. Do you have any idea what the entire cost of installing the jenvey might be? Thanks Curt

I am giving up trying to fix my 280z fuel injection problems. I am thinking of bringing my car to SoFlo Z Club in Boca Raton. Has anyone on the site ever used them? I couldn't find any referrals on the web. Just trying to get a heads up idea of what they are like to work with. thanks Curt

I am giving up trying to fix my 280z fuel injection problems. I am thinking of bringing my car to SoFlo Z Club in Boca Raton. Has anyone on the site ever used them? I couldn't find any referrals on the web. Just trying to get a heads up idea of what they are like to work with. thanks Curt

I thought the coolant temperature sensor was the one that screws into the block close to where the upper radiator hose attaches to the block. Is the coolant temperature probe you are talking about part of large plug that plugs into the ECU? Thanks!

The ECU replacement is bought from Z Specialties about a year ago. The local sop that installed it said that they could get the engine to die by tapping on the old ECW. The new or rebuild replacement stopped that from happening. The local stop did not have the Fuel Injection Bible, I now have a copy of it. Thank you for sending it to me. I cleaned the coolant temperature connections with a contact cleaning kit and it made no difference. I bought a new coolant probe and plug and will install it tomorrow. What kick plate are you talking about? What contact pins are you talking about? The ones in the sensor? Thank you very much for your post I appreciate your help.,

Sometimes it smokes and some times it doesn't. The water and anti freeze looks fine The tach needle moves up and down as the engine speeds and slows down rhythmically. The tach does not seems high. I replaced the AFM yesterday and checked the plug that might have 10 miles on them. Very sooty black and dripping with fuel. I replaced them and checked the spark as Yarb suggested and would sort of run for 2 to 3 seconds. The spark looks great and the plugs are dripping with fuel. Yarb is sending me a ignition module to try next. Thanks Curt

My 1978 280z that I have owned for over 20 years and was the reliable car I have ever owned. About two years ago it started giving me problems. It would stop for no apparent reason like the key was turned off and would not restart for about 20 to 30 minutes then I would run fine. It turned out the ECU by the drivers left leg was bad. I replaced it and the problem went away. It would run fine and occasionally it would run rough and stop. Some times it will run great and the next time I try to start it it runs very rough and smokes white smoke and will not run over 1200 rpm. The next time I start it it runs fine. The last two times I drove it I ended up having to call a wrecker to get me home. I have done the following to ty to fix the problem: Drained the fuel tank-it was fine Replaced the fuel filter Replaced the fuel pump Replaced all the relays under the black metal box by the battery. Replaced the relay by the glove compartment New plugs Replaced the ECU Cleaned all electrical connections None of these attempts seemed to help except changing the ECU. I have brought it to the best foreign repair place in town and they got it to run better but sometimes it just stops or runs poorly. I have purchased a reworked air control unit and coolant temp sensor and plug but haven't replaced them yet. I recently had to have a back fusion and can't bend for about six more months. I live in Vero Beach and there are no locals shops with experience with Z cars the age of mine. Can anyone recommend a shop in central Florida that could fix my car? Any suggestions will be appreciated. Regards Curt

Thank you for all the helpful info I really appreciate it. Looks like I've got a lot of reading to do. I will post the results.

I can live with it idling like it does. M biggest problem is lack of confidence that I will make it back to the garage. The last two trips ended up with a wrecker. Why does it run well for a while and then either stalls, stops or runs terribly and smokes a lot ? I think there could be an electrical component that breaks down with load or heat. The fuel tank is fine. Installed a new stock fuel pump and filter. I bought a new ICU, all new relays, cleaned the grounds. I am very open to suggestions or ideas. I brought it to a local sports car shop. They have a very good reputation but if the tech can't hook a computer to it they don't know where to turn. Thank you for your post. Curt

I unplugged the cold start valve and it made no difference-I live in Florida so I don't think it is ever needed hear. Where is the auxiliary air regulator? Thanks for your post!

Thanks- I ordered the ignition module from them. Hopefully will fix it or maybe some part of the issue. I started it again today and it ran well. No smoke and it revs nicely. It idles at 750 to 825 or so rhythmically. Starts very easily. I will change out the ignition module and report the results. Electrical intermittent problems drive me crazy. Should I remove the fuel pressure regulator to check if it is leaking? I pulled the hose off on top and it looked dry-really hard to tell if it is leaking by looking in the hole.

I got home last night. This morning I started my car. It ran much better I am not sure why though. The tach would slowly fluctuate between 750-900 RPM. It would also freely rev like it should. Also it was not smoking. Go figure. The next time I go to start it will act up. I have an intermittent issue somewhere. I did unplug the fuel pressure regulator and it appeared to be dry. I bought the ignition control module on ebay. Thank you again for your help. Curt

Thank you for your post, I appreciate your it. I will be back in town late this week. Where can I find a new ignition module? Is the module in the distributor? I will start it and see what the tach is doing and will message you back. thanks curt

I have owned my 1978 280z for about 20 years. It was the most reliable car I have ever owned. About a year ago it would just turn off while I was driving it. I have replaced the following: New stock pump pump had the fuel tank drained-it wasn't bad new fuel filter new relays under the black metal cover in front of the battery new relay behind the glove box (I can't remember the name of it) New computer from Z man in Washington I have ordered a new air control unit After deciding what was wrong with it was beyond me I took it to a local foreign car repair place in town. They got the car to run better by replacing the computer. They said they could tap the top of the old computer and the car would just die. The new one solved that issue. They drove it a couple of times and it would still act up occasionally. I drove it for a week and it died and stranded me. I had it towed back to the shop, They worked on it cleaning some connections. I went and drove it home. Two weeks later I started it and it would not produce than than about 800 rpms. It will not accelerate at all and smokes a good bit. It acts like it is very rich. I down loaded the 280Z Fuel injection bible. I have ordered new temperature probe and new plugs that are located where the top radiator hose attaches. I am getting sort of frustrated with it. Any suggestions will be appreciated. Can anyone recommend a central Florida repair place with Z experience? I live in Vero Beach. Thanks Curt

How about any body out there with a good used compressor?