Chickenman

Earl's Super Stock Synthetic Rubber Hose would also be a good choice for oil breather lines.

I use reinforced forced Hi Temp Silicon hose from Goodyear. Many Big Rig truck parts supplier carry it.. Good quality Silicone hose can be used for both coolant and Vent/PCV lines. Hi-Temp Silcone hose is especially good around exhaust manifolds and Turbochargers. You can also use the re-inforced Silicon Coolant hose from SiliconeIntakes.com. Works fine for vent hoses and PCV hoses. Available in different diameters and colors. http://www.siliconeintakes.com/electric-radiator-cooling-fans/reinforced-silicone-heater-hose-p-642.html

ECS tuning also has a line of Recirculating catch cans for use with PCV systems. Worth a read: ECS Tuning recirculating catch can

A Race car is not a street car. Race cars get frequent oil changes and are run hard all the time. The hard running also burns off moisture that condenses in the crankcase. Street engines are a different matter. Contaminants and acids build up in the oil from blowby and water condensation from short runs. Oil analysis from street vehicles running a PCV system and street vehicles not running a PCV system consistently show rapid degradation of the oil in the VTA systems compared to a properly functioning PCV system. PCV system " deletes" are not a good idea on street engines. It is interesting to note that GM has been running a Centrifugal oil separator on LS engines for several years. You often see centrifugal oil separators on BMW's and other high performance systems. The Mann-Hummel Provent system is becoming very popular with the Forced Induction groups. It incorporated a valve to change airflow direction under boost. https://store.034motorsport.com/catch-can-air-oil-separator-provent-200.html Mann Hummel Provent Technical data Other advantages to a functioning PCV system are improved ring seal and less leakage through seals and gaskets. Negative crankcase pressure is also a desirable feature on Racing motors. Modern Dry sump systems create considerable negative crankcase pressures and substantial improvements in HP have been documented for several decades. Wet Sump race cars will often run Vacuum pumps to generate negative crankcase pressures.

Ah that may explain it. PO put these springs in quite a few years back. I assumed thye were Pro Kits. Thye might be Sport Lines. I'll be putting the Z back on the road by this weekend, so I'll see if I can stick my head under the front and grab some part numbers off the springs. Edit: Now you have me thinking. Maybe they are Black. In my mind's eye they are Red... but I lost my mind many years ago. Sucks to get old!! I need a coffee....

My Eibach's are Red. All Eibachs I have ever seen were Red. Isn't that their corporate color?

^ Just checked MSA. There are different kits for the 240Z and 280Z. Not sure which ones PO put on my car. They are definitely Eibach Pros, but I can't remember the exact spring numbers. Just that the 01's are up front.

This is interesting. I have Eibach Pro's in my 280Z and it doesn't have a nose up attitude at all. New KYB shocks all around. Have Conti DW 225/50x16's on Rewinds. 16 x 7. As you can see the front is lower than the back. Might be because my car is a 280Z with Park Benches up front and factory AC. Do the 240Z's and the 280Z's have the same Eibach kit numbers. I haven't checked. I do know that I have the 01's up front. Currently building a set of T3 DIY Coil Overs for the front. In the rear I will use the front Isolators to drop it down a bit. May go coil overs on the rear next year... but not this summer. Reason = &%#$@ Spindle pins!!!

Pretty important. The OHC throw a LOT of oil spray into the interior of the VC. Without the baffle it can be sucked into the Intake manifold via the PCV system when you go WOT. PCV system reverses airflow at WOT. More important on EFI engines where VC vent is routed back into Intake tract. Carbed cars will just blort it out at the end of the vent line. May cause increased oil consumption on both types of cars... Edit: It's actually a very well designed baffle system. I've Autocrossed for decades. Datsun L seriers never have an oil consumption problem due to top end oil being sucked through the PCV system. Older domestic V8's have a big problem though. You really have to think hard about the VC venting, catch can and PCV design to solve that issue. Interesting to note that GM has been using centrifugal oil separators for some time on their LS motors. You will see these on a fair number of BMW's and Mercedes engines. The Mann Hummel Provent oil separator is becoming very popular with the Forced induction crowd. Has a built in valve to control air flow under boost: https://store.034motorsport.com/catch-can-air-oil-separator-provent-200.html https://www.mann-hummel.com/fileadmin/user_upload/service/catalogues/pdf/ProVent_en_2013.pdf

Willing to drive to SaltSpring Island? I have a friend with a 40 ft shipping container full of parts, engines, transmissions and bodies. PM me for contact info.

I had to replace the baffle on my Z because PO had it removed for media blasting prior to polishing. A good idea, but they forget to put the old part back on. Idiots!!. I bought a donor VC just to get the old baffle plate. Of course I had to remove the factory epoxy. Seals the baffle to the VC a bit more, and keeps the mounting screws from falling out. But really, the Epoxy is overkill as far as oil spray getting past the baffle. You can chip out the old Epoxy fairly easily if needed. You do not need to re-apply any Epoxy. Nissan's idea of belt and suspenders as mentioned. There are small screws hiding under the Epoxy that attach the baffle to the VC. The Epoxy does keep the screws from vibrating loose. Make sure you use a thread Locking compound on the screws when you re-install them. Medium strength " Blue Loctite " is fine.

Do you have room to glue a small " Desicant" bag from a bottle of Aspirin under the TPS cover? Or try sealing the TPS cover with RTV? Modern TPS's are all sealed and that is probably the solution. Very few cars have a removable cover like the 280Z TPS.

As I mentioned. You do it at your Bank and Buyer does it at his Bank ( Or Credit Union ) . Everything is done electronically between the Banks. Only the Banks see your account details and the buyers account details. Once money is in your bank via Banking Electronic transfer the deal is done. Buyer cannot back out ( Unlike PayPal..in which buyer can cancel Automotive and Housing deals ). You then can have your Bank send a FAX of the registration, to the buyers Bank. BTW, a Fax is a legal document. An E-Mail is not. The Banks handle all the documentation for you. The seller has the easy part. The buyer is the one who takes the risk and has to check out the car with due diligence. You usually have a simple Bill of Sale Faxed between Banks with particulars of sale, VIN Numbers of cars. and pictures of VIN Number and mileage on car will also have to be sent to your Bank. Your Bank will give the particular details they want. Best to talk to them before hand. I have a personal friend ( John Carlson ) from High School. He is President and CEO of the National Association of Automobile Clubs of Canada Corporation and was inducted into the Hall of Fame the Vintage Car Club of Canada in 1986 This is the way he advised me to handle my cross country purchase of my 280Z, and how the Big $$$ Vintage owners do it. If you ever watch Chasing Classic Cars, vehicles costing hundreds of thousand of dollars ( or Millions ) are transferred regularly by Electronic Transfer between banking institutions. I trust what he tells me: http://naacc.ca/john-carlson.html The only better way IMHO, is if the buyer fly's down and hands you cash money...

Really healthy market up here. Vintage cars are going for crazy prices. Big Datsun presence in BC, particularly the Metro Vancouver area. Here's a link to pictures of our 2016 All Japanese Car meet in North Vancouver. Over 200 entries. Next year they're looking for 300 at a bigger Venue. Pictures start on Page #6 and continue. That's my Copper 280Z on the first page: http://www.the510realm.com/viewtopic.php?f=12&t=28977&start=75 http://www.theglobeandmail.com/globe-drive/reviews/classics/collecting-classic-japanese-cars-on-the-rise-as-jaguars-ferraris-become-unaffortable/article31741762/

Buyer usually arranges and pays for all shipping. Shipping company will have some documents for you to fill out, but the buyer is the one who deals with most of the Paperwork. Electronic money transfer from Buyers bank to yours is the safest way. Do not use anything like Western Union or PayPal. Let your Bank handle the money transfer. There are a few scams out there involving buyers trying get you to send them money Via Western Union or PayPal. Usually buyer tries to bill you for an " Overpayment" to shipper or something. You send them the extra money and you never here from them again. So only deal with direct Bank to Bank transfers and NEVER send any money to buyer. You get all the money transferred directly into your Bank account. Transport truck shows up at your doorstep and THEN you hand the Transport the car and registration.

Sarah. The really big money for Z cars is in Canada. We are paying premium prices for them because almost none of them lasted through our Winters. Try advertising in the Toronto and Montreal areas. I think you'l be pleasantly surprised by the amount you can get in Canada. I'm on the West Coast, and we think nothing of importing Z cars from as far as Texas. I would also advertise it in BC and Alberta Canada. Only issue with your car is the rust on the back T/Gate area. That will knock the price down some. Still, I think you could easily get $7,500 to $8,000 USD from Canada with your car. Without that rust you probably could easily get $8,000 to $9,000 USD from Toronto, Montreal or Vancouver areas.

Wipe the old junk out with a rag. That's normally good enough. You can use Brake Cleaner to get it spotless if the old grease was heavily contaminated. Don't forget to repack center of the hub with new grease. Couple of nice big " globs " applied is usually sufficient inside hub. You can use a use a bearing packer or the old timer " Hand " method to repack the bearings. The following video shows the proper hand method: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BhL1uAp_WCw

Only thing I would be cautious about, is if PO removed the baffle screen and baffle plate in the breather block. You could use an LED Endoscope ( As cheap as $15 on E-Bay ) to look into the breather tube and confirm that the oil screen and oil baffle are in place. You could even stuff a wire down the breather tube to see if it hits the screening.

I see what the PO did . It's actually not a bad setup. Only 2 major mistakes. It is a vented Catch Can. There is a K&N style filter on top of the catch can. The first mistake is that you ca not plumb a vented Catch can into a PCV system. You have to use a sealed or recirculating Catch Can. Other wise you can't create any Vacuum at the block breather side. Vented catch cans are used on Vent To Atmosphere systems like on race cars. The second mistake is that the VC hose should not have been tee'd into the hose connecting to the catch can. Again, that is for a vent to atmosphere style system. NOT a PCV system. What the PO should have done is used a Sealed Catch Can ( Or oil separator ) and put a small K&N style breather on the Valve cover. Air must be sucked in at the VC, flow through the crank-case and then sucked out at the block breather and into the Intake manifold to be combusted. At WOT airflow is reversed and blow by gases will blow out of the VC vent. There actually is a vacuum source if you look carefully. In the second picture there is a black hose that goes into the base of the Intake manifold just below the Holley carb. There is a GM PCV valve in that line ( Small silver can ) Bottom line, you really don't need the catch can system at all on the L-Serier's ( For street or weekend warrior use ) . The factory PCV and baffling system are very good. Personally, I would get rid of this system and revert back to a factory style PCV system. K&N filter on the valve cover, then use a factory PCV valve at the Intake manifold. It should be threaded for the Nissan PCV valve unless PO mucked about with it. Then run a hose from the Block breather tube direct to the PCV. That will duplicate the factory system and should work fine.

Here's the thing about that line of reasoning. Now I've never seen an live Alligator in my life. Now if I went to Florida and a resident ( maybe Troy Landry ) pointed out a gator and told me " Watch it. Those things are dangerous. They'll kill you in a second". Now, I'm gonna tend to go with his anecdotal and real life experience. I'm not about to say. " Well, I'm going to ignore all that you've told me because you don't have any factual data to present and back up your statement ". In my world, real life experiences and in field results hold equal weight in as hard core Data . So far I haven't been eaten by a Gator.....

Regarding ZH's question. For me it was the improvement in shift quality. Especially in cold wheather but also when warm. Eliminated baulky or notchy shifting. When warm the transmissions on both cars just fall into gear like a hot knife through butter. And cold weather notchiness is greatly reduced. It works on modern transmissions as well, as a friend of mine tried it on his 2006 Infinity G35. He always had a slightly notchy shift quality and he's tried several different oils including the RL MT. The AC Delco FM oil totally eliminated any notchy shifting. He's gone on G35 and G37 forums and had feedback that other owners had the same experience. 510 Realm owners up in the Great White North are also reporting improved shift quality in colder weather. Below 50F seems to be the area where you see the main improvement in shift quality. I think some of the results tend to be regional. Cold climates ( such as Canada ) tend to have more issues with notchy shifting than warmer climates in the South. Could be the reason why our local GM dealers in BC sell so much of it. Notchy shifting when cold may not be an issue California, Florida or Texas for example. BC is fairly mild compared to the rest of Canada, so back East and on the Prairies may have even better results. All I know is that the stuff works in our Climate.

Anecdotal evidence . There are enough people on Suby, Honda, VW/Audi, Toyota and Nissan forums that have reported great success with the AC Delco over Redline, that it supports the premise. Also when your local GM Parts Managers tell you they are selling large quantities of this product to Honda, Nissan, Toyota, BMW and other dealerships in large volumes to fix " problem " cars... it adds to the credibility. Our local Jobber suppliers ( Lordco, NAPA etc ) also report the same thing. Big demand for this stuff to improve shift quality in non-GM cars. We have a lot of 510 owners in BC, and they are also reporting great success with the GM product over RL and other brands. And it's on the Internet so it must be true... I don't think you're ever going to get someone to provide Lab results with measured sound and vibration levels, so " in the field results " are all we can go by. I've personally used both the Redline MT. Amsoil MT and AC Delco FM oils in my Audi. The AC Delco oil definitely worked much better than the RL or Amsoil and saved me from having to do a rebuild due to a damaged 2nd gear synchro. It makes sense as the GM oil was originally made to correct a scratchy shift problem on Gertrag gear boxes ( Brass synchros ) on the Cobalt SS and Soltice . It is a GL-S ( " S " for SAM ) formulation. The " S " stands for " special " or proprietary formulations that are above and beyond of the normal API GL-4 and GL-5 classifications. Many manufacturers have special formulations for there transmissions and diffs these days. Especially European cars. The diff noise is certainly a part of Cabin design. Only so much you can do to eliminate it.

No, you cannot used the AC Delco FM transmission oil in the diff ( or any other GL4 transmission oils ) . It does not have the high pressure additives necessary for Hypoid gears. Totally different formulations for totally different gear loadings. Hypoid diffs require GL5 with extreme pressure additives. From personal use I would highly recommend the AC Delco Friction Modified transmission oil though. The stuff is magic. These cars don't have a lot of sound insulation and even the slightest gear whine is amplified by the hatch area, I would consider ling the whole hatch floor with Dynamat ( or a similar product ) to dampen the noise. Will help with road noise as well. 240Z's are particularly bad as they have next to nothing for sound insulation. Getting back your original question. It really depends on how bad the gear whine is. I've been considering the same thing. I have a slight gear whine the R200 of my 280Z. Just enough to be annoying. Could also be a pinion bearing whine, but I digress. I'm using a 80w/90 ( Amsoil ) and am considering going to a 80w/110 ( one of the new mid-weights). I know some of the local 510 guys have used RL shockproof oil in their diffs and it does quiet them down some. The Lightweight shock proof oil should be enough. If you have to use the Heavy Weight stuff, you have something mechanically wrong. One thing to consider, is that after sitting for 20 yaers with out moving, you may have some corrosion damage to the diff bearings. In fact I'd be surprised if you didn't. Moisture will accumulate after all those years via condensation. That will produce acids in the diff oil which will cause etching on the roller bearings. Might be an idea to tear it down and inspect or replace all the bearings as insurance.

BC's a big Province. Where in BC? Check out the British Columbia Z Registry on Face Book. Quite a few Z cars in the lower Mainland. speaking of Zcars. Check out member ZKARS. He's in Alberta, but Jim probably has a few ( zillion ) spare parts.

^ Yes I had that problem with a 240Z race car that we raced way back in Bell Bottom days. Changed transmissions from an early style ( F4W71A ) to late style ( F4W71B ) . Kept popping out of 3rd gear when ever you lifted the throttle. Turned out the big rubber shifter boot had to be changed as well. Slightly different design and the early boot was putting just enough pressure against the new style shift lever to pop it out of gear. It took surprisingly little force when the revs and loads matched just right.