Chickenman

Munters. You may want to look at the Crane HI-6S. This is the inductive box ( Not CD ) , but is designed to be used with an Electronic module. It connects of the coil positive and negative feeds that come from an electronic ignition module. The Crane HI-6S box is triggered from the connection from the 123 module at the coil leads. It uses the electronic modules square wave output as a Trigger. You disconnect the Coil leads, hook them up to the Crane Box and connect the Crane Box to the coil. So it basically works as a " Piggy Back " system to any electronic ignition module. The Crane Box increases the amperage output to the Coil ( 5 amps ) which greatly increases the spark duration and intensity. It also has Multi-Spark capability, Rev-Limiter and can be hooked up with a MAP based timing retard module if required. The Crane HI-6S is also designed to be used with low resistance, Hi output coils like the Crane PS-91, LX-91, Crane PS-60 and MSD Blaster 2. The extra current draw of these coils is handled by the coil driver of the Crane box. The 123 ignition module is now isolated from the ignition coil would not see any extra current draw from the coil. .PDF file of specifications included. Crane HI-6S Specs.pdf

Any competent Machine shop that services Trucks, or Farm equipment can surface grind a flywheel or turn it on a big Lathe. Doesn't have to be an Automotive shop.

I had the leak on my 1976 280Z. It turned out it was coming from the electrical connections on the sending unit. There are small O-rings under the riveted connections that dry out and crack. I used JB Water Weld which is designed to seal Water, Oil, Gas, Diesel, Hydraulic Fluids and most chemicals. It is a two part epoxy and will cure under water. Regular JB Weld products will disintegrate with prolonged contact with Gasoline. I removed the sending unit and wire brushed all an area around the electrical contacts on both the inside and outside of the sending unit housing. Then I applied a bead of the Epoxy around both sides of each contact. Seems to be working. So far I've had this applied for two years and no further leaks. But I'm still on the look out for a NOS sending unit. http://www.jbweld.com/products/waterweld-epoxy-putty

This is a very good subject. For under $500 you can buy a Fire Suppression system to protect your investment: https://www.summitracing.com/int/search/department/safety-equipment/section/fire-extinguishers/part-type/fire-suppression-systems?N=4294951274%2B4294951080%2B4294809008&SortBy=DisplayPrice&SortOrder=Ascending&retaillocation=int

Summit Racing and Jegs have a large selection of Fire resistant gloves in various price ranges and safety standards. https://www.summitracing.com/int/search/department/safety-equipment/section/fire-retardant-clothing/part-type/driving-gloves?N=4294951274%2B4294943313%2B4294895529&SortBy=Default&SortOrder=Ascending&retaillocation=int

To answer your questions about gloves. I was commenting more on the suggestion of Welders gloves which are too clunky and clumsy to be used on small " Automotive style " ( 5 - 10 BC ) fire extinguishers. Pulling that tiny pin and operating the small handle is extremely difficult with the wrong gloves. " Mechanics "gloves may seem to be a good idea at first... until you look at the materials they are made of, which is usually Nylon or some derivative that will melt on to your skin and cause horrible burns if exposed to fire. Melted nylon or Plastic burns are just absolutely horrid. Professional Fire Fighters already have all of their equipment " On " before even arriving at a fire. Their gloves are large and bulky, but their equipment is designed to be used with those type of large gloves. As far as Road Racing .Any professional or even SCCA Road Race car use complete Fire Suppression Systems permanently plumbed into the car. The driver or Marshal hits a big Red button on the Dash, Cowl or Steering wheel and the suppression system actuates. There is no fumbling about with tiny lock pins and handles etc. Plus we have fully equipped and trained Marshals with fire extinguishers ready to go at each corner. That being said, it certainly wouldn't hurt to have a set of proper Racing Nomex gloves ready to go and easily accessed. But I think Welders Gloves or Mechanics gloves are just the wrong tools for the job. And of course..... you should not be getting close enough to the fire to need gloves on even a SMALL automotive style fire. If you're close enough to need gloves... you're already too close. And what about your arms, your face, your torso, your clothes? You're not a fully fire suited Corner Marshal reaching in to pull an unconscious driver out of a flaming car. Don't put yourself in harms way is the #1 rule. Just my .02c Edited to emphasize the importance of getting proper flame proof gloves.

And as others have mentioned... you should be very careful opening the hood. That can create a very dangerous situation, If you don't know what you'te doing ( and most people don't ) call 911. Here's a thought,. Call your local Fire Depatment and see if they have any training services that they put on. FD's often perform these as a Community service and for Commercial companies that require some training as part of their Safety protocols.

I've had to fight several fires with a Fire Extinguisher ( all other peoples calamities ) and have had some training in proper use of a Fire extinguisher by our local Fire Department. 1: You should never be close enough to the fire to need gloves. Period. End of discussion. 2: Gloves are bulky and can interfere with your ability to operate the extinguisher, especially pulling the safety pin which is small and fiddly. 3: Glove take time to put on. Time is of the essence in putting out a fire. Get to a fire quickly when it is small and it can be extinguished relatively easily in most cases. Give it some time to take hold and it becomes exponentially harder. 4: Above all don't panic and don't put yourself in harms way.

It usually happens to me at 3:00 AM in the morning. Hmmm... did I remember to center punch the mainshaft nut when we rebuilt the tranny???

Rob is correct. Nissan never used an O2 sensor on any 280Z car. The 280ZX is a different story. Those did have Narrow Band O2 sensors, but the 280ZX did not come out until 1979 and is a totally different car.

Fuel and Air jets are $9.99 each. USA source for SK/OER carbs and parts: http://www.zccjdm.com/catalog.php/azcarbum/dt84844/DCOE__CARBURATOR_PARTS__OER__SK__MIKUNI_

No brake booster is a Race car only modification. It is not at all suitable for the street in any way, shape or form. If you have a Race Track only car, you can PM me for details. But I don't really want to post a write-up on an open forum due to the Litigation based society we live in these days. I will note that my right thigh grew 1 inch in diameter after one season with this modification..... LOL. But it gave very good modulation and no more concerns with the Brake booster running out of vacuum at the most inappropriate of times.....

Back when I was racing 240z's ( Late 70's early 80's ) we ran Ferodo DS11 brake pads and Nissan Competition " Green Stuff " pads ( Akebono race shoes. No relation to EBC ) . Both were amazing in their day and " State of the Art" . I also ran with no brake booster as they were inconsistent in Racing application. ATE Super Blue fluid. We never had any brake issues. never faded and could out stop anything. Even the fabled Porsche 911's of that time period with the Brembo brakes. . Came across an interesting Tech article on the history of the " original " Ferodo DS11: http://www.motorsportmagazine.com/archive/article/november-2001/51/ferodo-ds11

Porterfield or CarboTech seem to be the quite popular. Porterfield has various Race compounds available and also a HD " Street " compound (R4-S ) . You may have to send in your shoes for relining, as they may not have cores for a 78. ( Different shoe type than 240Z, 260Z and 75/76 280Z ) http://porterfield-brakes.com/images/racebrakeshoefile2013_02_08_02_22_17.pdf MSA and Whitehead Performance also sell a Carbon/ Kevlar shoe I'm sure others will chime in with more recommendations...... BTW, one of the main reasons for myself switching to rear disc brakes, is availability of pads over shoes. It's just so much easier to get a variety of quality brake pads compared to shoes. As well as all of the performance improvements of disc brakes in general.

Take some pictures of the compressor so we can see what was put on. Also where the hoses go into the firewall so we can see the fitting types ( I'm expecting more clamps... Ugggh!! ) . Take some pictures of AC/Heater control panel so we can see what was installed. Aftermarket types sometimes added the AC control bodged on to the side of the center console.

OK. So that's an aftermarket setup. Not factory. The receiver dryer is a universal one and should be relatively easy to find. Those hoses with clamps are Mickey Mouse. Those all need to be remade. Fortunately it is relatively easy to get AC shops or Hydraulic shops to make the proper hoses with the correct AC couplers. Edit: Dave and I were typing at the same time.

Jai. Take a picture of the original receiver dryer. That is one of the harder parts to find. My factory system came with a receiver dryer that has offset inlets and outlets. One is on top and one is lower down on the body of the cylinder. That is the hard one to find and I believe is the factory type on 1975 and 1976 280z. Some may have inlets and outlets that are on the same level as each other. Those are quite a bit easier to find. The R/D with offset fittings is a " Four Seasons #33286 ". Very hard to find anyone who has stock on these. ( I've been looking for a year via Google and E-Bay ). Vendors advertise them, but never have stock. However, a company in Canada seems to have them " In Stock ". I ordered one from these guys and it is the correct one with offset fittings. $63.29 CDN plus shipping. http://www.thewrenchmonkey.ca/products/auto-parts/four-seasons/33286/ The compressors are fairly robust. My 1976 still has the original 40 year old Hitachi. It had been overfilled and locked solid ( Hydraulic lock ) when I bought the car. After evacuating the system and refilling, it has held a charge for 2 years now. That surprised me. BTW, I found a good used 280Z AC compressor on E-Bay for $60. I bought it for spare parts. Re-manufactured compressors can be found for $300 as mentioned. The hardest part may be sorting out the " Mickey Mouse " AC Climate controls. The factory system uses Ruby Goldberg system of vacuum pots, hoses Vacuum-Magnetic switches and several electrical switches, thermostats and relays that can cause grief. Lots and lots of places for vacuum leaks. You need someone who knows these systems and can work in a methodical manner to get all of the factory Climate controls working. . I used a jumper wire hooked directly to 12v on the battery to test if the clutch operates. I made up a simple 4 foot long, 12 gauge jumper wire ( with ATO Fuse holder and a switch ) that I ran straight from the Battery to the compressor 12v lead. That way I could bypass ALL of the switches, relays, vacuum do-hickeys on the control side and just make sure the Compressor worked and it blew out fresh air. That saved me a Ton of grief. I knew the big stuff worked... it was just the small bits and bobs that needed fixing. The Climate control Vacuum selector valve often leaks. It has silicone sealing grease in it that dries out. Can easily be fixed, but you have to be careful how you reassemble it. It has to be " clocked " just right. Sarah ( FastWoman ) has an excellent " How to Fix " article on this simple, but finicky little switch. http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/topic/32856-refurbishing-the-hvac-vacuum-selector-valve-in-a-1978-280z-useful-info/ I used R12A by RedTek to re-fill the system. R12 is extremely hard to find in Canada ( not to mention expensive ) and I didn't want the hassle of switching to R134. R12A is compatible with both R12 and R134 and the oil is compatible as well. No hassles... just evacuate, vacuum down system and add correct amount of R12A and R12A oil. Another advantage of R12A is that it apparently blows " colder " than R134. R134 does not perform as well as R12 in older vehicle AC systems. http://www.redtek.com/English/product.asp?ID=18

A warning from CarboTech and AP Racing on using DOT 5.0 ( Silicone ) fluids: http://www.ctbrakes.com/brake-fluid.asp

DOT 5.0 or DOT 5.1? There is a big difference. DOT 5.0 is a silicone fluid. It does not absorb water and does not damage paint. Thus it is good for Antique vehicles and certain Military applications. However... it has very poor compressability. Silicone fluids don't absorb water, but they do create air bubbles when compressed and then released. That makes them unsuitable for any form of competition and most forms of highway driving, particularily in Mountainous Terrain. They also cannot be used on vehicles with ABS. DOT 5.0 must also be thoroughly flushed and can NOT be mixed with any DOT3, DOT 4 or DOT 5.1 fluids. Generally not recommended these days for anything but Antique vehicles stored in Museums. Bottom line: It's a good storage fluid...it's not a good brake fluid. DOT 5.1 are a polyalkylene glycol ether and borate ester combination with higher boiling points than DOT 4 and a lower viscosity to make it more compatible with ABS systems. Many Auto manufacturers now recommend DOT 5.1 fluids. It can be safely mixed with DOT3 and DOT 4. DOT 5.1 can NOT be mixed with DOT 5.0 Here's a good explanation of the various types of DOT brake fluids. http://www.advancepetro.com/differentbrakefluid.htm http://www.gomog.com/allmorgan/brakefluids.html Edit: I use WilWood 570 race fluid ( DOT 3 ) in most of my vehicles. As do many of our local Datsun 510 members. No issues. Castrol LMA is also a good DOT 3/4 fluid

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Cliff, I'm surprised that your Nissan Parts guy told you that you had to buy 10 of the outer O-rings. The Part number is for one. Maybe things are different in the USA, but in Canada I was able to order one and it came in it's own individual sealed Nissan package. There is another way to make a seal for to replace the " Top Hat " seal. Clean the inside of the speedometer cable ( Transmission end ) fitting thoroughly with Brake Clean. Then apply some light grease or oil to the inner cable for .about the first inch or two. Then get some Automotive RTV and partially fill the inside of the screw coupling . It doesn't have to be very thick, but you basically want to make an RTV " washer " that seals the cavity and the inner cable. The oil or grease on the inner cable will prevent the RTV from sticking to it. Now screw the speedometer cable coupling assembly back onto the speedo gear housing. Wait about 30 minutes before using, or whatever set time for your RTV is. Voila, you've just made a new Top Hat. Did this to my old Rally Datsun back in the " Day " it worked slick.

Unfortunately the Part numbers you quoted are in fact a Firewall seal. Illustration #24 ( 24250-8994 and 25051-N4500 ). That little Top Hat in the pictures only comes with a new Speedo cable. However all is not lost. It is just a secondary seal. You can go to home depot and get a flat rubber washer that will do the same thing. They come in various sizes and have approx a 1/8" dia inner hole. As a matter of Fact, the 1600 and 2000 Roadster used exactly that type of flat rubber washer to prevent oil from climbing up the cable. Flat washer on right.

You can get by without a Distributor machine. Just use a Dial Back Timing light to check Static advance ( 6 to 8 degrees ) , when the advance starts ( around 1,200 ) and full Mechanical advance. 30 to 32 degrees should be OK for California fuel, if you go with Chevron or whatever the best fuel is in California these days. The 12 on the Cam plate is 12 Distributor degrees which equals 24 Crankshaft degrees. Add in 6 to 8 degrees to give your total of 30 to 32.total mechanical. Vacuum advance disconnected while setting timing of course.

Permatex makes a special product for DIY repair of W/S rubbers. It's called flowable W/Shield and Glass sealant. It is a very thin, clear RTV that " Flows " into hidden nooks and crannies of W/Shields that are held in with Rubber gaskets. It has a special small application tip so you can slip it under the rubber and inject the sealant. PO had replaced the rear hatch glass rubber with an aftermarket POS. It leaked like a sieve... but he never drove the car in the rain. Here on the Wet Coast I do not have that luxury. I was looking at having the rubber gasket replaced but decided to give the Permatex product a try. Gotta say it worked danged good. Hatch rubber is now sealed tight to the worst rains and my rear trunk area now stays nice and dry. USA Part # 81730 Canadian Part # 65AR http://www.amazon.com/Permatex-81730-Flowable-Silicone-Windshield/dp/B000BKEBO0

^ Yes they do... Fuel pressure should be maintained by check valve in Fuel Pump. Losing pressure after sitting for 5 weeks could be a sign that there is a problem with the Fuel Pump. My first thought would be to remove the small plastic pre-filter, cut it open and see if it is plugged with debris. Second thought... As always, check all your grounds and electrical connections thoroughly. Regular use of an Electrical contact cleaner is pretty much a SOP on these vintage cars.