Chickenman

That Inline 6 sounds so sweet....

The previous owner probably used the Crane 6300 because it was a relatively low cost upgrade to the stock Turbo ignition system. On a Turbo engine, once you start increasing boost, the stock ignition systems just don't have enough power to keep things lit. A hi amperage Induction box like the 6300 is a good Ignition upgrade choice for a mildly boosted Turbo engine. For higher boost levels the 6400 CDI box may be a better choice, but at a higher cost. There are Pro's and Cons to each style.

Yep, I posted all of that information and the link to the full instructions for the 6300 way back in post #6...... The 6300 is designed to be triggered by an OEM Ignition module which outputs a 12V Square wave to the coil. It cannot be triggered by a directly Sine wave signal. The Crane HI-6S is connected at to the Coil plus and and Negative leads on the output side of an OEM Ignition module . It will not work when wired directly to a Dizzy.... of any sort. The #6300 series do not have any convertor circuitry for Magnetic, VR , Hall or Optical sensors. It needs an OEM ignition module to convert the signal. That's how Crane keeps the cost down on the #6300 Inductive model. The #6300 is basically a Hi amperage " Piggy Back " Induction box ( much higher amperage capacity than OEM modules) with Multi-Spark, Rev Limiter and " Smart " dwell control. The #6400 CDI Series on the other hand, will work directly off of ANY distributor or Crank trigger wheel, because it has the additional convertor circuitry to trigger directly off of Magnetic ( Flying Magnet ) or a VR sensor, Hall effect, Optical and points. The #6400 CDI box combined with a Crane PS92 coil has enough juice to light a small city!!

It was pretty standard with all manufactures around that time. One less thing to have to service.

Crane HI-6S requires 12 volt square wave signal, not 5 volt. Crane cockpit retard control is available separately for both the HI-6 CD box and HI-6S Induction box.

OK, so that model does not have a magnetic trigger of any sort. You just leave the stock system in place and wire the HI-6S in at the coil. It will be triggered from the stock system. Do you have the HI-6S instruction sheet or PDF?

Mitchel. I've been using Crane Ignition boxes since the late 90's and am pretty familiar with them. You say you have a Crane Fireball HI6-S... is that correct? The S designates an a Multi-Spark INDUCTION box and these particular boxes can NOT be triggered from a Magnetic or Hall sensor. They must be triggered by a square wave 12V signal such as that from an OEM Ignition module. In essence, the Hi6-S box is a " Piggy Back " system that works in parallel with te OEM Electronic Ignition or ECU. Quote from Crane HI6-S instructions: Trigger: Connect the white HI-6S wire to all O.E. wires that were removed from the Coil- terminal above. The white wire is the trigger input to the HI-6S. It requires a 12 volt signal, such as that from the output of an O.E. ignition module. This type of trigger signal is sometimes referred to as a “module” or ”points” trigger signal. Note: the HI-6S cannot be triggered directly from a Hall Effect or magnetic pickup. Crane HI-6S Instructions PDF The Crane Fireball HI-6 ( No " S " in model number ) is the Capacitor Discharge model and this does have multiple Trigger options for Magnetic, Hall, Optical and Points triggers. Edit: The Crane HI-6 CD model is about twice the size of the Induction model. The HI-6 CD model is Part #: 6000-64XX The HI-6S Induction model is Part #: 6000-6300

Just a note. All bearings are readily available at local bearing supply shops at wholesale prices. Get SKF or NTN. All the identity numbers are stamped on the bearing races. Seals and gaskets are still available from any Nissan dealer or places like MSA. You'll want a front input seal and retaining plate gasket, rear tranny seal, and maybe a new O-ring and shaft seal for the Speedo sleeve. All are readily available from Nissan. Factory seals are very good quality. Some Permatex Ultra Gray for sealing the center retaining plate ( no gasket, just sealant ) or some Hylomar. Snap rings are usually re-useable if you take care removing them, but are of a standard Metric size and can be ordered from Nissan or matched at Bearing supply shops.

A stock 280Z uses a clutch slave cylinder that automatically takes up any slack With this type of hydraulic clutch adjustment the bearing is always in slight contact with the diaphragm springs There is never any : Free play " between the clutch rod and the clutch fork. That is how they are designed and there is no way around that, ( without swapping out parts ). Trying to add clearance at the clevis to pedal side will not over ride the factory self adjusting function. And yes a failing TO brg with a self adjusting slave cylinder will start to whine in Neutral as they fail. Note: Automatic slack adjustment slave cylinders should NOT have an external return spring attached. The slave cylinder has a weak compression spring inside that always apples slight pressure to the non-threaded extension rod. This is how they self adjust. Earlier styles ( up to 06/72 ) with the manual adjusting slave cylinder, use a different slave cylinder ( with no internal spring ), clutch fork and external return spring. With this style of clutch system, the TO bearing will not be in constant contact with the diaphragm fingers when the clutch pedal is fully released. The external spring pulls the clutch fork back and pushes the slave cylinder all the way to the bottom of it's travel. Then you adjust your free play with the ball and lock nut on the threaded rod.

Yeah. I remember installing the G3 was a PITA on the fuel tank side of my 280z. Eventually got it by making up a new length of hose, heating the hose with a hot air gun and using lots of Silicone spray. I assembled it off car as well. Clamped the hose in a vice, hot air gun, taper punch to enlarge fuel line, then blasting everything with Silicone Spray. Lots of grunting and swearing involved... Edit: I remember looking at the G2's and I don't think they'll work on a 280Z. The fuel pump inlet side fitting is too big. You don't really want to use a Fuel Filter with smaller fittings either because it will restrict the FI pump inlet and cause a pressure loss or overwork the pump. The higher pressure that the FI pump generates require a larger inlet hose from the tank otherwise you can get pump cavitation.

+2 Exedy clutches is a division of Daiken which is an excellent brand.

I haven't installed them yet, but I basically assembled the same kit with Parts from various Vendors. ( SilverMine Motors = SS Hoses, Rock Auto for Z31 rotors and Maxima Calipers, Z Car Depot for brackets?? ) , That's a decent price for the complete kit.

Well I could be mistaken... I'll have to check that restoration site again. And try and find some pictures of my early Z. Regardless, the fuel lines in the tunnel aren't a big concern IMHO. Just doesn't get hot enough under the tunnel to cause an issue.

^ ZH is on the right track. What are you using for plug wires? If strong spark at coil output lead but weak at spark plug end, that could be high resistance plug leads or a distributor cap or rotor issue. 1: Measure the plug lead wires for excessive resistance with an Ohm meter. You should be using a good spiral core wire. NGK wires are inexpensive, high quality and inexpensive. NE-61 is the number for our cars. MSD, Magnecor and Aurora ( Local production in Langley ) are also very good. Taylor and Accel are often junk, especially their lower end wires. Good Tech article on plug wires from Magnecor: http://www.magnecor.com/magnecor1/truth.htm 2: What brand of new cap and rotor did you get? Some aftermarket brands have a very high resistance in the center button. Check it with an Ohm meter. I've also seen mismatches between aftermarket rotors and dizzy caps resulting in a very large gap between the rotor tip and the dizzy plug terminals. This is really hard to find, but will drive you nuts. A few local Vancouver guys have run into issues (IE: excessive gap, high resistance center button and loose rotors ) with caps and rotors supplied from some local Automotive suppliers. Mixing one brand of rotor with another brand of cap can cause issues with excessive gap to the dizzy terminals as well. OEM Nissan cap and rotor are still available from your local dealer if you need them. Factory Nissan caps and rotors are very good quality. 3: Make sure you have the coil polarity correct. Having it reversed will dramatically lower spark output, particularly at the plug. 4: The 280ZX module does not require a ballast resistor. Using the factory ballast resistor will reduce spark out put. Wiring diagrams from Atlantic Z: http://atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/distributor/index.html

I had a 9/70 240Z ( Canadian production 1971 Model year ) and the fuel lines were all attached to the floor pan as in the picture I provided. Photo was taken from an extensive restoration, so Fuel lines were not relocated. If you look carefully, you will also see how the factory has provided clearance channels for the fuel lines to run below the floor panels.

70 or 71

I would say no. Much higher temps develop in engine bay. Most cars run the fuel lines down the tunnel and have no issues with Vapor Lock or Fuel Percolation. It's an issue on the Z cars related to the exhaust manifold being directly under the Intake manifold.

Delete. Double post.

I believe that Nissan may have moved the fuel lines on later years up into the right side of the transmission tunnels for safety reasons. A little more protection from road debris. Hard finding pictures of all of the various years. But still all on the passenger side.

Curious. Now you have me thinking. I've don't recall ever seeing a 240/260/280 Z with the exhaust cut out on the right side ( Passenger side ) of the car..... at least not from the Factory. V8 conversions and aftermarket " Dual Pipe " cross members don't count. It doesn't make sense as all of the exhaust goes down the left side and then tucks up under the driveshaft and then muffler exits on the Left side ( Driver side ) . Exhaust would have to cross over at rear and that's not factory routing. Factory mounting for muffler is in left rear corner and the gas tank is also offset mounted to the right side on all of the 240/260/280Z models. . I wonder if some one put your cross member bracket ( with the exhaust cut out ) on backwards? They will fit both ways. Factory parts manuals show exhausts system going down Left hand side of car all the way from front to rear. On all years from 1970 thru 1978.

Unless I'm mistaken, the stock Fuel lines all run down passenger side of chassis no where near the exhaust system. Edit: I think you're looking at the Evap canister purge line from the Evap Reservoir tank. That line does run down the left side in the engine compartment and then crosses over the transmission tunnel to the passenger side. But that line getting hot won't affect anything. Here's a picture of stock Fuel pipe routing viewed from the rear. They don't even attach to the tunnel, but rather to the bottom of the floor pan and all on the Passenger side. Well away from the exhaust system.

There are several pads that will fit. The FMSI Pad number is D161( D002, D057, D114, D161 ). That cross references with the following: Source Hawk Performance Pads. FMSI D002, D057, D114, D161. Fits: 1964-68 Austin Healey 3000 1967-69 MGC 1977-80 Datsun 810 / 910, 1970-78 Datsun 240Z/260Z/280Z 1975-81 SAAB 99, 1979-87 SAAB 900 1975 Toyota Corolla SR5, 1972-82 Corona, 1978-80 Cressida 1966-71 Triumph GT-6, 1957-72 TR series

As OP is in UK. He should be able to source Mintex or Ferodo HP pads easily there. Ferodo DS2500 seem to be a popular dual purpose pad ( HP Street and Autocross ) over there. I would check those out first. Hawk HPS are also a good street pad and Autocross pad. I'm not a big fan of EBC pads, although they seem to be quite popular in the UK and Europe. OP also has to decide what he is going to do. Either you are going to run Track Days ( on a Road Race track ) or you're not. If you are, then get a dedicated set of REAL Road Race pads and only run those on the track as previously suggested. . Note: Autocross is NOT the same thing as track days and a decent set of HP Street pads will suffice. Here is just one major supplier of Ferodo pads in the UK:

Used to Autocross Z cars in Mod class way back in the mid 70's. Goodyear 21x 8 x13 soft compound slicks. No G meters back then, but car handled like a slot car. Had to be pulling well over 1 G. No oiling issues ever with stock oil pan. Also ran a D-Production Z car ( ICSCC ) in the late 70's on Goodyear slicks. Had a very expensive Aviad oil pan ( 7 qts, fully baffled, windage tray ). Pan leaked like a sieve because it was built improperly ( Twisted ) . Replaced it with a stock 240Z oil pan and ran the car for two years with Zero oiling issues. Won quite a few races with that car. Stock pan is well designed and more than adequate for Streetuse, Autocross and Track days IMHO. FWIW.

Yes, I was was just looking at the exact same pictures at Hybrid Z. The Fidanza has a thicker crank hub boss on the backside, like the OP's picture . My Audi Fidanza aluminium flywheel has the same thick boss area. It's tough to call though. If no identifying marks can be found it. Might be an idea for the OP to send the pictures to Tilton and Fidanza to see if they can make a positive ID. Had a original Tilton aluminium Flywheel on my Race Datsun 1200 back in the mid 70's and one on my Autocross 1971 Camaro RS. Very nice piece of kit.