Chickenman

Could also be a Fidanza. Very similar to the Tilton. Here's a link to pictures of various Fidanza flywheels: Fidanza Flywheel Pictures Fidanza makes replacement steel center sections as well. Part #229501 http://www.fidanza.com/aluminum-flywheel-2/

I'd like to see the cam lobes as well. Those are not good looking rockers. The scratching and chatter marks on the wipe areas are not good signs. Saro, if you haven't already done it when you changed rockers, I'd recommend am immediate oil and filter change. Cut open the old filter and examine the filter medium for any metal debris. Scratches could also be from running no air filters or Air Filters that do not filter well and are allowing fine particle of dirt through. . Post up some high res pictures of the Cam lobes. A few questions: 1: What weight and brand of motor oil are you currently running? 2: What brand + type of air filter are you running. Independent tests have shown that K&N filters and other Cotton Gauze/Foam filters are quite poor at filtering materials like fine dust. I've seen it on my own cars and only run the K+N filters on track days. DD gets high quality ( Factory Nissan filters are good ) paper element filters.

Saro, if you post up some more pictures of the Rocker Arms, turn off the flash. The flash causes reflections and hides details.

Wow... that's a beautiful engine compartment and car.

The Crane coil is not limited to 6,500 RPM. It's a very good piece of kit. So is the MSD Blaster 2. Nothing wrong with the stock coil 280 z/zx coil either.

Have you physically checked the wipe pattern after installing the new rockers? That old rocker picture has an asymmetrical wear pattern that could be caused by a worn Camshaft. Here's a picture of a good wipe pattern.

Wow.. that is horrible wear on the rocker arm wipe pad in the top photo. I've never seen a rocker pad wear offset like that on an L-series. Tip of rocker arm is worn offset as well. I think you would be well advised to check your Camshaft for wear. It looks like it has some taper wear. Can you post up some more pictures of your old rocker arms and the wipe patterns? It would be nice to see a selection of the old rockers instead of just 1. But the top picture is a worry....

I'd also check the edge on the bottom that runs between #1 and #2. Looks like there is some corrosion there, and there is a coolant hole located there. Hard to tell if it's been sitting for several months. Would be worth while taking it to a machine shop, and have it checked for flatness, if you plan on using this head in the future. Probably will need ant least a skim shave.

Battery was probably low. Ammeter charging level will change depending on how fully charged the battery is and how much load is applied.

Edit: Deleted double post

The E-12-80 Module is pretty powerful. I know of Turbo cars running them at 15+ lbs boost. Unless you need the Rev limiter, or other features like Two Step or Boost retard, there is really no need to got to an MSD or Crane box.

Good stuff

^ Of course if you do resurface the rockers, guess what that changes? Yep.. the effective Lash pad thickness. You have to check the wipe pattern all over again. That's why a lot of engine builders prefer either brand new Nissan rocker arms ( if you can find them ) or a good used set of genuine Nissan rocker arms. Beware of new " aftermarket " rocker arms. There are horror stories all over the place regarding them. Quality is very " iffy" and you never know what you are getting.

^ Most often it's the rocker arm that causes the issue. You will get a discernible wear line right at maximum lift on the rocker pad. Drag a finger nail over the line and if you can feel anything at all, either replace the rocker or get them resurfaced. Edit: Just checked the link that you supplied above. In post #12 you can clearly see the wear line in the rocker ( Red Arrow ) that was causing the ticking. That's got a fairly deep dip as you can plainly see it in the photo. No need to drag a fingernail across that. It's toast. The thing that tricks people with worn rockers, is that the the feeler gauge will very seldom line up exactly on the center line of the dip. So the Cam Lobe contact point will be to one side or the other of the dip when you make your measurement with your feeler gauge. The dip can easily be an extra .005" deep. You can set your lash to specs a hundred times... but the " Tick " will still be there....

Dude.. you have about 57 threads on this subject and now you're hijacking someone else's thread? Very bad form

Stock Lash pads have a recess on the bottom. If they are flat they are aftermarket. Only exception I have ever come across were some early .115" Datsun lash pads which I believe only came in a 1968 L-16's and earlier L-13's/L-14's. These were also flat on the bottom. No recess.

Memory's apparently pretty good. Used lash pads with some visible wear. Minimum ( worst ) = .1165". Best lash pad = .118" The stock lash pads are really, really tough. I'd say the .118" pad is bang on and the .1165" pad has about .0005" wear. Can't feel any wear with the fingernail test on the .118" lash pad. A barely perceptible edge on the .1165" lash pad. Edit: Looked through my library. Frank Honsowetz ( How to Modify your Nissan & Datsun OHC Engine ) says stock Lash Pads are .118". That's good enough for me and confirms my measurement of used Lash Pads.

Yes, that should be OK. Make sure that the electric pump is installed as a " Pusher " pump, as close to the fuel tank as possible. Electric pumps don't work well as " Puller " pumps. Don't forget to run a fuel filter between the tank and the electric pump inlet. ( I believe the Carter comes with one supplied )

That's a nice Torque & HP curve for a Rally car. Can you tell us a bit more about the engine specs?

I've got some original 13218-21000's sitting around in my parts bin. I'll Mic them a bit later. I'm in insomniac mode right now. ( Memory is saying .115" to .117" stock.... but I don't trust my memory 100% any more. ) Bear in mind that even if head is " completely " stock, once the valves and seats have been ground or replaced, you have to check the lash wipe pattern.

Pressed black Jeans, a nice Polo shirt and Converse low cut runners. Nice light runner with a thin sole that was nice and narrow. Great for heal and toeing. Come to think of it.. I did seem to have a lot more Female companions during those days. Hmmm...

All this talk about driving and cycling gloves reminded me of my Mountain Biking days... 25 years ago. Rummaged through a drawer and found some of my Lycra cycling shirts ( in Neon colors of course ) and my Spandex cycling shorts. One word now... Nope!!

Found some interesting Part number information for L-series distributors at a site that I frequent. Site is usually very accurate historically: ( www.datsun1200.com) Note: Degrees and RPM's are as measured at Distributor. Double figures for Crank degrees and Crank RPM. Vacuum advance not shown.

Beautiful restoration. Yes the clasps that attach to the distributor were usually Black. The small bracket that screws to the Dizzy body is Cad color. I'll try and find some specs for the D612-52. I have some old books kicking around. Regarding the actual timing curve and numbers. If the engine is stock, you should have no trouble running on the figures that Nissan originally used or the numbers I gave you. On California 91 Octane fuel. Nissan was actually pretty aggressive back in the day with how quickly they ramped up the curves. However, they did not run as much total advance as was optimal ( for maximum performance. This was mainly for emissions specs, as cars in the mid-70's usually ran with less total timing in an effort to reduce NOX emissions. It made for inefficient engines with low power. They also had to be conservative as they had to allow for consumers occasionally putting in regular fuel instead of Premium. Here is an XLS of some of the distributor curves. Note how Nissan reached full mechanical advance fairly quickly, but limited the total amount. Bear in mind that these tables do not show the compression ratios of these cars. That must be considered when comparing Emissions and non-emissions timing curves. Distributor advance curves.xls

Sorry, ZH.. but I've still been tuning carburated cars with dizzy's for the past 40 years up to the present day, as well as EFI cars since 2006 and I have to respectfully disagree with you . The physics of the engines haven't changed. Honda's V-Tech's with 11 to 1 CR ratios STOCK and even most econo boxes with CR's over 9.5 or 10 to 1 prove that. While modern ECU's and knock sensors allow more aggressive timing curves, and allow the engine designer to run closer to the Maximum performance edge older cars can still run fine on modern fuels. Today's modern fuels aren't that bad and Ethanol is a BONUS for High Compression or Turbo cars. Ethanol ( even 10% ) allow more aggressive timing and higher compression or boost because it burns cooler in the combustion chamber. TEL octane enhancements have been more than matched by modern blends. It's just that a lot of refineries and places like California basically " mandate " lower Octane fuels. That being said. You simply Taylor the maximum mechanical advance to the fuel. The curve shape doesn't change, just the final numbers. I run an aggressive curve on my 280Z but with conservative final overall numbers. I get 25+ MPG and the car runs like a Bat out of Hell. The old curves still work just fine. You may have to be a bit conservative with the overall numbers in California... but that's always been true. Regarding Distributor machines, while nice, they aren't really necessary these days. Nissan didn't have modern electronic dial back timing lights back in the day. Dial Back timing lights can achieve exactly the same results as a distributor machine. BTW... OP lives in Canada. Canadian fuel is well known to be of better quality that USA fuel. It's a difference in standards, for our extreme climates, which just so happens to effect High Performance cars in a positive way. In short both USA and Canada use AKI standrad which si R&M/2. But Canda refineries put more weight behind the RON values which has more effect on anti-detonation tha MON. Turbo Audi/VW/Porcshe guys are all over this, and it's no small matter that two of the largest aftermarket tuners for German Turbo car are based in Canada ( Unitronics and Eurodyne ). Edit: I live in Metro Vancouver Canada, and often travel down to the Sates. Used to Autocross down there a fair bit. So did a lot of my friends. On our Pony cars with carbs and dizzies we'd have to Detune are cars by about 2 degrees on overall mechanical advance to run on the same " Octane Rating " of fuel that we ran in BC. Today, my Turbo Audi does that with automatically with a sophisticated digital ECU and dual knock sensors. I styill have to manually dial back the advance over optimum on my old 425 HP Camaro and even on my 1976 280Z. This was true in the 70's and it's still true today. You always tune to the fuel and conditions you use.