Chickenman

Whatsa behind you... isa no matter!!

Thanks Jim but I'm good. But I just found out that my local supplier ( MRO ) now carries TechFlex Clean Cut. In fact I just picked some more up today. They don't carry the high heat or extreme heat stuff though. I normally order that through Wirecare. They do have some nice products...

Another tip, if you really want to make things neat and tidy, is to use a Nylon braided wire covering to bundle the new wires( or old wires ) I use products from TechFlex. Normally their " Clean Cut " sleeving as it can be cut with scissors and doesn't " unravel " like normal Nylon braid. I normally use https://www.wirecare.com/ They also have a large selection of specialty sleeving and foil sheeting for extreme heat protection, Deutsch connectors ( Luv these ) Shrink wraps, Tools ( including crimpers and heat guns and all sorts of nifty products that can be used in Automotive applications. One of the cheaper places to get Volcano wrap for headers. . Shipping is a bit expensive from them though.

^ Yes, that's a very nice crimper.

Once you get Weber's dialed in properly, they should drive like a Fuel injected car. The good point about Weber's is that everything is adjustable. The bad point about Weber's is that everything is adjustable..... Big chokes will make Power at the Top end.. but at expense of drive-ability and low end Torque on the street. Unfortunately, a lot of Weber choke size information pertains to Racing engines, which seldom run below 5,000 to 5,500 RPM's. On the street ( and Autocross and Hillclimbs) I'll take 10 ft/lbs Torque with a nice fat and flat Torque curve over 10 HP at Peak RPM any day. Actually, on most Road Courses, I'd take that trade-off as well..

I bought a complete set off of Fric Frac to do my 280Z and I must say they are very nice. Very good quality, similar to my Audi terminals. Only thing lacking is rubber boots ( like Audi/VW, but that really doesn't matter as they have silicone seals on both the wire and the plug. As for a Crimper, you need an AMP style. These are also called Molex or " W " style Note the design of the crimping die: AMP Crimper

34 Chokes are pretty big on a 40 DCOE. On the street 32's should make it crisper and get rid of the idle to low speed stumble. If you can't get the drive-ability you want on the 34's, consider going down a bit in Choke size. 34's are OK on 45 DCOE's for the street ( On a STRONG engine ) , but reduce the booster signal too much on 40 DCOE IMHO. There is a ratio of throttle bore size to venturi size that has to be maintained. 34 Chokes on a 45 DCOE will create a stronger booster signal than 34's on a 40 DCOE because of the larger variance in size between throttle bore and venturi size on the 45's This of course all depends on usage and engine specs. But on the street it's always best to be a bit conservative on choke size rather than a bit too big.

Yes, it's a pretty slick device. Better than the MSD and Crane units IMHO.

Regarding points. If you do choose to run them, note that you must remember to remove the Points condensor on the side of the dizzy. This is because of the low voltage and current that the Ignition box uses. Points contact wear is virtually none existent. However the rubbing block can still wear. You could swap in a 260Z or 280Z Variable Reluctor dizzy. Lots of those available used for relatively little money. RA also sells re-manufactured A1-Cardone distributors for as little as $89.29 . Curiously, the Federal model ( 31617 ) with two pickup coils is cheaper than the single coil models ( 31618 ): Datsun 280Z distributor 1975/1976

One of the interesting things about the Crane Hi-6 is that it has a Tach Test Mode. You can hook up your Tach and it will run through a series of tests. MSD 6AL doesn't have this feature. You can also calibrate the Tach by setting the Digital Rev limiter on the HI-6 to a set figure, running the engine up with no load till the Rev limiter kicks in and then adjusting your Tach to match. Factory Tachs are notoriously inaccurate. BTW, the Crane Rev Limiter system ( Patented ) is one of the most sophisticated on the market. It's not a harsh system like the early MSD 6AL series. No harsh Bangs or Pops ever!! ( or Explosions with Nitrous!! ). Crane HI-6 Instructions

Stanley... I have a Crane Hi-6, a Hi-6S and COP LS2 truck coils. Haven't decided what ignition system to run on the 280Z with the HalTech, but I'm leaning towards the Hi-6 with the 280ZX Turbo dizzy. I like the retro look of the plug lead wires on an L6. Waiting on weather to warm up a bit. The Technoversion Tach Match TM03 might be the easy way to go with the Crane HI-6. Cheaper than the MSD and Crane Tach adapters as well. Or use a 280Z Tach. http://www.technoversions.com/TachMatchHome.html Edit: All of these Tach adapters are just signal convertors. They convert the square wave output of the Ignition Box Tach output wire into an " old school " Sine wave or current pulse that older Tachs can work with.

I have the Haltech up and running now on my Bench tester. All systems are working fine. Playing with Fuel and Ignition Maps, calibrating sensors etc and just generally getting used to the software. Already found a few " Quirks " in the HalTech program, which would have driven you nuts if you had it on the car and didn't know WTF it was doing. It's always a good idea to bench test before doing the actual install IMHO. Particularly on older systems with little or no support from the manufacturer..... I somehow ended up with an E11 version 1... which were " supposedly " all recalled and upgraded for free by 2005. Seems some weren't returned. There were some issues on Rotary engines with Version 1, OK with piston engines. HalTech changed some components. I did add a heat-sink to the CPU as the early versions tended to over heat ( one of the problems on Rotary's ). Biggest problem was lack of software. I bought the unit used and it had no software. Didn't think it would be an issue, but Haltech only has Version 2 software available for download. I was not aware of the Version history and back story when I bought the unit... Long story short... HalTech has a company policy of ZERO support for the E11 V1. Their Techs aren't allowed to send you software even if they have it in their archives. Had to sort it out on my own or unit was useless. I ended up running Version 2 HalWin 1.62 software on it, and was able to successfully update the Firmware on the ECU to build 29 ( from build 16 ), That particular Firmware build number was compatible with BOTH earlier ECU unit and the later software. It took a LOT of work on my part comparing files etc, but I don't give up easily. Edit : Also running on HalWin 1.62 on Win 7 64 bit... even though HalWin 1.62 is a 16 bit proggy... Fascinating stuff to me. And yet I can't paint a wall worth a damn..... go figure. Waiting for weather to warm up a bit. Then I'm replacing the injectors on the 280Z and going to get it Dynoed for a baseline on the Stock ECU. Then we'll install the HalTech, tune it on the Dyno and compare results. Probably won't do this till sometime in March.

Well, if some people can get it to work and some can't, I'd say that probably is a more of a result of their skill level ( or lack there of ) than anything else. Regardless, enough people HAVE made it work and there are alternatives Electronics are second nature to some people and absolute nightmares to others. I'm currently running a Haltech E11 standalone ECU on software and a Computer that even Haltech in Australia said couldn't be done. BTW, my friend Mark Farrow has a 1972 240Z with a SBC 383, MSD 6AL and stock Factory 1972Tach. He's got that working fine and calibrated for a V8... and he's certainly not a genius at Electronics ( Sorry Mark ) . We have lots of guys running Datsun 510's out here that have aftermarket Ignition Boxes, engine swaps, Aftermarket EFI and even COP... all running on stock Factory Datsun Tachs. So I guess some people can get it to work and some can't... Normal situation in Life I'd say.

From what I read, the original write up from Turbo6inKY was on his 240Z, which going from his signature is a 1970. He also referred to cutting one wire loop out of the currnet sensing style Tachs, so that has to be referring to early 240Z Tachs?? Yes?? Also, lots of posts on various EFI forums, particularily Mega Squirt on how to get 240z, 260z and 280z Tachs working with aftermarket boxes. There are various way to do it. 260Z and 280Z Tachs are easy peasy. 08/72 and later Tachs need the MSD 8620 or Crane 6000-8920 Tach adapter ( Not the 8910 or 6000-8910 ) . Earlier 240Z current Tachs require some rewiring and the 8920 adapter or the some other similar adapter such as the Technoversions Tach Match as you mentioned. http://www.technoversions.com/TachMatchHome.html There is also the Dinoplex conversion; http://dinoplex.org/tachoconversion/ .... or just swap in a 280Z Tach.

There's a complete article on this at Hybrid Z. On how to get Datsun 240Z Tachs to work with an MSD 6AL. MSD Tach output is same as Crane or any other box. Apparently works on 1973 Tachs and up as mentioned. http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/37376-getting-your-early-240z-tachometer-working-with-an-msd-6-series-ignition/ In the article they use the MSD Tach adapter #8920. Crane also has a Tach adapter for Import Tachs that require a High Voltage Pulse and can be used for Triggering current sensing Tachs. Crane # 6000-8920

I've been using Crane ignition boxes ( HI-6 CD Box ) since 1998 on my vehicles with zero failures. Just went through this on Hybrid Z forum with a Mega squirt. A 1973 should be an RPM based Electronic Tach . The change over from current based Tach to Electronic style is 08/72. A 260Z or 280Z Tach has been confirmed to work with a Hi-6 for sure. You may or may not need a Tach adapter. http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/124640-240z-tach-driver/ You can trigger off the points no problem. Current through points is not a worry. An MSD or Crane box uses millamps through the points as a trigger. Do not use a Ballast resistor. Use a Crane PC91, LX91 or MSD Blaster 2 coil. The Crane coils are preferred. The PS92 and LX 92 coils are over kill for most Normally aspirated cars. Either of the Crane 91 series coils will generate enough current and voltage to awaken Frankenstein !!! Do use premium quality spiral core wires such as NGK, Magnacore, MSD or Aurora. Note that Nology, Taylor and " Quality " are not used in the same sentence. BTW, when we mention HI-6 we are talking about the CDI Box. It can be triggered by points, Magnetic or Variable Reluctor, Hall effect and Optical The Hi-6S is an inductive box and can only be triggered by a square wave output from a stock ignition module OR an Optical Trigger ( Hall and Magnetic/VR will not work. Crane makes an Optical trigger conversion for points dizzy's . LED is 700-0020 and Optical Wheel kit is 700-2292 http://www.summitracing.com/int/parts/crn-700-2292/overview/ http://www.summitracing.com/int/parts/crn-700-0020/requiredparts/part-type/electronic-distributor-conversion-kits Or you could use a Pertronix Optical LED.

It is not very easy getting the old terminals out of those connectors. Just be warned it can be a royal PITA. Personally, if I was replacing all the terminals, ( which is a good idea ), I would not even consider trying to remove the old terminals and re-populate the new connectors. Why use old corroded terminals ( that are difficult to properly clean ), when you can put in shiny new parts? It can actually take you longer to properly clean corroded terminals than to crimp on brand new ones. This is one of those jobs you don't want to do twice. Link to DIY on removal of old clips. It's a fiddly job at best. Side cutters, a crimper and new terminals are so much easier: http://atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/injectors/connectors/index.html Link to complete terminal kit without pigtails. One of the members from HyBrid Z ( FricFrac ) sells these kits. I've bought a kit from him and it's very nice quality. http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/103849-wiring-harness-repair-kit-eliminate-your-electrical-gremlins/ https://www.facebook.com/mackay.power.products

There are two ways you can buy those connector kits on E-Bay. With or with out attached Pigtails. It actually may be easier to buy the kits without the attached pigtails. They come with all the metal connectors and rubber seals. You just cut you old wire off and crimp on the new terminal. juts like a Weatherpack terminal. A good set of AMP/Weatherpack style crimpers is essential. You also have to inspect how good the original wiring is and if you have enough slack left after cutting off the old terminal. As I recall, the AFM wiring doesn't have a lot of slack in it. Double check before you buy. I have one 280Z that I'm repairing with the pigtails because the wiring is in poor shape. I'm going to solder new wires onto the pigtails, use heat shrink on all the joints, replace the horrible bullet connectors with Deutsch connectors and make new cover looms with TechFlex braided loom. A bit more work but will be a lot more tidy and reliable. On another car, the owner wants to keep it looking as stock as possible and the wiring is in reasonable shape. With that one I will get the terminals without pigtails and just re-terminate all of the connectors. The new style connectors with spring clips are a big improvement over those stoopid little wire clips that have to be pried off... then go flying into the Twilight Zone.

I'm converting my 1976 280Z to a Haltech E11 stand alone ECU. Haven't made up my mind on which way I'll go with the ignition system. I've got all the parts to do the following. 1: 280ZX Turbo Optical dizzy with a Crane HI-6S ( inductive box ) triggering either an MSD Blaster 2 coil or a Crane PS91 2: 280ZX Turbo Optical dizzy with a Crane HI-6 ( CDI box ) triggering either an MSD Blaster 2 coil or a Crane PS91 3: COP setup with 6 LS2 Yukon coils. I like the retro look of the dizzy with spark plug wires and a single coil. However, the Haltech loom is pre-assembled with the COP LS2 loom and came with six used LS 2 coils. A little easier to hook up electrically, but harder to fabricate brackets. I'll likely sell what ever I don't use.

Nice choice on the XR3000. They are much better than Petronix, quality wise, and put out a more powerful spark. Especially with the PS91 coil.

George : Get rid of that glass inline fuel filter ( Mr Gasket? ) They are terribly restrictive. There is a thread on these horrible things elsewhere. They cause a big pressure drop and that can actually cause Vapor lock in hot weather. They act like an AC orifice valve. Go back to the stock Nissan filter or put in a REAL high performance fuel filter. I've used a Fram HPG-1 on many race and street cars: You can run some Neoprene fuel lines from the HPG-1 and get rid of the steel tubing. That is one of the solutions covered. Or you could even put in proper AN style braided hose. That would be my choice. Summit ot Jeg's would be my vendor of choice for AN fittings. . http://www.summitracing.com/int/parts/frm-hpg1/overview/

Yeah.. it looks like a pretty sweet setup. carbon Fiber heat shield as well.

I'm sure there are fabricators in California that can Custom make SS headers for Datsuns. We have an several excellent Datsun specialists up in BC who can fabricate them. One of them is Specialty Engineering. Here is a sample of some of their SS work: http://www.specialtyengineering.ca/exhaust_headers.html

Study these designs to give you some ideas on heat shields:

I'll give you a hand clap because you're finally on the right track. I was trying to lead you in that direction, but finally gave up out of frustration. Maybe it's for the best, as now you're finally starting to do some research and look for answers yourself, instead of being spoon fed everything and then spitting it back out!! Sometimes ya gotta throw a person in the deep end and let them sink or swim for themselves. You made a very revealing post in one of your many threads ( months ago ) , that your car didn't stumble and die in the shade. That is a direct indication of fuel peculation and your first big clue as to what the real problem was... The larger heat shield is an excellent idea, and the smart racers up here run full heat shield that actually follow the contours of the inner fender well to seal off any heat getting to the float bowls and carbs. Make it out of stainless steel sheet ( not aluminium ) SS tends to reflect heat not absorb it . If you really want to do a good job, make it a double layer of SS sheet with a sandwich of heat isolating matting between. If you really want to go Big School, use some Gold colored reflective foil on the sheet facing the exhasut manifold. You could also take the exhaust manifold off and have it Ceramic coated on the outside. That dramatically reduces the amount of heat that the exhaust manifold radiates. Ceramic coated headers would do the same thing. Even just sand blasting your exhasut manifold and painting it with WHITE or SILVER VHT Ceramic paint would work quite well. The fuel hose re-routing will also definitely help, reroute the fuel hose/tubing around the back of the firewall and cover it in Fire sleeve. Oh yeah... and run a 160F thermostat for your climate. Not a 170F or 180F. A 160F Thermostat will give you some extra over head in Traffic when the heat starts to climb in the engine compartment. Losing 10 degrees here and 5 degrees there all adds up. You just have to get below that tipping point. Here are some links to Heat reflective matting, foils and heat sleeves that you should consider: https://www.wirecare.com/braided-sleeving.asp#extreme-temperature https://www.wirecare.com/products.asp?prodline=grf Design Engineering Inc is a manufacturer of heat reflective materials for all forms of Motorsport. They have many products that you can utilize to eliminate your peculation problem. http://www.designengineering.com/catalog/design-engineering-inc Check out their heat and sound reflecting materials. http://www.designengineering.com/catalog/design-engineering-inc/heat-sound-barrier Make up some proper Custom heat shields, Ceramic coat the exhaust manifold ( Hell even just sand blast it and paint it with White VHT Paint ) , Re-route and insulate the fuel lines and run a 160F thermostat. By the time you get all this done, I'm willing to bet you won't even need the electric fans.