Chickenman

I think we all knew a cute little Italian girl named Gina at one point in our lives... sigh. Just a coincidence...

Ah yes.... fond memories. I wonder what cute little Gina is doing now?

^ Crane Ignition products X2. Much better quality than MSD. Crane ignition boxes ( or anything else ) rarely fail.

You're actually in a Hot Bed for Datsun enthusiasts. Lots of local 510's and the Z cars are starting to come out of the Woodwork as well. Tons of guys and shops around with Datsun experience. Most are all ex-racers or current racers. Want parts and info locally? Log onto: http://www.the510realm.com/ . Lots of local help there for any Datsuns. Byron510 and Bertvorgon are just two of the local members on The510Realm who can point you towards spare parts such as Tranny's, engines, suspension parts etc. Lots of local cruises as well, and they even invite us Pointy Nose Cars Go see Marty McKinney at Southside Nissan ( Vancouver ) for any OEM Datsun parts you need. Or Bruce Yeo at Coquitlam Nissan or Glen Goodwin at West Cost Nissan ( Maple Ridge ) all are top notch Datsun Parts Managers who know their stuff, All are ex-racers and willing to go the extra mile to find rare parts. As for Bearings. Pull the old bearings out, get the numbers stamped on them and visit a local bearing wholesaler. BC Bearing or places like that. They usually have everything in stock. Nissan bearings are pretty common industry standards. Lordco could get them as well, but you'll pay more for the same bearing. If you want a recommendation for a shop to rebuild your Transmission, take it to Berts Automotive in Surrey. Talk to Georges Kreuzkamp... tell him Chickenman sent you. George is a long time Datsun racer and really knows his stuff. http://www.bertsauto.com/home.php A bit closer to you is Specialty Engineering out by Boundary Bay Airport. Andy Pearson is the owner. Top notch work and fabrication. Datsun specialist's par excellance... Might cost a little bit more than the average shop, but excellent work usually does. And it will be done right... ALWAYS!! http://www.specialtyengineering.ca/ Hope this helps.

I seem to remember that some of the 240Z models had plastic insulators where the fuel rail attached to the mount. Like a plastic sleeve. Can someone have a close look? We always ran our 240Z's with the back of the hood open about 1/2" to 3/4" when racing. Seemed to help.

The heat transferring via the rail mounts is a very good observation. Would explain why wrapping the rails in insulation does not help all that much and why on FI cars, switching to an Aluminium rail usually eliminates vapor lock. The aluminum rail will dissipate heat a lot faster. I always buy lots of ice cold bottled water when travelling in the summer. Stop for fuel. One bottle of water for me... two to pour over the fuel rail LOL.

The condenser attached to the coil is just a noise suppression device for better radio reception. Primarily on the AM Band. Not sure on the value, but it's not terribly important. Scrounge one off of any car in the wrecking yard. They'll be close enough. There's one on the alternator as well.

Ummm... I don't quite understand what you're getting at. The explanation you provide in Honsowetz' book ( and many other sources ) states that the stock pumps and Competition pumps deliver the same Volume ( amount of Oil ). All of the internal components ( with the exception of the relief spring ) are the same. Only the Turbo pump has larger gears and housing and is thus able to pump more volume. Pressure and Volume are NOT the same thing. It's been covered in many, many different articles. " How to Modify Datsun L-Series Engines " is not the only source on this". Bottom line: 15010-A1110 Competition pump pumps the same volume of oil as the stock 15010-21001 oil pump, It just has a higher pressure relief spring.

Coll... I kind of figured that Nissan may have used the same parts on the Roadster 2000. Thanks for confirming. GL with the tranny.

Edit: I missed seeing the Inertia switch in Jarvo2's wiring diagram. Always a very good idea. Another good idea when wiring in an electric fuel pump for carburated cars is to incorporate a " Crash switch " that cuts off power to the electric fuel pump in the event of an accident. Ford makes a Fuel Cut Off switch that is cheap and can be bought new ( Ford, Napa, Autozone, Summit Racing ) or found in about any wrecking yard. Simple Inertia switch that could save your life. Raw fuel being pumped unto Red Hot exhaust with an unconscious driver is not a good scenario...

The 15010-A1110 is just the standard oil pump with stiffer relief springs. It pumps the same volume as a standard pump. The 15010-S8000 Turbo pump has physically larger gears and pumps about 15% more volume. Extra volume is needed to supply the Turbo, which has essentially a large oil leak back to the oil pan ( oil cooled journal bearings ) . You can raise the pressure on a standard pump with a .10c modification. A couple of small washers in the end cap that holds the relief springs. Nissan Comp also had stiffer relief springs at one time that you could buy. I think they they were about $2.50 in 1975 dollars. The stock pump was more than adequate for most Autocross and many Race engines back in the good ol' days when we used Wet sumps. The S8000 is the pump to have for a modified vehicle these days. As to what it's worth. Whatever the market will bear. To a regular weekend racer... probably not a lot. They'll go for the .10c worth of washers. To a Vintage Racer or a Collector... it could be worth quite a bit more. Having the original box makes it worth a lot more to a collector. But Oil pumps aren't exactly big collectibles item either.

Another fan that also moves a ton of air is the large single fan from a mid 1980's Camaro or Firebird. 1984 or 1985 non/AC V8 cars have them. They are larger in diameter than the double fans and come with a shroud. The shroud is very important as it makes the fan much more efficient and pulls air through all of the fins of the Radiator. I always ran my Fan relay connected to the ground side of the fan. Then i could add an additional fan to a Toggle switch that grounded the relay, so I could use it as an over ride when necessary. This came in very handy when I was sitting on the start line at an Autocross or Hillclimb. Kept engine temps from climbing too fast and causing fuel peculation on really hot days. ( 450 hp Carburated Camaro )

That looks really nice. Wish I had gone with 15's. Hind site is 20/20 though. I'd even go with a 205/50 x 15" on a lowered car.

Personally, I wouldn't go with a solid mount. They will transmit a lot more Noise, Vibration and Harmonics than a rubber mount, especially on a DD . Just my .02c

If I was replacing the plugs, I wouldn't go with the early 240z style. I'd use modern Deutsch connectors. Assuming you aren't worried about authenticity. I'm using Deutsch connectors on some of my AC connectors. Much more reliable and weatherproof than the factory parts. .

I'm wondering if they upgraded the wiring size on the 280Z and used heavy duty contacts in the TS switch? I'm thinking they have. I've got a 1976 280Z with the factory wiring and the lighting doesn't seem to be an issue. Mind you, I have upgraded the alternator, cleaned all the terminal connections with Weicon Electrical Contact Spray ( awesome stuff ). Cleaning the electrical connections up front made a big difference. I'm also running Cibie H4 headlights, and those were really bright after cleaning the connections. I'll have to check the voltage drop one of these days.

Good excuse to build a stroker now !!. If the key-way is damaged on the crank it's probably damaged the damper as well. Don't use either if damaged. I had a damper come loose while road racing. Bent the snout of the crank, ruined the key-way and destroyed the oil pump worm gear. Danged lucky it didn't come off completely. Edit: BTW.. it would be a good idea to replace the oil pump drive gear on the crank as a precaution. A loose harmonic balancer can cause unusual wear patterns to develop on the worm gear and fatigue cracks to develop.

Rocka Auto has A1-Cardone remanufactured 1979 -1981 ZX Matchbox dizzy's on for $103.79. That's a pretty danged good deal. You'll need a matching new cap and rotor as well, but RA sells those too. Part #31-619: http://www.cardone.com/Products/Product-Detail?productId=31619&p=rock

IMHO. A Crane HI-6 CD box is the best way to go. I've run them since the mid 90's. Much more reliable than MSD 6 series and the Crane will work with points, Magnetic or VR reluctor, Hall sensors and Optical sensors. Combine it with a LX91 or PS91 coil and you are golden. Nascar starting using Crane systems in the late 90's and failures became so rare that many teams eliminated the " Back-up " ignition box that was the common setup with MSD. As far as Pertronix, I've read and heard about far too many failures. Most of them heat related. Sometimes making things smaller just doesn't work in electronic's. Hi current switching Transistors don't scale down in size very well....especially to sub-miniture SMD size.

Permatex Ultra Copper also works very well for sealing exhaust flanges and gaskets. About the only thing that will live on Turbocharger flanges other than V-Bands. Use the Nissan factory gasket.

Small Block Chevy motors use full length pan re-enforcing rails. I don't know why Datsun only used half length rails.

Those flat steel plates are to distribute the load on the gasket more evenly and to prevent dimpling the pan rail. They help prevent leaks. ( #33 ) 11124-P6500 and ( #37 ) 11123-N4200

The thing is...K&N never advertises about it's ability to filter extremely fine dirt particles. It's always about more airflow, more HP or never having to buy another air filter because you can clean it. And that's all true.... even if the HP gains are minimal.

The 1975/1976 Fuel Tanks have the Fuel Sending unit located half way up the side of the tank, not on top like the 77's and 78's. The earlier models are more prone to leaking from the sending unit O-Ring because it is below the level of the fuel when the Tank is over 50% full. My sending unit was leaking around the 3 electrical wire connections that exit from the fuel sending unit. There are some small compressed O-Rings on the inner side of the sending unit. These O-Rings tend to dry out and crack with age. Unfortunately, it is next to impossible to replace them as they are Rivetted in place. Only leaked when tank was more than 3/4 full. Might be something to check. The 1976 Fuel sending units are nearly impossible to find. I've been looking for NOS over a year. What I did for a fix was to remove the sending unit from the tank, Then I thoroughly cleaned all around the terminals ( inside and out ) with a Dremel and Wire Brush. JB Weld makes an excellent product called " Water Weld " . This is about the only epoxy that will seal fuel tanks. Regular JB Weld will eventually dissolve in Gas or Diesel. This stuff will not. It is Gasoline, Diesel, Oil Hydraulic Fluid and Chemical resistant. It will cure under water... which, I guess , is why they call it " Water Weld ". After cleaning around connections I laid a bead of this stuff on the inside and outside of the connectors. This seems to have stopped the leak permanently. I can now fill the fuel tank up and no more leaks on the ground. I'm still looking for a replacement Fuel sending unit though. As with any Epoxies or Glues, proper surface preparation and claening is essential. http://www.jbweld.com/products/waterweld-epoxy-putty

I think the Cam grinder ripped them off. That cam did not appear to need need welding. ( Actually, looked pretty darned good on the Cam Doctor ) You can grind them down to a very small base circle... and then just add thicker lash pads. In fact, some of the solid core cams are preferred because you can machine the center core smaller in diameter and get really big lifts and duration. This is called an " undercut ". I've had it done to some of my H-Lift/Duration A12 cams and L-24 cams when I was racing. Of course, if you want to maintain stock lash pads, then welding is necessary. Stock lash pad thickness is around .118". Competition Lash Pads are available in .010" increments from .130" to .300+" . That allows for a whole lot of material to be taken off the Lobes if necessary.