Chickenman

This is the style of bracket you want. The left side mau be hard to find.

Took me a bit of digging through invoices. A1_Cardoen Part numbers with large frame. Right rear = 19B978A Left rear = 19B978A Edit: If memory serves me correct, the suffix " A " is the difference between frame size.with A1-Cardone. Still could be a crap shoot on whether or not you get the correct caliper frame size. We ordered some AC Delco professional series. The left caliper has a large frame and the right caliper had a small frame. FFS!!!

That's pretty common with lowering springs. You will not have any pre-load and the spring will rattle a bit at full droop. Find a different shop. They just don't want to do the job, or are idiots. Body shops are NOT the place to take a car for mechanical repairs. Lots of people running Vogtland springs with KYB shocks in stock struts. No issues at all. Edit: I had Eibach lowering springs with KYB shocks in my 1976 280Z. No issues aa all. Other than the front Eibach springs were a bit too soft ( Progressive ) for my taste. Eibach and Vogtland springs lower an S30 nearly the same amount. The Vogtlands; are a bit stiffer I believe. I've since switched to Coil overs up front and modified the rear setup. Not sure what you are referring to as a strut spacer, but nothing has to be removed. If by strut spacer you mean a shock Bump stop ( Fits over shock absorber shaft ), then you may want to shorten the bump stop by the amount the springs lower the car ( about 1.0" ). To maintain full suspension travel. But Eibach or Vogtland street lowering springs are usually not an issue. They only lower the car a moderate amount.

For those of you thinking of a switch to Maxima rear calipers on their S30 I have a bit of a warning. I installed the Z Car Depot rear emergency cable brackets on my 1976 280Z. I am using the larger 11.4" / 289 mm rotors off the Canadian model NA 300ZX . This requires a 1986 Maxima rear caliper which has a larger frame offset than the smaller 10.1"/ 256mm . Note that reman calipers often have the wrong frames supplied. So it can be a real PITA finding the correct frames for the larger rotors. Took us Four sets of calipers to finally find the correct ones. Note. A-1 cardone and Centric seem to be the only manufacturers that list the different frame brackets. Any how. Two problems with the Z Car depot calipers. 1: As delivered. The center hole is too small for the 280Z rear cable to fit through. It has to be drilled larger by about 0.80". Actually a carbide tipped grinder works better as the hole has a cutout to slip the cable through. That causes the Drill to " walk " and create an oblong hole. Nuts!! 2: If you are using the larger 289mm 300ZX rotors, the cable bracket will align the emergency cable smack dab in the middle of your rear sway bar. Not good. You have to Bend the bracket some more to change the angle. Not good as it's freakin" thick. 3: If you are using the smaller 256 mm 300ZX rotors, you will probably be OK... as the emergency cable should now clear the rear sway bar. I needed the larger rear rotors to balance my brake bias. I have 11.750" front rotors with Z32 4 Pot aluminium calipers. Need all the rear brake I can get.

It's a " Mass damper " . I believe Nissan used it to combat a noise issue from the diff of the R200's. Some of the gear whine or singing which seems to be fairly common on the R200. There may be TSB on it...

^ Must be nice to have a portable laser cutter ? Seriously. How did you cut those out so nicely. Will you do mine?

Get your new damper. Press it on. As Patcon already mentioned. Measure the thread depth to face of damper hub ( Including washer ) with the depth gauge of Vernier Calipers. Subtract 5mm from measurement to make sure bolt doesn't bottom . Call ARP and tell them you need a Crank damper bolt Xmm x Ymm x Z mm. I'm sure that they will have something close enough. They make all sorts of single use fasteners that are not listed Online nor in their Catalogs.

Guy. We have a local fabricator who is planning on building some custom L-6 EFI IR intake manifolds. He's been sitting on a stash of L-4 EFI manifolds for years and never really marketed them. I'll dig up the link later Byron Meston. Very talented guy and master fabricator. Not so great at Marketing LOL.The local L-6 EFI group has been going crazy with requests for orders. I'll post a link up later in a separate thread.

That's a very reasonable price. Hoping to hear music soon!!

Also known as " The Pit of despair "

Blip at 11.5 seconds was just interference. Black vertical pen marks are beginning and end of Dyno Pull.

Here is a scan of the AFR curve I made back in 2003. 355 cii SBC, mild camshaft. Made 346 RWHP nad 368 RW Torque. Figures later went up a lot higher with a bigger cam and different Intake Manifold. Car passed Air care and got 23 MPG on Hwy. Daily driver . Autocross, Hillclimb and Track Day car. Carb was very trick. Built it myself. Started with a Holley 3310-1 vacuum secondary. Added Holley HP Main body, Annular Boosters, Quick change Vac secondaries. Biggest change was Weber Power plates replacing Holley fuel blocks. This changed carbs from 2 circuit to 3 circuit using DCOE and IDA components. Emulsion Tubes, main Jets , Air bleeds etc. Dyno operator could not believe how flat and accurate the Fuel curve was. we had about a dozen cars at this Test Day. Mine was the only Carbureted car. All the rest were Tunbo Honda's Turbo BMW's and a couple of Corvettes thrown in. Most were stand alone EFI systems. EFI Tunes were all over the place ... just bad Tuners.

It can be. But the easiest way is this: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=aj-Z33MO2Gk Maintaining a decent booster signal while not restricting flow is a major problem of a constant venturi carb. You can make really, really good carbs. Buy it costs $$$$ and lots of R&D time. Look at Nascar and Pro Stock NHRA. Warren Johnston was quoted as keeping over $150,000 worth of carbs in his hauler back in 2000. Each one setup up for varying conditions. Density, ambient temp, grains of air, track condition etc. They have no time between rounds to mess around with changing jetting , Emulsion tubes and air bleeds. Once they got a baseline with the new EFI, they could load a new tune in seconds. And it was much more consistent. Nascar found the same thing. No overall increase in HP ... but off corner driveability and fuel mileage greatly increased. The really big deal was Fuel mileage under yellow flag conditions. And Nascar doesn't even utilize the full potential of the McLaren system. ( No driver adjustable Maps like Indy Car, F1 and WEC )

This just came in very handy. My 1976 Fuel gauge has not been reading accurately ever since I had the fuel sending unit out. Now I know what to do. Also answers, that the Low Fuel light probably does not come on with the bulb check.

Bringing this back from the dead. But on a 1976 280Z does the Low Fuel light come on with the bulb test when ignition is turned on? Everything else does except the low Fuel Light. Pulled it out and tested bulb in its harness. It does work...

In Canada we use 12-A which is a replacement for R12, which is now banned in Canada. 12A is sold by Red-Tek and Dura-Cool. Outperforms R134A and R12. Should be available in the USA. Been using Red-Tek products over 12 years. Great product. AC in my Audi blows 42F with R12a. Even my ancient 280Z AC blows freezy cold air. http://redtek.com/English/product.asp?ID=18

^ Ah... that was a smart idea.

Those aren't really designed for EFI pressure. They are usually meant for lower pressure Carbureted motors. And they have a very small filtering area. Compare it to just a stock Nissan EFI Fuel filter in the engine bay. You would be much better off just using the Nissan Fuel filter..... IMHO I can't quite see if you have the stock Nissan fuel filter in place on the passenger side firewall. It looks like you may. If so, there is no reason for this additional glass filter. The other bad thing about glass fuel filters is they can shatter in an accident. Lovely way to start a fire . Really bad deal if you are knocked unconcious......

Not enough screen capacity and too small of filter media. It will cause a restriction at the pump inlet. Especially on high volume pumps. Personally, I recommend the Holley unit a lot. It has a decent size filter area, 100 microns and the 3/8" NPT fittings are nice. If you have AN fittings I really like the Aeromotive and Fuel Lab units.

Yes, you will get a Water hammer effect in return style EFI system. Particularly bad if you use a Multi Port Mode or Batch Fire Mode with Simultaneous injection and a single squirt that opens all injectors at the same time. Gets really bad with larger injectors. You can often see the pressure pulsing on the FPR gauge if you have large injectors and choose Batch Fire Simultaneous injection 1 squirt. Then change it to Alternating 2 squirts. Same amount of fuel injected per cycle ( 720 degrees ) but pulsations in fuel rail much less with 2 squirts alternating. A liquid filled FP gauge can mask this effect. And unless the have a bleeder compensation valve ( $$$ ) the Base reading will vary with engine bay temps. A good undamped ( non-liquid gauge ) is all that is really needed. A lot of the premium high performance EFI regulators are designed so that they operate as both a regulator and a damper. From what I've read on the Aeromotive and Fuel Tech sites.

Hitting the Big Red.... Don't Feed the Troll Button now.

This comes across as a slightly weird and rather insulting Question ZH. Not really any of your business. But I have nothing to hide and it's no secret: Advice is free. Tuning sessions are not. I've tuned several members cars on both Hybrid Z and Classic. And it's been mentioned enough times by Customers to seek me out and pay the very reasonable fee's for my services, that I find it hard to believe that you would not have noticed. Hence why I find this question slightly insulting. I offer Paid Remote Tuning sessions will full unlimited support to my Customers. And I have a steadily growing list of satisfied ( Paid ) clients. Just did three Remote Tuning sessions over the Easter weekend. One in Arizona, one in Chicago and one in New Zealand. I try treat these people in a Professional manner and as if they are personal friends. I offer Guarantees on services provided ( You aren't satisfied... you don't pay me. Simple ) , unlimited support after initial Tuning session, often for months after the original tuning session and also spend countless hours sorting issues out engine and hardware, wiring issues with the installs . I keep Logs of all E-mail messages, engine specs , Data Logs , Tune modifications on each individual "Customer ". Is it a Business? Well I never said that. If it was, it would be a very poor Business model as my Time invested with each Tune in no way equates to my Fee's charged. To me it's just an interesting Hobby. Something I'm good at and people recognise that. I can help out the Community while putting away a few extra dollars to pay for parts on my Z. I should make it a Business as I could get some big Tax write offs.... but that' a PITA for Paperwork.... and I'm just not that smart. Hope that satisfies your " Verification process "....

The Aeromotive link ( Tech article 101 ) that I provided explains things very, very well Fuel Lab and other HP Fuel supply companies all follow the same criteria. 24 Microns sounds way too small regardless of the advertising blurb. Especially if you are running a High performance Fuel pump with a lot of volume. Problem with that small of a filtering capacity, is that fine particles can plug up the Medium very quickly. Aeromotive and other high performance pump Manufacturers recommend a 100 Micron large capacity, non restrictive pre-filter ( or sock/strainer on Intank pumps ) and a 10 Micron large capacity filter post pump but before the injectors. Edit: Dave can you provide a direct link to the Fleetguard product. Hopefully with pictures and full specs. And what F/Pump are you using. Engine specs?

Holley makes a a couple . 100 Microns SS mesh with 3/8 NPT. So you can go with either hose barbs or AN fittings as you wish. 175 GPH : https://www.summitracing.com/int/parts/hly-162-553 100 GPH: https://www.summitracing.com/int/parts/hly-162-551

Wasn't there a thread on here about those Gaud awful " Glass " fuel filters. I I recall it was rather amusing. Someone was not at all happy with " Mr. Gasket "......