Chickenman

The above links are for 6 pieces per set. You can also buy single units direct from Parma. The arms ( 402S ) are .95 cents each and the buttons ( 401S ) are .80 cents each: http://parmapse.shptron.com/c/slot-car-racing_parma-hand-controllers_replacement-parts_trigger-parts

Ok, this is going to sound really strange... but that looks EXACTLY the same size and shape of a Parma Slot Car controller wiper arm. I kid you not. I just happen to have a nearly new Parma Plus controller in my stuff and I swear it would fit. Even has the correct curve to the arm and a Bronze button. Those arms are readily available from Various Slot Car vendors..... You need two parts, The arm and the button. The Button can be " swaged " into place with a small ball bearing and hammer or a dull Center punch. Or you can solder the Button on. Arm: http://www.professormotor.com/product-p/p402.htm Button: http://www.professormotor.com/product-p/p401.htm

^ That's what I was thinking. You can install the short arm that is attached to the wiper motor shaft 180 degrees out. If that is done you can still attach the main linkage to the arm, but it will be in the wrong position to actually MOVE the linkage and it will lock up solid. Guess how I know....

... or when they go to emissions testing with their TDI

I like the Aud/VW solution. They have several blanks for auxiliary switches in the dash. Various things such as front and rear Fog lights that are options. But they sell a matching accessory switch labelled " Funk ". I kid you not. Some guys use these to trigger their amplifiers or Methanol Injection ( Turbo's ) etc..

I think you could be right... Rod Lovett had the exact same problem on his Supercharged 260Z with an aftermarket dizzy cap. Disintegrated the dizzy center button. Brand new Aftermarket parts. Quality of parts is so hit and miss these days.... He's trying a Genuine Nissan cap now ( still available ) to see if that cures his problem. MSD 6AL ignition with MSD Blaster 2 coil.

Jim, I looked up the Bosch 03014 cap at Rock Auto and it comes up with a 1968 Porsche 911 listing. OEM Bosch cap is only $19.68 CDN. You could ask Rock Auto if they will ship via United States Postal Service. USPS does not charge the outrageous " Brokerage " Fee's that FedEx, UPS, Purolator etc charge for cross border shipping. I live close enough to the Border that I just keep a USA address at Mail Boxes International. Comes in very handy for shipping. Saves a lot of freight and " handling " charges.

Hey Jim. Might be interesting to measure the resistance on the Bosch carbon button and the MSD one. Off to check my 280ZX dizzy button now. Edit: Beck Arnley 280ZX Turbo center button reads 3 ohms, so that is a low resistance button obviously. Hard to gauge how hard or soft the material is though. The MSD buttons, being made of a bronze material stand up very well.

Melting of GM distributor caps ( and others ) is well documented in many High Performance Ignition books and I've personally seen lots of melted GM caps ( around the center button ) from high heat when high current coils are used and the stock High Resistance button is not changed.. Not just my own stuff, but many Autocrossers working with the HEI dizzy's. I use Standard Blue Streak " X " series caps ( Premium line ) which are top of the line. Better than MSD quality wise and even those will melt because of the high resistance stock GM buttons. Nothing to do with poor rotor contact as we are dealing with new High quality race parts..... although poor contact or corrosion certainly doesn't help. And yes you can fry the coil or modules in addition to melting the cap if you get unlucky. Arcing creates a huge amount of EMF that internal dizzy modules don't like. And the coils will get danged hot as well. Internal coils are the worst for heat failure. That's why I always converted all of my HEI systems to external coil and external Ignition box. The large dizzy cap was about the only thing really good about the HEI dizzy's in race applications. MSD " Cap Adapt " with the large diameter Ford type caps was a good choice as well. The larger diameter really helps to dissipate ionized gases in addition to other benefits. Quality of the center Carbon brush on aftermarket Dizzy caps also varies greatly. Some of the aftermarket parts ( all makes of cars ) are a very soft carbon and just seem to disintegrate when too much current is passed thru them. The stock GM brush and the Standard Blue Streak X series seems to be pretty hard and durable, which is why it melts the cap instead of the brush disintegrating.

Mopac usually stocks them as well. Do you still have a Mopac in Calgary?

Regarding the disintegrating center button. I've seen this happen before on various ignitions with very strong Ignition boxes ( CDI ) and/or stronger coils. The center button is carbon and may have too much resistance. This causes it to overheat and either melt the distributor cap, or the carbon button starts to flake apart. Once the flaking starts, then you get arcing and it's bye bye carbon button. This is a common problem with GM HEI ignitions that have had stronger coils installed. The solution is to replace the center Carbon button with a low resistance Bronze button. It just so happens that MSD makes these for HEI dizzy caps and with a bit of machining could be made to fit stock Datsun, Bosch or Mallory caps ( MSD 8412 ). Mallory may even have a low resistance button. A local Z member had this exact problem on a aftermarket cap with a too soft carbon button. I've actually melted GM HEI caps around the button holder with Crane PS91 coils when I forgot to switch in the low resistance MSD button. That's how hot the carbon button got. Here's a link to the MSD part. BTW, Jim ... Lordco can get them. http://www.summitracing.com/int/parts/msd-8412/overview/ Edit: Must remember to do this when I switch over to my Haltech setup this winter.Will be running a Crane Hi-6 CDI box with a 280ZX Turbo Dizzy. Probably will need the bronze button. .

Tofino!! Small world. I was vacationing there on Sept 12th to 14th. When were you there and where did you stay? I was at the Duffin Cove Resort. Lovely little bed and breakfast right on the Ocean. Weather was beautiful. 25 to 27 C on Saturday and Sunday. Just got back from the Island yesterday. Nice little drive isn't it Jim?

This is a problem I'm dealing with on my 280Z as well. Have the MSA rear T/L box and some Pioneer 6 x 9 speakers, but it really needs something up front as well. Miata seats may work, but I don't like the cloth finish. I wonder if they come in Black Leather? My Audi A4 has a component speaker system and they place small Mid-Range speakers and Tweeters up high in the front door, with 6" rounds in the rear Parcel shelf. It sounds really good.

As Zed Head suggested, going to a modern Digital stand alone sytem would be the best way.... IMHO. Megasquirt, Haltech, AEM, Autronic all make incredible systems. All have built in Data logging and all have massively more control than the Dinosaur of an Analog ECU. The ability to tune for a modified engine and to see the results in Real Time are essential in my books. Plus you can get rid of other Archaic systems such as the AAR valve, Cold Start valve, Thermo-Time switch and dual pickup dizzy's. BTW, you can pick up some good deals on used systems if you know what to look for. A lot of te DSM and Japanese tuners tend to upgrade to the " latest and greatest " when it comes out. A 5 to10 year old Haltech, for example, is still a very, very good stand alone ECU.

As others have pointed out, pan and block prep are essentail. Pan should be as straight as possible with any " dimples " ( caused by over tightening ) flattened with a hammer and dolly. All traces of oil must be removed from both mating surfaces. That means oil pan and block. Acetone, Brake Cleaner or Lacquer thinner ( My favorite ) are what you use. Do not use solvent or piant thinner as these contain petroleum distilants ( oils ), Hylamar is good to coat on one side if you plan on removing the parts often as some racers do. It's desogned for machined surfaces so only use Hylamar on the block side of the gasket and Permatex Aviataion Form - A - Gasket on the other. For a street machine Permatex Aviation Form - A - Gasket can be used on both sides of the gasket. I've never had any gasket leak when Aviation cement is used ( with proper prep work ) . It's worked for me for over 40 years. Both for street use and racing. Some guys ( mainly Drag eRacers ) don't like it because it can be difficult to get off. If you're dropping oil pans all the time to change bearings etc, it can be a PITA. But on a street car you want to do the job ONCE. Here is the Technical info on Permatex Aviation Form - A - Gasket. BTW, the " Aviation " part is no small deal. It is certified for Aviation use which is a good thing in anyones books: https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct=j&q=&esrc=s&source=web&cd=2&ved=0CCQQFjABahUKEwi84de8y_bHAhUFOIgKHWmBDrQ&url=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.permatex.com%2Fcomponent%2Fdocuments%2F%3Fview%3Dtds%26format%3Draw%26filename%3D80019.pdf%26market%3Dautomotive&usg=AFQjCNGlUa-R065BuHrt4vMgonIf2y8kmg&cad=rja

See comment above. Not a good idea, IMHO. Cork gaskets and RTV = Splitsville. Been a long time since I've looked at one, but I'm pretty sure that the Factory Nissan oil pan gaskets are a thick fiber composite material ( Not cork ). The factory composite materials are much stronger than cork. Similar material to the factory Nissan VC gaskets which are a thick composite fiber material.

Permatex and Felpro recommend that you do NOT use RTV and gaskets together. Use one or the other. Using RTV on a gasket can cause movement or " Fretting " between the mounting surfaces. The RTV will accomadate this movement, but the gasket will not. The result being that the gasket will split or tear from vibrational movement.. Pernatex Aviation Form a gasket ( Brush on style non-hardening) is very good for sealing paper, composite and cork gaskets. Newer cars that are designed with dedicated RTV sealing also have channels machined in the surfacesto allow a bead of RTV to be deposited. Older cars don't have these channels so the RTV can be squezzzed out of the joint and may not seal as well as intended.

^ Yeah... agree 100%. Pull the Timing Cover and W/Pump and inspect those for corrosion as well.

I've used any of the conventional green antifreeze/coolants for many years in aluminium head engines. Usually Prestone, Zerex or Peak. Change every 4 - 5 years to keep anti corrosion additives fresh. Never mix AF colors, Especially Green and Red ( Dexcool ) . Mixing Dexcool with green AF will cause the coolant to congeal into a jelly like sludge and can plug everything up solid.

Yes, the 240Z wheel will bolt right up. Belts are about as easy as it can get. 1: Alternator/Fan belt. Loosen adjusting bolt on top and two pivot bolts on bottom. Rotate alternator and slip belt off. Belt can be maneuvered around fan blades to remove. Some people like to remove the Fan blade and thermo-coupling to make things easier. Four 6mm ( 10mm wrench size ) nuts hold fan assembly onto W/Pump. 2: AC belt. Remove Fan belt. Loosen center nuts on AC Belt idler pulley. Wind down long threaded adjustment bolt to release tension on AC belt. Remove belt. Assembly is in reverse order. Check the AC idler pulley bearing for wear or noise. The bearing is replaceable and is a standard sealed Ball bearing available at any bearing supply shop. Bearing number is stamped on outer case. Note: It is advisable to pop off one of the rubber seals with a small screwdriver and re-pack the bearing with a good bearing grease. Bearings these days are scrimping on the grease and often don't come packed with enough in them. Makes for a short life but lots of extra bearing sales....

With coolant looking like that and the muck on the Thermostat it would probably be a good idea to pull the Rad and have it " Boiled " out at a Rad shop. You may have to do the same with the heater core. On second thought, with aluminum rads so cheap on E-Bay these days it may be worthwhile just getting a new Rad. Depends what condition the current Rad is in. Re-torque the head bolts and see if that stops the coolant leak at the head and block.

Yep, same here. Bought my first set of Cibies around 1974. Also tried some some SEV Marshals ( Datsun 510 Rally car ) . The Sev Marshalls were pretty dang good in their day... but nothing could touch the Cibies. It takes a Top quality Euro or Japanese HID system to equal a Cibie these days.... IMHO Edit: Sleepy now. Mission accomplished... back to bed. ZZZZzzzzz

Woke up at 3:00 AM with insomnia again, so I thought I'd just add some further information ( or rambling ) that I've gathered over the years when Rallying and researching H/Light bulb design. I think Daniel Stern has some links to this on his site. The newer composite designs enable the manufacturers to do something that is very important to them. Save money.... by designing headlamps with a plastic reflector housing. The composite bulb holder isolates heat from the bulb. That prevents melting the plastic H/Lamp reflector, but also shortens bulb life as mentioned. It also limits the use of Hi-Power bulbs like 80/100 as they simply get too hot and the filaments fail in a very short time. ( And is is some what easier for consumers to install. Those danged clips and clasps can be PITA... especially on important stuff like Bra's... ) If you look at a well engineered H-4 H/lamp ( Cibie, Bosch, Hella ) or any of the designs with metal bulb bases, you will see that they incorporate a metal mounting ring on the reflector and the reflector itself is a metal shell. The whole reflector of the H/Lamp is used as a heat sink. The metal reflector is Plasma sprayed with glass on both sides to prevent corrosion, but the metal mounting ring itself is masked off to promote good heat conduction. Very clever engineering. I've always found car with 7" H/lamps and H-4's to be excellent design. Large symmetrical reflector housing = Good light spread with accurate focusing.

I saw a 240Z the other day with some of those new Multi-Bulb LED head lamps. Looked like some sort of bug eyed Monster. Just looked wrong to me...

Why the H13 specifically? From what I understand they are for DRL/Projector design headlamps. Not designed for old style 7" reflector lamps. As far as a 7" lamp with an H-13 bulb, I'm not sure that you'd find any. No real point to manufacture and would require a complete redesign of the reflector. H-4 system is still one of the best bulb designs ever made. Better in some ways than newer composite designs, but more expensive to make. Rally drivers like them because the metal base acts as a heat sink and that extends bulb life. Important with high wattage bulbs, but also extends regular wattage bulb life. If you've never driven with a set of Cibie headlamps before, you owe it to yourself to give them a try. They are truly a wonderful lamp.