Chickenman

I'm going to try a Cell Phone liquid scratch protector. I've got some Liquid Armor screen protector by Dynaflo. Stuff works great on Cell phone screens. Should work on clear H/Lite covers as well. Check out this video!!: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sp_l7Q9rJ4Y http://www.dynaflousa.com/

That's why I always like to use a bending beam or dial indicator Torque wrench on critical fasteners such as head bolts. With those, if a bolt is close or past it's yield point, the Torque reading will stop going up as you turn the wrench. At that point you IMMEDIATELY stop, remove and replace the fastener because the bolt is stretched too far and is about to snap. Click style Torque wrenches will give you no such warning.

Fairly common problem on L-series engines. Re-torquing head gasket may be all it needs. If not..you know what you have to do. Don't forget to check head for straightness.

Have you found a base file ( .msq ) to start with? Should be some .msq files available for the Datsun L-6 on the Megasquirt forums.

This thread got me thinking. Where did my C-Clamp compressor go. I lent it to someone about a year ago...and had completely forgotten about it. Now I can't remember who I lent it to!!

My AC relay was absolutely fried. Replaced it with a Bosch 40 Amp universal relay. Next up is a HD relay kit for Headlamps.

For bench work the C-Clamp style is best IMHO. I prefer this style. The fixture that goes around the valve retainer is a lot less bulky. KD tools make a nice one. Lots of mechanical advantage for high pressure double valve springs. Note the length of the handle. KD 380:

My brake warning relay seems to be OK still. I'm still using an externally regulated Alternator, although that may change down the road. I'm looking at installing an 80 or 90 AMP 1985 Maxima alternator ( Mitsubishi small frame ) down the road

1976 280Z Federal Model ( Arizona car )

Thanks for the concise explanation. My Charge light and Brake warning lamp came on when I blew my Alternator. Was driving me nuts at first. I thought I had some sort of strange wiring short that blew the Alternator circuit and grounded the Brake Warning circuit at the same time. Once I replaced the Alternator the Brake Warning light went out.

For cleaning out the Intake manifold and Combustion chamber, Mopar Combustion Chamber Cleaner is a very good product. One of the strongest available. I used to use it as a Carb cleaning agent and it was the best product that I found. Even better than CRC Carb Cleaner. Use it all at once and be prepared for a BIG smoke show... but it works. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6EZmYyrAU58

Edit: Sorry Tom. I think I mis-read your original post. I thought you wanted to clean Intake valves. On second read, I see that you want to clean the inside of the Intake manifold. I'll leave the following post as it may be useful to others. Take the car to a European Car Specialist or Dealership. BMW, Audi, VW, Mercedes and other manufacturers have terrible problems with deposits building up on Intake valves because of Direct Fuel Injection. These dealerships or specialty shops do " Walnut Blasting " or have similar procedures that clean the Intake valves ( apparently very well ) with no removal of the cylinder head required. Video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ONp6gQXpyKU Before and After comparison: http://www.e90post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=882990 You can also buy the blasting equipment and Walnut Media from Harbor Freight for a reasonable price. Walnut shells are used because they are tough enough to blast away the carbon, but soft enough to not cause any damage to internal engine parts if some particles remain in the cylinder after vacuuming.

I'm just speaking from experience as someone who has used H4's on various cars since the 1970's. Lots of Vintage Datsun 510's up here and very few of them run the boots on any make of H4's. Water ingress is not that big of a deal at all on a Street car. Especially a Z-Car with buckets protecting the H/Lamp And living in the PNW. it rains a ton here. I honestly can't remember anyone ever having issues from running without the boots. Just my .02c... FWIW Edit: BTW.. sealing the bulb with Silicone is not recommended as it increases heat retention and decreases bulb life. Just did some searching on Rally forums and a lot of guys remove the boots when they are using high wattage H4's. They want all the heat dissipation they can get. I had forgotten about that.... Now the 4x4 guys who fjord streams and drive through Mud Bogs are a different story. They do need the boots because of the extreme conditions that they operate in. But I doubt that you'll be driving your " Baby" through any Mud Bogs in the near future...

Personally I would just put them in with no boots. With the bucket surrounding the headlamp, it is not likely very that you are going to get water or dirt in there. Any condensation will be evaporated by the heat generated by the bulb. Those H4's get quite toasty. Especially the high power versions. Back when I used to Rally Datsun 510's in the 1970's, we didn't use any boots on the back of our 5.75" Cibie's and CEV Marshall's. They didn't even come with them back then.

After looking at pictures of Hella boots and Cibie boots, the Hella does appear to be more " bulky ".

That's strange. I've installed Cibie headlamps on both my 71 240Z and now in my current 76 280Z No issue with H/Lamp boot at all. Perhaps the Hella boot is bigger than the Cibie boot? Picture of Cibie boot.

Serviced the Vacuum Selector switch also. New silicone grease as Sarah wrote up. Going to test all the Vacuum Diaphragms with my " Mighty Vac " next. I know the Heater floor vent one works. Sucky test...

Just a follow up on this. There is a design " Flaw " in the Temperature slider for factory AC with Auto AC cars. It looks like they use the same mechanism for both AC and -non-AC cars. The Hot side turned out to be a cable clamp adjusted improperly. Once that was fixed the Temp slider goes all the way to the end of the Hot range. However, when turned to Cold, the slider hits a " Hard Stop " with the lever under the " T " of " Temp", leaving about 1/2" of range un-usable. Turns out the " Hard Stop " is the detent spring and ball holder for the temperature lever. It prevents the last 1/2" of travel... but that is the way it is designed. Just in case anyone else is having sleepless nights wondering about this... While I was under there I pulled the complete Heater motor box to clean things. Heater motor had surprisingly little wear on the brushes and commutator. But there was a fair amount of copper dust from the brushes. I flushed everything with Brake Clean, lubricated the end cover bushing with Amsoil synthetic grease ( there was virtually no grease in the bushing ) and gave the other end a couple of drops of 3 in 1 oil. Motor should be much quieter now. Cleaned up the fan and vents and replaced some of the foam. Should be good for another 37 years. From the condition of the motor, I think the PO had replaced it with a new one sometime ago.

Vogtland is a pretty popular brand with European cars. They have a good reputation for quality products on the Audi and VW forums that I frequent. Same on Bimmer Forums. That's a decent price..... mind you I live in Canada and we're used to paying higher prices than our USA friends.

Robert. Does this car have an EGR valve? An EGR valve that is sticking open could cause these issues that you describe. If it does have an EGR Valve, disconnect the vacuum hose from the EGR valve and plug the hose with a golf tee or something. Do this when the engine is stone cold. Then start and drive the car and see if the symptoms go away. If it does then EGR valve may need servicing or replacing. EGR valves can get choked up with carbon and stick open when they are supposed to be closed. They are supposed to be closed at idle and just off idle. Usually carbon gets stuck between the seat and pintle, or sometimes it builds up on the shaft and only sticks when the EGR valve opens all the way. This can cause rough running, lack of power and backfiring. Just to drive you nuts, it can be intermittent at first. There is a temperature controlled vacuum switch ( Thermal Vacuum Switch = TVS ) that allows vacuum to the EGR valve once the engine is at operating temperature... so that could explain the temperature correlation. The backfire may " shock " the EGR valve and allow it un-stick temporarily. It wouldn't hurt to pull the EGR valve off and have a good hard look at it. Use a vacuum pump or the old " pucker power " to test valve for free operation. You can clean EGR valves with a good strong carb cleaner and some compressed air. It doesn't always work, but it's certainly worth a try if you can't find a new one. Edit: Rock Auto has them for reasonable prices. RA to the rescue again!! Clean out the EGR base ports in the manifold as well. Use a shop vac to suck up the carbon as you poke it loose with a small screwdriver. Hope this helps and report back with results.

That's some good info to know. Thanks Steve. Edit: Is the Maxima Compressor R12 or R134? I can't remember.

Use the GM Friction Modified fluid. It is a specially formulated Semi- Synthetic designed for transmissions with brass synchros. It should make your Transmission shift like butter.

I just measured my rollers and impeller. Rollers are 4.98 - 4.99 mm and impeller is 5.34 mm. Clearance of .35mm Richard

You should be able to lap both the end cap and the motor plate to eliminate the wear marks. Edit: The Z Car Depot has new pumps for $269 USD. That's cheaper than other vendors have which range from $450 to $750. $269 is not bad for these pumps if you require the OEM Jeco pump for restoration purposes. Otherwise I would just install an aftermarket Turbine style pump like an Airtex E8312. Here is the link to the Jeco pump for $269 USD. They ship WorldWide: http://www.ebay.com/itm/Datsun-280Z-280ZX-1975-83-Fuel-Pump-Fuel-injection-OEM-Genuine-NEW-/321802193884?fits=Make%3ANissan|Model%3A280Z&hash=item4aece7cbdc&vxp=mtr

Dang.... Have the old pump and everything is in excellent condition, virtually no wear.. except I dropped it and knocked a big chip out of the center section right where the O-ring seats. Sorry.....