Chickenman

I think it would be worthwhile rebuilding this as a spare pump. The end plate can be lapped to remove the wear marks no problem. On second thought. Let me go downstairs and check the shelves. I may still have my old pump there. Center section was in good shape as I recall and so was end plate. Motor was shot but rest of pump was good.

Here's another tip for setting up the Clutch pedal height. The clutch pedal often sits higher than the brake pedal. I don't like this so what I do is shorten the Clutch Master Cylinder pedal rod so that you have to push the pedal towards the Firewall to slip the Clevis pin in place. This is always safe as the piston in the CMC will always be returned Full Stop against the retaining ring. What causes a problem is if the rod is too long and you have to push the CLEVIS towards the firewall to slip the Clevis pin through the pedal hole. Get the rod just " slightly " too long and the Piston seal lip will cover the exhaust port and you get " Pump Up " and a slipping clutch. Edit: The clutch pedal also has a Pedal Stopper on it to adjust pedal height. However, you must remember if you lengthen the Pedal stop rod ( to lower Clutch pedal height ) you must SHORTEN the Clutch Master Cylinder rod length by the appropriate amount. Otherwise you push the piston into the bore and cover the exhaust port. Again causing " pump Up ". Same applies to Brake pedal and Brake Master Cylinder.

The slave cylinders for the manual adjusting clutches ( with threaded rod, nut and ball nut ) are different from the Auto adjusting ones are different from the from the self adjusting clutches. Install a manual slave or take your self adjusting clutch slave apart and remove the coil spring inside. That will stop the self adjusting feature. You will have to add an external return spring from the clutch fork to the slave cylinder when you use a manual adjust setup. The early manual adjusting fork has a hole for the external spring, and the early slave cylinder has protrusion and a hole for the other end of the spring to slip into. The later style fork an slave cylinder don't have these. You'll have to drill a hole in the fork for the return spring and find somewhere to hook it on at the slave. However, the later self adjusting slave cylinder " should " have worked fine. I believe you are correct in your theory that the Master Cylinder is not returning far enough and this is causing the system to " Pump Up ". This is exactly what will happen if the Master Cylinder ( Clutch or Brake ) does not have enough free play. The FSM has a measurement to setup the MC free play, but here is a quicker and easier way. At the threaded rod connecting the CMC to the pedal loosen the Clevis lock nut and remove the Clevis lock pin. Adjust the Clevis so that you do not have to push the clutch rod in ANY amount to align the clevis hole with the pedal hole. IE: The clevis pin should just slide through with no movement of rod required. Now you are sure that the Master Cylinder is returned all the way. The cylinder has a retaining ring that the piston bottoms against. Adjust your free play at the slave end ( if using manual adjuster ) so that you have 3/16" to 1/4" free play at the fork. This should give you about 1/2" to 3/4" free play at the pedal.

I'll setup the Haltech to run on TPS, Coolant Temp sensor and RPM till 2,000 - 2,200 RPM. Then I'll have it switch over to Closed loop with MAF, MAP and O2 correction. This seems to be the best way to control engines with " Big " cams. Get over the pulsing induction signal at low RPM's. This works well on the Motronic systems on Big cammed VW's and Audi's .

Probably won't be installing till this winter. I'm going to do some before and after Dyno's later this year. We have a local shop that uses a Dyno-Pak sytem, which is a load cell Dyno and is hub mounted. Extremely good repeatability. This engine seems to have some serious grunt as it is. Will be interesting to see the Dyno figures. I'm looking forward to some of the advanced features, including the ability to control idle with a proper PWM stepper motor ICV and the ability to tweak ignition timing maps during warm-up. Nice for lumpy cams. Right now I've got my dual pickup Fed Dizzy tweaked so that I get additional timing during warm-up. It really helps with 280 cam I'm running. This is on top of the +12 degrees BTDC that I run for static timing ( + 33 Total mechanical at 4,000 RPM ). The ability to easily tune the ignition map on the Haltech is a huge bonus. And WB O2, MAF, Knock control, Rev limiter etc is pretty sweet as well. . I'm used to tweaking Motronic systems on turbo VW's and Audi's. The ability to tweak the ignition timing Maps and fuel curves just really improves driveability, MPG and HP.

You've got some galling starting on the L28 Cam lobes. You might be able to micro-polish it out. I'd also check your rocker arms for wear. Once that type of wear starts it escalates rapidly. What are you using for engine oil? You absolutely should not be using an Energy Star or SM/SN rated oils in these cars. They simply do not have enough ZDDP in them these days. Stay away from all 0w-XX oils. These are all Energy Star rated oils with reduced ZDDP for longer Catalytic convertor life. Run a specialty high ZDDP content oils made for older cars or " Hot Rod " cars. Something like Brad Penn, Pennzoil 25w-50 ( very good oil. 1980's level of ZDDP ) or a synthetic like Amsoil 10w-40 ( High Zinc ) or Joe Gibbs/Driven 10w-40 Hot Rod Synthetic. Also, " 4x4 Truck " brands do not have to be Energy Star rated. these are usually in thicker blends and carry more ZDDP.

Factory Tachs can be notoriously inaccurate.. but they do have an adjustment on the back. I would confirm RPM's with a second digital Tach. If they match then you may want to consider adjusting your dash tach. What ignition are you currently running?

And I bet he gets every penny he wants for that car. Excellent read

goodnight... ZZZZzzzz

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Need a Trigger wheel, block off plate and support bearing for dizzy spindle, and coil bracket. Pretty much everything else is there. A local 510 enthusiast is a machinist and has done some fabulous fabrication on his 510. I'll likely be plying him with lots of beer and such to fabricate some of the things like the pulley mount from Trigger wheel, Crank trigger mount and Dizzy bearing and plate. Hoping i can finish it off for around $300. So total price should be around $800. I can do my own install with a bit O' help from friends. One of them is electrical guru and has tuned many NA and Forced Induction cars with Haltech. Mind you, the new stuff is pretty easy to tune. I'm going to be running a MAF system on it with a Map and a Wide Band. You can put in a base map for the L28 and the system will basically self tune. E11 supports Full Sequential injection, Separate coils ( obviously ), Rev limiter, engine fail safe modes and a gazillion other things. Even supports knock sensors and uses the Standard Bosch type. Should be interesting. I just couldn't pass it up at the price....

Thanks a bunch. Gonna be my winter project.

Thanks. Yes, I do need one of those brackets. Is there a link to someone who sells them?

One other thing to check. Datsun used two methods of oiling cams. L24' s and L26's used oil spray bars and un-drilled cam lobes as did early L28's ( up to PD 02/77 ). Later L28's got rid of the spray bar and used a cam shaft with drilled cam lobes for oiling. N47 heads usually do not come with spray bars, so the Cam has to have drilled Cam Lobes or you have to swap out Cam Towers. However, you " may get lucky. It sounds like you may have a reground cam shaft in the L24. Have a look at the Lobes and see if they are drilled for oiling. If they are, you can swap the L24 cam direct into the N47 head without switching towers. No holes in the cam lobes and of course you have to run a Spray bar. BTW, you can run an Oil Spray bar and a drilled cam no problem. Some people say you can't, but It's done all the time on Race cars. All L4 engines have drilled cam lobes only. Race engine builders often add an auxilary spray bar to aid cam oiling. The oil pump has more than enough volume and pressure to handle the extra oiling. Especially if you run the Turbo pump. Picture of L 4 valve cover with externally fed oil spray bar:

Do you have a link to a " How To " on this? Thanks.

All this talk about Vacuum Tube ECU's etc got me searching E-Bay. Looky what I just found... and bought. $500 USD complete:

I've used a 1/2" breaker bar with a 3 foot pipe over the end. Came off in a jiffy. Safer to remove the rad though... Craftsman Tools Lifetime warranty was great for situations like that. No questions asked, but sometimes a raised eyebrow from the salesman as he looked at the snapped off swivel... and then handed you the new Tool.

Got you and kurby confused as to who is running what. If Dave dynoed that engine with the current Dizzy in place then he knows what the curve is.. so that's why he said just set at at 10 BTDC at idle. Hadn't realized you bought a complete dynoed engine with Dizzy and Carbs? in place. If Dave set up the carbs he also would have set the fuel curve. You can richen the mixture a bit at the top end to decrease the chance of detonation. Fuel calibration makes a big difference. For comparison, my L28 with Fuel Injection has an N47 head with flat tops. 280 degree cam, headers, 2.5" exhaust and Big Bore TB. Timing is set to +12 BTDC at idle with 33 degrees total advance. With 91 Octane fuel ( no Ethanol ) I get some pinging between 4,500 rpm and 5,500 rpm. 94 Octane gets rid of " most " of the pinging. I'm pretty sure i have a lean spot in the Fuel curve at those RPM's. Wide Band installation this winter will tell me what's really going on. May have to go stand alone EFI like Megasquirt or Haltech. Or the injectors may just need a good Ultrasonic cleaning. Bottom line is I can't run more than 33 degrees total advance safely, especially if I cruise into the Western USA with their Goat P**S fuel...

Stick it in 4th gear and set the hand-brake hard. No need to remove the Valve cover. IMHO, better than holding cam gear as load is going direct through the crank. Impact gun should buzz that puppy off no problem. I like using a weighted Hard Plastic mallet. If pulley is stubborn, go to Lordco or your favorite Auto supplier and get some " Freeze Spray ". Used for shrinking rusted bolts etc. Spray the center of the crank with the stuff, crank shrinks and off pops the Pulley. Safer and faster than heating the pulley. Loctite product. Freezes to -39F http://www.henkelna.com/industrial/product-search-1554.htm?nodeid=8797940809729 CRC product. Freezes to -60F: http://crc-canada.ca/industrial/products/specialty/freeze-spray-284-grams.html

I'm very surprised he said that. You ALWAYS check total mechanical advance on any High performance engine. How does Dave know that someone hasn't modified the advance plates in your distributor. I think he's taking the position that 10 degrees BTDC is a safe setting. But your scenario indicates why it is not wise to assume. 30 degrees additional advance in the distributor is a LOT!! Normal values are more around 17 to 20 degrees. 260Z distributors have the maximum amount of mechanical advance at 23 degrees. So it sounds like someone has modified that distributor in some point in it's life. Probably lengthened the slots. I don't know what you use for fuel... but 40 degrees Total mechanical advance is pushing it even with 94 Octane fuel and a higher compression ratios. If you're using 91 Octane and anything over 9.5 - 1 CR...I'd personally back the Total timing down a bit. That means pulling the Dizzy apart and changing plates or welding up the slots in the plates. You could temporarily set static timing to 5 degrees BTDC and that help.. but it's not the ideal combo. Edit: Orangetang. I just noticed you live in Alberta. You using Petro Canada 94 Plus fuel? If so that may explain why you can get away with 40 degrees total timing. That's one of the top fuels in North America. Special formulation. Even better than Chevron 94. On average Canadian fuel is much better than USA fuels. Our fuels factor in a higher percentage of RON vs MON. Higher RON values decrease detonation. We always have to detune our High Performnace cars a bit when traveling from BC to the USA. Gas quality Octane to Octane just isn't as good in the USA. I usually have to knock about 2-4 degrees out of my ideal setup when travelling to the USA.

I use the same method as Blue mentioned. SOP is to make all adjustments with a dial back timing light at TDC. Makes things a bit less complicated and less chance for errors. " What you see is what you get ". Nothing worse than setting Total timing and then detonating the engine to death because you forgot to add that " extra " 10 degrees because you use the +10 BTDC mark instead of the +0 BTDC mark. Vacuum advance is always disconnected when setting timing. . Total mechanical advance in the engine is a combination of Static advance ( idle advance ) plus mechanical advance that the distributor adds when RPM increases. Example values are 10 degrees BTDC Static + 20 degrees in distributor = 30 degrees BTDC. Different plates and springs yield different values. You often have to shorten or lengthen the slots in the distributor plates to get the exact curve that you like. And every engine build is unique. But always best to error on the side of too little Total timing advance than too much. The former will cost you a bit of power... the latter can destroy engines.

Your possibly confusing idle or static advance ( 10 degrees BTDC ) with Total mechanical advance? Total mechanical advance is a combination of static advance and the mechanical advance in the distributor. So 33 degrees at 5,5500 is 10 degrees static + 23 degrees mechanical in the distributor = 333 degrees BTDC TOTAL advance at 5,500 RPM. The amount the distributor adds as RPM rises varies between Distributor models and can also be modified. That why you have to check both figures.

That's interesting about the Oil slinger. Honsowetz gives no reason why. The only thing I can think of is that in the paragraph before, he mentions installing the " Bronze " oil pump/distributor drive gear. I wonder if the Bronze gears are slightly longer and do not use the slinger, Going to have to check into that.

When I was a kid, my Dad used to have an old Marconi console radio. Had all kinds of weird bands including Short Wave. It had what was called a " Magic Eye " for tuning in stations. It was an Evil looking thing It reminded me of the Martian creatures from HG Wells " War of the Worlds". That radio terrified me... Dad made it worse by off tuning SW stations and the Radio would make all sorts of strange " Outer Limits " sounds. Dad said he was talking to the " Martians ". I eventually gave the radio to a friend of mine. It was in semi working condition. Needed a few Vacuum tubes and a couple of knobs. Wonder what a Vintage Marconi radio is worth these days..... Edit: Crikey...looks like he had a 1938 Marconi Model 138 http://radiosfelix.weebly.com/console-radios---consoles.html Sorry to get off topic. Back to your normal Radio station or Bat Channel...

Front seal is pretty easy to replace. Installs from the front so you don't have to pull the Timing cover. Pull the Rad and Fan. Remove pulley bolt and remove dampner/pulley assembly/ Examine sealing surface of dampner for any nicks or grooves. If you find a groove worn in surface, you can get a repair sleeve that presses over the damaged area. I think they're called a " Speedy Sleeve ". Common universal repair part. Removing old seal is a bit of a PITA. I normally just use a medium flat blade screwdriver and collapse the outer wall by using a hammer and the screwdriver. Once you collapse the outer wall a bit, it's easy to pry the seal out with a small screwdriver or curved pick. You can also screw two or three wood screws into the old seal ( #8 ). Then clamp some Vice grips onto the wood screws and yank... alternating between screws. Other ways are to use a small " Paint Can Lid " removing tool and use that to hook under the seal and pry out. There are also purpose built seal removers that you can buy from Tool supply stores... but I've never had to use those. Do you know if the " oil slinger " is installed behind the timing cover? That helps shield seal from excessive oil splash.