Chickenman

I now have a Crane HI-6S MultiSpark inductive box combined with the MSD Blaster 2 coil. Spark output is much better. However, I will be switching the MSD Blaster coil to a Crane LX91 E-core. That is the recommended coil for the Crane HI-6S and is a much better match spec wise. Spark output with the LX91 coil should be much higher. than with the MSD coil I also have a Crane Fireball CDI box with a PS92 Race coil. That will REALLY fry your wienies in a hurry. It's over kill on my 10.3 CR NA engine. The HI-6s inductive box is more that strong enough. I may sell the CDI setup to one of my Turbo buddies. It would be perfect for a High Boost Turbo application.

The plug you want is NGK BPR6ES. Do NOT get BPR6ES-11 . The 11 actually stand for 1.1mm , which is a pre-gap of .041". In NGK numbering, no suffice on the end ( Like 11 ) designates a standard gap of .031". The 1.1 mm plugs should not be gapped down to .030". It puts a weird angle of the side electrode and causes faster wear on the side electrode tip. You always want resistor plugs on any Modern car. Less EMI and they will foul less than non-resistor plugs. Lastly, the MSD Blaster 2 coil is not a great choice for a non-CDI ignition. Without getting too technical, it just isn't a good match in electrical specifications to your Unilite or any early Generation electronic ignition boxs. It is designed to be used with CDI boxes or high powered Modern Inductive boxes. Inductive ignitions are very sensitive to the coil used. They require a higher Primary resistance than a CDI coil and a different turns ratio. I had an MSD Blaster 2 coil on my 1976 280Z for a while. And the stock Nissan 280Z coil actually put out a better spark. Why? Because it was a better match to the factory ignition box.

MIke W. With inductive electronic ignitions, the ignition Module has a HUGE influence on how strong the spark energy is. Early trignition boxes like the 1975 and 1976 models flowed very little current. In the order of 2 Amps maximum. That's no better than a stock points system. Spark plug gap on the 1975 and 1976 models is factory recommended .030" to .032". In 1977 and 1978 models, the Trignition box was updated and is much more powerful. With those model years the recommended gap is .042" The Unilite is an early generation model and also does not have much Spark energy. So you need to run a smaller gap. Add in an exteranl MSD or other CDI box, and the picture is entirely different.

The domestic scene was flooded with this problem in the mid-2000's. SBC's and BBC's were particularly prone to the Cam eating issue. That is because they have a smaller lifter diameter than Ford's and Dodge engines. It affected Muscle Cars and Hot Rods with GM motors the worst In Nascar racing, the Dodge engines had a real advantage when they first started using restrictor plate engines in the 80's. Dodge had the largest diameter lifters of the three engine Manufacturers, and it was a huge advantage for Dodge for a while. Ford had the second largests lifter and GM was just screwed ( Nascar engines wee production based and based on stock dimensions ) Restrictor plate engines required Camshaft profiles that had really fast acceleration ramps to maximise the Lift area under the valve. GM was at a disadvantage because of their smaller lifter diameter. It increased side loadings on the Lifter and overall pressure on the Cam lobe. There were a few years in the early to mid 90's when GM SB2 engines were popping right left and center because of the Lifter design, and even the best Racing oils ( Full synthetic ) at that time couldn't keep up with the massive Valve accelerations they were using. Of course Nascar is very restrictive, so GM was stuck ( for a few years ) with their bad design. It was around this time that Joe Gibbs Racing started developing their own purpose built oils for the Nascar GM engines. Valvetrain failures decreased on the JGR engines and they dominated for a while. In later years GM came out with some re-designed engines. In 2007 they introduced the RO7. Nascar rules had relaxed a bit bye then and they were allowed to build essentially " Purpose built Race engines" . The Ro7 was a major redesign of the original SBC, which was still based on the original 1955 dimensions. All that got re-designed with the RO7. One thing they did immediately was address limitations in the Valve train and larger diameter lifters were incorporated. Some interesting reading on the RO7. http://www.machinedesign.com/automotive/chevy-s-r07-racing-engine-chip-old-small-block BTW... when Toyota was allowed to build a V8 for Nascar ( they didn't have a suitable production V8 ) they took full advantage and designed a clean sheet design that had GM and Ford sh**ting bricks. Toyota was so far ahead in design, that GM figured it would take them 5 years of work just to catch up. The engine block cooling passages used a foundry design that GM couldn't hope to replicate without a complete re-design of their foundries. They just didn't have the technology Some of the Industrial espionage going on behind closed doors is very interesting. Such as when JGR suddenly switched to Toyota engines in 2007, after being a long time GM supported Team. GM was pissed. But apparently JGR had seen the design specs of the new GM RO7 and the new Toyota engines and realised that GM was fracked big time. And about a year later... a Toyota Nascar engine mysteriously went missing while being transported back to TRD ( Toyota Racing Development ) . It's all rather Hush Hush... but apparently said Toyota engine was " accidentally " delivered to a GM Lab.... ( Not kidding its' all out in the open now.... but a huge scandal at the time ). But I digress... because it's 2:30 AM and I tend to Ramble on when I suffer from insomnia....

Sulphur would probably eat the soft metals in the rod and main bearings. But pretty sure that Diff oil has a pretty high level of Phosphates in it as well. Phosphates are typically found in high pressure lubricants. The Ford Gl-5 stuff stinks of Sulphur. But it's a good diff lube.

I recently switched to Motul 8100 Excess 10w-40 on my Audi Turbo. Engine has 256,000 KM ( on original Turbo, block and head ) ,. It's been boostin 15 to 20 psi since the 125,000 KM mark. It was starting to use a little oil with the Rotella T6 5w-40, so I switched to a 10w-40. The Motul is definitely on the thicker end range of a 10w-40, for cold pour point. I'll have to see if oil consumption decreases with the thicker blend oil.

Excellent technical article from Joe Gibbs oil that explains the whole ZDDP controversy, Modern oils vs Older oils and choices of oils for different engines. RacingOil101.pdf

Usually Imports have much lighter Valve train components than domestic cars. And less lift. The new oils are adequate ( barely ) on stock Valve Trains. They are inadequate with higher pressure Valve Trains. Domestics are effected more than Imports. Heavier components, higher valve lift and stronger valve springs. A modern 4 valve Import engine has very little little valve lift compared to a Domestic 2 valve engine. L-series aren't immune to the issue. Especially if you raise spring pressure or even alter the Cam profile with stock springs. More aggressive acceleration ramps also expose the weakness of low ZDDP oils. We are fortunate that Datsun had REALLY good metallurgy back when they built this Valvetrain. But out engines are not immune. Lots of horror stories of flattened cam lobes on L-4's and L-6's, primarily with stronger valve springs, higher lift and duration cams and Energy Star oils. OEM Nissan cams affected as well. Not just the POS CWC cores. Note: Stock engines will probably be just be fine on these new oils. In fact the oil manufactures have pointed this out in their test Data. The new oils will work fine on Modern Flat Tappet, Bucket or Finger follower valve trains. It's what they DON't tell you that is important. These tests are done ONLy on stock engines. And only on specific types of engines. Modified HP engines or Vintage engines are not their concern at all. And they certainly don't test high performance engines such as the old BBC 427's, Boss 302's, or any 70's Muscle car engines. And modified engines or engines used for Track Days? You're living on borrowed time with modern SM/SN Energy Star motor oils with reduced ZDDP. Turbos' also pound the snot out of oil. High Temperature Shear Protection ( HTSP ) is something that you have to be very aware of in Turbo engines. Shell Rotella T6 ( Full synthetic ) excels in that area, which is why it's very popular with the Turbo enthusiasts and Bike enthusiasts. It's classified as an Heavy Duty Engine Oil ( HDEO ) primarily for use in Diesel engines, but acceptable for use in older vehicles ( Pre-2006 because of the EPA regulations ) Unfortunately the Rotella T6 Full Synthetic comes in limited weights. ( At least in Canada ) . The 5w-40 is a bit too thin for the older engines like an L-series, particularly as they age. and the bearing clearances open up. ( It's the cold pour point, the " 5w " that is the issue ) . A good Ester 10w-40 with higher levels of ZDDP is ideal for our motors. Both Turbo and non-Turbo. Depending on ambient temps of course. Most of us don't drive our Z cars in the dead of winter. Motul, Amsoil, Redline, Joe Gibbs racing all make excellent full Ester 10w-40 Synthetic oils. The Joe Gibbs ( Driven ) oils are a new mPAO formula which is superior to PAO synthetics.

The ZDDP kills Catalytic converters is just another example of " Internet misinformation " or " Partial information ". Catalytic converters are a consumable product. Just like Brake pads or Clutches. Thye have a finite Lifespan. Alway have... alway will have. ZDDP does not " Kill " Catalytic converters. Cars have had Catalytic converters since the Mid 1970's and the oils back then had a hell of a lot more ZDDP in them back then. They lasted fine back then and still do. The only reason for the reduction in ZDDP in Motor oils is because the EPA upped the testing standard for Catalytics from 100,000 miles to 150,000 miles in the mid 2000's. Now one of the main materials of a Catalytic converter is Platinum. Platinum is freakin' expensive. Almost equal to the cost of Gold per once. Now ZDDP does slowly, very slowly degrade the performance of the Platinum Catalyst. But it takes a super long time and Manufacturers used just enough Platinum to last 100,000 miles and still pass the EPA test. But when the EPA decided to raise the test standards to 150,000 miles . No problem, the engineers could meet that standard. They just had to use more Platinum in the Honeycomb Matrix. So this was just an engineering problem.... and then the " Bean Counters " got involve. They didn't want to fork out more money for added Platinum. And studies had shown that if you reduced the amount of ZDDP in the oils, then you could meet the new tougher EPA test with the same Catalytic converters and amounts of Platinum in them. Note: ZDDP's main function is to reduce metal to metal contact in extreme load situations. It is a VERY effective extreme pressure agent. The interface between a flat tappet lifter and camsahft, or sliding finger follower style Valvetrain is the highest load pressure point in an engine. Since all of the BIg 3 manufactures had been using Roller Lifter or Roller follower Valve Trains since the late 80's to early 90's, this sounded like a great idea to the Bean Counters. Make an oil with less ZDDP and problem solved. The oil makers were on board with this as they could save a couple of pennies in additive amounts of ZDDP in each bottle of oil. Only 1 company objected. GM. They did not agree with the amount of ZDDP reduction that the oil companies and EPA had proposed. They were worried about, older engines... that still used Flat Tappet Cams. Like those in GM SBC.BBC,, and Pontiac and Buick engines still being used buy Vintage car owners, hot rodders and Racers. And also in older trucks, generators and agriculture for pumping stations etc They actually proposed a les strict Oil standard in ZDDP reduction , that would be compatible with older flat tappet Cams ( and finger followers ) and could meet the the new 150,000 mile Catalytic tests.... with only a slight increase in Platinum amount required, compared to the Current SG/SH oils. But this proposal was shot down by the EPA and other manufacturers. Vintage cars, old vehicles and Lord forbid " Racers ???? F**k them. Let them all buy new Jelly Bean cars. They're all a bunch of degenerate heathens. And this in the mid-2000's, you started seeing the " Great Camshaft Meltdown " with horror stories of Hot Rods and High Performance engines grinding their Camshafts into mush. Problem was exacerbated with High Lift cams and stiffer Valve springs. But fear not. The Oil companies came back with a solution. They would introduce new " Specialty Oils " , that did not have to the new Energy Star ( SM/SN API rating ) . So they basically introduced an old formula oil, then slapped some fancy stickers on it and called it " Hot Rod " oils. And of course they charged double the money, because this was " Special Oil "...... and they had the Hot Rodders, Muscle Car and Vintage enthusiasts by the balls. PT Barnum would have been proud... So in short... if you have a pre 2006 car, older higher Zinc oils won't " Kill " your Catalytic converter. At least not very quickly. If you have a later model car and are concerned about maintaining the Emissions warranty for 150,000 miles ... then you may want to use a new Energy Star rated SM/SN oil. Of course if you do ANY modifications to the valve train. All bets are off. Oh, and if you have a new car with Direct Fuel Injection? Good Luck. Better find out how the High Pressure Injection Pump ( Up to 1,660 PSI ) is made. The bosch systems ( Audi/VW. BMW, Mercedes Porsche and others ) use a Bucket lifter in the High Pressure pump. Guess what... they are wearing out in as little as 20,000 miles. Even with numerous recalls on DI Injection pumps and " Diamond Like Coatings " being spayed on the buckets,. All because the new oils are SH*TE. It's a HUGE industry problem. Especially in Europe on the Autobahns. Higher speeds, higher engine temps, oil thins out.... buh bye $2,000 to $3,000 dollar injection pump. Some of the Japanese manufactures were smarter. They used Roller Tipped actuators to operate the High Pressure pump. No issues with reduced ZDDP. FWIW. BTW, all of this information is available in SAE White Papers and Technical articles like Engine Tech and Race Car engineering. Also covered on dedicated sites such as " Bob Is The Oil Guy ", Despite the rather strange name, BITOG is one of THE best sites for accurate lubrication information. Where actual Chemical, Mechanical and Petroleum engineers contribute regularly. an Laboratory Testing results are abundant. Well worth a visit and a long read. https://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php?ubb=cfrm

540rat?? .... bwaaa Haaa Haaaa. Good one.

Our MCI Tour Buses had a 100 DB " Sonalert " for low air pressure. That will get your attention fast. Often used on Race cars. Mallory's " Specialty Sounds : " Piezo series has 15 various sounds, so you can have individual alarms for level of severity or function. All the way from Bird Chirps and Warbles to Police Sirens. http://www.mallory-sonalert.com/AVBySeries.aspx

One of the nice features on my Audi is a Beeper that goes off for 5 seconds if any dash warnings come on. Like Low fuel, Temperature etc. It's really handy, especially if it's a brights unny day and you have sun glasses on. You may not notice the dash light, but the beeper draws attention to the problem.

Now this is a warning light:

^ That's some good info. Thanks for sharing.

You may want to read this article from Daniel Stern lighting on why to use relays: http://www.danielsternlighting.com/tech/relays/relays.html

As ZH mentioned, old sealed beams get weak with age. In addition to the above Mods, ditch the OEM sealed beams and get a modern set of High Output H6024 Halogen Headlights. Sylvania and Wagner make Halogen replacements. You can order these from any Napa, AutoZone etc. Better yet, for a long term solution, Get in touch with Daniel Stern Lighting Consultants and order some Cibie 7" headlights with Marva bulbs. Cibie is still one of the top headlight manufacturers in the world. https://www.danielsternlighting.com/ https://www.danielsternlighting.com/products/products.html Regarding the alternator, I'd skip the 60 amp Internal regulator alternator and go straight to an 80 Amp 300ZX alternator . These come with a single pulley and will bolt on to the stock mounts. Of course you will have to remove the external Voltage Regulator and perform the appropriate wiring mods. The reason I recommend the later style 80 amp models is because they a a modern " small frame " alternator. Usually Mitsubishi. These have a more modern design than the old " Large frame " Hitachi style and the idle amperage output is much higher. on my 280Z I can idle with my headlights, wipers , stereo and AC on at the same time... and it still puts out 14 volts. Makes a HUGE difference in lighting. Rocka Auto carries various brands. I've had good luck with AC Delco reman alternators. I believe they have a 3 to 5 year warranty With Cibie halogen lights, 80 amp 300ZX Alternator, Dave Irwin Parking light mod, and connections all cleaned with De-Oxit, I now have amazing headlights that rival modern LED lights . And the Cibies look period correct with nice Convex lens that match the sexy curves of the Z car. I can't stand some of those new LED 7" round retrofit lights. They look like some bug eyed insect. Cibie 7" E-code:

Getting serious again. With a new Fiche and a proper digital scanner, you'd probably get much better resolution than the POS back projector systems we had back in the 70's and 80's. Focus was often wonky on those. Got to be even worse when the Fiche got all scratched and faded with age. With NOS fiche it should be possible to get better resolution than the native viewer. Edit: You can also sharpen and digitally enhance the scans, which should improve quality greatly.

You will never get better pictures. That's why every Part person who ever worked with Microfiches is doomed to look like Bubbles from Trailer Park Boys.....

I wonder what my therapist would say about this. a former Nissan Partsman ( 17+ years ) I often have Dreams ( Nightmares ) involving microfiche. Often involving being very busy and can't find the right Microfiche, having the Microfiche but can't find the section I'm looking for or not being able to read the Microfiche because it's all scratched and faded. Juts had another weird one last nite. What does it all mean Doc

Could be sticking. Varnish and deposits can build up on the valve actuation shaft. Try soaking the bottom part of the EGR valve in Carb Cleaner overnight. Then spray with PB Blaster or Move-It. A stuck or sticking EGR Valve can cause erratic idle and low speed running.

I've called my sources at a West Coast Canadian dealership. We ( Canadian Dealerships ) can still order NOA parts direct from Japan. Even though part may be listed as NLA, Japan often has the " dusty " shelves where NOS parts are stored. They do not show up on a standard Dealer search. Apparently USA Dealers can't ( or won't ) order NOA parts from Japan, but Canada can. That's the rumour.... My parts manger friend is going to E-Mail Japan tomorrow and get back to me. I gave him 22301-P7901 as a part number,. This number will work on both 280Z and 280ZX distributors or any other Early 80's L-series distributor. It is fully adjustable for both spring pressure and stroke as per Jason Grey's distributor page. Cost is shown as $58.00 CDN retail. He is also going to search for alternate part numbers for a 1983 S130. But 22301-P7901 works for just about every 280Z and ZX dizzy. It will probably take a day or two to get an answer from Japan...... I used to have Nissan Fast and E-Fast on my computer, but recently uninstalled them as they were an outdated and clunky interface. Also, supercession lists were not updated. It's easier for me to pick up the phone and call my Local Nissan Parts Guru. They're all getting old an crotchety though... ( Kinda like me.. )

Good aftermarket Fuel Pressure Regulators have a damper system integrated. Aeromotive and Fuel Tech do.

I think it may be easier to adapt a manual valve than replace the Automatic one. Pretty sure there is a write up somewhere on Hybrid-Z about that. The copper capillary Tube? 10 seconds with a pair of side cutters and it's Gonzo!!

Don't they smell just lovely when they're fried? LOL.

Note that in section 4 they discuss the problems of running a PCV Valve on Turbo engines. This only applies to retrofitted Turbo engines. On OEM designed Turbo CCV systems , the Vent routing incorporates one way check valves and specially designed PCV valve to eliminate the problem of pressurizing the crankcase through the CCV system when under boost. Nissan has done this on the Factory L280 Turbo by using a specific PCV valve for the Turbo motors. This has a silicone sealing lip inside the valve that allows no reverse flow when under boost. This is important to remember if you have an L28 Turbo. ALWAYS buy the Nissan OEM PCV valve for the Turbo models from a Nissan dealership. Aftermarket valves are often the same part for NA and Turbo models and may not have the silicone sealing ring. FYI, VW/Audi 1.8T engines are always had an oil sludging problem due to a weak PCV system. Quite a few Big Turbo VW/Audi 1.8/2.0 Turbo engine builds are now switching to a design using the the Nissan Turbo PCV valves. The stock VW/Audi valves is made of plastic and is a POS. The all metal Nissan Turbo PCV valve flows more than the VAG valves, creating more negative pressure in the Cranckcase and and it reverse seals under Boost better than the VW/Audi PCV valves. Score one for Nissan!!!