Chickenman

Dave there is also an adjustable Air Bypass on the AFM of 75 and 76 models. May be hidden by a small plug. Lower right corner of the AFM. You can adjust your idle ADR with this. Makes quite a difference. I believe that the FSM says there is no adjustment. for Idle mixture. But that's not true. It's plugged only for Emissions purposes.

How is snapping TC tension rods a non-issue with Poly? Plot the curve of the Lower control arm with a suspension program you'll see why Poly has a problem. The lower control arm does not travel straight up and down. It follows an Arc. That cause bind with Poly bushings. Rubber and Monoballs do not. Polly also has issues with Cold flow and "Stiction" . Poly is not a good material for rotating assembles. Never has been and never will be. Delrin liners or Teflon liners are far superior, but they can only be used in suspension arms that travel in a straight line, such as a double A-Arm setup. With suspension arms that travel in an arc you should be using Monoballs or rubber. You may not " feel " or " recognise" the bind, but it's there and is detrimental to handling. Sources. Herb Adams, Paul Van Valkenburgh, Fred Puhn and a host of other Chassis engineers.

Finally Starting to reduce the parts pile in the Bedroom. TT3 DIY coil-overs with 250lb Eibachs and Yellow Koni Sport MR2 dampers. Plus some other bits.

You can a have a perfectly balanced " square tire" . It won't roll very smoothly though. Old tires that are sitting flat are a prime candidate for hidden internal damage. If they've been sitting flat for any appreciable length of time..... get new tires as others have mentioned. Go through the whole suspension ( and brakes ) top to bottom. Plan on replacing ALL of the suspension bushings if they are still original. Beware of the Poly kits. They can cause more harm than good, particularly in the Tension Rods and Front lower control arms.

Valve train certainly is interesting. Those look like early Nissan Comp Aluminium spring retainers. They came in different colors to indicate what lash size they supported. I wouldn't throw the cam away. May just need a slight touch up and a re-parkerizing...... Any markings on the back of the Cam?

It's all good Steve, I'm getting too fat already

An H Pipe is not a resonator. I don't know the math... all I know is that it cuts down the noise. Vizard covers it in some of his books. Edit: Personal experience from running lots of V8's as well. But if you already have a crossover in there it may already be reducing noise. Depends where the cross over is placed. By " crossover " are you referring to an H Pipe or X Pipe?

You could also add an H pipe between your Twice pipes. That will cut down on resonance as well. Done on V8 systems and really helps. H pipes do have an ideal location for placement. You want it at a high velocity area, before it starts losing all of it's energy. Use some cheap, non-heat resistant Black paint and paint a Stripe on the bottom of the exhaust pipes. Now go make some WOT runs on the Freeway. The paint will burn off in the high velocity areas . Put your H pipe or Helmoltz resonator in that area.

Twice pipes can be harder to control noise with than a single... Round resonators really don't cut back noise or drone much. Too small of and over all diameter. You need an oval resonator to allow the gases more room to expand and dissipate their energy. Magna Flow does make some Dual I/ Dual out Oval Mufflers. What size are your twice pipes?

I'm running a 2.5" system with an oval Magnaflow Muffler ( #11246 ) for a resonator and some sort of un known " Turbo " Muffler at the back. No drone what so ever. Reasonable noise levels, but a nice 6 cylinder wail when you get on it. The Magna Flow oval muffler as a resonator really cut the drone and over all noise down. Straight through so really no restriction. https://www.magnaflow.com/products?partNumber=11246 Hmmm... you need to change your signature

If you're using spiral core wires, make sure you use resistor plugs on a street car. Non-resistor plugs are designed for carbon core wires with a much higher resistance than modern spiral core wires. Resistor plugs on an Inductive ignition allow the flash over voltage to reach a higher peak than non-resistor plugs. Helps to keep the plugs from fouling and suppresses EMI ( very important with EFI systems ). Most electronic systems specify resistor plugs, including the Matchbox. Only reason some of the early 260 and 280 electronic ignitions used non-resistor plugs was because of the weak output of the 1st generation Trignition units. The E12-80 matchbox of course is a much stronger ignition system than the early points or Trignition.

That is a new one. Any signs of retainer to seal contact?

Lookin' good!!

Interesting little story; Had a friend whose 280Z was running intermittently and badly. She had just paid a local Shop big $$ to go over the complete EFI system. They had replaced the ECU and supposedly, " cleaned " every single electrical terminal on the engine harness. There It was. Marked right on the Work Shop order. " Clean and service electrical connectors - $250 labour " Indeed, I did find that every single connection was packed with brand new Dielectric grease.. Unfortunately they had not bothered to scrape off the old corrosion first!!! I couldn't believe, it but I found several connections with obvious green scale visible through the Dielectric grease. Including the CTS and AFM connections. Several of the injector terminals still had obvious corrosion visible if you looked closely as well. Idiots!!. I re-serviced her car in the local Canadian Tire ( CDN GI Joes ) parking lot. Two cans of Brake Clean ( to remove superfluous Dielectric grease ), Much scraping with a Jewelers screwdriver, a spray treatment of De-Oxit on every single engine harness terminal, some fresh dielectric grease.... and a free lunch from a very happy Lady whose car now purred like a kitten and has not had a single " hiccup " in over a year. It's the details that are important....

Haven't read the whole thread, so this may have been covered already. But one of the essential things to do is get a can of GOOD electrical contact spray such as De-Oxit or Weicon and spray every single electrical connection. De-Oxit and Weicon will literally clean mildly corroded contacts to as New condition with one or two applications. Heavy corrosion such as hard scale, may have to be scraped off with a Jewelers screwdriver or dental pick. If you have a electrical connection that alter how the car runs when you " wiggle " it you either have corrosion on the terminals ( doesn't take much ), a broken wire in the terminal or some other form of bad connection. 9 times out of 10 with these Vintage cars it is corrosion. They didn't use WeatherPack seals back then like Modern cars do. The TPS, all the coolant sensors on the Thermostat housing , AFM connector, all the Fuel injector terminals and ECU connectors should all be examined with a Magnifying glass and meticulously cleaned. Bad terminals should be replaced. Check all the ground wires for corrosion, frayed wires or loose connections. Take the ground wires off and sand the contact area beneath to bare metal Bad grounds will overheat components and cause them to fail. This is a big RED flag. The Trignition box should NOT be getting that hot. Could very well have been a bad ground causing it to over-heat. Now you replaced the Trignition Box with the Crane unit. The Crane Unit has it's own separate ground. So you may think that a poor ground issue to the original Trignition box is now redundant. Not so fast. Ground circuits in engine harness's are often shared with several different components. I'd have to look at the wiring diagram, but it wouldn't surprise me if the ECU, Trignition, AFM and some other sensor share a common ground. In fact, that is a SOP to ground all the sensors through the ECU through and to a common ground point to reduce voltage offsets. Making sure that all grounds are 100% should be done to eliminate any variables.

Guys, don't get in a big sweat about this. Life is too short.... I recall Perlux as being British from way back in the mid 70's. Mainly because they kept popping up on MGB's racing at out local track WestWood. Per Lux was sold by a British Vendor in Vancouver at the time ( Abbington Motors ) who " said " they were from great Britain. Too long ago and too faded a memory to bother persuing. So as one Commenwelth Nation to another, if I have slighted our UK brethren I hereby humbly apologize. Besides..... you have Lucas and all that entails... including Warm Beer

Back in 1962 when they started out .... The original designs and Patents was made way back in the 70's . They were a very popular conversion for British cars distributors back in the day. Corporate Headquarters really means nothing in this day and age of Global Economies. . Multiple company buyouts over the years/decades.. EdIt. Scan of just one of the Patents... in 1975

Seriously? They have to use Tape to help hold the freakin magnets in place?? Typical fine British engineering. Just shaking my head in disbelief...

Do you have an AFR gauge. If not may be time to consider one. Helps with the really fine tuning. 35 MPG is impressive. If you can get it to idle at near Stoich you are doing well. Most cars other than modern EFI will prefer slightly richer than Stoich at idle. Note: Running those Lean of mixtures at cruise requires a good Ignition system and a wider plug gap .042" to .045" The match box dizzy can handle it ans well as An MSD or Crane CDI bos. Pertronix.... uhmmm not so much. Not enough current capability IMHO.

The Red springs that are stiffer than stock are another variable thrown into the mix. You've reduced the diameter of the needles at Cruise and Top end which would would richen the mixture slightly. But then you've increased the spring tension which should Lean out the whole curve.. That seems counter intuitive. Edit: The stiffer Red springs are also going to cause a leaner transition when accelerating off idle. This can cause a Lean stumble. IMHO, you would have been better off working with the needles only with just some profiling. Playing with spring Tension is a pretty large correction factor and may have complicated matters.

Have a good look at Daniel Stern's lighting page. Some excellent Technical articles. Particularly the page on " the myth of " Blue lights ", Daniel is a distributer for Cibie lights. Still the gold standard for H4 headlamps. I have Cibie E-Codes in my 76 and they are freakin' awesome. The 280Z's have upgraded wiring and I believe relays for the Headlights, so you don't need the Relay kits like on the 240Z. Just clean all the connections with De-Oxit or Weicon Electrical cleaner. That makes an amazing difference. Upgrade to a 70 or 80 amp Internal Reg alternator if you haven't already done that. http://www.danielsternlighting.com/ Bulb Tech Articles Edit: The Cibies also have the Classic curved lens. Looks much better than some of the flat style. Compliments the curves of the car.

My question would have to be. Why are you thinking of doing this? The factory system works very well. Has no real issues. What do you hope to gain? Other than satisfying your curiosity..... " If it ain'T broke... " Now if it was a VW/Audi that has a very poor PCV system, and has a bad " sludging " problem because of it, I could see why.. But the Nissan system is simple and works very well.

The nut coming loose on the steering shaft is actually pretty common. Especially with aftermarket steering wheels and soft aluminium hubs. I secure the center Nut with Stud Lock and make sure there is a hardened washer under the nut.

Pioneer is always good. I've used Sony GT series in my Audi and that was also very good. Sony finally bit the dust after about 10 years. I've never had a Pioneer fail.....ever. Either in Car Audio or Home Audio.Visual. Still have my Pioneer PL-200 Turntable from the early 80's. Works perfect still. The Dot Matrix screen is usually adjustable in the Setup Menu for brightness. I'm suspecting that what ever you were looking at was setup to " Dim or Night". Mots of the Dost Matrix screens are very bright when set to Day or Full. At least the Pioneer's and Sony's that I have used are. Stay away from off brands like BOSS.

Not sure how I feel about the rear location for a breather vent. The stock location has a VERY effective baffle plate underneath the top breather vent. A heck of a lot of oil spray gets flung about from the Camshaft under there.